Free Large Crochet Basket Pattern With Handles

This free large crochet basket pattern creates an XXL round storage basket with a reinforced double base, sturdy single-crochet walls, a firm upper rim and two raised handles. It is the reusable master basket construction for every animal-themed basket in this series.

Shop Jumbo Cotton Cord for Large Crochet Storage Baskets

Free Large Crochet Basket Pattern Conventions

• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Refer to the Craft Yarn Council crochet abbreviations for the industry-standard US terms used in written crochet patterns.
• The basket is worked in continuous rounds unless a section specifically directs otherwise.
• Place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of each continuous round and move it upward as you work.
• Beginning chains do not count as stitches unless the instructions specifically state otherwise.
• Do not turn the work unless directed.
• The right side of the basket-wall fabric faces outward. When the two base circles are joined with their wrong sides together, one right side faces the floor and the other right side faces the inside of the basket.
• Numbers in parentheses at the end of a round or row give the completed stitch total.
• Instructions inside brackets are repeated the number of times stated.
• Count the stitches after every increase round and before beginning the walls, rim and handles.
• The two reinforced base circles are worked from the same instructions and must match in stitch count and finished diameter before joining.

Finished Size and Skill Level

Designed finished size: Approximately 22 inches across the reinforced base and 15 inches tall from the bottom of the base to the level upper rim.

The raised side handles extend approximately 3½–4 inches above the rim, producing an overall height of approximately 18½–19 inches at the highest point of the handles.

The finished dimensions are based on working with the cord, hook and gauge specified in this pattern. Substituting another cord thickness, holding a different number of strands together or changing the hook size may alter the base diameter, wall height, handle shape and firmness of the basket.

Skill level: Intermediate.

You should be comfortable making a magic ring or alternate closed-circle start, working single crochet in continuous rounds, increasing evenly, maintaining a large stitch count, joining two matching base circles, working through selected loops and crocheting raised handles directly onto a finished rim.

Materials and Supplies

• Basket cord: Approximately 700–800 yards of firm 5 mm braided cotton cord or another low-stretch cotton rope yarn
• 10 mm crochet hook: For the reinforced base, basket walls, upper rim and raised handles
• Locking stitch markers: At least eight, including one contrasting marker for the beginning of each round
• Large blunt tapestry needle: For weaving in thick cotton-cord ends and securing the handle attachments
• Sharp scissors: Suitable for cutting thick cotton cord cleanly
• Flexible measuring tape: For checking the base diameter, wall height and handle placement
• Optional sewing clips: For holding the two base circles together before joining
• Optional base reinforcement: One flexible, smooth-edged plastic-canvas or polypropylene circle cut to the measurement given in the reinforced-base section

The cord quantity is an estimate because 5 mm cotton cords vary substantially in density, construction and length per spool.

This XXL basket includes two complete 22-inch base circles, a 14-inch-tall wall, two upper-rim rounds that bring the level basket body to approximately 15 inches and two four-row raised handles. Beginning with at least 700 yards is recommended.

Purchase approximately 800 yards, or one additional matching spool, when possible so gauge swatches, remade sections, long securing tails and individual tension differences do not leave the basket unfinished.

Purchase all basket cord from the same production lot when possible. Do not use the remaining cord for another project until the basket body, rim and raised handles are complete.

Joining a New Cord Spool

Because the estimated cord quantity may require several spools, plan each cord change before the current spool runs completely out.

Whenever possible, place a cord change in an ordinary single-crochet section on the inside or center-back area of the basket. Do not make a mid-spool cord change in the magic ring, the base Joining Round, Wall Round 1, either upper-rim round or any handle foundation, handle row or handle attachment.

1. Work the next single crochet until two loops remain on the hook, stopping before the final yarn over.
2. Drop the old cord. Using the new cord, yarn over and draw through both loops to complete the stitch. Leave a 12–18-inch tail from both the old cord and the new cord.
3. Continue crocheting with the new cord while maintaining the established gauge and tension. Gently tighten the two tails if the completed change stitch becomes loose, but do not pull it smaller than the surrounding stitches.
4. After the section is complete, weave each tail separately through the inside or wrong-side loops of at least six nearby stitches. Reverse direction and weave through at least four additional stitches before trimming. Do not rely on a knot alone to secure a structural cord change.

