Crochet Raccoon Pattern for a Cute Woodland Animal Baby Gift

By Jan Bay

This crochet raccoon pattern makes a sassy little woodland friend with a broad mask face, raised white muzzle, oversized feet and a thick striped tail. The finished raccoon has plenty of woodland personality and makes a charming baby shower gift, nursery shelf decoration or keepsake.

What This Crochet Raccoon Pattern Makes

Quick answer: This crochet raccoon pattern makes the seated woodland amigurumi forest animal shown in the example image, with a large gray head, smaller rounded body, curved white brow patches, black mask panels, raised white muzzle, pointed ears with black centers and white trim, black paws, oversized black feet and a thick striped tail resting behind the right side.

The finished raccoon measures about 8 inches tall with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. The head is deliberately larger than the body. That scale is what gives the raccoon the baby gift look instead of making it look like a narrow toy animal.

The broad mask and striped tail do most of the visual work. Keep those pieces in scale with the oversized head and feet and the finished animal reads clearly as a raccoon before the smaller details go on.

Fact: This pattern is for a decorative nursery keepsake. The finished raccoon is not a crib or infant sleep item.

This pattern is written in separate pieces because that gives a beginner more control. You will crochet the head, face pieces, body, arms, feet, ears and tail, then pin the whole animal together before sewing. I would rather have a beginner use extra pins than sew a sweet little face one stitch crooked and have to pull it all apart.

For more handmade baby projects, visit my free baby crochet patterns page. If you want a blanket style project after this one, the crochet animal lovey patterns page is the natural next step.

If you want the same mask face and striped tail in a flat decoration instead of a stuffed animal, use my crochet raccoon applique pattern for blankets, banners and nursery decor.

Supplies, Gauge and Size Checks

Materials:

• Gray worsted weight yarn, about 95 yards
• Black worsted weight yarn, about 45 yards
• White worsted weight yarn, about 40 yards
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Black embroidery thread for the eyes, nose and mouth

Measurement note: The dimensions below are expected checkpoints for the written construction, not physically measured sample dimensions. Your finished measurements can vary with yarn, hook size, stuffing and individual tension.

Pattern status: The written instructions have been checked for stitch-count consistency and against the pictured proportions, but this version has not been physically test-crocheted from beginning to end.

Expected finished size: About 8 inches tall seated, 5 inches wide across both feet and about 4 inches deep from belly to tail.

Gauge: About 5 single crochet stitches per inch with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. Gauge does not have to match exactly, but your fabric must be tight enough to hide the stuffing.

Expected part-size checklist before assembly:

• Head: about 3.75 to 4 inches across
• Body: about 3.25 inches tall
• Each arm: about 3 inches long
• Each foot: about 1.75 inches wide at the black front
• Each outer ear: about 1.75 inches tall
• Each black inner ear: about 1.25 inches tall
• Tail: about 3.5 inches long and about 1.5 inches thick
• White muzzle: about 1.5 inches wide
• Black mask panel: about 1.75 inches wide
• White brow patch: about 2 inches long before sewing

Skill level: Advanced beginner. You need magic ring, single crochet, increase, invisible decrease, simple color changes, slip stitch, fastening off and hand sewing.

Abbreviations:

• MR means magic ring
• ch means chain
• sc means single crochet
• inc means 2 single crochet in the same stitch
• dec means invisible single crochet decrease
• sl st means slip stitch
• st means stitch
• R means round
• FO means fasten off

Work in continuous rounds unless the directions say to turn or join. A turning chain does not count as a stitch. Work the first single crochet into the first stitch of each turned row. Move your stitch marker to the first stitch of every round. On small amigurumi pieces, losing track of the first stitch can shift the shaping quickly, so recount the round as soon as the marker no longer lines up.

This page is written as a decorative nursery-keepsake pattern. Keep the facial details embroidered, sew every piece securely and keep the finished raccoon out of the crib during sleep. If you make or sell a version intended as a children's toy in the United States, check the current requirements from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission for that intended use.

