Free Winter Woodland Raccoon Lovey Crochet Pattern

By Jan Bay

This winter woodland raccoon lovey crochet pattern creates a snuggly raccoon that has a soft gray blanket-style body, charcoal face mask, striped tail and snug black neck warmer that bring out his mischievous personality. That simple black scarf is what lets us know this little forest animal is dressed up for winter.

Smooth Worsted Weight Yarn for This Raccoon Lovey

If you came here looking for a blanket-style woodland raccoon lovey crochet pattern rather than a pattern for a generic stuffed animal, you’re in the right place. This raccoon is built as a true lovey from the beginning, with a draping gray body, a head shaped specifically for the lovey, compact arms, striped tail and a short black cowl that covers the center join. If you want the stuffed version instead, use my free crochet raccoon pattern.

The finished example uses a simple gray, charcoal, cream and black palette. I’m keeping the cowl black because it ties in with the mask, paws and tail without turning the whole thing into a Christmas raccoon.

The measurements below are calculated from the stated gauge. This pattern has not been physically test-crocheted from start to finish, so check your gauge and the measurement checkpoints as you work.

Woodland Raccoon Lovey Crochet Pattern at a Glance

This pattern uses the same basic draping body construction as the coordinated Winter Woodland loveys. The body is worked flat as a 20-inch square in an alternating single crochet and double crochet texture, then finished with one round of single crochet edging. The square stays flat. There’s no gathering at the center.

Once the animal pieces are added, turn the square so one point hangs toward the front. That simple change in direction is what gives the finished lovey the cape-like shape you see in the example image.

The raccoon itself is made separately and assembled over the center of the square. The head is stuffed and dimensional. The arms are small and lightly stuffed. The striped tail sits toward one back side so you can see it without letting its weight pull the blanket out of shape. The black cowl is sewn permanently around the base of the head after the main assembly is finished.

Skill level: Advanced beginner to intermediate

Main techniques: Chains, single crochet, double crochet, increases, invisible decreases, working in continuous rounds, working flat in rows, simple color changes, sewing crochet pieces and embroidery.

Pattern notes: Turning chains do not count as stitches. Unless a section specifically tells you to join, work pieces written in rounds continuously. Mark the first stitch of each continuous round and move the marker up as you finish each round.

Color changes and starting tails: When changing colors, complete the final yarn-over of the last stitch with the new color so the next stitch begins in the new shade. Cut the old color unless the pattern tells you otherwise, and secure the yarn ends inside the piece before stuffing makes them difficult to reach. After starting a piece with a magic ring, pull the ring firmly closed and weave the starting tail back through several stitches on the inside before trimming it.

Pieces before assembly: 15 crocheted pieces total: 1 lovey body, 1 head, 2 charcoal mask panels, 2 cream brow strips, 1 cream muzzle, 2 gray outer ears, 2 charcoal inner ears, 2 arms, 1 striped tail and 1 black cowl.

Materials

• Smooth medium worsted weight #4 yarn in medium gray, approximately 600 to 700 yards
• Smooth medium worsted weight #4 yarn in charcoal, approximately 90 to 110 yards
• Smooth medium worsted weight #4 yarn in warm cream, approximately 35 to 45 yards
• Smooth medium worsted weight #4 yarn in black, approximately 30 to 40 yards
• 4 mm crochet hook for the lovey body
• 3.5 mm crochet hook for the head, face pieces, ears, arms and tail
• 4 mm crochet hook for the black cowl
• Polyester fiberfill, approximately 3 to 4 ounces
• Black embroidery floss for the eyes and nose
• White embroidery floss for one small highlight stitch in each eye
• Yarn needle
• Embroidery needle
• Removable stitch markers
• Straight pins or locking stitch markers for assembly
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

The yarn amounts are estimates rather than measurements from a physically completed sample. I’d rather have a little gray left over than come up short near the end, especially since the body, head, arms, outer ears and part of the striped tail all use it.

Gauge and Finished Size

Lovey body gauge: 16 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in the alternating single crochet and double crochet pattern with the 4 mm hook.

