Crochet Lamb Lovey Pattern - Easy Baby Shower Gift Idea

By Jan Bay

This crochet lamb lovey pattern features a sleepy ivory lamb with a textured woolly head, soft gray ears, two little arms with matching gray hooves, and a scalloped blanket. It makes a sweet handmade baby shower gift or nursery keepsake for supervised cuddle time.

Photo note: The yarn bow shown around the lamb's neck is for photography styling only and is not included in the pattern. For a baby lovey, leave the bow off. Loose yarn loops and dangling ends can pose an entanglement hazard.

See the baby yarn that gives this lamb lovey its cozy finish →

The correct yarn choice is what gives this lovey its soft, gift-ready finish.

See what using a softer yarn changes →

Pattern notes: The textured blanket is worked in joined rounds without turning. The lamb head, muzzle, oval ears, and arms are worked in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each continuous round and move it up as you work. Use a smaller hook for the stuffed pieces if needed to prevent stuffing gaps.

Beginning chains: The beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc in each blanket round. A beginning ch 1 used for single crochet does not count as a stitch.

Abbreviations: ch (chain), ch-sp (chain space), sc (single crochet), dc (double crochet), sl st (slip stitch), st or sts (stitch or stitches), inc (work 2 sc in the same stitch), dec (single crochet decrease)

Decrease method: For a less visible decrease, insert the hook through the front loop of each of the next two stitches, yarn over and draw through both front loops, then yarn over and draw through the two loops remaining on the hook.

Design note: The lamb head is kept small in proportion to the blanket so the finished lovey remains balanced and does not pull heavily on the center of the square.

Face detail: All facial features are embroidered with yarn or embroidery floss. Do not use plastic eyes, buttons, beads, bells, loose bows, or other removable decorations.

About this crochet lamb lovey pattern

This crochet lamb lovey pattern combines a dense textured ivory blanket with a gray scalloped border, a lamb head with a textured wool crown, wide gray ears, and two ivory arms with gray hooves. The finished project is intended for supervised awake-time use and should never be placed in an infant sleep space.

The solid square is worked in alternating smooth and textured rounds until it reaches the measured size. The gray scalloped border is added afterward. Choose smooth category 4 yarn and check your gauge to target a finished blanket approximately 13–15 inches across.

The head is attached through an open 12-stitch base instead of being closed into a narrow point. This creates a wider sewing area and distributes the strain around the center of the blanket.

The sleepy embroidered eyes give this lamb its sweet expression, but I think the gray details make the design. The wide ears, little gray hooves, and scalloped edging belong together. Leave those details off and you have made a different lamb, not the one pictured here.

If you'd like a smaller lamb project to go with this lovey, my free crochet lamb applique pattern features bobble-stitch wool, embroidered sleepy eyes and tiny hooves. It's a sweet little accent for a handmade baby bib, blanket or nursery project.

For cleaner nursery aesthetics and simpler handmade baby gifts, this minimalist crochet lovey pattern uses a more understated style that works especially well in modern nursery themes and neutral baby gift baskets.

Materials + sizing notes

• Ivory category 4 smooth baby yarn for the textured square, head, muzzle, and upper arms
• Gray category 4 smooth yarn for the ears, hooves, and scalloped border
• Approximately 400–625 yards combined as a preliminary purchasing allowance; actual yardage needs a worked sample
• Small amount of black embroidery floss or smooth black yarn for the closed eyes and lashes
• Small amount of taupe or light brown embroidery floss for the nose
• Crochet hook approximately 4–4.5 mm for the blanket
• Smaller crochet hook for stuffed pieces if needed to prevent gaps
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle for assembly and weaving in ends
• Stitch markers for continuous rounds
• Rustproof pins or removable stitch markers for positioning pieces
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Yardage varies because the textured blanket is worked to measurement. The suggested yardage is preliminary and should be confirmed with a crocheted sample. Use consistent category 4 yarn for the ivory and gray sections to maintain similar stitch size and proportions.

