By Jan Bay
A Salt Dough Santa Handprint Ornament is a fun Christmas baby craft that turns a baby's tiny handprint into a Christmas keepsake! Instead of painting an ordinary handprint to look like Santa, this design uses the impression of baby's hand as his flowing white beard, complete with a smiling face, curly mustache, and bright red Santa hat. I took a different approach to give it a more elegant look. I've given Santa his own decorative arched frame with a little stitched border, engraved stars, and pretty scrollwork at the bottom. A burgundy velvet ribbon finishes everything off. It looks wonderfully detailed, but the decorations are designed to be made with ordinary homemade salt dough and basic craft tools. And there's a free printable pattern to help you get the shape and placement just right!
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You don't need a collection of expensive clay tools to make this Santa ornament. Most of the work can be done with a rolling pin, a toothpick, a straw, and a small paintbrush. The printable takes care of the arched shape and helps you keep Santa's face and little Christmas decorations in the right places.
The one thing I'd spend a little extra time on is the dough. We want it firm enough to hold baby's handprint without losing those tiny finger impressions.
This is one batch of dough. The actual amount needed will depend on how large you make the plaque and how much dough is lost when cutting the shape. Keep the extra dough covered while you work.
I'd skip specialty molds, glitter, and extra decorations. Santa already has plenty of personality with his little handprint beard and curled mustache.
Salt dough contains a large amount of salt and must not be eaten. Keep it away from baby's mouth. Have another adult help support your baby while you make the impression, and wash baby's hand afterward. Don't force the fingers into position or keep trying if your baby becomes upset.
Keep fresh dough, loose decorations, and the finished ornament out of reach of children and pets. The ASPCA explains why salt dough ornaments can be dangerous to pets, even after they've dried.
We'll use ordinary flour, salt, and water. No special baking ingredients are needed, and you don't want self-rising flour because the ornament needs to keep its shape during drying.
For this particular design, I'd make the dough slightly firmer than I would for a simple cookie-cutter ornament. We're adding a face and small decorations around an actual hand impression, so a sticky dough would be more trouble than it's worth.
Don't add the entire cup of water at once. You may not need all of it.
Pinch off a small piece and press a fingertip into it. The impression should stay visible when you lift your finger. If the dough sticks or spreads, work in a little more flour and try again.
Next, roll that test piece to about 1/2 inch thick. It should hold its shape without cracking along the edges.
That's what you're looking for. Smooth enough to capture a handprint, but firm enough to support the decorated Santa face.
The free printable is designed around the Santa ornament shown in the finished example image. Page 1 gives you the full-size arched cutting outline and hanging-hole position. Page 2 is a photographic guide for placing Santa's face, hat, holly, stars, and bottom scrollwork. Use it to check the arrangement rather than tracing it onto the dough.
Download the Free Salt Dough Santa Handprint Ornament Pattern (PDF)
The handprint area is a placement guide, not a stencil for making an artificial hand. You'll use baby's real hand to create the impression.
These are planned template measurements, not measurements from a completed and dried ornament. Your baby's actual hand size will determine whether the standard outline needs enlarging.
If baby's hand won't fit comfortably inside the suggested area, enlarge the Page 1 cutting template. At 110%, the outer plaque would measure approximately 5.9 inches wide and 8.5 inches tall. That size may require larger paper or tiled printing. Page 2 is a photographic placement guide, not a full-size stencil, so you don't need to enlarge it. Just adjust the decorative details to fit the larger plaque while keeping the same arrangement.
Don't try to squeeze baby's fingers into a pattern that's too small. Make the ornament larger instead.
Here's the fun part! Baby's handprint becomes Santa's beard, with the palm just beneath his mustache and the five digits spreading downward toward the bottom of the plaque.
I'd get the dough ready before bringing baby over. It's much easier to make a nice impression when everything is already in place.
Don't cut the arched shape yet. First, we'll make the handprint so we can position the outline around it.
The wrist belongs toward the upper part of the plaque, just beneath Santa's mustache. The fingers point downward. One thumb and four fingers should make five separate impressions.
Check the space against the printable before you begin. The upper part of the handprint needs room for Santa's face, while the fingertips need to finish above the engraved scrollwork at the bottom.
I'd leave at least 1/2 inch between the fingertips and the planned bottom decorations, if baby's hand size allows.
You want a recognizable handprint, not the deepest impression possible. For a plaque starting at 1/2 inch thick, a working target is to leave at least approximately 1/4 inch of dough beneath the deepest impression.
A real baby's fingers won't look perfectly spaced or identical. That's part of the charm. Don't carve extra fingers or reshape the impression to look like a drawing.
Before you go any farther, count the impressions. There should be one thumb and four fingers. Look for a recognizable palm and make sure none of the fingertips touch the planned scrollwork.
If the handprint is smeared, reroll the dough and try another time. Don't try to fix a badly blurred impression by carving in new fingers.
Checkpoint: The handprint is centered, the wrist is toward Santa's face, and all five digits are visible.
