Free Crochet Bat Applique Pattern

By Jan Bay

This free crochet bat applique pattern makes a complete flat bat with a small round head, pointed ears, tapered body and a pair of shaped wings. The finished bat can be sewn onto blankets, costumes, clothes, tote bags, banners, wall hangings and other handmade Halloween projects where a stuffed bat lovey wouldn't "fly".

See Crochet Yarn and Supplies for This Bat Applique

Supplies for the Crochet Bat Applique Pattern

You don't need much yarn for this little bat. I'd use a smooth worsted weight yarn rather than anything fuzzy because the pointed ears and lower edges of the wings need to stay easy to see.

• Worsted weight, Category 4 yarn in black, charcoal, deep plum or another bat color; one small partial skein is enough for the applique, with exact yardage depending on the yarn and your tension
• 4.0 mm crochet hook
• Small amount of black embroidery floss for the eyes if you are using a lighter bat color
• Yarn needle
• Embroidery needle, if needed for the facial details
• Scissors
• Rust-resistant blocking pins
• Blocking mat or another suitable pinning surface

A smooth cotton, cotton blend or acrylic yarn can all work here. Keep the fabric fairly firm. If the stitches are loose enough that the little wing points flop over, go down a hook size rather than trying to fix the shape after the bat is assembled.

The complete bat uses four separate crocheted pieces: one head, one tapered body and two matching wings. The pointed ears are crocheted directly onto the head, so there aren't two tiny ear pieces to sew on later.

This pattern uses standard U.S. crochet terminology. If you need to check an abbreviation, the Craft Yarn Council crochet abbreviations page has the standard stitch terms and abbreviations used in crochet patterns.

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
• hdc = half double crochet
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches

The beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch unless the instructions specifically say otherwise. Stitch counts are given at the end of the rows and rounds where the count changes.

Skill level: Easy to intermediate. You should be comfortable with single crochet, sc2tog, turning rows, working into row-end spaces and sewing flat crochet pieces together.

Finished Size

With worsted weight yarn and a 4.0 mm hook, expect the complete crochet bat applique to measure about 4 1/2 to 5 inches across the spread wings and about 4 inches from the tops of the ears to the lower point of the body after gentle blocking.

Those measurements are expected dimensions rather than a required gauge. Crochet tension and yarn can change the finished size a little. The more important thing is to use the same yarn, hook and tension for both wings so the pair matches.

Each small wing is approximately 3 inches from its upper narrow tip to its lower narrow tip. The round head is roughly 1 3/4 to 2 inches across, and the body narrows from about 1 1/2 inches at the shoulders to a single-stitch point at the bottom.

Don't enlarge only the head or body if you want a bigger bat. The head, body and wings need to grow together or the proportions will start to look odd. If you need larger wings for another project, my free crochet bat wings pattern includes medium and large versions as well as the small wings used for this applique.

Crochet Bat Applique Pattern: Body and Head

Start with the center of the bat before making the wings. The body is a short tapered piece with a wide shoulder edge at the top and a single-stitch point at the bottom. The head is a separate flat circle that overlaps the top of the body during assembly.

I like this construction better than trying to crochet the entire bat as one complicated piece. You get a cleaner round head, a definite lower body point and much more control over where the wings sit.

Tapered Bat Body

Ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. 6 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog over the final 2 sts. Turn. 4 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. 4 sts.

Row 5: Ch 1. Sc2tog twice. Turn. 2 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1. Sc2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for assembly.

Lay the piece down with the 6-stitch edge at the top and the single-stitch point facing down. Don't turn it sideways during assembly. That wider edge is where the head will overlap the body.

Flat Bat Head

The beginning ch 1 in Rounds 2 and 3 does not count as a stitch. Join each round to the first sc of that round.

Ch 2.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. Join with a sl st to the first sc. 6 sts.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. 12 sts.

Round 3: Ch 1. (Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st to the first sc. 18 sts.

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for assembly.

The head should stay flat rather than cup. If it begins to curl noticeably, check that you have all 18 stitches in Round 3 before moving on.