When a cord change is made in either base circle, secure and weave both tails into the wrong side before the two base layers are placed together. The tails must lie flat and remain completely enclosed after the base circles are joined.

If a spool is likely to end during an excluded structural section, undo enough stitches to move the cord change into an earlier ordinary single-crochet area. Begin each raised handle with enough uninterrupted cord to complete the foundation, all four handle rows and the required fastening tail.

Cord and Hook Recommendations

Basket cord: Use one strand of firm 5 mm braided cotton cord or another low-stretch cotton rope yarn that produces dense, supportive single crochet at the stated gauge.

The structure of this basket depends on firm cord rather than soft blanket yarn, loosely twisted macramé cord or another material that collapses under its own weight.

Crochet hook: Begin with a 10 mm crochet hook for the reinforced base, basket walls, upper rim and handles. The finished gauge is more important than the hook size printed on the cord label.

Use the same cord thickness throughout the basket. Do not switch to a softer or thinner cord partway through the base, walls, rim or handles because the change can create an uneven circumference, weak area or visible shift in stitch size.

Before beginning the basket, crochet the gauge swatch with the exact cord and hook you intend to use. The fabric should feel firm and substantial, but the hook should still pass through each stitch without being forced.

Gauge and Structure Guidance

Basket-body gauge: 8 single crochet stitches and 8 rows measure approximately 4 inches using one strand of 5 mm braided cotton cord and a 10 mm crochet hook.

Gauge controls the finished base diameter, wall height, handle placement and firmness of the basket. Measure without stretching or compressing the stitches.

Make the Basket-Body Gauge Swatch

1. Chain 13.
2. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each remaining chain. (12 sts)
3. Chain 1 and turn. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.
4. Single crochet in each stitch across. (12 sts)
5. Chain 1 and turn. Repeat the previous single-crochet row, chaining 1 and turning after every row except the final row, until the swatch contains 12 rows. Maintain 12 stitches in every row.
6. Measure a 4-inch section near the center, avoiding the foundation chain and outside edges.

If fewer than 8 stitches measure 4 inches, the fabric is too loose and the basket will be larger and more flexible. Try a smaller hook or firmer cord.

If more than 8 stitches measure 4 inches, the fabric is too tight and the basket will be smaller. Try a larger hook.

Base-Diameter Checkpoints

When the basket-body gauge is correct, each base circle should measure approximately:

• After Round 6: 5½–6 inches across with 36 stitches
• After Round 12: 11–12 inches across with 72 stitches
• After Round 18: 17–18 inches across with 108 stitches
• After Round 22: 20½–21½ inches across with 132 stitches
• After Round 23: 21½–22½ inches across with 138 stitches

Measure straight across the center while the circle lies flat and unstretched. Both base circles must contain 138 stitches and measure within ¼ inch of one another before joining.

A slight tendency to curve at the outer edge may relax when the layers are joined, but the base should not form a bowl or develop pronounced ripples. Correct persistent cupping, ruffling or uneven tension before continuing.

Crochet Abbreviations

• BLO: Back loop only
• ch: Chain
• FO: Fasten off
• inc: Work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch
• MR: Magic ring
• rep: Repeat
• rnd: Round
• sc: Single crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• st: Stitch
• sts: Stitches

Work the basket in continuous rounds unless a section specifically directs otherwise. Do not slip stitch at the end of a continuous round. Move the beginning-of-round marker into the first stitch of each new round.

Reinforced Basket Base

Use the basket cord and the 10 mm crochet hook. Work two identical base circles in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn.

If the firm cord will not close smoothly in a magic ring, chain 2 and work the 6 stitches of Round 1 into the second chain from the hook.

Base Circle — Make 2

Round 1: Make an MR. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and place a stitch marker in the first sc. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc in next st, inc in next st] 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: [Sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (36 sts)

Round 7: [Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 6 times. (42 sts)

Round 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (48 sts)

Round 9: [Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] 6 times. (54 sts)

Round 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (60 sts)

Round 11: [Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] 6 times. (66 sts)

Round 12: [Sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (72 sts)

Round 13: [Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] 6 times. (78 sts)

Round 14: [Sc in next 12 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (84 sts)

Round 15: [Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 7 sts] 6 times. (90 sts)

Round 16: [Sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (96 sts)

Round 17: [Sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] 6 times. (102 sts)

Round 18: [Sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (108 sts)

Round 19: [Sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 9 sts] 6 times. (114 sts)

Round 20: [Sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (120 sts)

Round 21: [Sc in next 9 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 10 sts] 6 times. (126 sts)

Round 22: [Sc in next 20 sts, inc in next st] 6 times. (132 sts)

Round 23: [Sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 11 sts] 6 times. (138 sts)

After Round 23, each circle should measure approximately 21½–22½ inches across while lying flat and unstretched.

