Crochet Santa Hat With Beard Pattern

By Jan Bay

This crochet Santa hat with beard pattern combines a classic red Christmas hat with a detachable white crochet beard made from layered dimensional curls. After the "HO HO HO" duties for baby's first Christmas are done, the beard can easily be removed so Santa can enjoy his share of holiday snacks without staining it. The beard has a shaped mouth opening, a separate crocheted mustache and narrow attachment tabs that slip through discreet crocheted loops inside the brim without requiring buttons or hardware.

Worsted Weight Red and White Yarn

Supplies for the Santa Hat and Crochet Beard

You don't need specialty yarn for this one. In fact, I'd skip faux fur yarn completely. The curls are part of the design, and a smooth worsted yarn lets you actually see them instead of burying all that work in fuzz.

For the hat, use a rich Christmas red with a clean white for the brim, beard, mustache and pom-pom. Try to keep the two yarns reasonably close in thickness even if they're different brands.

• #4 medium/worsted weight yarn: approximately 200–225 yards red
• #4 medium/worsted weight yarn: approximately 350–400 yards white
• 5.5 mm crochet hook for the hat
• 5.0 mm crochet hook for the beard and mustache
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Pom-pom maker or a piece of cardboard for a 3 1/2-inch yarn pom-pom
• Flexible measuring tape

The yardage is calculated for the adult-size example shown here. Those little beard curls eat more yarn than they appear to, so I wouldn't start with a partial skein of white and hope for the best.

Finished Size and Fit

The hat is designed for an adult head approximately 21 to 23 inches around. At the stated gauge, the 72-stitch lower crown measures about 20 1/2 inches around before stretching, giving the hat enough ease to stay in place without making the brim look tight.

The red tapered crown should measure approximately 14 1/2 inches from the tip to the white color change. The finished white brim adds about 2 1/2 inches. Laid flat from the pom-pom end to the lower edge of the brim, expect roughly 17 inches before the crown is allowed to flop naturally to one side.

The beard foundation is approximately 11 1/2 inches across at its widest point and about 8 to 8 1/2 inches from the top of the cheek sections to the lower point. Once the longest crochet curls are added, the beard should finish close to 11 or 12 inches long.

The mouth opening is intentionally generous, approximately 3 1/2 inches wide and 2 inches high before the mustache is attached. Don't make that opening smaller just because your stitches will allow it. Santa still has to talk, laugh and get to the cookies.

This beard is for an adult costume piece. Don't put the beard, tabs or attachment loops on a baby or young child.

Gauge, Stitches and Abbreviations

Hat gauge: 14 hdc and 10 rounds = 4 inches.

Beard gauge: 14 sc and 16 rows = 4 inches.

Check the hat gauge before you get very far. Seventy-two hdc at this gauge gives you a calculated circumference of about 20 1/2 inches. If your stitches are noticeably wider, the hat can turn into a loose hood. If they're tighter, the brim may never reach an adult head comfortably.

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms. If you need to check an abbreviation, the Craft Yarn Council crochet abbreviation list is a useful reference.

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

st = stitch

sts = stitches

BLO = back loop only

sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together

rnd = round

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

Increase: Work 2 hdc in the indicated stitch.

Curl unit: Chain the number stated for that tier. Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 2 hdc in every chain back toward the beard foundation. The stitches force the chain into a spiral. Sl st into the foundation at the curl's attachment point. To reach the next attachment point, sl st loosely across the foundation stitches between the curls, then work the next curl from that stitch.

Don't straighten the finished curls. Let each one twist in whichever direction it naturally wants to go. A beard made from perfectly lined-up spirals would look much too tidy.

Crochet Santa Hat With Beard Pattern: Make the Hat

Start at the tip of the red crown and work downward. The increases are spaced farther apart than they would be in a regular beanie because we want the long taper shown in the example image, not a red stocking cap that suddenly balloons into a hat.

Use the 5.5 mm hook and red yarn.

