Free Polar Bear Crochet Pattern for a Cute Amigurumi Bear

By Jan Bay

This free polar bear crochet pattern makes a small white amigurumi bear with a rounded head, compact body, tiny ears, short arms and sturdy little legs. The simple Arctic bear shape works well as a winter crochet project, a handmade Christmas gift or a nursery keepsake, while embroidered facial features give the finished bear a soft handmade expression.

White Worsted Weight Yarn for this project

Supplies for This Free Polar Bear Crochet Pattern

This polar bear is made with simple amigurumi materials, but the yarn and hook combination matters. I recommend a smooth worsted weight yarn rather than fuzzy novelty yarn for the first bear. A smooth yarn makes the stitches easier to count, keeps the shaping visible and gives the muzzle and ears a cleaner outline.

The finished bear is designed in white or soft ivory yarn with a compact stuffed body and embroidered facial features. You can use a cool white for a snowy Arctic look or a warmer ivory if you prefer a softer nursery palette.

• Worsted weight yarn, estimated 170 to 200 yards: white, natural white or soft ivory for the head, body, arms, legs, ears and muzzle
• 3.5 mm crochet hook: or the hook size needed to make a firm fabric without visible stuffing gaps
• Polyester fiberfill: enough to firmly fill the head, body, feet and lower legs, and lightly fill the arms, upper legs and muzzle
• Black embroidery floss or smooth black yarn: for the eyes, nose and mouth
• Yarn needle: for sewing the muzzle, ears and limbs to the body
• Stitch marker: for marking the first stitch of each continuous round
• Small scissors
• Straight pins or locking stitch markers: helpful for checking the position of the ears, muzzle and limbs before sewing
• Removable yarn marker: for marking the front center of the bear before the separate pieces are positioned

Choosing Yarn for a White Crochet Polar Bear

A polar bear can lose some of its shape if the yarn is very fluffy. Long fibers can hide the small decreases around the muzzle and make the ears blend into the head. A smooth acrylic, wool blend or cotton blend gives you more control over the outline.

Keep the yarn thickness consistent throughout the project. The muzzle is crocheted separately, but it should be made from the same yarn as the head unless you intentionally want a slightly different shade. A matching muzzle keeps the bear recognizable as a polar bear without adding unnecessary color changes.

If you enjoy making different bear styles, the crochet teddy bear pattern uses the same general idea of shaping a recognizable bear through proportion and placement, while the white yarn and shorter facial details give this polar bear a noticeably different character.

Use a Hook That Produces Firm Amigurumi Fabric

The suggested 3.5 mm hook is intentionally smaller than the hook many yarn labels recommend for worsted weight yarn. Amigurumi needs a dense fabric so the stuffing does not show between the stitches.

Do not pull the yarn so tightly that it becomes difficult to insert the hook. The goal is firm, even single crochet stitches with enough flexibility to shape the stuffed pieces. If you can clearly see fiberfill through the fabric, move down one hook size. If your hands are fighting every stitch, move up slightly.

Embroidered Features Instead of Plastic Eyes

This pattern uses embroidered eyes, nose and mouth. Small satin stitches give the eyes a neat oval shape without adding separate plastic pieces. The nose is also embroidered, with a short stitched mouth directly below it.

Keep the embroidery compact. Large eyes or a wide smile can make the bear look more like a cartoon teddy. Small dark features surrounded by plenty of white space suit the short muzzle and rounded polar bear head.

Leave the embroidery supplies nearby even though the face is completed later. The final expression depends on the placement of the muzzle, so I prefer to attach and shape that piece before adding the eyes and nose.

Free Polar Bear Crochet Pattern: Size, Stitches and Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked mostly in continuous rounds with single crochet stitches. The body and head form one continuous stuffed piece, which helps the finished bear keep a smooth shape through the neck. The arms, legs, ears and muzzle are crocheted separately and sewn on after the main piece is complete.

Expected finished size: approximately 9 inches tall from the top of the ears to the bottom of the feet when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. Yarn, hook size, stitch tension and stuffing can change the final measurement.

Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable crocheting in continuous rounds, increasing, decreasing, stuffing small pieces and sewing amigurumi parts together.

Pattern terminology: US crochet terms.

Gauge: Exact gauge is not critical for this project. What matters is making a firm fabric that holds the stuffing without visible gaps.

Abbreviations Used in the Pattern

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch
• dec = single crochet decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• FO = fasten off

How to Read the Round Instructions

A direction such as (sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times means to work one single crochet in each of the next four stitches, then work two single crochets into the next stitch. Repeat that sequence six times around.

The stitch count shown at the end of each round is the number of stitches you should have after completing that round. Count before moving on whenever the shape changes. Catching one missed increase early is much easier than correcting the head after several more rounds.

Work in Continuous Rounds

Do not join the rounds unless the instructions specifically tell you to do so. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it upward as you work.

The beginning of the round will gradually shift as the fabric spirals. That is normal. Use the stitch marker rather than trying to follow a visible seam.

Invisible Decreases Keep the Surface Neater

I recommend using an invisible decrease for the body, head, arms and legs. Insert the hook through the front loop of each of the next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, then complete the single crochet.

This produces a flatter decrease than crocheting two full stitches together. It is especially helpful with white yarn because shadows around bulky decreases can be surprisingly noticeable.

Stuff the Bear in Stages

Do not wait until the final opening is tiny before adding all the fiberfill. Add stuffing gradually as the body and head narrow. Break the fiberfill into small pieces and push each piece into place before adding more.