Fasten off the first base circle. Securely weave in its center tail and fastening-off tail now because they will become inaccessible after joining.

Do not fasten off the second base circle. Securely weave in its center starting tail before placing the two layers together.

Join the Two Base Circles

Place the fastened-off first base circle on a flat surface as the lower layer with its right side facing downward and its wrong side facing upward.

Place the second base circle on top with its wrong side facing the lower circle and its right side facing upward. The working loop from the second circle must remain on the upper outside edge.

Align the beginning-of-round stitches and match all 138 stitches around the perimeter. Secure the layers with clips or locking stitch markers at several evenly spaced points.

Before beginning the Joining Round, choose either the standard double-base method or the optional enclosed-insert method below.

Standard Double Base Without an Insert

Joining Round: With the working loop from the upper second circle still on the hook, insert the hook through both loops of the next stitch on the second circle and through both loops of the corresponding stitch on the lower first circle.

Work 1 sc through both layers. Continue working 1 sc through every matching pair of stitches around. (138 sts)

Work through exactly one stitch from each circle every time. Skipping a pair will gather the edge, while working twice into a pair will cause flaring.

Optional Enclosed Base Insert

Measure the completed crocheted base before cutting the flexible, smooth-edged insert. Cut the insert approximately 1 inch smaller than the actual base diameter. A base measuring 22 inches across requires an insert approximately 21 inches across, leaving about ½ inch of clearance around the full perimeter.

Before joining the layers, place the insert temporarily on the lower base circle to confirm that it fits completely inside the crocheted edge without pressing against or extending beyond any stitch. Trim and smooth the perimeter again if necessary, then remove the insert and set it aside. Do not place it permanently between the base layers yet; it will be inserted after the first 69 matching stitch pairs have been joined.

Test the flexibility by gently curving the insert into a broad U shape without forming a sharp fold. Release it on a flat surface. It must return to a flat shape without cracking, creasing, forming a permanent curl or producing a sharp edge. Omit the insert if it fails this test.

Joining Round With Insert: With the working loop from the upper second circle still on the hook, work 1 sc through each matching pair of stitches for the first 69 stitches.

Leave the remaining 69 matching stitch pairs unworked so half of the base remains open.

Gently curve the insert without sharply folding or creasing it. Slide it through the open half of the base and center it between the two crocheted layers.

Confirm that the insert lies flat, remains fully inside the outer edge and does not force the joined portion outward.

Continue the Joining Round by working 1 sc through each of the remaining 69 matching stitch pairs. (138 sts)

Do not force a rigid insert through the opening. Omit the insert if the selected material cannot flex without cracking, creasing or developing sharp edges.

Whichever joining method was used, the completed reinforced base should lie flat with an even outer edge and no open spaces between the layers.

Before beginning the wall, count the completed Joining Round and confirm that it contains exactly 138 single crochet stitches. Check that the joined edge remains flat and circular without gathering, flaring or a skipped stitch pair.

Because the two base circles were joined with their wrong sides together, a right side remains exposed on both faces of the reinforced base. Do not fasten off. Continue directly to Wall Round 1 with the same working loop.

Basket-Wall Transition and Sturdy Walls

Continue with the basket cord and 10 mm crochet hook. The joining seam remains at the bottom outer edge.

Establish the Basket Orientation

The beginning-of-round marker will remain at the center back of the basket.

Count 69 stitches from that marker and place a contrasting marker between stitches 69 and 70 to mark the center front.

Place another marker between stitches 34 and 35 and another between stitches 103 and 104. These two markers identify the centers of the raised side handles.

Turn the Base Upward

Wall Round 1: Working in the BLO of each stitch from the Joining Round, sc in each st around. (138 sts)

The unused front-loop ridge creates the defined fold between the flat reinforced base and the upright basket walls.

