Free Crochet Cat Lovey Pattern (Easy Baby Security Blanket)

By Jan Bay

If you're looking for a free crochet cat lovey pattern that makes a cuddly kitty that is easy enough for confident beginners, this sweet kitten security blanket is a wonderful project. The finished lovey combines an adorable cat head, tiny paws, and a textured blanket that little hands can easily grasp, making it a thoughtful handmade baby shower gift or a charming addition to a cat-themed nursery.

Soft Baby Yarn for Crochet Cat Lovey Patterns

Crochet Cat Lovey Pattern Quick Answer

Some handmade baby gifts quietly become part of a family's everyday routine. Long after the newborn outfits have been packed away, the little lovey is still riding in the stroller, tucked beside a favorite bedtime book, or waiting in the diaper bag before another trip out the door. That was the goal behind this crochet cat lovey pattern.

I wanted this kitten to be recognizable without relying on oversized ears, huge eyes, or extra decorations. The proportions do most of the work. A slightly narrower forehead, rounded cheeks, and carefully placed ears create a kitten that still looks like a cat even before the face is embroidered.

The pattern is organized the same way most crocheters naturally work. You'll complete the blanket first, crochet each cat piece separately, and finish with one assembly session. If you're making gifts for twins or several baby showers, that order also makes batch crocheting much faster because you can finish all of the blanket squares before switching to the smaller pieces.

If you enjoy making matching nursery gifts, you'll also find coordinating designs in my Crochet Animal Lovey Patterns collection and even more handmade projects on my Free Baby Crochet Patterns page.

The easiest mistake in this crochet cat lovey pattern happens before the face is embroidered.

Move the ears only two stitches lower than they belong and the kitten begins looking more like a teddy bear than a cat.

Later in the pattern you'll see recommended stitch placement measurements that help keep the ears in the intended position.

Materials

Clear stitch definition makes this project much easier. Use the larger hook for the blanket and the smaller hook for the stuffed and shaped cat pieces. The smaller hook creates firm fabric that helps keep the fiberfill from showing through the head.

• Approximately 250 yards #4 worsted weight baby yarn for the blanket
• Approximately 110 yards coordinating #4 worsted weight yarn for the head, ears, paws, and tail
• Approximately 20 yards contrast yarn for the muzzle and optional inner ears
• Less than 3 yards black embroidery floss
• Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook for the blanket
• Size G (4.0 mm) crochet hook for the cat pieces
• Yarn needle
• Locking stitch markers
• Scissors
• Approximately 1½ ounces polyester fiberfill
• Flexible measuring tape

Supply	Amount
Blanket Yarn	Approximately 250 yards
Cat-Color Yarn	Approximately 110 yards
Contrast Yarn	Approximately 20 yards
Embroidery Floss	Less than 3 yards
Fiberfill	Approximately 1½ ounces
Blanket Hook	H (5.0 mm)
Cat-Piece Hook	G (4.0 mm)

Recommended Yarn

Use a smooth, machine-washable #4 worsted weight yarn that meets the measurements in the gauge section. Use the same yarn weight for the blanket and cat pieces, but switch to the smaller hook for the head, ears, paws, muzzle, and tail.

Do not substitute a thinner yarn used alone or two strands of thicker yarn without making a gauge sample. Either change can alter the blanket size, head proportions, paw length, tail length, and amount of yarn required.

Stitches Used

• Magic Ring
• Chain
• Slip Stitch
• Single Crochet
• Half Double Crochet
• Double Crochet
• Increase
• Invisible Decrease

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: work 2 single crochet in the same stitch
• invisible dec: invisible single crochet decrease over the next 2 stitches
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches

Gauge

Blanket Gauge with the 5.0 mm Hook

• After Blanket Round 4, the square should measure approximately 4¼ to 4½ inches across.
• After Blanket Round 8, the square should measure approximately 8½ to 9 inches across.
• After Blanket Round 12, the square should measure approximately 13 inches across before the borders are added.

Cat-Piece Gauge with the 4.0 mm Hook

• 18 single crochet stitches = approximately 4 inches
• 20 single crochet rounds = approximately 4 inches
• The fabric should be firm enough that fiberfill does not show between the stitches.

Change hook size before continuing if your measurements are substantially different. The blanket and cat pieces must meet their separate gauge checkpoints for the finished proportions to agree.