The lower body should feel firm enough to hold its shape but should not become hard. Add more stuffing through the center of the head so the cheeks remain rounded. Use the blunt end of a crochet hook or a stuffing tool to reach the sides of the head without stretching the stitches.

A lumpy white surface shows easily in photographs and in person. Small pieces of fiberfill give you much better control than one large wad.

Keep the Polar Bear Shape Distinct from a Teddy Bear

The white yarn establishes the Arctic color palette, but color alone does not make the finished project read as a polar bear. The proportions do some of that work.

This pattern uses a broad rounded head, small ears, a short projecting muzzle and compact dark facial features. The arms stay fairly short, and the legs have enough width to support the body without becoming oversized teddy bear feet.

Do not flatten the head while stuffing it. A full forehead and rounded sides help balance the projecting muzzle. At the same time, avoid packing excessive stuffing into the muzzle itself. The muzzle should project slightly from the face without looking like a long snout.

Pin all of the separate pieces in place before sewing. Look at the bear from the front, both sides and directly above. A small change in ear height or muzzle position can alter the expression more than an extra row of crochet ever will.

About the Finished Bear and Small Children

The facial details in this pattern are embroidered rather than made with plastic safety eyes. Even so, a handmade stuffed bear should be checked regularly for loose yarn ends, damaged seams or escaping fiberfill if it will be handled by a child.

Keep this stuffed bear out of a baby's crib, bassinet, play yard or other infant sleep space. In the United States, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission safe sleep guidance recommends a bare infant sleep space with only a fitted sheet.

The Craft Yarn Council provides general information about yarn crafts, skill building and crochet terminology at Craft Yarn Council.

Once your yarn, hook and stitch marker are ready, the main body can be worked without stopping to sew separate head pieces. That continuous construction is the next step.

Crochet the Polar Bear Body and Head

The body and head are crocheted as one continuous piece from the bottom up. This removes a neck seam and makes it easier to control the proportions of the finished bear. The lower body starts broad, narrows through the upper body and then expands again to form the larger rounded head.

Use white or soft ivory yarn and your 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds and move the stitch marker to the first stitch of each new round.

Do not fasten off between the body and head.

Begin at the Bottom of the Body

Round 1: Work 6 sc into a MR. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

Rounds 7 through 10: Sc in each stitch around. (36 sts for each round)

At this point, the bottom of the bear should be broad and gently rounded rather than flat like the base of a basket. If the starting circle wants to fold inward, shape it outward with your fingers before you continue.

Round 11: (Sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Rounds 12 through 14: Sc in each stitch around. (30 sts for each round)

Round 15: (Sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Rounds 16 and 17: Sc in each stitch around. (24 sts for each round)

Stuff the Lower Body Before Starting the Head

Begin adding fiberfill now. Use small amounts and push the stuffing into the bottom and sides first. Fill the lower body firmly enough that it keeps its rounded shape when you set it down, but leave the upper opening flexible enough to continue crocheting comfortably.

Pay attention to the sides of the body as you stuff. The lower half should look full, while the area near Round 17 should be narrower. That change in width creates the transition between the compact body and the larger head.

Do not pack a large ball of fiberfill into the center and leave the outer edges empty. Small pieces placed around the inside wall produce a smoother surface.

Increase for the Polar Bear Head

Continue directly from Round 17. The next four rounds expand the 24-stitch upper body into a 48-stitch head.

Round 18: (Sc 3, inc) repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 19: (Sc 4, inc) repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

Round 20: (Sc 5, inc) repeat 6 times. (42 sts)

Round 21: (Sc 6, inc) repeat 6 times. (48 sts)

Rounds 22 through 28: Sc in each stitch around. (48 sts for each round)

These straight rounds create the broad center of the head. Resist the temptation to add extra rounds just because the piece looks short while it is unstuffed. The head will become noticeably taller and rounder after fiberfill is added.

Before you begin decreasing, add more stuffing through the top opening. Push some fiberfill down into the transition between the body and head. This area needs enough support to keep the head upright, but it should still look like a natural narrowing rather than a rigid column.

Shape the Top of the Head

Round 29: (Sc 6, dec) repeat 6 times. (42 sts)

Round 30: (Sc 5, dec) repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

Round 31: (Sc 4, dec) repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Stop and add more fiberfill. Shape the cheeks and sides of the head with your fingers as you work. The head should be rounded from the front and slightly deeper from front to back. Avoid flattening the front because the separate muzzle will need a gently curved surface for attachment.

Round 32: (Sc 3, dec) repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 33: (Sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Add the final substantial amount of stuffing before the opening becomes too small. Check the head from several angles. Fill any hollow spots along the sides and around the upper forehead.

Round 34: (Sc 1, dec) repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Add a small amount of fiberfill if needed. Do not force so much stuffing into the final opening that the stitches stretch apart.

Round 35: Dec around. (6 sts)

FO and leave a tail approximately 8 inches long. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches. Pull gently to close the opening, secure the yarn and weave the end into the head.

Check the Shape Before Making the Separate Pieces

Set the completed body and head upright and look at the silhouette before moving on. The head should be noticeably wider than the narrow upper body, and the lower body should have enough fullness to balance it.

If one side of the head looks flatter, redistribute the fiberfill with your fingers rather than adding more immediately. Massage small amounts toward the flat area until the surface looks even.