Choose smooth baby yarn that holds its shape and allows every stitch and seam to be inspected. Avoid very fuzzy novelty yarn because it can shed, hide loose stitches, and make it difficult to confirm that stuffing remains fully enclosed.

Blanket base pattern for the crochet lamb lovey pattern

Want another quick handmade baby gift?

See easy baby quilt patterns that work up fast

Construction: This is a solid, textured granny-style square, not the openwork three-double-crochet-cluster square previously described. Work joined rounds with the right side facing throughout. Use ivory category 4 yarn and the larger hook chosen for the blanket. The beginning ch 3 counts as one dc. Each corner has a ch-2 space.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, ch 2. *3 dc into ring, ch 2* three times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Pull the center snug. (12 dc, four ch-2 corners)

Round 2: Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and then into the first ch-2 corner. Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc in that corner. Dc in each of the 3 dc along the next side. In the next corner work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Repeat this sequence around: one dc in each existing dc along a side, then (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in its next corner. After the fourth corner, dc in each remaining side dc and join to the top of the beginning ch 3. (28 dc, four ch-2 corners)

Rounds 3 and onward: After joining the previous round, sl st into the next dc and then into the first ch-2 corner space. Work (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in that corner. Continue along the side, working one stitch into EVERY stitch from the previous round, including the top of any bobble stitches. Do not skip stitches made as bobbles. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each subsequent corner space. Continue around all four sides and join to the top of the beginning ch 3. Each new round adds 16 stitches to the total. On plain rounds, work dc throughout. On textured rounds, substitute bobbles for selected dc as directed below. Keep all four corner groups as plain dc.

Blanket bobble: Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this partial dc four more times in the SAME stitch. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook. This bobble counts as ONE stitch in place of one dc. Push the bobble toward the front as needed; do not add a chain after it.

Texture placement: Beginning with Round 4, work every even-numbered round as a densely textured bobble round. On each side, count the existing stitches between the two ch-2 corner spaces. Work one dc in the first side stitch, then alternate one bobble and one dc across the side. This places bobbles in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and every following even-numbered side stitch. If one stitch remains at the end of the side, work one dc in it. Keep all four corner groups as plain dc, working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner space.

Plain rounds: Work every odd-numbered round entirely in dc. Work one dc into each existing stitch, including the tops of all bobbles from the previous round. Continue the established corner increases without adding or skipping stitches.

Texture checkpoints: Round 4 has 5 bobbles per side (20 total). Round 6 has 9 per side (36 total). Round 8 has 13 per side (52 total). Round 10 has 17 per side (68 total). Round 12 has 21 per side (84 total). Each bobble replaces exactly one dc and counts as one stitch. Do not add a chain after a bobble.

Shape checkpoint: The textured rounds should produce closely spaced raised stitches separated by ordinary dc stitches. Keep the corner groups smooth and check that the square remains flat after each round. If the increased bobble density causes excessive rippling, puckering, or stiffness, the fabric needs a gauge adjustment before continuing.

Stitch-count checkpoints: Round 1: 12 stitches; Round 2: 28; Round 3: 44; Round 4: 60; Round 5: 76; Round 6: 92; Round 7: 108; Round 8: 124; Round 9: 140; Round 10: 156; Round 11: 172; Round 12: 188; Round 13: 204; Round 14: 220. Count each bobble as one stitch. These totals exclude the four ch-2 corner spaces. Each completed round adds exactly 16 stitches.

Border stitch-count checkpoints: If the final ivory round is Round 8, the gray single-crochet border contains 136 sc. Round 9: 152 sc; Round 10: 168 sc; Round 11: 184 sc; Round 12: 200 sc; Round 13: 216 sc; Round 14: 232 sc. Confirm the correct total before beginning the scallops.

