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By Jan Bay
This free crochet bat lovey pattern makes a cute Halloween baby snuggler with a lightly stuffed bat head, pointed ears, wide wings and an attached security blanket body. The embroidered face keeps the bat friendly, while the simple shapes make each part easy to see and assemble.
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Jump to the Crochet Bat Lovey Instructions
This bat lovey combines a simple square blanket with a small bat head, two pointed ears and a pair of shaped wings. The head is lightly stuffed, but the blanket and wings stay flat and flexible.
The pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. A confident beginner who is comfortable working in rounds, increasing, decreasing and sewing pieces together should be able to follow it.
Pattern Details
The finished size may change a little depending on your yarn, hook and tension. A slightly smaller hook can help the stuffed head hold its shape, while the blanket should still feel soft enough to drape.
Laying the finished lovey flat makes it easier to check that the head and wings are centered before the final stitches are secured.
The bat can be made in black, charcoal, deep purple, plum or midnight blue. Lighter gray facial embroidery and a few inner-ear stitches can add contrast without changing the simple shape of the design.
A smooth worsted-weight yarn gives the bat enough shape without making the blanket stiff. Choose a washable yarn that does not shed fibers easily. Plain acrylic, cotton-acrylic blends and soft washable wool blends can all work well.
Very fuzzy yarn can hide the stitches and make the wings harder to shape. It also makes embroidered facial features less clear, so I would save chenille, eyelash yarn and loose novelty fibers for a different project.
Materials List
The two hook sizes serve different jobs. The larger hook gives the blanket a softer drape. The smaller hook creates tighter stitches around the stuffing and helps the head keep a neat rounded shape.
For a classic Halloween bat, use charcoal or black for the head and wings with a deep purple blanket. A softer nursery version could pair smoky gray with plum, navy with lavender, or dark brown with muted rust.
Using a slightly smaller hook for the stuffed pieces helps prevent gaps between the stitches.
Check the yarn label before beginning so you know how the finished piece should be washed. Mixing yarns with very different care instructions can make cleaning the completed lovey more difficult.
Read through the abbreviations before starting, especially if this is your first project with separate pieces. The blanket is worked in joined rounds, while the bat head is worked in continuous rounds without turning.
U.S. Crochet Abbreviations
Exact gauge is not critical for this project, but the stitches on the head should be tight enough that the fiberfill does not show through.
Make a small swatch if your yarn is much thicker or thinner than a typical category 4 yarn. A loose head can be corrected by moving down one hook size. If the blanket feels firm instead of flexible, move up one hook size for the blanket only.
Count the stitches at the end of every shaping round. A missed increase or decrease can tilt the face or leave one side of the head fuller than the other.
The blanket begins in the center and grows outward in joined rounds. The corner spaces keep the square shape clear, so there is no need to measure or mark four separate sides as you work.
Use the 4.5 mm hook and the main blanket color. The beginning chain counts as the first double crochet stitch in every round. Work all blanket rounds without turning. The side facing you as you crochet is the right side of the blanket.
You should now have four groups of 3 double crochet stitches with a chain-2 corner space between each group.
Round 1 stitch count: 12 double crochet stitches and four chain-2 corner spaces.
Round 2 stitch count: 28 double crochet stitches and four chain-2 corner spaces.
Each round also has four chain-2 corner spaces.
Continue until the square measures about 15 to 15 1/2 inches along one straight side after a complete round. Do not measure diagonally from corner to corner. At the suggested gauge, Round 13 or Round 14 should be close, but measure your actual blanket before adding the border.
Continue with the blanket color or change to the bat color.
Border count: Work 1 single crochet in every double crochet stitch from the final blanket round, plus 16 single crochet stitches placed in the four corners. You will also have four chain-1 corner spaces. If you stop after Round 13, the border will have 220 single crochet stitches and four chain-1 spaces. If you stop after Round 14, the border will have 236 single crochet stitches and four chain-1 spaces.
Lay the blanket flat and smooth the corners with your hands. Light blocking can help straighten the edges, but avoid stretching the square larger than its natural size.
Set the finished blanket aside while you crochet the head and other bat pieces. The center of the square will later support the head, so place a removable stitch marker there before beginning assembly.
The bat head is worked from the top down in continuous rounds. Use the 4.0 mm hook and the main bat color. Keep the stitches firm and even so the filling stays hidden.
Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Do not join or turn unless the pattern says to do so.