Small-piece gauge: About 18 single crochet stitches and 20 rows or rounds = 4 inches with the 3.5 mm hook, measured on firm single crochet fabric. If your gauge is looser, use a smaller hook so the stuffing does not show through.

Lovey body before edging: approximately 20 inches square.

Lovey body after edging: approximately 20 1/2 inches square.

Expected finished raccoon lovey: approximately 19 1/2 to 20 1/2 inches from the top of the ears to the lowest blanket point when the body is hanging naturally. The final hanging measurement can vary a little because the square is meant to drape rather than lie stiff and flat.

Check the body gauge before you continue. An 80-stitch row at the stated gauge should measure about 20 inches. If yours is several inches wider or narrower, changing the hook now is much easier than trying to correct the proportions after the head and tail are attached.

Crochet the Lovey Body

Use medium gray yarn and the 4 mm hook.

The body uses an even stitch count. After the first row, every row begins with a single crochet and ends with a double crochet. Once you turn, each single crochet falls over a double crochet from the row below and each double crochet falls over a single crochet. That gives the fabric its small pebbled texture without bobbles or raised clusters.

Chain 81.

Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. 80 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 1. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. Single crochet in the first stitch, double crochet in the next stitch. Repeat from the beginning of the row across. Turn. 80 stitches.

Rows 3 through 80: Repeat Row 2. Keep 80 stitches in every row.

After Row 80, the body should measure approximately 20 inches wide by 20 inches long at the stated gauge.

Do not fasten off.

Single Crochet Border

The border is one round of single crochet with 3 single crochets in each corner. The finished round contains 324 stitches total.

Border Round: Chain 1. Work 3 single crochets in the first corner stitch. Work 1 single crochet in each of the next 78 stitches across the top edge. Work 3 single crochets in the next corner.

Continue down the side by working 1 single crochet evenly into each of the next 78 row ends. Work 3 single crochets in the bottom corner.

Work 1 single crochet in each of the next 78 foundation-chain stitches across the bottom edge. Work 3 single crochets in the next corner.

Work 1 single crochet evenly into each of the remaining 78 row ends up the final side. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet of the beginning corner. 324 stitches.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Body checkpoint: Lay the square flat without stretching it. It should measure about 20 1/2 inches square after the border. The edges should lie flat rather than ruffle or pull inward.

Do not gather the center, fold the square or add a separate torso. The raccoon head and arms will be sewn directly over the center area later. When the finished lovey is displayed, turn the square so one corner points forward and the other three points fall naturally around it.

Crochet the Raccoon Head

Use medium gray yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds and mark the first stitch of every round.

The head is made specifically for this lovey. It has enough width for the broad raccoon mask and cream muzzle shown in the finished example, but it still sits comfortably over the center of the draping body.

Round 1: Make 6 single crochets in a magic ring. 6 stitches.

Round 2: Work 2 single crochets in each stitch around. 12 stitches.

Round 3: Single crochet in the next stitch, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 18 stitches.

Round 4: Single crochet in the next 2 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 24 stitches.

Round 5: Single crochet in the next 3 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 30 stitches.

Round 6: Single crochet in the next 4 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 36 stitches.

Round 7: Single crochet in the next 5 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 42 stitches.

Round 8: Single crochet in the next 6 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 48 stitches.

Round 9: Single crochet in the next 7 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 54 stitches.

Round 10: Single crochet in the next 8 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 60 stitches.

Round 11: Single crochet in the next 9 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 66 stitches.

Rounds 12 through 18: Single crochet in each stitch around. 66 stitches.

Round 19: Single crochet in the next 9 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 60 stitches.

Round 20: Single crochet in the next 8 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 54 stitches.

Round 21: Single crochet in the next 7 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 48 stitches.

Round 22: Single crochet in the next 6 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 42 stitches.

Round 23: Single crochet in the next 5 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 36 stitches.

Round 24: Single crochet in the next 4 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 30 stitches.

Round 25: Single crochet in the next 3 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 24 stitches.

Do not close the opening. Fasten off, leaving about 24 inches of yarn for attaching the head later.

