This crochet cow pattern shows how to make a soft cow lovey step by step, including the head, snout, ears, horns, arms, square blanket body, and final assembly. The face is finished with embroidered eyes and other simple yarn details.
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Skill level: Confident beginner. You should be comfortable working in continuous rounds, making decreases, joining rounds, embroidering simple facial details, and sewing small crochet pieces securely.
Gauge: Exact gauge is not critical for this pattern. Use a firm tension on the stuffed pieces so the stuffing does not show through the stitches. Continue the lovey body rounds until the finished blanket reaches the stated diagonal measurement.
Lovey body: about 10 to 12 inches from one corner diagonally across the center to the opposite corner, including the border
Cow head: about 3 to 4 inches tall
Beginner option: If you do not want to use a magic ring, ch 2 and work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
Use cream or white yarn. Work in continuous rounds without joining. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
R2: inc in each st around. (12)
R3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat around. (18)
R4: *sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st* repeat around. (24)
R5: *sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st* repeat around. (30)
R6: *sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st* repeat around. (36)
R7–R11: sc in each st around. (36)
R12: *sc in next 4 sts, dec* repeat around. (30)
R13: *sc in next 3 sts, dec* repeat around. (24)
R14: *sc in next 2 sts, dec* repeat around. (18)
Stuff the head firmly enough to hold its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches stretch open.
R15: *sc in next st, dec* repeat around. (12)
R16: dec around. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail at least 30 inches long. Thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pull the opening closed, but do not weave in the tail.
The starting magic ring is the top of the cow’s head. The closed decrease point is the bottom and will be used when attaching the head to the lovey body.
Use pink yarn. Work in continuous rounds.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
R2: inc in each st around. (12)
R3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat around. (18)
R4–R5: sc in each st around. (18)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff the snout. Pin the open edge to the front of the head with its top edge between R9 and R10 and its lower edge near R13. Center it directly below the eye line, then sew all the way around the open edge.
Use brown or black yarn. Work the spots in continuous rounds without joining. Make 1 optional head spot for the eye area and 1 to 3 body spots, depending on the look you want.
Small circle spot:
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
R2: inc in each st around. (12)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Oval spot:
Ch 5.
R1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in last ch. (10)
R2: inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, inc in last 2 sts. (16)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
If you made the optional head spot, pin and sew it flat around one eye area now, before embroidering the eye. Do not pull the sewing stitches tightly enough to dent the head. Set the body spots aside until the lovey body and border are complete.
For a baby gift, embroider the eyes instead of using plastic safety eyes. Place the eyes between R8 and R9, about 6 stitches apart. Make each eye with 3 to 4 small vertical stitches using black yarn or embroidery thread.
For general baby product safety guidance, you can review recommendations from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission safe sleep guidelines, which outline important considerations for items used around infants.
Embroider two small nostrils on the snout, about 4 stitches apart. Add a tiny curved smile under the snout if desired.
After completing each embroidered detail, make a small securing stitch in a hidden area. Pass the needle through the stuffed head, bring it out at another point, and trim the yarn so the end slips back inside the stuffing.
Use cream or white yarn. Work in continuous rounds.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
R2: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat around. (9)
R3: *sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st* repeat around. (12)
R4 to R5: sc in each st around. (12)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the opening so the 12 stitches form 6 matched pairs. Sew through both layers across the opening, then use the remaining tail to sew the ear to the side of the head between R5 and R7. Angle the ear slightly outward.
Use tan yarn. Work in continuous rounds.
R1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
R2: sc in each st around. (4)
R3: *sc in next st, inc in next st* repeat around. (6)
R4: sc in each st around. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add only a tiny pinch of stuffing if needed. Sew the horns to the top of the head between R3 and R5, about 4 stitches apart.
After sewing the snout, head spot, ears, or horns in place, make a small securing stitch at the base of the piece. Pass the remaining tail through the stuffed head, bring it out at another point, and trim it so the end slips back inside the stuffing.
Start with brown or black yarn for the hoof. Work in continuous rounds.
R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
R2: inc in each st around. (12)
R3: sc in each st around. (12)
On the final sc of R3, complete the last yarn-over with cream or white yarn. Cut the brown or black yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in. Keep both yarn ends inside the arm and weave them through several stitches before closing the top.
R4–R9: sc in each st around. (12)
Lightly stuff the hoof end only. Leave the upper part mostly flat so the arm does not pull the lovey body inward.
Flatten the opening so the 12 stitches form 6 matched pairs. Sc through both layers across the top to close. (6 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Use cream or white yarn. This body is worked from the center outward in joined rounds. Each completed round adds 8 single crochet stitches in total and 2 stitches between each pair of corner spaces.