The top of the head does not need to be perfectly spherical. A slightly broad forehead gives you room to place the small ears toward the upper sides instead of perching them directly on top.

Choose the front of the bear now and place a removable yarn marker at the center front. Keep that marker in place while you make and position the remaining pieces so the muzzle, legs and arms stay aligned to the same front throughout assembly.

The main shape is now complete. The short arms and rounded legs are worked separately so you can position them after the body has been fully stuffed and shaped.

Crochet the Polar Bear Arms and Legs

The arms and legs are worked separately so you can adjust their placement after the body has been stuffed and shaped. Make both arms first, then make two matching legs. Keep the pieces compact. Long limbs can quickly turn the silhouette into a traditional teddy bear rather than the short, sturdy polar bear shape used for this pattern.

Crochet Two Short Polar Bear Arms

Use the same white or soft ivory yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds.

Arm Round 1: Work 6 sc into a MR. (6 sts)

Arm Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Arm Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Rounds 4 through 6: Sc in each stitch around. (18 sts for each round)

Round 7: (Sc 4, dec) repeat 3 times. (15 sts)

Rounds 8 through 10: Sc in each stitch around. (15 sts for each round)

Round 11: (Sc 3, dec) repeat 3 times. (12 sts)

Rounds 12 through 14: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sts for each round)

Add a small amount of fiberfill to the lower half of the arm. Keep the upper third almost flat. A lightly stuffed arm hangs closer to the body and is easier to sew securely along the shoulder.

Do not stuff all the way to the open edge. Press the opening flat so the final stitches line up in pairs.

Closing row: Flatten the 12-stitch opening so 6 stitches lie in front of 6 stitches. Sc through both layers across the opening. (6 sc)

FO and leave a sewing tail approximately 12 inches long.

Make a second arm in the same way.

Check the Arms Before You Continue

Place the two finished arms beside the stuffed body. The rounded ends should reach toward the lower half of the body without extending past the bottom. If the arms look unusually long, check that you did not accidentally add extra straight rounds.

The top of each arm should be soft enough to flatten between your fingers. That flat edge creates a wider sewing area and helps the arm sit against the body instead of sticking straight out.

Do not sew the arms on yet. Final arm placement is easier after the legs have been made and pinned in position.

Crochet Two Rounded Polar Bear Legs

The legs begin with a wider rounded foot and taper slightly toward the top. They are more heavily stuffed than the arms because they help visually support the lower body.

Use the same white or soft ivory yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Leg Round 1: Work 6 sc into a MR. (6 sts)

Leg Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Leg Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Leg Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Rounds 5 and 6: Sc in each stitch around. (24 sts for each round)

The first six rounds form the rounded end of the foot. Shape the piece with your fingers before beginning the decreases.

Round 7: (Sc 2, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Rounds 8 through 10: Sc in each stitch around. (18 sts for each round)

Round 11: (Sc 4, dec) repeat 3 times. (15 sts)

Rounds 12 and 13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 sts for each round)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly. Push fiberfill into the rounded end first, then add smaller amounts through the center. Keep the top portion softer so it can conform to the body during sewing.

Round 14: (Sc 3, dec) repeat 3 times. (12 sts)

Round 15: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Add a final small amount of stuffing if needed. Leave approximately the top half inch lightly filled.

Flatten the open edge.

Closing row: Flatten the 12-stitch opening so 6 stitches lie in front of 6 stitches. Sc through both layers across the opening. (6 sc)

FO and leave a sewing tail approximately 14 inches long.

Make the second leg the same way.

Shape the Feet Before Assembly

Roll each stuffed leg gently between your palms to distribute the fiberfill. Then press the rounded end slightly so it reads as a compact foot instead of a ball.

The foot does not need a separate sole or toe section. The subtle flattening at the rounded end is enough to give the leg direction once it is sewn to the body.

Compare both legs side by side. They should be close in length and fullness. If one looks thinner, move some stuffing toward its outer edges before adding more fiberfill.

Keep the upper edge of each leg flexible. A rigidly stuffed top can leave a visible gap between the limb and the body after sewing.

Pin the Limbs Before Sewing

Place the body upright with the removable front marker facing you. Position the legs low on the body with their rounded feet pointing slightly forward. The legs should sit far enough apart that the body remains visible between them.

Do not place the legs directly underneath the body like two narrow columns. Set them toward the lower front sides so the finished bear has a broad, balanced stance.

Now place the arms along the upper sides of the body. Pin each arm below the widest part of the head. The flat upper edge should follow the curve of the body, while the rounded end points downward.

Look at the bear from the front before you sew anything. The left and right sides do not have to be mathematically identical, but the limb height should appear balanced.

Turn the bear to a three-quarter angle and check the feet again. Both should project forward by a similar amount. If one foot disappears behind the body from the front, move that leg slightly outward.

This pinning step is worth taking slowly. Once the limbs are sewn securely, changing their position means removing several tight stitches from white crochet fabric.

The crochet bear appliqué pattern uses a completely flat construction, but it is another useful example of how ear, arm and leg placement changes the character of a bear even when the individual pieces are simple.

Do Not Sew the Limbs Permanently Yet

Leave the arms and legs pinned while you make the ears and muzzle. Those smaller pieces establish the face and can affect how high or low the arms appear once the bear is viewed as a complete figure.

When all of the pieces are present, you can make the final placement adjustments before sewing. This keeps the proportions coordinated instead of treating each attachment point as a separate decision.