Crochet the Large Raccoon Head

Head, make one with gray yarn:

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 st.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 st.
3. R3: sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat around. 18 st.
4. R4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 24 st.
5. R5: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 30 st.
6. R6: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 36 st.
7. R7: sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 42 st.
8. R8: sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 48 st.
9. R9: sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 54 st.
10. R10 through R18: sc in each st around. 54 st.
11. R19: sc in next 7 st, dec, repeat around. 48 st.
12. R20: sc in next 6 st, dec, repeat around. 42 st.
13. R21: sc in next 5 st, dec, repeat around. 36 st.
14. R22: sc in next 4 st, dec, repeat around. 30 st.
15. Begin stuffing. Fill the top and sides first so the head stays round.
16. R23: sc in next 3 st, dec, repeat around. 24 st.
17. R24: sc in next 2 st, dec, repeat around. 18 st.
18. Add more stuffing. The head should feel full but not hard.
19. R25: sc in next st, dec, repeat around. 12 st.
20. R26: dec around. 6 st.
21. FO, leaving a 6 inch tail. Thread through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull closed and weave in.

Head checkpoint: The head should measure about 3.75 to 4 inches across. The closing point will become the lower back of the head. The face goes on the smooth side opposite that closing point.

Make the Curved Raccoon Face

Right white brow patch, make one with white yarn:

1. Ch 10.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
3. Row 2: inc in first st, sc in next 6 st, dec over last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
4. Row 3: sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, dec over last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
5. Row 4: sc in next 7 st, dec over last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. 8 st.
6. Row 5: sc in next 6 st, dec over last 2 st. 7 st.
7. Ch 1. Work 5 sc down the first side, 9 sc across the foundation edge, 5 sc up the second side, then 8 sc across the Row 5 edge, placing 2 sc in the fuller outer corner. 27 edging st. Sl st to the first edging st to join.
8. FO, leaving a 16 inch sewing tail.

Left white brow patch, make one with white yarn:

1. Ch 10.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
3. Row 2: dec over first 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
4. Row 3: dec over first 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 9 st.
5. Row 4: dec over first 2 st, sc in next 7 st. Ch 1, turn. 8 st.
6. Row 5: dec over first 2 st, sc in next 6 st. 7 st.
7. Ch 1. Work 5 sc down the first side, 9 sc across the foundation edge, 5 sc up the second side, then 8 sc across the Row 5 edge, placing 2 sc in the fuller outer corner. 27 edging st. Sl st to the first edging st to join.
8. FO, leaving a 16 inch sewing tail.

Black mask panels, make two with black yarn:

1. Ch 8.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working on the other side of the chain, sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 16 st.
3. R2: inc in first st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in last 2 st. 22 st.
4. R3: sc in each st around. 22 st.
5. Sl st into next st and FO, leaving a 16 inch sewing tail.

White muzzle, make one with white yarn:

1. Ch 6.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working on the other side of the chain, sc in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 12 st.
3. R2: inc in first st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in last 2 st. 18 st.
4. R3: sc in each st around. 18 st.
5. Sl st into next st and FO, leaving a 16 inch sewing tail.

Face placement map:

• Set the head down with the closing point at the lower back.
• The center forehead line is the vertical line halfway between the two eyes.
• White brow patches sit from head R9 down to R17.
• The fuller ends of the brow patches sit high and outward, near the ear area.
• The tapered brow ends angle toward the center forehead and stop 1 to 2 gray stitches apart.
• Black mask panels sit below the brows from head R13 down to R20.
• Each black mask panel should sit lower on the outside edge than on the inside edge.
• The white brow should remain thick and visible above each black panel, like the curved white bands in the example image.
• The muzzle sits centered from head R16 through R21.
• The top edge of the muzzle overlaps the lower inner corners of the black panels.
• Embroidered eyes sit on the black panels between head R14 and R15.
• Leave 6 to 7 stitches between the eyes.

Eyes: Use black embroidery thread and make 4 small satin stitches in the same spot on each black mask panel between head R14 and R15. Leave 6 to 7 stitches between the eyes and keep each eye round rather than tall.