Round-count note: The beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch in the lovey body rounds or border. Do not work into the joining sl st. Count only the sc stitches and the four ch-2 corner spaces listed for each round.
R1: Ch 4. Sl st into the first ch to form a ring.
R2: Ch 1. Work into the center ring: sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2. Sl st to the first sc to join. (4 sc and 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
R3: Sl st into the first ch-2 corner space. Ch 1. Work *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner space, sc in the next sc* repeat 4 times. Sl st to the first sc to join. (12 sc total, with 3 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R4: Sl st into the first ch-2 corner space. Ch 1. Work *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner space, sc in each sc across to the next ch-2 corner space* repeat around. Sl st to the first sc to join. (20 sc total, with 5 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R5: Repeat R4. (28 sc total, with 7 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R6: Repeat R4. (36 sc total, with 9 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R7: Repeat R4. (44 sc total, with 11 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R8: Repeat R4. (52 sc total, with 13 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R9: Repeat R4. (60 sc total, with 15 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R10: Repeat R4. (68 sc total, with 17 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R11: Repeat R4. (76 sc total, with 19 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
R12: Repeat R4. (84 sc total, with 21 sc between each pair of corner spaces)
After R12, continue repeating R4 until the square is close to the desired finished size. Measure from one side corner straight across to the opposite side corner while the body is lying flat. Each extra round adds 8 sc in total and 2 sc between each pair of corner spaces.
Do not stop based on the round number alone. The completed body, including its border, should measure about 10 to 12 inches across opposite corners.
After completing the final body round, ch 1. Sc in every sc around. Work 3 sc into each ch-2 corner space. Sl st to the first sc to join. The border will contain 12 more sc than the final body round.
Fasten off and weave in the end.
If the body cups upward, check that every round contains one complete (sc, ch 2, sc) group in each of the four corner spaces and loosen your tension if needed. If the body becomes wavy, make sure no corner received more than one corner group.
If you made body spots, lay the finished lovey body flat and choose the side with the neater joins and less-visible joining seam. This will be the front of the lovey. Keep the front facing up, arrange the spots away from the four corners, and leave the center area clear for the head attachment.
Pin every spot before sewing. Sew around the outside edge of each spot, keeping the stitches loose enough for the blanket to remain flat. Secure each tail on the back and weave it through the spot or nearby blanket stitches.
Fold the lovey body from one corner to the opposite corner, then fold it in the other direction. Mark the point where the two folds cross. This is the exact center of the blanket.
Lay the body with the front side facing up and one corner pointing upward like a diamond.
Place the closed decrease point at the bottom of the cow’s head directly over the marked blanket center. The head itself will sit above the center line. Pin the head securely before sewing.
Thread the long tail left on the head. Bring the needle through the stuffed head so it exits near R14.
Sew through each stitch around R14 and through the blanket stitches directly underneath, forming an even attachment ring around the lower part of the head. Do not attach the head only through the 6-stitch closing point.
Complete one full pass around the attachment ring. Check that the blanket remains flat, then sew around the same ring a second time. Keep the stitches firm but do not pull tightly enough to pucker the blanket.
After the second pass, make a small securing stitch and knot at the base of the head. Pass the yarn through the stuffed head, bring it out at a different point, pull gently, and trim the end so it slips back inside the stuffing.
Place one arm on each side about 1 inch below the attached head. Angle both arms slightly downward and pin them before sewing.
Use the long arm tail to sew through all 6 closing stitches across the flattened top of the arm and through the matching blanket stitches underneath. Sew across the attachment a second time, then weave the tail securely into the arm.
Check that both arms sit at the same height and that neither attachment pulls the blanket inward.
Check the ears and horns after the head is attached. The ears should sit between R5 and R7 on each side of the head. The horns should sit between R3 and R5 on top of the head, about 4 stitches apart.
For a baby gift, use embroidered eyes and facial details instead of plastic eyes, buttons, beads, bells, ribbons, glued pieces, or other detachable decorations.
This handmade lovey is for supervised awake use only. Do not place it in a crib, bassinet, play yard, or other infant sleep space. Infant sleep spaces should remain clear of blankets, stuffed toys, pillows, and other soft objects.
For current infant sleep guidance, review the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission safe sleep information.
Before gifting and before each use, tug firmly on the head, arms, ears, horns, snout, and every sewn spot. Stop using the lovey until any loose seam or damaged area has been repaired. Make sure all yarn ends remain securely woven into the fabric or buried inside the stuffed pieces.
Follow the yarn label for washing and drying. Reshape the lovey while damp if needed, and allow it to dry completely before use.
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