Fasten off and leave a yarn tail at least 24 inches long. Leave the 12-stitch opening at the bottom of the head unclosed. This opening gives you a flatter base for attaching the head to the blanket.
Add the face before stuffing the head. It is much easier to guide the yarn needle through the stitches while the opening is still clear.
A simple face suits this bat better than a cluster of tiny details. The ears and wings will give it plenty of character once all the pieces are together.
Add small pieces of fiberfill a little at a time. Shape the top and sides with your fingers as you work. The head should feel soft and rounded, not packed tightly.
Keep the filling slightly lighter near the open base. That lower section will be pressed against the blanket during assembly, and a softer base makes it easier to sew the head in place without leaving a hard lump beneath it.
The ears are made as two small flat triangles. They begin at the pointed tip and widen toward the base, which makes it easy to adjust their position before sewing them to the head.
Use the 4.0 mm hook and the main bat color. Turn at the end of each row.
Fasten off and leave a yarn tail about 15 inches long for sewing. Repeat the instructions to make the second ear.
Pinching the base gives each ear a gentle cup instead of leaving it completely flat. Do not fold the base tightly. A shallow curve is enough to help the ears stand away from the head.
Place the ears between Rounds 3 and 7 of the head, with about 5 stitches between their inner edges. Angle the pointed tips slightly outward.
Hold the ears in place with locking stitch markers and look at the face from the front. Move either ear before sewing if the spacing makes the head look lopsided.
Pin the ears in place and check the spacing from the front before sewing through the bases.
The ears do not need stuffing. Keeping them flat and lightly curved makes the finished head softer and prevents the tips from becoming bulky.
The wings below are sized for this lovey. If you need a choice of proportions for appliqués, costumes or other projects, use the separate crochet bat wings pattern in three sizes.
Each wing begins with a narrow inner edge and widens as the rows grow. Three small points along the outer edge give the piece a clear bat-wing shape without adding difficult stitch work.
Use the 4.0 mm hook and the main bat color. Make two identical wings, then turn one over during assembly so the pair faces in opposite directions.
Chain 1 and turn. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
You should have three pointed sections across the wide outer edge. The side facing you after completing this shaping row is the right side of the wing. Fasten off and weave in this yarn tail.
Place the wing with the right side facing up. Join the yarn at the outer end of the slanted upper edge.
Turn one completed wing over so the two narrow foundation edges face each other. The long sewing tail on each wing should now be beside the head when the pieces are arranged on the blanket.
Turn one finished wing over so the two narrow attachment edges face the center of the lovey.
A little curl at the pointed edge is fine and may relax after assembly. Do not stretch the points sharply during blocking, or the wing may become much wider than the other one.
Take a few minutes to arrange every piece before threading the yarn needle. Small placement changes can make the bat look cheerful, sleepy or slightly crooked, so it helps to view the whole lovey from above before sewing anything down.
The head should sit on top of the blanket rather than sinking into it. Add a small amount of fiberfill if the lower part looks hollow, but keep the base soft enough to flatten against the crochet fabric.
Run your fingers around the base when you finish. There should be no open spaces where a finger could slip between the head and the blanket.
Place one wing on each side of the head with the pointed edges facing outward. The narrow foundation edge of each wing should sit close to the head, while the wider portion spreads across the blanket.
The wings do not need to match stitch for stitch when placed on the blanket, but their highest points should sit at about the same level.
Pin the head and both wings in place, then view the lovey from above before making the final stitches.
Give the completed lovey a gentle shake and smooth it flat again. The head should remain centered, the ears should keep their shape and the free wing points should rest softly over the blanket.
A black bat is the obvious Halloween choice, but it is not the only one. Charcoal, dark plum, navy and warm brown can make the shape easier to see while keeping the little bat suitably shadowy.
For more contrast, crochet the blanket in a lighter shade and save the darkest yarn for the head, ears and wings. A lavender blanket with a charcoal bat feels playful, while rust and deep brown give the project a softer fall look.
Color Combinations to Try
A contrasting border can pull the two colors together. Work the blanket in plum, add a charcoal border, then use the same charcoal yarn for the head and wings.
Add more blanket rounds for a larger square or stop earlier for a small comfort cloth. Keep in mind that changing the blanket size does not change the head or wing instructions.
Closed embroidered eyes give the bat a sleepy face. Small curved eyes create a cheerful look, while two short straight stitches can make the expression very simple.