Head checkpoint: At the stated small-piece gauge, the stuffed head should be approximately 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 inches across at its widest point and about 4 1/2 inches from the top center to the open neck edge before the ears are attached. These are calculated checkpoints rather than measurements from a physically test-crocheted sample.

Put enough fiberfill into the head to hold the rounded shape while you position the face, but leave the lower inch fairly soft for now. You’ll finish stuffing after the mask, muzzle and ears are attached.

Make the Raccoon Mask and Cream Muzzle

The mask is what keeps this from turning into a generic gray woodland animal. Make two separate charcoal panels rather than one wide band across the face. The cream muzzle overlaps the lower inner corners just a little.

Charcoal Mask Panel, make 2

Use charcoal yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Chain 6.

Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each remaining chain. Turn. 5 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch, single crochet in the next 3 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch. Turn. 7 stitches.

Row 3: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch, single crochet in the next 5 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch. Turn. 9 stitches.

Row 4: Chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch across. Turn. 9 stitches.

Row 5: Chain 1. Single crochet 2 stitches together, single crochet in the next 5 stitches, single crochet the last 2 stitches together. Turn. 7 stitches.

Row 6: Chain 1. Single crochet 2 stitches together, single crochet in the next 3 stitches, single crochet the last 2 stitches together. 5 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. At the stated small-piece gauge, each panel should be about 2 inches wide and about 1 1/4 inches high.

Cream Brow Strips, make 2

Use warm cream yarn.

Chain 10. Slip stitch in the second chain from the hook and in the next chain. Single crochet in each of the next 5 chains. Slip stitch in each of the last 2 chains. Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

Each strip has 9 worked stitches. The slip stitches make the ends narrower so you can bend the strip into the soft curve shown above each dark mask panel.

Cream Muzzle

Use warm cream yarn and work around both sides of the foundation chain.

Chain 6.

Round 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each of the next 3 chains. Work 3 single crochets in the last chain. Continue along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain. Single crochet in each of the next 3 loops. Work 2 single crochets in the final loop. 12 stitches.

Round 2: Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch. Single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches. Work 2 single crochets in each of the next 3 stitches. Single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches. Work 2 single crochets in each of the last 2 stitches. 18 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. The finished muzzle should be approximately 2 to 2 1/4 inches wide.

Place the Mask Before You Sew

Place removable stitch markers in a straight line down the front center of the head, beginning at the magic-ring center and continuing toward the neck opening. Use that line to keep both sides even.

Pin the two charcoal panels across approximately Rounds 12 through 17. Place the inner edge of each panel about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the centerline. The widest part of each panel should run horizontally.

The eye centers will sit about 3/4 inch to either side of the centerline, giving you about 1 1/2 inches between the eyes.

Pin the cream muzzle over approximately Rounds 16 through 20. Center it on the marked line and let its upper corners overlap the lower inside corners of the charcoal panels by about 1/4 inch.

Now place one cream brow strip along the upper edge of each charcoal panel. Curve the strip gently from near the centerline toward the outer upper corner of the mask. You should still see plenty of charcoal below it.

Look at the face straight on before sewing anything down. The muzzle should be centered, both dark panels should sit at the same height, and the cream brows should mirror each other.

Once the placement is correct, leave the face pieces pinned in position and remove every removable centerline stitch marker before you begin sewing.

Using each piece’s sewing tail, whipstitch all the way around the outer edge of each charcoal mask panel. Sew all the way around the outer edge of the cream muzzle next. Then sew each cream brow strip along its full length, securing both ends. Keep the stitches small and even and bury all yarn ends inside the head.

Crochet the Ears and Embroider the Eyes

The ears have gray outer pieces with smaller charcoal centers. They’re flat and unstuffed, which keeps them close to the compact head in the example image.

Gray Outer Ear, make 2

Use medium gray yarn.

Chain 2.

Row 1: Work 2 single crochets in the second chain from the hook. Turn. 2 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in each stitch. Turn. 4 stitches.

Row 3: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch, single crochet in the next 2 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch. Turn. 6 stitches.

Row 4: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch, single crochet in the next 4 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch. Turn. 8 stitches.