Nose and mouth:

1. Use black embroidery thread.
2. Make a rounded triangle nose at the top center of the muzzle.
3. Work 4 short horizontal stitches, then fill downward with 2 shorter stitches.
4. Make one short vertical stitch below the nose.
5. Add two tiny curved mouth stitches, one on each side.

Do not sew any face piece until all pieces are pinned. Look at the head from straight ahead and from slightly above. The white brow patches should look like curved eyebrows over the black mask, not like plain white ovals.

Crochet the Body, Arms and Feet

Body, make one with gray yarn:

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 st.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 st.
3. R3: sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat around. 18 st.
4. R4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 24 st.
5. R5: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 30 st.
6. R6: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 36 st.
7. R7: sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 42 st.
8. R8: sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 48 st.
9. R9 through R18: sc in each st around. 48 st.
10. R19: sc in next 6 st, dec, repeat around. 42 st.
11. R20: sc in next 5 st, dec, repeat around. 36 st.
12. R21: sc in next 4 st, dec, repeat around. 30 st.
13. Begin stuffing. Add a little extra stuffing to the lower body.
14. R22: sc in next 3 st, dec, repeat around. 24 st.
15. R23: sc in next 2 st, dec, repeat around. 18 st.
16. R24: sc in next st, dec, repeat around. 12 st.
17. Finish stuffing through the 12-stitch opening. Keep the lower body a little fuller than the top, then press and shape the bottom gently flat before the opening gets smaller.
18. R25: dec around. 6 st.
19. FO, close the remaining 6 stitches and weave in.

Body checkpoint: The body should measure about 3.25 inches tall and should be a little narrower than the head. Set it upright and make sure the shaped bottom rests flat without rocking.

Arms, make two:

1. With black yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 st.
2. R2: sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat around. 9 st.
3. R3 through R5: sc in each st around. 9 st.
4. Change to gray yarn.
5. R6 through R14: sc in each st around. 9 st.
6. Stuff the black paw only. Leave the gray arm nearly flat.
7. R15: flatten the opening, placing the unmatched ninth stitch at one side. Sc through both layers across for 4 sc.
8. FO, leaving a 14 inch sewing tail.

Feet, make two:

1. With black yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 st.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 st.
3. R3: sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat around. 18 st.
4. R4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 24 st.
5. R5 through R7: sc in each st around. 24 st.
6. Change to gray yarn.
7. R8: sc in each st around. 24 st.
8. R9: sc in next 2 st, dec, repeat around. 18 st.
9. Stuff the black foot firmly. Add less stuffing to the gray ankle.
10. R10: sc in next st, dec, repeat around. 12 st.
11. Sl st into next st and FO, leaving a 20 inch sewing tail. Leave the 12-stitch gray ankle opening unclosed because the entire opening will be sewn directly to the body during assembly.

The feet should look oversized before they are sewn on. That is correct. The example raccoon has large round black feet facing forward, with gray ankles tucked partly behind them. Those big feet help the animal balance once the large head is attached.

Make the Trimmed Ears and Striped Tail

Outer ears, make two with gray yarn:

1. Ch 2.
2. Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 1, turn. 2 st.
3. Row 2: inc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 4 st.
4. Row 3: inc in first st, sc in next 2 st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 6 st.
5. Row 4: inc in first st, sc in next 4 st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 8 st.
6. Row 5: inc in first st, sc in next 6 st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 10 st.
7. Row 6: sc in each st across. 10 st.
8. Do not fasten off. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of the 6 row ends down the first slanted side, 2 sc across the narrow Row 1 tip, 1 sc in each of the 6 row ends up the second slanted side, then 1 sc in each of the 10 stitches across the Row 6 base. 24 edging st.
9. Sl st to the first edging stitch. FO, leaving a 14 inch sewing tail.