Shape and size: Continue working complete rounds in numerical order until the unbordered square measures approximately 11 1/2 to 13 1/2 inches across. Alternate plain and textured rounds as instructed. Never skip an odd-numbered round to reach the next textured round. Finish after a complete round and record its number because that determines the border stitch count and scallop placement.

Early size checkpoint: Measure the square after Round 6. If it is considerably smaller or larger than expected for your intended finished size, adjust your blanket hook before working many more rounds. The finished target is approximately 13–15 inches including the border, but that measurement has not yet been confirmed by a completed sample.

Before edging: Confirm that the square has four well-defined corners, all four sides contain the same number of stitches, and the fabric lies flat. The counted scallop instructions below cover blankets ending on Rounds 8–14. If a different final round is required, its scallop positions must be recalculated before working the edging.

Gray border, Round 1: With the right side facing, join gray yarn in any ch-2 corner space. Ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Work 3 sc into that corner space. Work 1 sc into EVERY stitch along the next side, including the tops of both dc stitches and bobble stitches. Do not skip bobbles or add extra stitches beside them. Work 3 sc into the next ch-2 corner space. Continue around the blanket, placing 1 sc in every existing stitch and 3 sc in each corner space. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Border stitch-count checkpoint: If the final ivory round was Round R, the gray border must contain (16 x R) + 8 sc. For Round 12, this equals 200 sc. Count every bobble as one stitch and work one sc into its top. Confirm the full border stitch count before beginning the scalloped edging.

Gray scallops, Round 2: Keep the gray yarn attached. Place a removable stitch marker in the MIDDLE sc of each three-sc corner group from Border Round 1. Each of these four marked corner stitches will hold one scallop.

Count between corners: If the final ivory blanket round was Round R, the distance from the middle stitch of one corner to the middle stitch of the next corner is (4 x R) + 2 stitch positions. Count the starting corner as position 0. For a Round-12 blanket, the next corner is at position 50. There are 49 stitches strictly between those two marked corner stitches. Do not count a corner stitch twice when moving to the next side.

Mark the side scallops: Beginning at each marked corner stitch, count forward toward the next marked corner. Place additional removable markers at the positions listed for your final ivory round:

• Round 8: positions 8, 17, and 26 on each side
• Round 9: positions 9, 19, and 29 on each side
• Round 10: positions 8, 17, 25, and 34 on each side
• Round 11: positions 9, 18, 28, and 37 on each side
• Round 12: positions 10, 20, 30, and 40 on each side
• Round 13: positions 9, 18, 27, 36, and 45 on each side
• Round 14: positions 10, 19, 29, 39, and 48 on each side

Count each side independently, starting again at position 0 in the middle sc of its corner. Do not count the same corner twice. Every corner and every additional marked position will receive one scallop.

Work the scallops: Slip stitch forward to the middle sc of the first marked corner. Work 7 dc into that marked stitch. Find the next marked scallop position. Between the two marked positions, work one sl st into the unmarked sc nearest their midpoint, choosing the earlier midpoint stitch when there are two choices. Skip the other unmarked stitches without pulling the working yarn tightly. Then work 7 dc into the next marked stitch. Continue around the entire border in this manner, making one seven-dc scallop at every marked position and one intervening slip-stitch anchor between neighboring scallops.

After the last scallop, make its final midpoint slip-stitch anchor, skip the remaining unmarked stitches, and join to the first dc of the starting scallop. Do not make another scallop in the first corner. Fasten off and weave in the gray yarn securely.

Scallop-count checkpoints: Rounds 8 and 9 give 16 scallops total. Rounds 10, 11, and 12 give 20 scallops total. Rounds 13 and 14 give 24 scallops total. Each total includes four corner scallops. All four sides must have the same number of scallops.

Border inspection: Remove every temporary marker. Lay the blanket flat and compare all four corners. The shells should be evenly distributed without tightly drawn strands, puckering, or excessive ruffling. This edging layout has been checked for count symmetry but still requires a worked sample to confirm its shape and drape.