Crochet the Polar Bear Ears and Muzzle

The ears and muzzle are small pieces, but they do much of the work of making the finished animal look like a polar bear instead of a white teddy bear. Keep the ears compact and place them toward the upper sides of the head. The muzzle should project slightly from the face without becoming long or pointed.

Use the same white or soft ivory yarn and the 3.5 mm hook for all three pieces.

Crochet Two Small Round Ears

The ears are flat circles. Do not stuff them.

Ear Round 1: Work 6 sc into a MR. (6 sts)

Ear Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Ear Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Sl st into the next stitch to finish the circle neatly. FO and leave a sewing tail approximately 10 inches long.

Make the second ear the same way.

Lay both ears flat beside each other and compare their diameter before continuing. If one ear is noticeably larger, check the stitch count rather than trying to compensate during sewing.

Do not add another round. These ears are intentionally small in relation to the 48-stitch head.

Shape the Ears for Placement

The finished circles should remain flat, but they should not be sewn flat against the top surface of the head. Each ear needs to stand on its lower edge so the round portion rises above the head like a normal bear ear.

Hold one ear upright between your fingers. The lower portion of the circle becomes the sewing edge. Pin that edge to the upper side of the head while allowing the rest of the circle to stand outward.

Repeat on the opposite side. From the front, both ears should extend beyond the outline of the head. They should not look like two white discs lying horizontally across the crown.

Position the ears slightly outward and downward from the very top center of the head. A little white forehead should remain visible above and between them.

Do not sew the ears permanently yet. Leave them pinned until the muzzle is also in place.

Crochet the Short Polar Bear Muzzle

The muzzle is worked as a shallow round cup. It is made from the same yarn as the head, then lightly stuffed when it is attached. The finished piece can be shaped gently into a horizontal oval during sewing.

Muzzle Round 1: Work 6 sc into a MR. (6 sts)

Muzzle Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Muzzle Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Muzzle Round 4: Sc in each stitch around. (18 sts)

Sl st into the next stitch. FO and leave a sewing tail approximately 16 inches long.

Do not stuff the muzzle yet.

Position the Muzzle Before Embroidering the Face

Place the body upright with the front marker facing you. Center the muzzle on the lower half of the face.

The upper edge of the muzzle should sit below the horizontal center of the head. Leave enough open forehead above it for the eyes. The muzzle should not sit so low that it appears to hang beneath the head.

Pin the muzzle at four points first: top, bottom, left and right. Step back and look at the head from the front.

Gently press the sides of the muzzle outward to make the circle read as a soft horizontal oval. You do not need to stretch the stitches. The shaping comes from how the edge is pinned and sewn to the curved head.

Check the muzzle from a three-quarter angle. It should project slightly from the face. If it lies completely flat, leave room for a small amount of fiberfill during sewing.

A short projecting muzzle is important here. A long stuffed snout can change the entire profile and make the finished animal look more canine than bear-like.

Check the Ear and Muzzle Relationship

Once the muzzle is pinned, look at the whole head instead of judging each piece separately.

The ears should sit high and wide enough to frame the head. The muzzle should remain centered below them. If the face looks crowded, move the ears slightly farther outward before changing the muzzle.

View the head from directly above. Both ears should stand on their edges at a similar angle. Neither ear should lie flat on the crown.

Then look from each side. The ear circles should rise from the upper sides of the head with enough of their lower edge touching the crochet fabric to create a secure seam later.

If you want another bear project with a very different construction method, the crochet bear hat pattern shows how small rounded ears can change the character of a simple crocheted shape without adding complicated details.

Why the Muzzle Is Attached Before the Facial Embroidery

It is easier to place the eyes after the muzzle has a fixed position. The top of the muzzle gives you a visual reference for keeping the eyes level and evenly spaced.

Embroidering the face before attaching the muzzle can leave the nose too high, too low or too close to the eyes once the three-dimensional piece is added.

Keep the black embroidery floss aside for now. The eyes, nose and mouth will be added after the ears, muzzle and limbs are securely sewn in place.

Prepare All Pieces for Final Assembly

You should now have 8 crocheted pieces total: one stuffed body and head, two arms, two legs, two flat round ears and one shallow muzzle.

Lay all of the pieces around the body before sewing. Check that you have two matching arms, two matching legs and two ears of equal size.

Pin the ears, muzzle, arms and legs in their planned positions. Set the bear upright if it will balance, or support it against a folded towel while you check the front view.

Small adjustments are still easy at this stage. Move a pin now rather than trying to correct a finished seam later.

Once the proportions look balanced from the front and both sides, you are ready to sew the polar bear together.

Assemble the Crochet Polar Bear

Before you thread the yarn needle, arrange every piece around the stuffed body one more time. The bear should now have two short arms, two rounded legs, two small flat ears and one shallow muzzle. Keep the pieces pinned until you have checked the bear from the front and both sides.

I prefer to finish the face only after the crocheted pieces are attached. Sewing can shift the fabric slightly, especially around the muzzle, and it is easier to place the embroidered features after the final shape of the head is settled.

Check the Full Polar Bear Layout Before Sewing

Set the bear upright with the front marker facing you. Pin the legs low on the front sides of the body with the rounded feet angled slightly forward. Pin the arms below the head so they hang naturally along the sides.

Now check the ears. Each round ear should stand on its lower edge near the upper side of the head. The circular portion should rise above and outside the head outline rather than lying flat against the crown.

Center the muzzle on the lower front of the head. It should sit below the future eye line with enough white space between the muzzle and ears to keep the face open and uncluttered.