Crochet Bat Wings

Make two identical small wings. You don't need separate left and right instructions. Once both pieces are finished, you'll flip one over to make the mirrored pair.

The important detail is the shaping edge. As you turn the work, the increase or decrease alternates between the first and last stitches so all of that shaping stays along the same physical side of the wing. The opposite side stays relatively straight because that's the edge you'll sew behind the bat.

Small Bat Wing, Make 2

Ch 2.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook. Turn. 1 st.

Row 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in the only st. Turn. 2 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in the first st, then work 2 sc in the last st. Turn. 3 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in the first st, then sc in each remaining st across. Turn. 4 sts.

Row 5: Ch 1. Sc in each st to the last st. Work 2 sc in the last st. Turn. 5 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in the first st, then sc in each remaining st across. Turn. 6 sts.

Rows 7 and 8: Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. 6 sts.

Row 9: Ch 1. Sc in each st to the last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. 5 sts.

Row 10: Ch 1. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. Sc in each remaining st across. Turn. 4 sts.

Row 11: Ch 1. Sc in each st to the last 2 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. 3 sts.

Row 12: Ch 1. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. Sc in the remaining st. Turn. 2 sts.

Row 13: Ch 1. Sc2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off.

Add the Pointed Wing Edge

Look at the finished wing before adding the edging. One long side should be relatively straight. Leave that side alone. Work the pointed edging only along the shaped outer edge between the two narrow ends.

Treat the narrow Row 1 end as the top of the wing and the narrow Row 13 end as the bottom. Join the yarn at the Row 1 end, then work down the shaped outer edge toward Row 13.

Work 1 sc into each of the first 6 row-end spaces along the shaped outer edge.

At the sixth space, ch 4. Sl st in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch and hdc in the final ch. Sl st back into the same edge space. This makes the extra pointed section along the outside of the wing.

Continue with 1 sc in each remaining row-end space until you reach the second narrow end.

Fasten off and weave in the edging ends.

The added point and the pointed lower end of the crocheted wing give the small wing its two obvious lower points. Don't round those off while weaving in the yarn ends.

Make the Wings a Mirrored Pair

Make the second wing exactly the same way.

Lay both wings flat with the same side facing up and the narrow upper tips pointing upward. Leave one wing where it is. Flip the second wing from side to side without turning it upside down from top to bottom. After the flip, the second wing will show the opposite face of the crochet; that's expected.

Move them together until the relatively straight attachment edges face the center and the shaped edges point away from each other.

Compare them before you sew anything. The widest areas should sit at about the same height and the outer points should reach away from the body at similar angles.

If one wing needs a little help, lightly block the two pieces side by side. Shape the narrow upper tip and lower points, but don't stretch the wings larger just to make them match. Let the wings dry completely, then remove every blocking pin before assembly.

I would leave the wings plain on this small applique. The shape already gives you the bat look, and extra surface stitching can make a little wing feel busier than it needs to be.

Crochet Bat Ears

The two pointed ears are worked directly onto the finished head. That keeps them secure and means you aren't trying to sew two tiny separate triangles into place.

Lay the head flat and choose which side will be the top.

Join matching yarn about 2 stitches to the left of the top center of the head.

First ear: Ch 3. Sl st in the second ch from the hook. Sc in the next ch. Sl st back into the same head stitch where the yarn was joined.

Sl st across the next 3 stitches around the outer edge of the head. The third slip stitch is the anchor point for the second ear.

Second ear: Ch 3. Sl st in the second ch from the hook. Sc in the next ch. Sl st back into that same head stitch.

Fasten off and weave the yarn ends into the back of the head.

Before you continue, lay the head down with both ears pointing up. They should sit on opposite sides of the top center rather than directly beside each other. A little space between them helps the round part of the head remain visible.

Add the Face

If you want a face, embroider it before attaching the head to the body. It's much easier to hide the embroidery ends while the head is still a separate piece.

Use small black embroidery-floss stitches for the eyes. Place them in the lower half of the round head with several stitches between them. Keep the face simple so it doesn't compete with the ears and wings.