Row 5: Chain 1. Single crochet in each stitch across. 8 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

Charcoal Inner Ear, make 2

Chain 2.

Row 1: Work 2 single crochets in the second chain from the hook. Turn. 2 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in each stitch. Turn. 4 stitches.

Row 3: Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets in the first stitch, single crochet in the next 2 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch. 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving about 12 inches of yarn for sewing the inner ear to the gray outer ear.

Center one charcoal piece on each gray ear, leaving an even gray margin around the sides and point. Using the 12-inch charcoal sewing tail, whipstitch around the complete outer edge of the charcoal piece so it lies flat against the gray ear. Weave the remaining tail securely through the back of the gray ear.

Pin the finished ears high on the head. Each base should sit roughly across Rounds 5 through 9. Place them the same distance from the front centerline and angle the points slightly outward.

Before sewing, look at the head straight on again. If one ear looks taller, fix it now.

Sew across the full base of each ear. Then take a second pass along the base seam for reinforcement.

Black Embroidered Eyes With White Highlights

Use black embroidery floss for the eyes. Do not use plastic safety eyes.

Center each eye on its charcoal mask panel about 3/4 inch from the face centerline. The two eye centers should be approximately 1 1/2 inches apart.

Build each eye with several short satin stitches until you have a small black oval about 3/8 inch high. Keep both eyes the same size.

Thread the embroidery needle with white floss and add one tiny straight stitch near the upper outer part of each black eye. Keep the white mark small. It’s only there to make the little highlight you see in the finished raccoon.

Use black floss to satin stitch a small horizontal oval nose in the upper center of the cream muzzle, about 3/8 inch wide. Keep the nose compact rather than letting it cover the whole muzzle.

Before you finish stuffing the head, secure the black and white embroidery floss ends on the inside with several small locking stitches and trim the excess. No loose embroidery ends should remain on the outside of the head.

Finish stuffing the head now. Fill the upper and middle head evenly, but don’t make it hard. Leave the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch near the neck opening a little softer so the head can sit neatly on the lovey body.

Crochet the Small Raccoon Arms and Paws

Make two. The charcoal paw is worked first, then the arm changes to gray. These are deliberately short. Long hanging arms would change the silhouette of the finished raccoon.

Use the 3.5 mm hook and begin with charcoal yarn.

Round 1: Make 6 single crochets in a magic ring. 6 stitches.

Round 2: Work 2 single crochets in each stitch around. 12 stitches.

Round 3: Single crochet in the next stitch, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 18 stitches.

Rounds 4 through 8: Single crochet in each stitch around. 18 stitches.

Round 9: Single crochet in the next 4 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat 3 times. 15 stitches.

Round 10: Single crochet in each stitch around. 15 stitches.

Change to medium gray yarn.

Rounds 11 through 13: Single crochet in each stitch around. 15 stitches.

Round 14: Single crochet in the next 3 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat 3 times. 12 stitches.

Round 15: Single crochet in each stitch around. 12 stitches.

Add a small amount of fiberfill to the paw and lower part of the arm. Leave the upper inch unstuffed so the arm can lie naturally against the draping body.

Flatten the opening. Working through both layers, single crochet across the opening to close it. 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving about 18 inches of yarn for sewing.

Arm checkpoint: Each finished arm should be about 3 to 3 1/4 inches long, with charcoal forming the rounded paw and lower arm and medium gray forming the short upper section.

Crochet the Gray and Charcoal Striped Raccoon Tail

The tail needs enough shape to read clearly as a raccoon tail, but it shouldn’t be packed so firmly that it pulls one side of the lovey down. Keep the stuffing light.

Use the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds.

Rounds 1 through 5, charcoal

Round 1: Make 6 single crochets in a magic ring. 6 stitches.

Round 2: Work 2 single crochets in each stitch around. 12 stitches.

Round 3: Single crochet in the next stitch, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 18 stitches.

Round 4: Single crochet in the next 2 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat around. 24 stitches.

Round 5: Single crochet in each stitch around. 24 stitches.

Change to medium gray.