Finishing checkpoint: Lay the square flat and block lightly. The gray border should have evenly spaced scallops, and the square should not buckle near the corners. Allow it to dry completely before attaching the lamb. Because yarn and gauge vary, adjust hook size on a sample before making the complete blanket.

Lamb head, ears, arms, and assembly

Read first: Use ivory for the head, muzzle, and upper arms; gray for the ears and hoof ends. The head, muzzle, ears, and arms are worked in continuous rounds with a marker in the first stitch. Do not join those rounds. The bobble stitch defined in the blanket instructions counts as one stitch. Use a hook small enough that stuffing cannot show through.

Finished-piece checklist: Before assembly, you should have seven crocheted components: one textured blanket with its completed gray border, one ivory head, one ivory muzzle, two gray ears, and two ivory arms with gray hooves. The eyes and nose are embroidered details, not separate crocheted pieces. No additional ties or decorative pieces are required.

Small ivory muzzle (make 1)

Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Round 2: Inc in every stitch. (12)

Round 3: *Sc, inc* six times. (18)

Round 4: Sc in each stitch. (18)

Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch sewing tail. Leave the muzzle UNSTUFFED so it forms a subtle raised area on the smooth lower face.

Gray oval ears (make 2)

With gray yarn, ch 10. Work around both sides of the foundation chain to create an oval; use a marker to identify the first stitch of each round.

Round 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each of the next 7 chains (8 sc). Work 3 sc in the last chain. Rotate to work along the unused underside loops: sc in the next 7 chains, then 2 sc in the final chain underside. (20 sc)

Round 2: Sc in next 8 sc, inc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc, inc in each of last 2 sc. (25 sc)

Round 3: Sc in each stitch around. (25 sc)

Sl st in next stitch and fasten off with a 15-inch sewing tail. Do not stuff. Flatten into a shallow elongated oval. Pinch one short end together with two small stitches to form the narrow ear base; leave the broad opposite end free and rounded.

Ivory lamb head with textured wool crown

Begin at the top of the head with ivory yarn. Work in a continuous spiral, placing a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Bobbles count as one stitch each. Gently push them toward the outside of the head as you work.

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)

Round 2: Inc in each stitch. (12)

Round 3: *Sc, inc* six times. (18)

Round 4: *Sc in next 2 stitches, inc* six times. (24)

Round 5, wool texture: *Bobble in next stitch, sc in next stitch* 12 times. (24 stitches; 12 bobbles)

Round 6: *Sc in next 3 stitches, inc* six times. (30)

Round 7, wool texture: *Bobble, sc* 15 times. (30 stitches; 15 bobbles)

Round 8: *Sc in next 4 stitches, inc* six times. (36)

Round 9, wool texture: *Bobble, sc* 18 times. (36 stitches; 18 bobbles)

Round 10: *Sc in next 5 stitches, inc* six times. (42)

Round 11, wool texture: *Bobble, sc* 21 times. (42 stitches; 21 bobbles)

Round 12: Sc around. (42)

Round 13, last wool-texture round: *Bobble, sc* 21 times. (42 stitches; 21 bobbles)

Rounds 14 through 17, smooth face: Sc in each stitch of each round. (42 in every round)

Round 18: *Sc in next 5 stitches, dec* six times. (36)

Round 19: *Sc in next 4 stitches, dec* six times. (30)

Round 20: *Sc in next 3 stitches, dec* six times. (24)

Round 21: *Sc in next 2 stitches, dec* six times. (18)

Round 22: *Sc, dec* six times. (12)

Fasten off, leaving at least 30 inches of yarn for attachment. DO NOT close the last 12-stitch opening. Keep the head unstuffed until the facial details and ears are attached. The 42-stitch section forms the broad upper head; its actual diameter depends on the yarn and tension.