Look at the complete bear from several feet away if you can. At close range, it is easy to concentrate on one pin or seam. From farther back, uneven ears or a crooked muzzle are much easier to see.

Sew the Legs to the Lower Body

Start with the legs because they establish the bottom balance of the bear. Remove the pin from one leg while holding the piece in position with your fingers.

Thread the long yarn tail from the leg onto the yarn needle. Bring the needle through a stitch on the lower body directly beside the closed upper edge of the leg.

Sew through one stitch along the top of the leg and then through a nearby stitch on the body. Continue across the upper edge with small, firm stitches.

Do not pull each stitch as tightly as possible. Pull until the seam closes neatly against the body without puckering the crochet fabric.

When you reach the opposite side of the leg, turn the bear and inspect the seam. If the top edge still lifts away from the body, add one or two small securing stitches at the corners.

Secure the yarn by passing the needle through the body near the seam. Bring the needle out several stitches away, pull gently and trim the yarn close to the surface. Massage the body lightly so the cut end disappears inside.

Attach the second leg in the same way.

Compare Both Feet After the Legs Are Attached

Set the bear upright and look directly at the front. Both feet should point generally forward, and the lower body should remain visible between them.

If one leg twists slightly inward or outward, you may be able to correct it with one discreet anchoring stitch near the upper side of the leg. Do not add several visible stitches across the rounded foot.

Check the bear from the side as well. The feet can project forward, but the legs should not pull the entire body backward.

Sew the Arms Along the Upper Sides

Leave the second arm pinned while you attach the first. This gives you a visual reference for height and angle.

Thread the sewing tail from the arm onto the yarn needle. Hold the flat upper edge against the side of the body.

Sew through a stitch on the body and then through the corresponding stitch along the closed top of the arm. Continue across the upper edge with short stitches.

The arm should hang downward instead of pointing straight out from the shoulder. If it swings too far away from the body, add a small anchoring stitch just below the upper seam.

Attach the second arm at the same height. Before securing the final yarn tail, compare both sides from the front.

The arms do not need to be rigidly fixed along their entire length. Leaving the lower portions free gives the finished bear a softer shape and prevents the sides of the body from looking compressed.

Sew the Ears So They Stand Upright

The ears need a different attachment method because they are flat circles rather than stuffed pieces.

Keep the first ear standing on its lower edge in the position you established with the pins. Thread the ear tail onto the yarn needle.

Begin near one end of the lower attachment edge. Pass the needle through a stitch on the head and then through the lower portion of the ear.

Continue along only the bottom section of the circle. Do not sew the entire ear flat against the head.

The upper half of the circle must remain free so the ear stands outward. This creates the small rounded polar bear ear shape when the bear is viewed from the front.

Before you secure the yarn, look at the ear from the side. If it leans too far forward, add a small stitch toward the back of the attachment edge. If it falls backward, place the support stitch closer to the front.

Attach the second ear in the same way.

Then look at the head straight on. Both ears should extend beyond the sides of the head by a similar amount. A small difference is less noticeable than one ear sitting much higher than the other.

Sew the Muzzle to the Face

Keep the muzzle centered in its pinned position. Thread the long muzzle tail onto the yarn needle.

Begin at the lower edge. Sew through one stitch along the muzzle and then through a nearby stitch on the head. Continue around approximately three quarters of the edge.

Stop before closing the final section.

Add a small amount of fiberfill through the opening. The muzzle needs enough filling to project gently from the face, but it should not become round like a ball.

Press the stuffing toward the center while keeping the outer edge relatively flat. Look at the face from the side before adding more.

When the projection looks right, continue sewing the remaining edge to the head.

As you close the seam, shape the muzzle gently into a horizontal oval. Keep the upper and lower edges centered on the front of the head.

Secure the yarn and hide the tail inside the head.

Check the Head Shape After the Muzzle Is Attached

Attaching the muzzle can compress the front of the stuffed head slightly. Hold the head between both hands and reshape it with gentle pressure.

Push the fiberfill outward toward the cheeks if the front has become flat. Keep the forehead full and rounded.

Look at the muzzle from above. It should remain centered rather than turning toward one side.

If the muzzle seems too prominent, press the filling inward and redistribute it before changing the seam. If it looks completely flat, you can carefully work a small amount of fiberfill beneath it with the blunt end of a crochet hook before the yarn tail is fully secured.

Inspect Every Seam Before Adding the Face

Run your fingers around each attachment point. Look for loose loops, visible gaps or yarn tails that have not been secured.

Gently tug each arm, leg and ear. Nothing should separate from the body under light pressure.

Pay particular attention to the ear seams because only the lower portion of each circle is attached. Add another small stitch if an edge feels loose, but keep the upper part of the ear free.

Check the muzzle seam all the way around. No fiberfill should be visible between the muzzle and head.

Once the sewing is complete, remove the temporary marker from the front of the body.

If you would like to make another dimensional bear after this one, the free crochet teddy bear pattern gives you a traditional bear shape to contrast with this shorter-muzzled white polar bear.

The crocheted construction is now finished. The remaining work is small but important: a compact embroidered nose, simple mouth and carefully placed satin-stitch eyes will give the polar bear its final expression.

Embroider the Polar Bear Face

The face should stay simple. Small embroidered eyes, a compact black nose and a short mouth give the polar bear expression without competing with the rounded white head and muzzle.