After completing Wall Round 1, turn the forming basket if necessary so the right side of the wall faces outward and the unused front-loop ridge sits around the outside base fold. Do not turn the crochet work or reverse the working direction. Simply push the reinforced base through the opening to orient the forming basket correctly.

Place the basket on a flat surface and gently encourage the new round to rise without stretching the stitches or forcing the wall outward.

Build the Straight Basket Walls

Wall Rounds 2–28: Sc in each st around. Do not join or turn. (138 sts after every round)

Move all orientation markers upward every four or five rounds while keeping them in the same stitch columns.

Count regularly. An accidental increase will cause the basket to flare, while a missed stitch will pull the wall inward.

After Wall Round 28, the basket wall should measure approximately 14 inches from the outer base fold to the working edge.

Before beginning the rim, confirm that:

• The working round contains exactly 138 stitches.
• The walls remain cylindrical without noticeable flaring or narrowing.
• The center-front marker remains directly opposite the center-back marker.
• The two side-handle markers remain directly opposite one another.
• The wall height measures approximately 14 inches from the outer base fold.
• The reinforced base lies flat without rocking.

Check the Wall Firmness Before Continuing

Place the empty basket upright on its reinforced base without holding the sides. The walls should support the circular opening and remain standing under their own weight.

Gently press one side inward approximately 1–2 inches and release it. The wall should recover most of its upright shape rather than remaining folded or collapsing across the opening.

If the stitch gauge is correct but the walls cannot support the empty basket, the selected cord is too soft or stretchy for this project.

The upper rim and raised handles will not correct an unsupported basket body and may add more weight to the wall. Remake the structural basket with firmer low-stretch cord rather than adding wire, exposed rigid supports or other internal materials not included in this pattern.

Raised Handles and Firm Upper Rim

Continue with the basket cord and 10 mm crochet hook.

Complete the Level Upper Rim

Rim Rounds 29–30: Sc in each st around. Do not join or turn. (138 sts after every round)

After Rim Round 30, the level basket body should measure approximately 15 inches from the bottom of the reinforced base to the upper edge.

Sl st loosely in each of the next 2 sts to smooth the end of the continuous round.

Fasten off and weave the tail securely through the inside loops of several stitches in one direction. Reverse direction and weave through several more stitches before trimming.

Number the Upper-Rim Stitches

Use the 138 single crochet stitches of Rim Round 30 for all handle-placement counting.

The rim stitch aligned with the center-back beginning-of-round marker is stitch 1. Count forward from stitch 1 in the same direction the basket rounds were worked until all 138 rim stitches are numbered.

Do not count the two smoothing slip stitches as additional rim stitches. They were worked into existing Rim Round 30 stitches and do not change the 138-stitch numbering.

Handle Working Orientation

Before joining the cord for either handle, hold the basket with the outside wall facing you and the level upper rim running horizontally.

Form each foundation chain so it arches upward on the outside of the basket rather than falling into the storage opening.

The foundation chain forms the upper edge of the finished handle. Work the four single-crochet rows into the space between the foundation arch and the level rim so the handle grows downward toward the rim, not upward above the foundation chain.

Begin both handles from this same outside-facing orientation. As you turn after each handle row, keep the growing handle positioned against the outside of the basket so both handles finish with matching visible surfaces and attachment edges.

After attaching the foundation chain to the second rim point, chain 1 and turn. Work Handle Row 1 back across all 24 foundation chains toward the first attachment point. Each following row is worked back across the same 24 handle stitches toward the opposite attachment side.

Work every handle attachment slip stitch firmly enough to secure the handle but not so tightly that it pulls the rim downward, draws the attachment points together or shortens the handle arch.

Each handle row contains exactly 24 single crochet stitches.

The slip stitch worked into the rim at the end of a handle row is an attachment stitch only. After chaining 1 and turning, skip that rim slip stitch and work the first single crochet into the first actual handle stitch.

Do not count or work into the rim slip stitch as part of the next 24-stitch handle row.

First Raised Handle

The first handle is centered over the side marker between stitches 34 and 35.

Using the established Rim Round 30 numbering, identify stitches 26, 27, 28, 41, 42 and 43.

Leave a 24-inch starting tail, then join the basket cord with a sl st in rim stitch 28. Keep the starting tail on the inside of the basket for securing after the handle is complete.