Finished Measurements

Piece	Approximate Size
Blanket	14 × 14 inches
Head	Approximately 4¼ inches across and 3¼ to 3¾ inches tall
Each Ear	1¾ inches tall
Each Front Paw	Approximately 3¼ inches long
Tail	Approximately 5 inches long
Finished Weight	Approximately 7 to 9 ounces
Estimated Yardage	Approximately 380 yards total

Before You Begin

Pattern Notes

• The granny-square blanket rounds are joined with a slip stitch as written.
• The head, paws, muzzle, and tail are worked in continuous rounds unless a section specifically uses rows.
• Do not join or turn the continuous rounds.
• Use a stitch marker to identify the first stitch of every continuous round.
• Beginning chains count as stitches only where noted.
• The chain 1 used before a single crochet or half double crochet border does not count as a stitch.
• The chain 1 used when turning an ear row does not count as a stitch.
• Use the 5.0 mm hook for the blanket and the 4.0 mm hook for all cat pieces.
• Weave in ordinary yarn ends after each section, but keep every instructed sewing tail.
• Stuff only the head. Leave the paws and tail unstuffed.
• Block the blanket before attaching the cat pieces.
• Lay the blanket flat after every two granny rounds. It should remain square without curling or rippling.

Color Ideas

Changing only the yarn colors gives every kitten its own personality.

• Gray with a white muzzle creates a tabby appearance.
• Black with white paws resembles a tuxedo cat.
• Muted orange creates a ginger kitten.
• Cream with darker ears and tail gives a Siamese inspired appearance.
• Gray, cream, and orange patches create a calico inspired look without copying the markings of any individual family pet.

If you're making several baby gifts, crochet every blanket first, then every head, and finally every smaller piece. Working in batches keeps your stitch tension more consistent, and it also keeps you from having one lovey with a loose blanket and another with a tight little head that doesn't quite match.

Project Summary

Crochet Cat Lovey Pattern Blanket Instructions

The blanket is worked first so it can relax into shape before the kitten pieces are attached. That makes assembly easier later because you are sewing onto a flat square instead of trying to force the fabric into place.

This blanket uses a granny style center with two border rounds. The center gives the lovey texture for little hands to grasp, while the border makes the edges look finished enough for gifting.

Blanket Foundation Ring

With the main blanket color, chain 4.

Join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring.

Tip: If you prefer a tighter center, use a magic ring instead. Work Round 1 into the magic ring and pull it closed before joining.

Blanket Round 1

Chain 3. This counts as the first double crochet.

Work 2 double crochet into the ring. Chain 2.

*Work 3 double crochet into the ring. Chain 2.*

Repeat from * to * two more times.

Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.

Stitch Count: Four 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Blanket Round 2

Slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the first corner space.

Chain 3. Work 2 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet in the same corner space.

In each remaining corner space, work 3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet.

Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.

Stitch Count: Eight 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Blanket Round 3

Slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the first corner space.

Chain 3. Work 2 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet in the same corner space.

Work 3 double crochet in the next side space.

*In the next corner space, work 3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet. Work 3 double crochet in the next side space.*

Repeat from * to * around.

Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.

Stitch Count: Twelve 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Blanket Rounds 4 Through 12

At the beginning of each round, slip stitch into the next two double crochet stitches and into the first corner space.

Chain 3. This counts as the first double crochet. Work 2 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet in the same corner space.

Work 3 double crochet in every side space until you reach the next corner.

In each remaining corner space, work 3 double crochet, chain 2, 3 double crochet. Continue working 3 double crochet in every side space between the corners.

Do not add chain stitches between the side groups.

Join each round with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.

After every round, lay the square flat on a table and look at the corners. If they are pulling inward, loosen the corner chains slightly on the next round. If the edges ripple, tighten your tension slightly.

Round 4 Stitch Count: Sixteen 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 5 Stitch Count: Twenty 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 6 Stitch Count: Twenty-four 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 7 Stitch Count: Twenty-eight 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 8 Stitch Count: Thirty-two 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 9 Stitch Count: Thirty-six 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 10 Stitch Count: Forty 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 11 Stitch Count: Forty-four 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

Round 12 Stitch Count: Forty-eight 3 double crochet groups and four chain 2 corner spaces.

After Round 4, the square should measure approximately 4¼ to 4½ inches across. After Round 8, it should measure approximately 8½ to 9 inches across. After Round 12, it should measure approximately 13 inches across before the borders are added.

Blanket Border Round 13

Chain 1. The chain does not count as a stitch.