Use black embroidery floss or a smooth black yarn that is thinner than the yarn used for the bear. If the embroidery yarn is too bulky, the eyes can become heavy and the nose can cover too much of the muzzle.

Do not add the face until the muzzle and ears are fully attached. Their final positions give you the reference points you need for balanced embroidery.

Mark the Eye Positions First

Set the bear upright and face it directly toward you. Place two removable pins where you plan to embroider the eyes. Remove each pin immediately before you embroider that eye.

Position the eyes above the muzzle with enough white space between them to keep the face open. The inner edges of the eyes should sit slightly wider than the center of the muzzle.

Do not place the eyes directly beside the muzzle. A little space between the lower edge of each eye and the top of the muzzle keeps the features distinct.

Check that both pins sit on the same horizontal line. Then turn the head slightly to each side. Because the head is curved, two points that appear even from one angle can look mismatched from another.

If you are unsure about the spacing, begin slightly wider rather than crowding the center of the face. Compact features surrounded by white crochet help preserve the polar bear look.

Make the First Satin-Stitch Eye

Thread the embroidery needle with enough black floss to complete the facial embroidery comfortably without working with an excessively long strand. Tie a small knot at the end of the floss.

Insert the needle through a gap between stitches near the back or lower side of the head and bring it out at the first marked eye position. Pull gently until the small knot slips just inside the crochet fabric and is buried in the stuffing. Do not pull hard enough to draw the knot through the front of the head. If you need to begin a new strand before the face is complete, secure the current strand as described below and begin the new strand with another buried knot.

Make one short vertical stitch at the eye location.

Bring the needle out immediately beside that stitch and make a second stitch of the same length.

Add one or two more closely packed stitches until the eye forms a small compact oval. Keep the stitches parallel and close together.

The finished eye should look embroidered, not like a large round black dot. Avoid widening it unnecessarily.

Match the Second Eye to the First

Do not estimate the second eye solely from the stitch count on the crochet fabric. The curved head can distort that measurement.

Keep the first eye visible while you bring the needle out at the second marked location. Make the first stitch and compare its height with the completed eye before adding more.

Build the second satin-stitch eye with the same number and approximate length of stitches.

Set the bear down and check the face before securing the thread. Look at it from directly in front and from a three-quarter angle.

If one eye appears slightly heavier, add a single stitch to the smaller eye rather than repeatedly stitching over both.

Embroider a Compact Black Nose

Place the nose near the upper center of the attached muzzle. It should sit on the muzzle itself rather than crossing onto the head.

Use a pin to mark the center, then remove the pin before you begin stitching the nose.

Bring the black floss out at one side of the planned nose. Make a short horizontal stitch across the center.

Add several closely packed horizontal stitches above and below the first stitch to form a small rounded triangle or soft oval nose.

Keep the nose fairly compact. The white muzzle should remain visible around it on every side.

If you want the lower edge to taper slightly, make the final stitch shorter than the stitches above it.

Do not build the nose by repeatedly wrapping thick layers of floss over the same area. A dense but relatively flat embroidered nose looks neater and is less likely to snag.

Add the Short Mouth

Bring the needle out directly below the center of the nose.

Make one short vertical stitch downward from the bottom of the nose.

From the lower end of that stitch, make a short diagonal stitch toward one side.

Return to the center and make a matching short diagonal stitch toward the opposite side.

The mouth should be small and understated. It does not need a wide curved smile.

Look at the face before adding any extra stitches. White crochet gives dark embroidery a lot of visual weight, so a few precise stitches are enough.

Hide the Embroidery Ends Inside the Head

When the face is complete, bring the needle out near the back or lower side of the head. Make a small securing knot close to the crochet surface, then use the needle to pull the knot just inside the crochet fabric so it is buried in the stuffing.

Bring the needle out several stitches away, trim the floss close to the crochet fabric and massage the head lightly so the cut end slips back inside.

Repeat for any remaining embroidery tail. Do not leave a large knot on the outside of the head.

Check the Expression Before You Call It Finished

Set the bear upright and look at the whole figure rather than only the face. The eyes should appear level, the nose should be centered over the mouth and the muzzle should still look softly rounded.

If the expression seems uneven, identify the exact feature that is causing it before changing anything. A slightly crooked ear can make perfectly level eyes look uneven, and a muzzle that has shifted to one side can make the nose appear off center.

Do not keep adding embroidery in an attempt to correct the overall expression. More black stitching can quickly make the face look crowded.

The small eyes are intentional. Larger embroidered eyes may look appealing on some amigurumi designs, but they change the proportions of this polar bear and pull attention away from the short white muzzle.

Optional Claw Details

You can leave the arms and feet completely white, which gives the finished bear the cleanest look. If you want a little more definition, add three very short gray or black straight stitches near the rounded end of each foot.

Keep any claw stitches shallow and close together. They should read as a small detail rather than bold stripes across the feet.

I would leave the paws plain if the bear is intended for a soft nursery display or if you want the embroidered face to remain the only dark detail besides the optional claws.

Keep Extra Decorations Separate from the Core Pattern

A tiny crocheted scarf can turn the polar bear into a winter or Christmas project, but the bear itself does not need seasonal decoration. Leaving the basic pattern plain makes it useful beyond the holidays.

If you add a removable scarf, make it for display or supervised handling rather than treating it as a permanent part of a toy for a baby or very young child.

The completed face is the last detailed construction step. What remains is a final seam check, gentle reshaping and a few practical adjustments that help the finished polar bear sit and display well.