Handle Foundation: Ch 24 loosely, keeping the chain untwisted. Sl st into rim stitch 41.

Before beginning Handle Row 1, stand the basket upright and gently shape the 24-chain foundation into an arch.

It should span the marked rim section without pulling stitches 28 and 41 toward one another and should rise approximately 3½–4 inches above the level upper rim.

If the arch is too short or pulls the rim inward, remove it and remake the same 24 chains with looser chain tension.

If it rises substantially higher than 4 inches or sags loosely, remake the same 24 chains with slightly firmer tension. Do not change the chain count.

Handle Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 chains. Sl st into rim stitch 27. (24 sts)

Handle Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 42. (24 sts)

Handle Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 26. (24 sts)

Handle Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 43. (24 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch ending tail.

Using the starting tail, weave repeatedly through the first handle attachment area and nearby rim stitches. Reverse direction and weave through several more stitches.

Secure the ending tail through the opposite handle attachment area in the same way.

Trim both tails only after gently pulling on the handle to confirm that neither attachment point shifts or loosens.

Second Raised Handle

The second handle is centered over the side marker between stitches 103 and 104.

Using the established Rim Round 30 numbering, identify stitches 95, 96, 97, 110, 111 and 112.

Leave a 24-inch starting tail, then join the basket cord with a sl st in rim stitch 97. Keep the starting tail on the inside of the basket for securing after the handle is complete.

Handle Foundation: Ch 24 loosely, keeping the chain untwisted. Sl st into rim stitch 110.

Before beginning Handle Row 1, stand the basket upright and compare this 24-chain arch with the completed first handle.

The two foundations must span matching rim sections, rise to the same approximate height and remain directly opposite one another without pulling the rim inward.

If the second arch does not match the first, remove it and remake the same 24 chains with adjusted tension. Do not add or remove chains.

Handle Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 chains. Sl st into rim stitch 96. (24 sts)

Handle Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 111. (24 sts)

Handle Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 95. (24 sts)

Handle Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 24 handle sts. Sl st into rim stitch 112. (24 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch ending tail.

Secure the starting and ending tails through their respective handle attachment areas and nearby rim stitches exactly as directed for the first handle.

Trim the tails only after confirming that both attachment points remain firm when the handle is gently pulled.

Each handle foundation attaches to rim points approximately 6½ inches apart and should form an open arch approximately 6 inches wide.

Because the four handle rows are secured progressively across three rim stitches at each end, the complete reinforced attachment area will extend approximately 8½–9 inches along the rim.

Each handle should rise approximately 3½–4 inches above the level rim.

Both handles must contain 24 stitches in every row, have the same number of rows and sit directly opposite one another.

After all four rows are complete, stand the basket upright and measure each finished handle from the level rim to the highest point of the arch. Both handles should rise approximately 3½–4 inches and should match one another closely without pulling the rim inward.

Do not stretch or compress the finished handles to force the complete reinforced attachment area to measure only 6 inches.

Test the Handle Attachments

Place the empty basket upright and lift it only a few inches by both handles.

Watch the first-handle attachment stitches at 26–28 and 41–43 and the second-handle attachment stitches at 95–97 and 110–112.

The rim should remain level, and no attachment stitch, securing tail or nearby rim stitch should stretch, shift or loosen.

Repeat the test with a small amount of lightweight filling such as folded blankets or soft toys.

Stop immediately if the rim dips, the handle ends pull apart or any attachment area moves. Reinforce the affected area before use.

Continue to support the reinforced base with both hands whenever the basket contains heavier items.

Remove all remaining orientation and handle-placement markers after the basket has passed the handle test.

Completed Basket Check

• The reinforced base lies flat without rocking.
• The basket measures approximately 21½–22½ inches across the base.
• The level basket body measures approximately 15 inches tall.
• The walls stand upright when the basket is empty.
• The wall and rim rounds contain exactly 138 stitches.
• The two handles sit directly opposite one another.
• Each handle contains 24 stitches in each of four rows.
• The handles rise approximately 3½–4 inches above the level rim.
• The overall height measures approximately 18½–19 inches at the highest point of the handles.
• No cord end, handle attachment or optional base insert is loose or exposed.