Pattern note: The hat is worked in joined rounds. At the beginning of every round, ch 1 before working the first hdc. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first hdc unless the instructions specifically say otherwise.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 hdc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (6 sts)

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. (6 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 5. (12 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, *hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (18 sts)

Rnds 8–9: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (18 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (24 sts)

Rnds 11–12: Hdc evenly around. (24 sts)

Rnd 13: *Hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Rnds 14–15: Hdc evenly around. (30 sts)

Rnd 16: *Hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Rnds 17–18: Hdc evenly around. (36 sts)

Rnd 19: *Hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (42 sts)

Rnds 20–21: Hdc evenly around. (42 sts)

Rnd 22: *Hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (48 sts)

Rnds 23–24: Hdc evenly around. (48 sts)

Rnd 25: *Hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (54 sts)

Rnds 26–27: Hdc evenly around. (54 sts)

Rnd 28: *Hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (60 sts)

Rnds 29–30: Hdc evenly around. (60 sts)

Rnd 31: *Hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. (66 sts)

Rnds 32–33: Hdc evenly around. (66 sts)

Rnd 34: *Hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (72 sts)

Rnds 35–36: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (72 sts)

Stop here and measure before changing colors. The red crown should be close to 14 1/2 inches from the tip to the lower edge. A quarter-inch difference isn't worth chasing. A difference of an inch is.

If the hat circumference is right but the crown is shorter than 14 inches, add one plain 72-stitch round. If it is already longer than about 15 inches, don't add anything. Keep the final stitch count at 72.

On the final red stitch, complete the last yarn-over with white yarn so the color change is clean.

White Brim Rnd 1: With white, ch 1 and hdc in each st around. Join. (72 sts)

White Brim Rnds 2–6: Ch 1, hdc BLO in each st around. Join. (72 sts)

Fasten off white after Rnd 6 and weave in the color-change ends securely on the inside.

The BLO rounds give the white band enough body to read as a substantial crocheted brim without adding a second sewn-on piece. Let it sit flat. Don't fold it upward like a cuff because that would change the look we're making.

Pom-Pom: Make a dense white yarn pom-pom approximately 3 1/2 inches across. Leave two long tying strands. Pass those strands through separate stitches at the very tip of the hat, tie securely on the inside, then weave each strand several inches in different directions before trimming.

The crown should fall naturally toward one side under the weight of the pom-pom. You don't need to stitch the droop into place.

Crochet the Detachable Santa Beard

The beard is built in two stages. First you'll crochet a plain shaped foundation that handles the fit and keeps the mouth opening stable. Then you'll cover most of that foundation with separate graduated curls.

That foundation matters. If we tried to hang all those curls from a couple of strings, the beard would stretch, twist and start looking like fringe.

Use the 5.0 mm hook and white yarn.

Left Cheek

Ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (14 sts)

Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail. Set this piece aside.

Right Cheek

Repeat Rows 1–8 exactly as for the left cheek, but do not fasten off at the end of Row 8.

Lay both cheek pieces side by side with their Row 8 edges at the bottom and a gap between their inside edges. Position the right cheek so the working yarn is at its outside lower corner.

Joining Row 9: Ch 1. Sc across all 14 sts of the right cheek toward the mouth opening. Ch 12. With the left cheek facing the same direction, sc in the inside lower corner stitch of the left cheek and across the remaining 13 sts toward its outside edge. Turn. (40 sts including the 12 chains)

That chain becomes the lower edge of the mouth opening. Before going farther, make sure neither cheek is twisted.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each of the 14 cheek sts, sc in each of the 12 chains, sc in each of the final 14 sts. Turn. (40 sts)

Rows 11–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (40 sts)

Now start tapering the lower beard.

Shaping note: Rows 15 and 16 include their turning chains below. For Rows 17–34, ch 1 before the first sc of every row and turn at the end of every row. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

Row 15: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (38 sts)

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (38 sts)

Row 17: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (36 sts)

Row 18: Sc across. (36 sts)

Row 19: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (34 sts)

Row 20: Sc across. (34 sts)

Row 21: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (32 sts)

Row 22: Sc across. (32 sts)

Row 23: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (30 sts)

Row 24: Sc across. (30 sts)

Row 25: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (28 sts)

Row 26: Sc across. (28 sts)

Row 27: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (26 sts)

Row 28: Sc across. (26 sts)

Row 29: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (24 sts)

Row 30: Sc across. (24 sts)

Row 31: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (22 sts)

Row 32: Sc across. (22 sts)

Row 33: Sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (20 sts)

Row 34: Sc across. (20 sts)

Fasten off and weave in the shaping ends. Don't worry about making this plain foundation pretty. Very little of it should show once the curl layers are in place.

Before adding the curls, check the foundation. It should measure approximately 11 1/2 inches across at its widest point and about 8 to 8 1/2 inches from the top of the cheek sections to Row 34. The mouth opening should be close to 3 1/2 inches wide and 2 inches high. If those measurements are substantially different, check your gauge before covering the foundation with curls.

Add the Curl Layers

Hold the foundation with the right side facing you and the two cheek sections at the top. The curl tiers are attached across selected rows instead of every row. That spacing lets one tier overlap the next without turning the beard into a heavy white mat.