Inner ears, make two with black yarn:

1. Ch 2.
2. Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 1, turn. 2 st.
3. Row 2: inc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 4 st.
4. Row 3: inc in first st, sc in next 2 st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. 6 st.
5. Row 4: sc in each st across. 6 st.
6. FO, leaving a 10 inch sewing tail.

White ear trim clarification:

1. Sew one black inner ear centered on each gray outer ear.
2. Thread white yarn onto a yarn needle.
3. Start at the lower left corner of the black inner ear.
4. Use short whip stitches over the edge of the black inner ear and into the gray outer ear.
5. Work up one side, around the top point and down the other side.
6. Do not stitch across the bottom edge. The hero image shows white trim around the sides and top, not a full white triangle outline.
7. Keep each white stitch close to the black edge so a narrow gray border remains visible outside the trim.
8. Knot and hide the yarn ends on the back of the ear.

Striped tail:

At each color change, begin the final single crochet of the old-color round with the old color, then complete its final yarn-over with the new color. Cut the old yarn, leaving a 4-inch end, and secure the two yarn ends together inside the tail. Do not carry unused yarn along the outside.

1. With black yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 st.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 st.
3. R3: sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat around. 18 st.
4. R4: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, repeat around. 24 st.
5. R5 through R6: sc in each st around with black. 24 st.
6. Change to gray yarn.
7. R7 through R8: sc in each st around with gray. 24 st.
8. Change to black yarn.
9. R9 through R10: sc in each st around with black. 24 st.
10. Change to gray yarn.
11. R11 through R12: sc in each st around with gray. 24 st.
12. Change to black yarn.
13. R13 through R14: sc in each st around with black. 24 st.
14. Change to gray yarn.
15. R15 through R18: sc in each st around with gray. 24 st.
16. Sl st into next st and FO, leaving an 18 inch sewing tail.
17. Stuff the tail lightly. Leave the open end flatter than the rounded tip.

Before finishing the stuffing, check that every color-change end is secured inside the tail and that no carried yarn is visible on the outside.

Beginner Assembly Map

Assembly reference guide showing ear placement, face positioning, tail angle and final proportions for the finished crochet raccoon.

Pin the full raccoon together before sewing so the head, feet and tail balance.

Beginner assembly map:

• Head front: smooth side opposite the closing point
• Head back: closing point at lower back
• Body top: body closing point sits under the head
• Body front: smooth rounded belly faces forward
• Feet: black rounds face forward, gray ankle section touches body
• Arms: black paws point downward and slightly inward
• Tail: attaches to back right side and rests behind the right foot
• Ears: bottom edges sit on head R8 and R9

Assembly order:

1. Sew the white brow patches to the head first. Use small whip stitches through the outer loops of the patch and the surface stitches of the head.
2. Sew the black mask panels below the white brow patches. Keep the white curved edge visible above each black panel.
3. Embroider the eyes now with black embroidery thread, placing them between head R14 and R15 with 6 to 7 stitches between the eyes.
4. Sew the white muzzle centered below the eyes. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing under the muzzle before closing the last few stitches.
5. Embroider the nose and mouth.
6. Pin the ears to the top sides of the head. The bottom edge of each ear should sit around head R8 and R9.
7. The inner edges of the ears should be about 8 stitches apart across the top of the head.
8. Sew through the bottom edge of each ear twice so the ears stand upright.
9. Place the body under the head with the body closing point at the top.
10. Pin the head to the body. The face should tilt slightly forward.
11. Use the 12 stitches of body R24 and the 12 stitches of head R25 as the neck joining guides. Sew through one body R24 stitch and one head R25 stitch at a time for 12 joining stitches around the neck. Repeat the same 12-stitch path a second time with gray yarn for a secure join.
12. Pin the arms to the side front of the body between body R14 and R20.
13. The black paws should hang beside the belly and stop just above the feet.
14. Sew the flattened top of each arm to the body.
15. Pin the feet to the lower front of the body between body R6 and R12.
16. Leave about 5 stitches between the inner edges of the feet.
17. Using the long sewing tail, sew all the way around each 12-stitch gray ankle opening and into the body so no part of the stuffed opening remains exposed. Keep the rounded black section facing forward as you sew.
18. Pin the tail to the back right side of the body between body R8 and R15.
19. Angle the tail about 35 to 45 degrees away from the body so it rests behind the right foot instead of sticking straight back.
20. The lower edge of the tail opening should touch the surface when the raccoon is seated.
21. Sew around the open end of the tail twice.
22. Weave in every yarn end.