Final Finishing and Shaping

Place the empty basket upright on a flat surface and inspect it from the front, back, sides and above.

Gently shape the reinforced base into an even circle. Smooth the wall upward from the base fold to the level rim without stretching the stitches or pulling the circumference out of shape.

Arrange both raised handles so they form matching arches and remain centered over the opposite sides of the basket.

If the basket needs light shaping and the cord manufacturer permits damp cleaning, lightly dampen the basket and reshape the base, walls, rim and handles by hand.

Do not stretch, compress or force the basket beyond the stated measurements. Allow it to air dry completely while standing upright on a flat surface.

Do not apply high heat. Heat may shrink cotton cord, weaken attachment areas or warp an enclosed plastic-canvas or polypropylene base insert.

Secure and Weave In Every Tail

Inspect the inside and outside of the basket for remaining cord tails.

Weave each tail through several nearby stitches, reverse direction and weave through several more stitches before trimming.

Pay particular attention to the center of each base circle, the base joining round, the end of the rim and the three attachment stitches at each end of both handles.

No knot, cord end or long strand should remain exposed where it could catch on stored items or small fingers.

Final Structural Inspection

• The two base layers are joined through all 138 matching stitch pairs.
• The reinforced base lies flat and does not rock.
• An optional insert, when used, remains completely enclosed and cannot be felt protruding through the edge.
• The wall rises cleanly from the back-loop base fold.
• The walls remain cylindrical without a visible increase, decrease or weakened area.
• The level upper rim contains 138 stitches and does not pull inward.
• Both raised handles contain 24 stitches in each of four rows.
• The handle attachment stitches remain firm when the empty basket is lifted a few inches.
• All starting and fastening-off tails are securely woven in.

Care Instructions

Check the care directions supplied by the cord manufacturer before cleaning. Cotton cord may shrink, soften, bleed dye or lose some of its original structure when washed.

For routine cleaning: Empty the basket, remove loose dust with a soft brush or vacuum upholstery attachment and blot small marks with a clean damp cloth.

If the basket contains an enclosed insert: Spot clean unless the manufacturers of both the cord and insert specifically permit another cleaning method. Avoid soaking and high heat, which may warp the insert.

If no insert was used: Hand washing may be possible when the cord manufacturer permits it. Use cool water and a small amount of mild detergent.

Support the wet basket from underneath rather than lifting it by the raised handles.

Do not wring, twist or stretch the basket. Press out excess water with clean towels, reshape the circular base and walls and arrange both handles into matching arches.

Air dry the basket completely while it stands upright on a flat surface.

Do not use a clothes dryer or direct high heat unless the cord manufacturer specifically allows it.

After cleaning, inspect the rim, base seam, handle rows and handle attachment points. Repair any loose or damaged area before returning the basket to use.

Nursery Safety and Use Notes

This large crochet basket is intended for nursery storage and decoration. It is not a toy, infant sleep product, seat, carrier or climbing container.

• Keep the basket outside the crib, bassinet, play yard and every other infant sleep space.
• Place it where a baby cannot pull the handles or stored objects into a sleep area.
• Keep any optional base insert completely enclosed with no exposed, cracked or protruding edges.
• Do not allow a child to sit, stand, climb or hide inside the basket.
• Do not lift or carry a child in the basket.
• Do not suspend the basket from hooks, pegs, furniture or wall hardware.
• Support the reinforced base with both hands when moving a filled basket.
• Do not carry the basket by its handles when it contains heavy books, wooden toys or other dense objects.
• Store the basket on the floor or another stable low surface.
• Do not place it on a dresser, shelf or changing table where it could fall.
• Inspect the base, rim, handles and cord regularly for stretching, unraveling or damage.

Discontinue use until any loose handle, exposed insert, damaged cord or weakened attachment area has been repaired.

The basket is best suited to lightweight blankets, soft toys, diapers, extra sheets, swaddles and other everyday nursery essentials.

Large Crochet Basket Storage Ideas

This XXL crochet basket provides substantial open storage without requiring a separate liner or a rigid exposed frame. Its simple cylindrical shape works in neutral, modern, woodland, farmhouse and traditional nursery designs.

Beside a Nursery Reading Chair

Use the basket for lightweight blankets, small pillows and favorite soft toys. Keep heavier items near the bottom and support the reinforced base whenever the basket is moved.