Work 1 single crochet in the same stitch as the join. This is the top of the beginning chain 3 from Round 12.

Work 1 single crochet in each remaining double crochet and 1 single crochet in each gap between adjacent 3 double crochet groups along the sides.

Work 3 single crochet in each chain 2 corner space.

Do not work into the joining slip stitch.

Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet.

Stitch Count: 200 single crochet stitches.

Blanket Border Round 14

Chain 1. The chain does not count as a stitch.

Work 1 half double crochet in the same stitch as the join.

Work 1 half double crochet in each remaining stitch around, except work 3 half double crochet in the center stitch of each 3-stitch corner.

Do not work into the joining slip stitch.

Join with a slip stitch to the first half double crochet.

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Stitch Count: 208 half double crochet stitches.

Blanket Checkpoint

Don't worry if your blanket doesn't look perfectly square yet. I almost never judge a granny square until it's been blocked. Those slightly wavy edges usually relax beautifully once the stitches have had a chance to settle, and it's much easier to judge the finished shape after blocking than while it's still fresh off the hook.

Blocking the Blanket Before Assembly

Lightly dampen the blanket with clean water.

Lay it flat on a towel and smooth each corner into a right angle.

Pat the edges into shape without stretching the center.

Allow the blanket to dry completely before attaching the kitten pieces.

Blocking now helps the finished crochet cat lovey sit flatter after the head, paws, and tail are sewn on. It also gives you a cleaner surface for measuring placement later.

Once the blanket is finished, the project starts to look like a real lovey instead of a pile of supplies. Next, the kitten head gives the piece its character, and that is where the ear placement, cheek shape, and embroidered face begin to matter.

Crochet Cat Head Pattern

Use the 4.0 mm hook and the cat-color yarn. Work the head in continuous rounds without joining or turning. Move the stitch marker after every round.

Round 1

Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into the ring.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches.

Round 3

*(Sc in next st, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 18 stitches.

Round 4

*(Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 24 stitches.

Round 5

*(Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 30 stitches.

Round 6

*(Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 36 stitches.

Round 7

*(Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 42 stitches.

Round 8

*(Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 48 stitches.

Round 9

*(Sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 54 stitches.

Round 10

*(Sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 60 stitches.

Rounds 11 through 20

Single crochet in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 60 stitches each round.

Round 21

*(Sc in next 8 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 54 stitches.

Round 22

*(Sc in next 7 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 48 stitches.

Round 23

*(Sc in next 6 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 42 stitches.

Round 24

*(Sc in next 5 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 36 stitches.

Round 25

*(Sc in next 4 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 30 stitches.

Begin stuffing the head with small pinches of fiberfill. Shape the crown, cheeks, and sides evenly. Keep the stuffing firm enough to hold the rounded shape but not so tight that fiberfill shows between the stitches.

Round 26

*(Sc in next 3 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 24 stitches.

Round 27

*(Sc in next 2 sts, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 18 stitches.

Round 28

*(Sc in next st, invisible dec) around.*

Stitch Count: 12 stitches.

Add the final small amount of fiberfill. Smooth the head into a slightly wide, rounded kitten shape rather than a perfect ball.

Round 29

Invisible decrease around.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a 36-inch tail. Thread the tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch, pull the opening closed, and secure the closure. Keep the remaining tail for attaching the head to the blanket.

Finished Head Checkpoint: The stuffed head should measure approximately 4¼ inches across and approximately 3¼ to 3¾ inches from the crown to the closed lower end. It should be rounded through the cheeks with slightly more width than height.

Crochet Cat Ears

Use the 4.0 mm hook. The ears are worked back and forth in rows. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Make 2 ears.

Row 1

Chain 2. Work 2 single crochet in the second chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 2 stitches.

Row 2

Increase in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 4 stitches.

Row 3

Single crochet across. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 4 stitches.

Row 4

Sc in first st, inc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in last st. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Row 5

Single crochet across. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Row 6

Sc in next 2 sts, inc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in final 2 sts. Chain 1 and turn.

Stitch Count: 8 stitches.

Rows 7 through 9

Single crochet across. Chain 1 and turn after Rows 7 and 8 only.

Stitch Count: 8 stitches each row.

Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch sewing tail. Each ear should measure approximately 1¾ inches tall.

Optional Inner Ear

Make 2 inner ears.

Using contrast yarn and the 4.0 mm hook, repeat Ear Rows 1 through 5 for each inner ear.