Rounds 6 through 10: Single crochet in each stitch around. 24 stitches.

Begin adding a small amount of fiberfill through the open end. Continue adding it lightly every few rounds as the tail grows. Keep the tail flexible rather than packing it firmly.

Change to charcoal.

Rounds 11 through 15: Single crochet in each stitch around. 24 stitches.

Change to medium gray.

Rounds 16 through 20: Single crochet in each stitch around. 24 stitches.

Change to charcoal.

Rounds 21 through 25: Single crochet in each stitch around. 24 stitches.

Round 26: Single crochet in the next 2 stitches, invisible decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat around. 18 stitches.

Round 27: Single crochet in each stitch around. 18 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch charcoal tail for sewing.

Tail checkpoint: At the stated small-piece gauge, the tail should be approximately 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inches long and about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches across at the widest point. It should remain bendable and should flatten slightly when you press it.

If the finished tail feels heavy in your hand, take some stuffing back out before assembly. The gray blanket body should support it without one corner being pulled noticeably higher than the others.

Crochet the Short Black Winter Cowl

Use black yarn and the 4 mm hook.

The cowl is a short ribbed strip that wraps around the neck after the raccoon is assembled. It’s permanently sewn in place. There are no ties, buttons or loose ends.

Chain 7.

Row 1: Half double crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. 6 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 1. Half double crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. Turn. 6 stitches.

Rows 3 through 30: Repeat Row 2. 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving about 18 inches for sewing.

At approximately 17 rows per 4 inches, the strip should measure about 7 inches long and roughly 1 1/2 inches wide.

Don’t join the short ends yet. It’s easier to get a neat fit by wrapping the finished strip around the assembled neck first.

Raccoon Lovey Crochet Pattern Assembly

Lay the finished gray body flat as a diamond, with one corner pointing toward you. That corner is the front. The opposite corner is the back.

The textured body is reversible, so either face can be the front. Choose the side you prefer now and keep that choice consistent whenever the assembly instructions refer to the front surface or back surface.

Mark the exact center of the square with a removable stitch marker.

1. Attach the Tail

The tail sits on the viewer’s right side when you look at the finished lovey from the front.

With the front surface of the body facing up and the front point toward you, place a removable stitch marker approximately 3 inches to the right of the body center and about 1 1/2 inches toward the back corner. This marks the center of the tail attachment.

Flip the body over so the back surface faces up, keeping the marker in place. Center the open tail base over the marker and angle the tail outward toward the nearest side edge so the stripes will remain visible beside the finished lovey.

Pin or clip the tail base temporarily in place. Before sewing, turn the body front side up and lift it by the center. Confirm that the tail appears on the viewer’s right and does not pull that side of the blanket noticeably lower. If it does, remove a little stuffing now. Then return the body to the back-side-up position without changing the marked tail placement.

Keep the tail base secured with the pins or clips and remove the tail-placement stitch marker before you begin sewing the base to the blanket.

Using the 24-inch charcoal sewing tail, sew all 18 stitches around the open tail base securely to the blanket fabric. Use small stitches and catch the body stitches rather than splitting individual yarn strands.

After the base is secure, run the needle through the back of the blanket stitches toward a point about 2 inches out from the tail base. Add one loose hidden tack between the underside of the tail and the back of the lovey body. The tack should hold the tail in view without pulling it flat. Bring the needle back to the underside and weave in the remaining yarn securely.

2. Attach the Head

Flip the body so the front surface faces up again and return it to the diamond position with the front point toward you.

Center the 24-stitch neck opening directly over the center marker. Turn the head so the face points toward the front corner.

Spread the 24 neck stitches into an even circle roughly 1 3/4 to 2 inches across. Pin or clip the opening securely to the body.

Once the head is centered and securely pinned or clipped, remove the center stitch marker from beneath the neck opening before you begin sewing the head to the body.

Using the long gray tail from the head, sew through each neck stitch and take a small bite of the lovey body directly beneath it. Continue all the way around.

Go around the attachment a second time, placing the reinforcing stitches just outside the first seam. You shouldn’t be able to lift the head away from the body at any point around the circle.