Near the Toy Area

The wide opening makes it easy to collect fabric toys, soft blocks and stuffed animals. Avoid filling the basket above the level rim because excessive pressure may distort the walls and handles.

Next to a Dresser or Changing Area

Use the basket for packages of diapers, extra crib sheets, swaddles, burp cloths or folded changing-pad covers.

Keep it far enough from the crib that a baby cannot pull the handles, basket or stored items into the sleep space.

For Blanket Storage

Fold or loosely roll lightweight nursery blankets before placing them inside. Do not force bulky blankets into the basket because overfilling may stretch the upper rim.

For Closet Organization

The basket can hold outgrown clothing, seasonal bedding or soft accessories when placed on the closet floor or another stable low surface.

For additional projects and organization ideas, browse the free crochet basket patterns, nursery storage ideas and baby room organization ideas.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Free Large Crochet Basket Pattern

Can I use a different cotton cord?

Yes, provided the replacement cord is firm, low stretch and capable of matching the stated basket-body gauge. Cords labeled as the same diameter can vary considerably in density, softness and flexibility.

Why does the basket use two base circles?

The double base adds thickness, distributes stored weight more evenly and reduces sagging. Both circles must contain 138 stitches and measure within ¼ inch of one another before they are joined.

Do I have to use the optional base insert?

No. The two crocheted base circles are required, but the enclosed insert is optional.

Omit the insert when the cord and gauge produce a sufficiently firm base or when the selected material cannot flex safely without cracking, creasing or developing sharp edges.

What should I do if the base cups?

Confirm that every increase was completed and that each round contains the stated stitch count. Persistent cupping may indicate overly tight tension, cord that is too rigid or a hook that is too small.

What should I do if the base ripples?

Count carefully to rule out accidental increases. Rippling may also result from loose tension, an oversized hook or cord that is too flexible for the stated gauge.

Why is the first wall round worked in the back loops?

Working Wall Round 1 in the back loops leaves a visible front-loop ridge around the base. This ridge creates the defined fold that helps the wall rise vertically from the reinforced base.

What should I do if the walls feel too soft?

Check that the basket was worked to gauge with firm 5 mm cotton cord. Soft cord, loose tension or an oversized hook can create walls that collapse even when the written stitch counts are correct.

The rim and handles will not correct unsupported walls. Remake the structural basket with firmer, low-stretch cord rather than adding wire or exposed rigid supports.

Why are the handles crocheted after the level rim is complete?

Working the raised handles directly onto the completed rim allows them to form defined arches above the basket body.

Spreading the four handle rows across three rim stitches at each end also distributes lifting pressure more evenly than attaching every row to one stitch.

Why does each handle use 24 chains?

The handle rows and rim attachment positions are designed for a foundation containing exactly 24 chains. Because foundation-chain length varies with individual chain tension, measure the arch before beginning Handle Row 1.

Remake the same 24 chains with looser or firmer tension when necessary so the foundation rises approximately 3½–4 inches above the level rim without pulling the rim inward. Do not change the chain count.

Can the handles support books or wooden toys?

The handles are intended primarily for an empty basket or one holding lightweight items.

Support the reinforced base with both hands whenever the basket contains heavy books, wooden toys or other dense objects.

Can I make the basket smaller or larger?

Changing the number of base rounds also changes the wall circumference, handle positions and finished proportions.

Complete the pattern at the stated size to preserve the written 138-stitch wall, rim and handle-placement calculations.

Why are the basket rounds worked continuously?

Continuous rounds avoid a prominent joined seam. Move the beginning-of-round marker after every round so the stitch count and orientation remain accurate.

Can the basket be machine washed?

Machine washing is not recommended unless the cord manufacturer permits it and no heat-sensitive insert was used.

Spot cleaning is the safest routine method for preserving the base, wall structure and handle shape.

Can I use soft blanket yarn instead of cotton cord?

Soft blanket yarn is not recommended for this XXL pattern. It may match the stitch gauge while still producing walls and handles that lack the required structural firmness.

How much weight can the basket hold?

The pattern does not assign a tested weight rating because the result depends on the selected cord, individual tension, handle attachment and whether an insert was used.

Use the basket for lightweight nursery storage, test the handles before use and support the base whenever the filled basket is moved.