Finishing and Shaping the Crochet Polar Bear

The crochet and embroidery are complete, but a few finishing steps can make a noticeable difference in the final shape. Take a little time to check the stuffing, seams and limb position before weaving in the last yarn tails.

Set the bear upright on a flat surface and look at it from the front first. The head should sit above the body without leaning heavily to either side. Both ears should stand on their lower edges, the muzzle should remain centered, and the feet should point generally forward.

Reshape the Head and Body with Your Hands

Gently roll the body between your palms to smooth any uneven areas in the fiberfill. Do not squeeze hard enough to flatten the stitches.

Use your fingertips to move small amounts of stuffing toward areas that look hollow. Pay particular attention to the sides of the head, the forehead and the lower body.

The head should remain broad and rounded. Keep the muzzle projecting only slightly from the face.

If the neck area looks too thin, push a little fiberfill toward the transition between the body and head. Work from the outside rather than opening the crochet again unless there is a large empty area.

Adjust the Polar Bear Feet for a Stable Shape

Press the rounded end of each leg lightly against a flat surface. This creates a subtle flatter area beneath the foot without changing the crocheted construction.

Do not crease the feet sharply. You only need enough shaping to keep them from looking like round balls.

Set the bear down again. If one foot turns farther outward than the other, rotate the leg gently at the attachment point.

A small anchoring stitch near the upper side of a leg can correct a persistent twist. Use matching white yarn and place the stitch where it will disappear into the surrounding crochet.

Make Sure the Arms Hang Naturally

Both arms should fall along the sides of the body. They can angle slightly forward, but they should not stick straight out from the shoulders.

If an arm lifts away from the body, use the existing sewing tail or a new strand of matching yarn to add one small anchoring stitch beneath the upper attachment.

Keep the lower portion of each arm free. Sewing the entire arm against the body can make the bear look stiff.

Check the Ear Position from Every Angle

Look at the bear directly from the front. You should see both ears extending beyond the outline of the head.

Now turn the bear to each side. Each ear should stand upright on its sewn lower edge rather than lying flat against the top of the head.

If one ear leans too far forward, add a small securing stitch toward the back of its base. If it falls backward, add the stitch toward the front.

Avoid sewing higher around the circular ear just to make it rigid. Keeping the upper portion free preserves the small rounded ear shape.

Inspect the White Crochet for Visible Fiberfill

White yarn can make gaps easier to see, especially around decrease rounds and attachment seams. Check the head, body, legs and muzzle under good light.

If a tiny amount of fiberfill is caught on the surface, use the tip of a yarn needle to push it back between the stitches.

Do not trim fiberfill fibers with scissors close to the crochet. It is safer to tuck them back inside.

If the stuffing is visible through several stitches in one area, adding more fiberfill will not solve the problem. The fabric itself is stretched too far. Redistribute the existing stuffing away from that spot until the stitches relax.

Hide Any Remaining Yarn Tails

Thread each remaining yarn tail onto a yarn needle.

Pass the needle through several stitches and into the stuffed body or head. Bring it out an inch or two away.

Pull gently, trim the yarn close to the surface and massage the crochet so the cut end slips back inside.

Do not leave knots sitting on the outside of the bear. They can interrupt the smooth white surface and may loosen with handling.

Final Size and Proportions

Expected finished height: approximately 9 inches from the top of the ears to the bottom of the feet when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5 mm hook.

The head should appear larger than the upper body, with a rounded forehead and short muzzle. The ears remain small in relation to the head. The arms are short, and the rounded legs give the lower half enough visual weight to balance the broad head.

If your bear is a different size but the proportions look balanced and the crochet fabric is firm, there is no need to remake it. Yarn thickness, hook size and individual tension can all change the final measurement.

Optional Winter and Christmas Details

The plain white bear is intentionally evergreen, but it can be dressed for a winter display with a removable crocheted scarf.

A narrow red, forest green or charcoal scarf adds seasonal color without changing the pattern itself. Keep the accessory simple so the polar bear remains the focus.

If the finished bear will be handled by a baby or very young child, leave removable accessories off and check all seams regularly for loose yarn or exposed stuffing.

Ideas for Using the Finished Polar Bear

The finished bear works well as a handmade nursery decoration, winter shelf accent or Christmas gift. It can also become part of a collection of crocheted animals without requiring a different construction style for every project.

You could pair it with the crochet teddy bear pattern for two very different bear silhouettes, or use the crochet bear appliqué pattern when you want a flat bear motif instead of a stuffed figure.

If you want the same Arctic bear theme in a baby comfort project, make the polar bear crochet lovey pattern.

Before You Finish

Give the bear one final inspection under bright light. Check the ears, muzzle, arms and legs for loose stitches. Make sure no fiberfill is visible and no yarn tails remain on the surface. Remove every straight pin, locking stitch marker and removable yarn marker, and make sure none remain in or attached to the bear.

Look at the face from several angles. Small embroidered features can appear slightly different as the curved head turns, but the nose should remain centered and both eyes should read as a matching pair.

When the seams are secure and the shape looks balanced, the polar bear is finished.

Polar Bear Crochet Pattern FAQ

Is this a beginner polar bear crochet pattern?

This pattern is best for a confident beginner who already knows how to make a magic ring, single crochet, increase and decrease in continuous rounds. The individual stitches are simple, but the project also requires stuffing, shaping, sewing small pieces in position and embroidering the face.