The arched plaque is one of my favorite details in this design. It gives Santa his own little frame, almost like a miniature Christmas portrait.
Use the printable for the outline. There's no reason to guess at the curves.
Take your time around the upper arch. The hanging hole needs enough dough around it, and a thin pointed tip would be more likely to break.
Use very little water. Too much can make the surface sticky and spoil the nearby handprint.
Don't make the hole larger just to fit a wide ribbon. A narrow ribbon or hanger can pass through it without removing more dough.
Shape checkpoint: Your ornament should be a single arched plaque with one real handprint, rounded lower corners, and a centered hanging hole.
Santa's hat gives the ornament most of its Christmas color. We'll paint the main hat directly onto the dry plaque, but make the cream brim and round pom-pom from a little fresh dough.
That keeps the raised details manageable instead of building a heavy, sculpted hat on top of an already thick ornament.
The red area should look like a floppy Santa hat that bends toward the right side. Don't cut this section away from the plaque.
Keep the brim low. It doesn't need to look like a thick roll of dough.
The pom-pom should sit near Santa's right cheek, as shown in the finished example. Keep enough space around it for the stitched border.
Hat checkpoint: You should have a lightly engraved hat outline, one cream curved brim, and one small rounded pom-pom. Leave the main hat area unpainted until the ornament is completely dry.
Santa doesn't need a complicated expression. Two smiling eyes, a pair of curved eyebrows, a round nose, and that wonderful curled mustache are plenty.
The mustache is made in two small pieces, with the nose covering their join in the middle.
Make the eyes similar in size, but don't chase perfect symmetry. Small variations suit a handmade Santa.
Keep the mustache close to the plaque. A large raised curl might look pretty in a picture, but thin projecting ends could break after drying.
Don't add a separate beard-shaped piece. Baby's actual handprint is the beard, and it should stay the center of attention.
Face checkpoint: Santa has two engraved eyebrows, two smiling eyes, two curled mustache halves, one rounded nose, and a real five-digit handprint below.
The little holly decoration sits on the left side of Santa's hat brim. It's one of those details that makes the ornament feel special, but we don't need to make it complicated.
Two flattened leaves and three small berries will give you the look in the example without adding a heavy decoration.
Make the leaves small enough that they don't cover Santa's face or reach the stitched border. They'll be painted muted green after drying.
The berries should sit close to the surface. Large round berries would be more likely to come loose, and they aren't needed to get the look we're after.
Holly checkpoint: You should now have two pointed leaves with engraved veins and exactly three small berries at their base.
Now let's finish the decorative frame. The stitched marks run around the inside of the arched plaque, with a small star on each side of Santa's head and two matching scrolls beneath baby's handprint.
I'd keep all these details shallow. We want them to look engraved into the dough, not cut through it.
The border is made of individual little dashes, not one continuous carved line. Their number will depend on the exact printed size and your spacing.
Try to keep the marks approximately the same length and depth. If you need to adjust the spacing slightly around the arch, that's fine.
You don't need to cut out tiny stars or attach anything here. A few shallow lines will give you the engraved starbursts shown in the example.
Don't make deep grooves or complicated raised flourishes. The simple engraved curves are enough to frame the bottom of the handprint.
With the two side stars, the stitched border, and the little star at the bottom, the plaque should now look very close to the finished design.
Look at baby's handprint again. The five impressions should still be visible, and none of the decorations should cover the fingertips.
If a small piece is loose, reattach it now while the dough is fresh. If a groove is too deep, smooth it before the ornament dries.
Because we're making a fairly large ornament with a 1/2-inch-thick base and a few raised decorations, I wouldn't rush the drying. The most important thing is to let the dough harden all the way through without puffing up or cracking.
The temperature below is a low-temperature drying approach, not a tested baking schedule for this exact ornament.
Don't rely on a fixed baking time. A thick handprint ornament can take considerably longer than a thin cookie-cutter decoration. The actual time depends on the dough, oven, impression depth, and room humidity.
Yes, but expect it to take much longer. Leave the ornament on a flat, dry surface in a well-ventilated room.
Check it daily. When the plaque is firm enough to handle, inspect the underside and turn it carefully if needed. A thick ornament may take many days or longer to dry fully in humid conditions.
Don't paint or seal dough that still feels damp. Trapped moisture can damage the finished ornament later.
If the upper hanging area has cracked or feels fragile, don't suspend the ornament from the ribbon. A sturdy display stand is a better choice.
Important: The thickness, raised decorations, and hanging strength still need to be checked with an actual dried sample. These instructions describe the intended construction rather than a physically tested finished ornament.
Once Santa is completely dry, it's time to give him some Christmas color. I like the contrast of the cranberry-red hat against the natural cream dough, with just a little green on the holly leaves and three red berries.
Keep the handprint beard natural. There's no reason to paint over baby's little fingers after you've worked so hard to capture them!
The hat should have a slightly curved, floppy shape that hangs toward Santa's right cheek. Keep the color inside the engraved outline.