Keep the embroidery compact and place it before stuffing the head. A face with too many stitches can pull the crochet fabric inward and change the round shape.
For a little extra contrast, embroider a narrow triangle inside each ear with the blanket color. Use two or three loose stitches and avoid pulling them tight.
You can also leave the ears plain. The pointed shape is clear without another layer of crochet, and the flatter ears stay soft against the head.
Dark plum, charcoal, navy and rust all keep the bat shape clear without limiting the project to solid black.
For another seasonal baby project, the crochet pumpkin lovey pattern uses the same friendly blanket-and-head format with a completely different shape. The free crochet ghost pattern is another playful choice for a handmade Halloween collection.
The pattern is best for a confident beginner who already knows how to make basic stitches and work in rounds. The blanket uses repeated double crochet rounds, while the head requires simple increases and invisible decreases.
The wings look more detailed than they are. Each one begins as a small triangle, followed by a shaping row that forms the three points.
You can change the yarn, but the stitch counts were written for worsted-weight yarn. Bulky yarn will make every piece larger and may leave the head much bigger than the blanket center.
Chenille yarn can also make the wing points less defined. Smooth category 4 yarn is the easier choice when you want the ears, face and wing edges to show clearly.
Move down one hook size and keep the stitches slightly firmer. Add the fiberfill in small pieces rather than pushing one large clump into the head.
Dark stuffing can be used behind very dark yarn if tiny spaces remain visible, but tighter crochet fabric is the better fix. Do not pack in extra filling because that can stretch the spaces even wider.
A slight curl along the pointed edge is normal before assembly. Smooth the wings with your hands, pin them flat and allow them to rest before sewing.
If they curl tightly, your shaping-row tension may be firmer than the earlier rows. Remake that row with a relaxed grip or use a hook one size larger for the pointed edge only.
The blanket and head can be joined without the separate wings, but the finished piece may not be easy to recognize as a bat. A smaller pair of wings is a better choice when you want a simpler design.
For a smaller pair of wings, stop after Row 4 with 9 stitches. Chain 1 and turn. Work the following sequence three times: 1 single crochet in the next stitch, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, chain 2 and slip stitch in the second chain from the hook, then work 1 single crochet in the next stitch. This uses all 9 stitches and creates three smaller points. Join the yarn at the outer end of the upper edge and work 4 single crochet stitches toward the narrow foundation edge, placing 1 single crochet in each of the 4 row ends. Fasten off and leave a 24-inch tail for assembly.
Follow the care directions printed on the yarn label. Place the lovey in a mesh laundry bag before washing to help protect the ears and wing points.
Check the head, ears, embroidery and attached wing edges after every wash. Allow the stuffed head to dry fully before the lovey is used again.
This handmade lovey is not an infant sleep product and should not be left in a crib, bassinet or play yard while a baby sleeps. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends keeping an infant sleep space bare except for a fitted sheet.
Use the lovey during supervised awake time, then store it outside the sleep space. You can read the current CPSC safe sleep guidance for more information.
Before selling a handmade item for babies or children, check the product rules, labeling requirements and other laws that apply where you live and sell. Requirements can vary by location and by the materials used.
Keep your yarn labels and supply records, and inspect every finished piece carefully. This free pattern provides crochet instructions, but it does not certify the finished item for commercial sale.
This little bat fits nicely into a group of handmade fall projects, but it can also stand on its own as a baby shower gift or a first Halloween keepsake. Changing the blanket color makes it easy to move from a bold holiday look to something softer for a nursery.
Compare the bat with five more cute spooky crochet projects, including the friendly ghost, pumpkin, spider, black cat and candy corn loveys.
Browse the crochet animal lovey patterns for more blanket-and-character projects made with familiar stitches. The larger free baby crochet patterns collection includes blankets, baskets, toys and other useful handmade ideas.
For another fall project, try the pumpkin crochet blanket pattern. It pairs well with the bat lovey when you want two seasonal pieces that do not look exactly alike.
The Halloween baby shower ideas page has more ways to use bats, pumpkins and friendly ghosts in decorations, food tables and party details without making the celebration feel too spooky.
Before putting the finished lovey away, check the sewn edges one final time and smooth the blanket flat. Then tuck the yarn labels with your craft notes so the washing instructions are easy to find later.
There is always room for one more soft little creature in the yarn basket.
Return to the free baby patterns page to explore more crochet, sewing and handmade baby projects.
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