If you are new to amigurumi, count every shaping round before moving on. Most problems with the finished proportions begin with one missed increase or decrease rather than with the sewing at the end.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. You can use a different yarn weight if you pair it with a hook that produces firm crochet fabric. Changing the yarn will also change the finished size of the bear.

A lighter yarn will make a smaller polar bear, while a thicker yarn will produce a larger one. Keep all of the body pieces in the same yarn weight so the arms, legs, ears and muzzle stay in proportion to the head and body.

I would not mix a bulky body yarn with a worsted weight muzzle or ears unless you are prepared to adjust the stitch counts. The pieces are designed to fit each other as written.

Can I make a mini polar bear with this pattern?

Yes. The simplest way to make a smaller version is to use a lighter yarn and smaller hook rather than removing rounds from the pattern. That preserves the proportions while reducing the overall size.

Make sure the smaller hook still allows you to work comfortably. Very tight stitches can make amigurumi difficult to shape and can put unnecessary strain on your hands.

Why does my polar bear look more like a teddy bear?

Check the ears and muzzle first. Oversized ears, a long muzzle or very large eyes can shift the face toward a traditional teddy bear look.

The ears in this pattern are deliberately small and should stand on their lower edges toward the upper sides of the head. The muzzle is shallow and projects only slightly. Keep the embroidered eyes compact and leave plenty of white space around the facial features.

The limb proportions matter too. Short arms and sturdy rounded legs suit the compact polar bear shape better than long dangling limbs.

Why is my amigurumi polar bear leaning to one side?

First check the stuffing. One side of the lower body or head may contain more fiberfill than the other. Massage the stuffing through the crochet fabric and redistribute it before changing any seams.

Next check the legs. If one leg is attached higher or farther forward than the other, the body may tilt when you set the bear down. A small anchoring stitch can sometimes correct the angle without removing the entire leg.

If the head leans but the body is balanced, move a little stuffing into the neck transition. The continuous head-and-body construction needs enough support in that narrow area to keep the head upright.

Can I use safety eyes instead of embroidered eyes?

The pattern is written for embroidered satin-stitch eyes, and I would keep them. The small stitched eyes suit the proportions of the face and avoid adding separate plastic pieces.

If you change the facial construction, remember that the final appearance and suitability of the finished item can change too. For a bear intended around babies or very young children, simple securely embroidered features are the better choice for this design.

Can I make the polar bear in colors other than white?

Yes. The crochet construction will work in any color. White, natural white and pale ivory make the animal immediately recognizable as a polar bear, but the same pattern can be used as a small bear amigurumi in other colors.

If you switch to brown, tan or gray, the finished project will naturally read more like a general bear. For a traditional brown version, you may prefer the proportions in the crochet teddy bear pattern.

Can I add a scarf to make it a Christmas polar bear?

Yes. A narrow removable crochet scarf is an easy way to give the finished bear a Christmas or winter look without changing the main pattern.

Keep the scarf separate from the construction of the bear so you can remove it after the holidays. A plain white polar bear remains useful for winter decorating long after Christmas decorations are packed away.

Leave removable accessories off if the bear will be given to a baby or very young child.

How much yarn should I have left after making the bear?

Plan on an estimated 170 to 200 yards of worsted weight yarn for the complete bear. The amount you actually use will vary with your tension, yarn thickness, stuffing and how generously you leave sewing tails.

If you are starting with a standard skein that contains substantially more than 200 yards, you should have yarn remaining for repairs or a small accessory. Keep a few yards of the matching white yarn after the project is finished. It is useful if an attachment seam ever needs reinforcing.

Can I wash the finished crochet polar bear?

Follow the care instructions for the yarn and fiberfill you used. Yarn fibers can respond very differently to heat, agitation and drying, so the material label should guide the cleaning method.

Before washing, inspect every seam and make sure the embroidery is secure. Reshape the head, ears, muzzle and feet while the bear dries if the yarn care instructions allow washing.

What should I check before giving the finished bear as a gift?

Check every attachment seam, especially the ears and limbs. Pull gently on each piece and look for loose stitches or exposed fiberfill.

Inspect the embroidered eyes, nose and mouth for loose ends. Make sure all sewing tails have been secured and hidden inside the bear.

Finally, look over the white crochet fabric for gaps that may have opened during stuffing or assembly. The finished surface should be firm enough to contain the fiberfill without stretching around the decreases.

More Free Crochet Bear Patterns to Make Next

If you enjoyed shaping this polar bear, there are several ways to keep working with the same general animal theme without making the same project again. Each of these patterns changes the construction enough to give you a different crochet challenge.

Make a Traditional Crochet Teddy Bear

The free crochet teddy bear pattern is the closest companion project to this one. It has the familiar proportions of a classic teddy, so it is also a useful comparison if you want to see how changes in the muzzle, ears and limb shape affect the finished bear.

Try a Flat Crochet Bear Appliqué

If you would rather make something that can be sewn onto a blanket or another handmade project, use the crochet bear appliqué pattern. The construction is flat instead of stuffed, which makes it a completely different project even though the bear theme carries through.

Crochet a Bear Hat

The crochet bear hat pattern turns the rounded-ear idea into a wearable project. It is a good next choice when you want to stay with bear crochet but move away from amigurumi assembly.

A plain white polar bear has enough character without extra decoration, and that is what I like about this pattern. The small ears, short muzzle and compact embroidered face do the work. Add a scarf when you want a winter version, leave it plain for an Arctic animal, or make another in a different yarn weight when you want a smaller bear using the same proportions.