Use a tiny amount of pink craft paint on a nearly dry brush. Dab a little color onto the cheeks just beneath the eyes, then blend it lightly so the color fades toward the edges.
Don't add two large painted circles. The example has only a faint hint of rosy cheeks.
Keep Santa's nose, mustache, eyebrows, eyes, handprint beard, pom-pom, stitched border, stars, and lower scrollwork the natural cream color of the salt dough.
The shallow engraved lines will provide their own shadows. You don't need black paint to outline every detail.
A sealer can help protect the finish, but it won't make salt dough waterproof. Keep the ornament away from moisture.
Because this is a larger, thicker ornament, don't assume the hanging hole can support its finished weight. Check the dried piece carefully. If there's any doubt, display Santa on a sturdy stand instead.
And there's your Santa! His little handprint beard is the part that makes him special, but I think that arched frame and those pretty Christmas details give him a personality all his own.
There are a few things I'd watch for with this particular ornament. Most can be corrected before the dough dries, which is another good reason not to rush.
A thumb impression can sometimes look like another finger, especially if it overlaps the palm. Before cutting the dough, count one thumb and four fingers. If the impression is confusing or badly smeared, reroll the dough and try again rather than carving or adding digits by hand.
Enlarge the cutting template and decoration guide together. Don't shorten the fingertips or squeeze the fingers closer together just to fit the printed outline.
Keep enough room for Santa's face above the handprint and the engraved scrollwork beneath it.
The dough may be too firm, or the hand may not have made even contact. Try adjusting a fresh batch with a few drops of water and test it with your own fingertip first.
Use gentle pressure when making baby's impression. Don't force the hand downward to make the marks deeper.
Thick, unsupported pieces may dry differently from the plaque beneath them. Keep the brim, mustache, leaves, and berries small and low-profile. Attach each one to a lightly dampened, roughened spot while the dough is fresh.
If a piece develops a deep crack or becomes detached, don't leave it loose on an ornament that could be reached by a baby or pet.
Excessive heat or trapped air can cause salt dough to swell. Use all-purpose flour, avoid rolling air pockets into the dough, and dry it at a low temperature.
If the handprint or Santa's face becomes badly distorted, it may be better to remake the plaque than try to reshape it after drying.
Flatten the strip more before attaching it. The brim only needs a little height above the plaque to look raised. A thick rope can crowd Santa's face and may be harder to dry.
Don't hang the ornament from a damaged hole. A large salt dough plaque can be heavy, and a cracked hanging area may break under its own weight.
Display the ornament on a sturdy stand instead.
If the dough is still fresh, lightly roughen and dampen the contact area, then press the berry back into place.
For a fully dried ornament, use an adhesive suitable for porous decorative materials and follow its curing directions, or omit the loose piece. Keep any detached small parts away from children and pets.
This Santa is a little more elaborate than an ordinary salt dough ornament, so I'd choose a display spot where the raised decorations won't be bumped.
If the finished plaque is light enough and the hanging hole is sound, you can hang it on a well-supported Christmas tree branch. Keep it out of reach of children and pets.
A sturdy ornament stand is another nice option, especially if the finished piece is heavier than expected.
If you want to record baby's name and the Christmas when the handprint was made, tuck a little note into the storage box. That keeps the front of Santa's ornament looking just like the original design.
For another way to preserve baby's tiny hand, see my Baby Salt Dough Handprint Ornament. It uses a different decorative shape with leafy branches and a small cranberry-red accent.
Yes. The ornament is designed around an actual hand impression, with the wrist toward Santa's face and the five digits pointing downward. Use one thumb and four fingers. You don't need to sculpt artificial fingers.
For this larger Santa plaque, the drafted pattern starts with dough approximately 1/2 inch thick. Make the handprint shallow enough to leave a substantial layer of dough beneath the impression.
You can try, but newborn hands may be difficult to open for a clear impression. Have another adult help, use gentle pressure, and stop if your baby becomes uncomfortable. You can always try the craft at another time.
No. The smiling eyes and eyebrows are engraved directly into the plaque. Only the nose and two mustache halves are raised, along with the hat brim, pom-pom, holly leaves, and berries.
Yes. A rolling pin, ruler, straw, toothpick, small craft knife, and paintbrushes are enough for the basic construction. The printable gives you the cutting outline and a guide for placing the decorations.
A large, 1/2-inch-thick plaque can require several hours in a low oven at approximately 200°F (93°C), potentially much longer depending on the oven and dough. Air-drying can take many days. Don't paint or seal the ornament until the front, back, and thickest areas are fully dry.
You can, but the featured ornament leaves the handprint the natural cream color of the salt dough. That keeps the tiny finger impressions visible and gives the ornament its handmade appearance.
It may be. The plaque is larger and thicker than a typical small hanging ornament, and the raised decorations add some weight. Its finished weight and hanging strength have not been physically tested. Use a sturdy display stand if the hanging hole or upper edge cannot support it.
If you'd like more ideas for baby's first Christmas, visit my Salt Dough Baby Christmas Ornaments collection. It includes other ways to turn little hands and feet into handmade keepsakes.
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