If you're using black yarn, the black embroidered eyes may disappear into the crochet. In that case, I'd either leave the face plain or choose charcoal or deep plum yarn for the bat if visible black eyes are important to you.

Skip buttons, beads and plastic safety eyes on a bat that will be attached to a baby-oriented project. Embroidered details keep the surface flat and remove the need for small hard facial pieces.

How to Assemble the Bat Applique

Lay out all four crocheted pieces before you start sewing: the tapered body, the finished head and the two mirrored wings.

Get the placement right first. Once the wings are stitched down securely, moving one of them is a nuisance.

1. Place the tapered body with the 6-stitch edge at the top and the single-stitch point facing down.

2. Center the head over the wide top of the body. Let the lower edge of the round head overlap the body slightly so there isn't a visible gap between the two pieces.

3. Use the long yarn tail from the head or body to sew the overlapping area together securely. Keep your stitches mostly on the back so the front stays neat.

4. Place one wing on each side of the center section. The relatively straight attachment edges should point inward, and the shaped pointed edges should face away from the bat.

5. Tuck the inner edge of each wing slightly behind the assembled head and body. Position the upper wing tips near the sides of the head without covering the ears.

6. Check the complete shape from the front. The two wings should sit at about the same height, but they don't have to be identical down to the millimeter. Crochet has a little natural variation.

7. Thread a fresh length of matching yarn onto the yarn needle. Sew each wing securely along only the portion of the straight inner edge that overlaps the center of the bat. Leave the shaped outer edges and points free.

8. Weave every remaining yarn end securely into the back of the crochet.

The finished bat should lie almost completely flat. If the wings pull inward or curl after assembly, dampen and reshape the complete applique before sewing it onto another project.

I'd also resist the urge to stitch all the way around every wing. Attaching the inner edge while leaving the outer edge free keeps those lower points visible. That's what makes the silhouette read as a bat instead of a little black oval with wings stuck to it.

Ways to Use Your Crochet Bat Applique

A complete bat gives you more options than the separate wing pieces because it reads as a finished Halloween motif on its own. You can sew one in place or make several and arrange them at slightly different angles.

Blankets and keepsake quilts: Sew a bat near a corner or along one edge instead of covering the whole blanket with motifs. The little body and pointed wings are easy to recognize even when you use just one.

If you're adding the bat to a crochet blanket or garment, sew it down with matching yarn through the body and wing edges. For a baby-oriented blanket or baby clothing, stitch the shaped outer wing edges and points down securely too so there are no loose flaps to catch or pull. On an adult craft or display piece, you can leave the pointed outer sections free if you prefer the raised look.

Halloween banners: Make several bats in charcoal, black and deep plum, then attach them to a fabric or crocheted banner. Turn some slightly rather than lining every bat up at exactly the same angle.

Gift bags and treat bags: One flat bat can turn a plain handmade bag into a Halloween project without adding a bulky stuffed decoration.

Framed crochet art: Mount one bat or a small group on a contrasting fabric-covered background. The applique is flat enough that you don't need a deep shadow-box frame for a simple display.

Wall hangings: Combine a few bats with other flat Halloween motifs, but give each one enough open space that the pointed wings don't disappear into the rest of the design.

If you want more flat animal motifs, browse my free crochet animal applique patterns. The bat can also be mixed with projects from my free Halloween crochet patterns when you want several handmade pieces in the same seasonal color palette.

If what you really need is the wing shape rather than the complete bat, use my free crochet bat wings pattern. That page includes small, medium and large wings, so you don't have to enlarge this little applique wing by guesswork.

For baby-oriented blankets and nursery decorations, keep every applique securely attached and leave off buttons, beads, bells and dangling pieces. Wall decor and banners should be displayed securely out of a baby's reach.

And keep loose decorative blankets out of an infant sleep space. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission safe sleep guidance says an infant sleep space should be bare except for a fitted sheet. If you're making this as a baby keepsake, use it for display or supervised awake use rather than crib bedding.