Fasten off each inner ear, leaving a 12-inch tail. Center one smaller triangle on each larger ear and sew it in place, leaving an even border of the cat-color yarn visible.

Crochet Cat Muzzle

Use the 4.0 mm hook and contrast yarn. Work in continuous rounds without joining.

Round 1

Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into the ring.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches.

Round 3

*(Sc in next st, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 18 stitches.

Round 4

*(Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) around.*

Stitch Count: 24 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch sewing tail. Do not stuff the muzzle. Flatten it gently before sewing. It should measure approximately 1¾ inches across.

Completing the Cat Face

Complete the ears, muzzle, and embroidery before attaching the head to the blanket.

1. Pin the lower inside corner of each ear between Head Rounds 9 and 10, leaving approximately 10 stitches between the inside corners.
2. Angle the ear tips slightly outward and sew each ear securely around its lower edge.
3. Center the muzzle below the eyes, with its upper edge near Head Round 15 and its lower edge near Head Round 23. Sew completely around its outer edge.
4. Embroider the sleepy eyes between Head Rounds 14 and 15, leaving approximately 8 stitches between the inside ends of the eyes.
5. Embroider the nose in the upper center of the muzzle.
6. Add the mouth immediately below the nose.
7. Add 2 short whiskers on each side. Keep each whisker under ¾ inch long and secure every embroidery end inside the head.

Check the completed face from the front before weaving in the ear, muzzle, and embroidery ends.

To bury each sewing or embroidery end, pass the needle through the stuffed head and bring it out at the lower back or another hidden area. Pull gently, trim the yarn close to the surface, and allow the cut end to retract inside the head.

Crochet Cat Paws

Use the 4.0 mm hook and cat-color yarn. Work in continuous rounds without joining or turning. The paws are left unstuffed so they lie flat against the blanket.

Make 2 paws.

Round 1

Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into the ring.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches.

Rounds 3 through 16

Single crochet in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches each round.

Do not stuff the paw. Rotate the tube so the beginning-of-round line rests along one side. Flatten the open end with 6 stitches on the front and 6 stitches on the back.

Single crochet through both layers using 6 stitches to close the opening.

Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch sewing tail.

Finished Size: Approximately 3¼ inches long and 1¼ inches wide when flattened.

Crochet Cat Tail

Use the 4.0 mm hook and cat-color yarn. Work in continuous rounds without joining or turning. Leave the tail unstuffed so it can curve smoothly against the blanket.

Round 1

Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into the ring.

Stitch Count: 6 stitches.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches.

Rounds 3 through 25

Single crochet in every stitch around.

Stitch Count: 12 stitches each round.

Flatten the open end with 6 stitches on the front and 6 stitches on the back.

Single crochet through both layers using 6 stitches to close the opening.

Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch sewing tail.

Finished Size: Approximately 5 inches long.

Assembling the Crochet Cat Lovey

I always pin every piece to the blanket before I sew a single stitch. Looking at the whole kitten from a few feet away makes it much easier to spot an ear that's sitting too low or a head that's just slightly off center. Spending five extra minutes here usually saves much more time than removing and resewing pieces later.

Repeatability Check Before Sewing

Repeatability Check Before Sewing

Before final assembly, measure every piece. Remake a piece that is substantially outside these measurements before attaching it to the blanket.

• Head should be approximately 4¼ inches across and 3¼ to 3¾ inches tall.
• Each ear should be approximately 1¾ inches tall.
• Each paw should be approximately 3¼ inches long.
• Tail should be approximately 5 inches long.
• Blocked blanket should be approximately 14 inches square.

Placement Guide

Piece	Placement
Head	Centered along the top blanket edge with the lower back overlapping the blanket by approximately 1 inch. Sew across a curved attachment area approximately 2½ to 3 inches wide.
Ears	Lower inside corners between Head Rounds 9 and 10, with approximately 10 stitches between the inside corners.
Eyes	Between Head Rounds 14 and 15, with approximately 8 stitches between the inside ends.
Muzzle	Centered below the eyes, with the upper edge near Head Round 15 and the lower edge near Head Round 23.
Paws	Closed upper edges beneath the head with approximately 1 inch between the inside edges. Sew only the closed upper edge of each paw to the blanket.
Tail	Base approximately 2½ inches above either lower corner. Keep the full curved tail inside the blanket border and secure it at the base, midpoint, and tip.