Two arms with gray hooves (make 2)

Begin each arm at the rounded gray hoof tip. Mark the beginning of each round.

Round 1, gray: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)

Round 2: Inc in each stitch. (12)

Round 3: *Sc in next 3 stitches, inc* three times. (15)

Rounds 4 and 5: Sc around. (15 each round)

Round 6: *Sc in next 3 stitches, dec* three times. (12) On the last stitch, use ivory for the final yarn over to change color cleanly.

Rounds 7 through 12, ivory: Sc around. (12 each round)

Round 13: *Sc in next 2 stitches, dec* three times. (9)

Rounds 14 and 15: Sc around. (9 each round)

Fasten off with a 20-inch ivory sewing tail. Add a small amount of fiberfill through the open top, keeping the gray hoof rounded and the upper arm lightly filled. Leave the uppermost portion softly filled so it can flatten for attachment.

Flatten the nine-stitch opening with the first and ninth stitches aligned at one end. Four pairs of opposing stitches form the flattened upper edge, with the remaining middle stitch centered at the other end. Use the sewing tail to secure the flattened edge through both layers before attaching the arm to the blanket. Keep the attachment tail available for the reinforced assembly seam.

Embroidered face and ear placement

Place the head spiral jog at the back. With the head unstuffed, position the small UNSTUFFED muzzle at the lower center front, approximately over Head Rounds 16 through 19. Sew it neatly around the edge without pulling the smooth face into a pucker.

Using black embroidery floss or smooth black yarn, embroider two gently curved closed eyes on the smooth face around Rounds 15 and 16, evenly spaced about 6 stitches from eye center to eye center. Add one short lash at the outer end of each eye if desired. With taupe or light brown floss, embroider a tiny nose and short vertical stitch in the center of the muzzle. Secure all ends INSIDE the head before stuffing.

Place the narrow bases of the two gray ears on opposite sides of the head around Rounds 12 through 16. The broad oval tips should extend outward and droop slightly. Sew across each pinched base twice. Check that both ears sit at equal heights and are firmly attached.

Stuffing and attachment

Stuff the head in small amounts through the remaining 12-stitch neck opening. Shape the smooth face without stretching it and keep stuffing about 1/2 inch clear of the open base. No stuffing should show through stitches.

Lay the blocked ivory blanket with one corner facing down. Place the head over the starting center ring, with the face toward that corner. Match the 12 open base stitches of the head to the 12 dc of Blanket Round 1. Do not use the four ch-2 corner spaces as attachment points. With the 30-inch head tail, stitch each head-base stitch to one of those 12 dc, then repeat all 12 attachments for reinforcement. The larger head needs a stable, flat base and must not wobble.

Arrange the two arms on the blanket immediately to the left and right of the head base, pointing diagonally downward and outward, with gray hooves visible. Tuck their flattened ivory tops underneath the lower side edges of the head. Sew the full width of each flattened top firmly to the blanket with TWO passes through the crochet fabric; add a few discreet securing stitches where each arm meets the lower side of the head. Do not attach either arm by a single strand or one stitch.

Final inspection: Check all seven crocheted components and every attachment seam. Gently test the head, muzzle, two ears, and two arms for loose connections. Check both gray hooves for exposed stuffing or gaps. Inspect the embroidered eyes and nose, the blanket center, all four corners, and the complete scalloped edging. Secure and weave in every yarn end. Remove all temporary pins and stitch markers. Do not use the lovey if any component is loose or damaged. This project is intended only for supervised awake-time use and must remain outside infant sleep spaces.

About the photographed bow: The loose yarn bow visible in the photograph is a styling detail and is intentionally excluded from these instructions. Leave the neck undecorated. Do not add tied yarn loops, dangling ends, or removable embellishments to a lovey intended for supervised infant use.

Safety + use notes

This crochet lamb lovey is intended only for supervised comfort and awake-time use.