3. Attach the Arms

Place one arm on each side of the head. The flattened 6-stitch top of each arm should sit just under the lower side of the head attachment.

Angle the arms slightly downward and outward. The charcoal paws should remain clearly visible from the front.

Sew the entire flattened top edge of each arm to the body. Then take a second pass through the same attachment area.

Do not sew the full length of the arm down. The lower portion should remain free so it can move with the blanket.

4. Add the Black Cowl

Wrap the black ribbed strip around the base of the head, covering the head seam and the upper ends of the arm attachments.

Bring the two short ends together at the back. The cowl should fit close without squeezing or distorting the neck. If your row gauge matches the pattern, the 30-row strip should give you enough length for a neat back seam.

Whipstitch the short ends together securely.

Using the remaining black sewing tail, tack the lower edge of the cowl to the lovey at four places: front center, back center and once at each side. Travel through the inside of the cowl between tacks so the yarn stays hidden. Add two more small tacks between those points if the cowl shifts when the lovey is handled. If the remaining tail is too short, use a separate length of black yarn.

The cowl is not removable.

5. Final Shape Check

Hold the lovey by the center under the head and let the gray square fall naturally. The front point should hang below the raccoon, the side points should drape evenly and the striped tail should remain visible on one side.

Look at the face straight on. Check that the mask is level, the muzzle is centered, the ears match, and the white eye highlights are tiny rather than dominating the eyes.

Now check every sewn piece with a gentle tug. Head, outer and inner ears, mask panels, cream brow strips, muzzle, arms, cowl and tail should all stay firmly in place. Weave in any remaining yarn tails securely. Remove every straight pin, clip and removable stitch marker before the lovey is used.

Care and Baby Safety

This raccoon lovey uses embroidered eyes and nose rather than plastic eyes, buttons or beads. The cowl is permanently attached and there are no long scarf ends, tassels, bells or other loose trim.

Check the seams and embroidery before each use, especially around the head, ears and tail. Stop using the lovey if yarn breaks, stuffing becomes exposed or any attached piece loosens.

Follow the care instructions for the yarn you choose. If you aren’t sure how the finished yarn will respond to machine washing, hand wash the lovey in cool water, press out excess water without twisting it, reshape it and let it dry completely.

This is a soft handmade lovey for supervised awake use. Keep it out of an infant’s crib, bassinet, play yard or other sleep space. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends a bare infant sleep space with only a fitted sheet. You can read the current CPSC safe sleep guidance.

Embroidered features remove small plastic eye pieces from this project, but they do not make a soft lovey appropriate for infant sleep.

Raccoon Lovey FAQ

Is this the same pattern as the stuffed crochet raccoon?

No. The stuffed crochet raccoon is a seated amigurumi with a completely stuffed body and a different head proportion. This pattern was built as a blanket-style lovey with its own head construction, center attachment, short arms and lightly stuffed striped tail.

Can I use safety eyes instead of embroidered eyes?

I wouldn’t for this version. The finished example is designed with black embroidered eyes and one tiny white highlight stitch in each eye. That keeps the face close to the project shown and avoids adding removable plastic eye pieces to a baby-oriented lovey.

Can I leave the black cowl off?

You can, but it will change the finished design and expose more of the head and arm attachment area. The short black cowl is part of the Winter Woodland raccoon shown here, and I’d keep it.

Can I make the striped tail completely unstuffed?

You could, but it won’t have the rounded striped shape shown in the example. For this version, use just enough fiberfill to give the tail form while keeping it soft enough to bend and drape.

Can I use plush or chenille yarn?

You would need to recalculate the finished size and probably the hook size. The mask pieces, cream brows and small embroidered face are easier to control in smooth worsted-weight yarn, and that visible stitch texture is part of this Winter Woodland collection.

Has this pattern been physically test-crocheted?

No. The stitch counts, proportions and measurements are calculated to reproduce the finished example, but the instructions have not been physically crocheted from beginning to end. Check the stated gauge and measurement checkpoints as you work.

If you’d like another animal in the same draping style, browse the free crochet animal lovey patterns collection.