Set the raccoon down after sewing the head and again after sewing the feet. If it leans forward, move the feet a little higher. If it falls backward, move the tail lower or remove some stuffing from the tail.

Final check before gifting:

• The head is larger than the body.
• The white brow patches curve over the black mask panels.
• The muzzle is centered and slightly raised.
• The ears stand at the same height.
• The black paws hang evenly.
• The feet sit forward and touch the table.
• The tail rests behind the right side of the body.
• The eyes, nose and mouth are embroidered as written.
• No yarn or embroidery ends are loose.
• Every sewn attachment is secure.
• All straight pins and stitch markers have been removed.

This raccoon pairs well with woodland handmade gifts. The fox crochet pattern makes a good companion animal, while this crochet deer lovey pattern adds a gentle fawn-themed blanket for woodland baby showers and nursery gift baskets. If you'd like a second blanket project, the crochet owl lovey pattern rounds out the collection with another woodland favorite.

If you want to make a raccoon with an attached blanket instead of a seated amigurumi animal, visit my woodland raccoon lovey crochet pattern page to see if it's something you might enjoy making.

Another animal option for a nursery keepsake is my koala lovey crochet pattern, especially for Australian animal themes, eucalyptus colors, and handmade baby gift baskets.

Use the finished raccoon on a dresser, shelf, book ledge or baby photo area. Keep handmade animals, pillows, loose blankets and other extras out of the crib during sleep.

Troubleshooting for Beginners

If the head looks too small: Check that you increased to 54 stitches and worked R10 through R18 even. The head needs those 9 rounds at 54 stitches to match the example image.

If the white brow pieces look like plain ovals: Rotate them so the fuller end sits high and outward, then angle the tapered end down toward the middle of the face.

If the face looks crowded: Move the black mask panels slightly lower and outward. The white brow patches must show above them.

If the raccoon will not sit: The body may be stuffed too firmly at the top. Press the lower body flatter, move the feet closer together and let the tail rest on the surface behind the right side.

If the ears flop: Sew across the bottom edge twice. Add one hidden stitch from the lower back of each ear into the head.

If the tail pulls the raccoon backward: Remove some stuffing from the tail. It should be padded, not packed tight.

Crochet Raccoon FAQ

Is this crochet raccoon pattern beginner friendly?
Yes, for an advanced beginner. The stitches are basic, but the face placement and assembly need careful pinning before sewing.

Can I use safety eyes?
This pattern is written with embroidered eyes. I would keep the facial features embroidered rather than substitute plastic eyes, especially if the finished raccoon could be handled by a child.

Can I make this raccoon into a lovey?
Not by simply attaching this finished head to a blanket. A raccoon lovey needs a compatible blanket base, a planned head attachment and complete joining instructions so the stuffed head remains secure. Use a complete pattern from my crochet animal lovey patterns page rather than improvising the conversion.

Can I use plush yarn?
Yes, but the raccoon will turn out larger and the face pieces will be harder to place. Worsted weight yarn is easier for a first try.

Why does my raccoon not look like the example image?
The most common reason is scale. The head should be larger than the body, the feet should be oversized, and the black mask panels should sit low enough to leave white showing above them.

Can I sell finished raccoons made from this pattern?
You may sell finished raccoons you make from this pattern in small handmade quantities, but that permission applies only to my pattern copyright. If you market the finished raccoon as a children's product or toy in the United States, you are responsible for determining and meeting any applicable CPSC testing, certification, labeling and other product-safety requirements. Do not copy my photos, page text or pattern wording. See the CPSC Online Sellers' Safety Guide.