Assembly Order

1. Lay the blocked blanket flat with the smoother side facing up. Choose one edge as the top.
2. Center the completed head along the top edge. The face must point forward, and the lower back of the head should overlap the blanket by approximately 1 inch.
3. Thread the 36-inch head tail onto the yarn needle. Pass the needle through the stuffed head and bring it out at one end of the planned attachment seam. Sew a curved attachment seam approximately 2½ to 3 inches wide through the lower back of the head and the blanket. Do not sew through the front of the face.
4. Sew across the attachment area once, then return across the same area in the opposite direction for a second reinforcing pass. Keep the blanket flat while sewing so the top edge does not gather.
5. Place the closed upper edges of the paws beneath the head with approximately 1 inch between their inside edges. Both paws should point straight down toward the lower blanket edge.
6. Sew through all 6 closing stitches at the top of each paw and through the blanket. Return across the same edge for a second pass. Leave the remaining length of each paw free so it lies flat over the blanket.
7. Position the tail along either lower side of the blanket. Place its base approximately 2½ inches above the nearest lower corner and curve the tail toward that corner without allowing any part to extend beyond the blanket border.
8. Sew the closed base of the tail firmly to the blanket. Use matching yarn to add one small hidden tack at the middle of the curve and one at the tip. These three attachment points hold the curved shape and prevent a large loose loop.
9. Weave every sewing end in two different directions before trimming it.

After attaching each piece, smooth the blanket flat before moving to the next one. If the fabric begins to pucker, remove the most recent stitches and resew them with less tension.

Final Inspection

After assembly, inspect the entire lovey from the front and back.

• ✓ Head is centered and secured with two sewing passes.
• ✓ Head attachment has not gathered the top blanket edge.
• ✓ Ears and muzzle are sewn completely around their attachment edges.
• ✓ Embroidery ends are secured inside the head.
• ✓ Both paws are attached through all 6 closing stitches.
• ✓ Tail is secured at the base, midpoint, and tip without forming a loose loop.
• ✓ Every yarn end is woven in two different directions.
• ✓ Blanket lies flat without puckering.
• ✓ No plastic parts, buttons, beads, ribbons, bells, or loose trim have been added.

The crochet work is complete. The final section covers washing, storage, troubleshooting, supervised baby use, and answers to the questions readers ask most often before making this pattern.

Baby Safety Notes for Crochet Cat Loveys

Use embroidered features only. Do not add plastic safety eyes, buttons, beads, bells, ribbons, snaps, or loose trim to a baby lovey.

This crochet cat lovey is intended for supervised use only. It should not be placed in a crib with a sleeping baby.

Inspect the lovey regularly and before giving it back to a baby after washing. Stop using it if a seam, magic ring, embroidered feature, or yarn end becomes loose, if stuffing is exposed, or if a long yarn loop develops. Repair the damage completely before returning the lovey to supervised use.

For current consumer safety information, visit the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Safety Education page.

For crib setup and safe sleep related information on this site, see Crib Safety Standards.

Washing and Storage

Check the care instructions for the yarn, embroidery floss, and fiberfill, and follow the most restrictive instructions. If all materials permit machine washing, place the lovey in a mesh laundry bag and use a gentle cycle.

After washing, reshape the blanket while damp. Smooth the corners, pat the head back into shape, and allow the lovey to dry flat.

For storage, fold the blanket loosely instead of compressing the cat head. That helps the embroidered face and stuffed head keep their shape.

Troubleshooting the Crochet Cat Lovey Pattern

The blanket is rippling.

Your tension may be too loose around the corners. Try tightening the corner chains slightly or blocking the square before assembly.

The blanket is curling inward.

Your stitches may be too tight. Go up one hook size or loosen the corner chains.

The head looks like a bear.

The ears may be too low or too far apart. Move them slightly higher and angle them outward.

The face looks crowded.

Keep the whiskers short and leave approximately 8 stitches between the inside ends of the eyes.

The head is leaning.

Check that the 2½ to 3 inch curved attachment seam is centered. If needed, remove the seam and sew it again through the lower back of the head and the blanket. Make a second pass across the same attachment area while keeping the blanket flat.

Crochet Cat Lovey Pattern FAQ

I designed this crochet cat lovey pattern to be the kind of project you'll actually want to make again. It has enough detail to look special without becoming fussy, and the finished kitten is soft, lightweight, and easy for little hands to carry. Whether you're making it for a new baby, a grandchild, or a favorite little cat lover, I hope it becomes one of those handmade gifts that stays close long after the baby clothes have been outgrown.