Do not place the lovey in a crib, bassinet, play yard, or other infant sleep space. Soft blankets, toys, comfort objects, and other loose items should remain outside an infant’s sleep area.

Use embroidered facial features rather than plastic eyes, buttons, beads, bells, or other hard attachments. Do not add loose bows, long yarn ties, ribbons, or loops that could pull free or wrap around a child.

Inspect the lovey before every use and after every washing. Check the center head attachment, both ears, both arms, gray hooves, muzzle, embroidered features, scalloped border, and all visible stitches for looseness, damage, or exposed stuffing.

Repair damage before allowing further use. Discontinue use if a seam, attachment, or damaged section cannot be restored securely.

For broader nursery safety information, see the guidance provided by the American Academy of Pediatrics.

Safe sleep information from HealthyChildren.org

Once you have completed one lamb lovey, the measured blanket base and wide head-attachment method can be adapted for other small crocheted animal designs.

More Handmade Baby Gift Ideas

See the baby lovey pattern list →

This lamb lovey pairs well with other handmade baby gifts, especially when you are building a nursery-themed gift basket or planning a baby shower present.

The complete crochet animal lovey pattern collection can help you choose another animal that matches the same nursery theme or handmade gift basket.

For more handmade projects, visit my free baby crochet patterns collection.

For full baby shower planning ideas that pair beautifully with handmade gifts, visit my baby shower ideas hub.

For a coordinating celebration look built around the same gentle lamb theme, see these lamb baby shower theme ideas that complement a handmade lovey.

Frequently Asked Questions About This Crochet Lamb Lovey Pattern

Can this crochet lamb lovey pattern be enlarged?

Yes. Continue the established solid-square construction, alternating smooth and textured rounds, until the blanket reaches your preferred size. Complete each round before stopping. The gray border has a single-crochet foundation round followed by a scalloped edging round. The scallop placements provided in this pattern cover blanket rounds 8–14. A larger blanket requires recalculating the scallop positions so all four sides and corners remain symmetrical. Keep the head proportionate and attach it securely through the full neck opening.

Can I use a different animal head instead of a lamb?

Yes. The blanket base can support another small crocheted animal head when the replacement head is similar in size and is attached through a wide open base rather than one narrow point.

For another farm-style handmade baby gift, see my crochet cow pattern. For a safari-style version, my crochet lion lovey pattern uses the same kind of soft lovey structure with a different animal topper.

For an Australian animal baby gift, this crochet koala lovey pattern uses the same handmade lovey idea with a nursery-friendly animal topper.

What yarn works best for a baby comfort blanket?

For the pictured-style lamb lovey, choose smooth, washable category 4 baby yarn in ivory and gray. Use a hook that produces an even blanket texture and a smaller hook for the stuffed pieces if necessary to prevent visible gaps. Changing yarn weight changes the stitch size, blanket dimensions, and finished proportions, so any substitution requires checking the measurements again.

Can this lovey be machine washed?

That depends on the care instructions for the yarn used. When the yarn label permits machine washing, place the lovey in a mesh laundry bag and use a gentle cycle. Reshape it after washing and allow it to dry completely before use.

Inspect the center attachment, muzzle, ears, embroidery, and all seams after every washing. Include the yarn brand, fiber content, washing instructions, and inspection reminder when giving the lovey as a gift.

Is this crochet lamb lovey pattern safe for newborns?

This crochet lamb lovey is intended for supervised awake-time comfort rather than sleep. It should remain outside the crib, bassinet, and other infant sleep spaces.

Use tight stitching, secure seams, embroidered features, and regular inspection. Do not add plastic eyes, buttons, beads, bells, loose bows, long ties, ribbons, or other removable embellishments.

Careful stitching, a wide reinforced head attachment, secure embroidered details, and clear supervised-use boundaries help make the finished lamb lovey a practical handmade keepsake or baby shower gift.