For each tier, join white yarn at the right-hand edge of the stated row and make the first curl near that edge. Place the last curl near the opposite edge, then distribute the remaining curl attachment points as evenly as possible between them. After each curl, sl st loosely along the foundation row to the next attachment point before making the next curl. The number of foundation stitches between curls will vary by tier as the beard narrows.

Upper cheek tier: Across Row 6 of each separate cheek section, make 3 curls per cheek using ch 8 for each curl. (6 curls total)

Tier 2: Across Row 12, make 10 curls using ch 9 for each curl.

Tier 3: Across Row 16, make 9 curls using ch 10 for each curl.

Tier 4: Across Row 20, make 8 curls using ch 11 for each curl.

Tier 5: Across Row 24, make 7 curls using ch 12 for each curl.

Tier 6: Across Row 28, make 6 curls using ch 13 for each curl.

Tier 7: Across Row 32, make 5 curls using ch 14 for each curl.

Bottom tier: Across Row 34, make 4 curls using ch 15 for each curl.

You should have approximately 55 curls altogether.

Let some twist clockwise and some counterclockwise. Let neighboring curls overlap. The lower four should hang a little farther than the tier above them so the beard finishes with that full rounded point shown in the example instead of a straight line across the bottom.

If one curl lands directly over another, shift its attachment point by a stitch. That's an appearance adjustment, not a change to the beard shaping.

Crochet the Santa Mustache

The mustache is separate because it gives you much better control over the mouth opening. Sewing a mustache onto the finished beard also lets you angle the ends slightly downward instead of having them stick straight across Santa's face.

Make two identical mustache lobes with the 5.0 mm hook and white yarn.

Mustache Lobe, make 2: Ch 15.

Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work: sl st in next ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in the final ch.

Turn the work so you can crochet along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain.

Working back along the opposite side, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sl st in final ch.

Fasten off, leaving an 18-inch sewing tail on each lobe.

Overlap the wider center ends of the two lobes by approximately 3 stitches. Sew them together through the back loops only so the joining stitches don't flatten the front.

Center the joined mustache above the mouth opening. Sew the center securely to the inside upper corners of the cheek sections, then add one or two small anchoring stitches about halfway along each lobe.

Leave the outer third of each mustache lobe free. That little bit of movement keeps the mustache from looking pasted onto the beard.

Check the opening again. The mustache can overlap the upper edge of the mouth visually, but it should not close the opening or sit across the wearer's lips.

Attach the Detachable Crochet Beard Without Buttons

No buttons are hiding inside this brim. The removable attachment is made entirely from yarn: one narrow crocheted tab at each upper beard corner and one discreet loop inside each side of the hat brim.

Beard Attachment Tabs, make 2:

With the 5.0 mm hook, hold the cheek with Row 1 at the top. Join white yarn in the outermost Row 1 stitch at the upper outside corner.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the joined stitch and the next 2 Row 1 stitches toward the mouth opening. Turn. (3 sts)

Rows 2–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (3 sts)

Fasten off and weave the end back through the tab.

Repeat at the upper outside corner of the second cheek.

Each tab should measure approximately 3 to 3 1/2 inches. It needs enough length to pass through the brim loop and make a loose securing knot without dragging the beard upward against the wearer's face.

Inside-Brim Loops, make 2:

Put the hat on or lay it flat with the center front clearly marked. For the calculated adult sample, place the loop centers approximately 4 to 4 1/4 inches to either side of center front along the inside of the white brim.

Join white yarn securely to the inside of the brim at the first marked point. Ch 7. Skip approximately 1 inch of brim and sl st securely into the brim again to form a low loop. Fasten off and weave in both ends.

Repeat on the opposite side, checking that both loops are the same distance from center front.

To attach the beard, pass one narrow beard tab through the corresponding inside-brim loop. Tie the tab around the loop with one loose half-knot. Repeat on the other side.

Don't reef down on those knots. They only have to keep the tabs from slipping back through while the beard is being worn. A loose yarn knot is much easier to undo when Santa decides it's time for the cookie tray.

Before trimming any remaining ends, put the hat and beard together and check three things: the nose is completely clear, the mouth opening sits over the mouth rather than under the chin, and both cheek edges rise toward the temples at the same height.

If the beard sits too low, move each inside-brim loop slightly toward the crown. If it pulls upward against the lower lip, move the loops slightly closer to the lower edge of the brim. Adjust both sides equally.

Finishing the Santa Hat and Beard

Weave every remaining end toward the back of the work, changing direction at least once before trimming. Pay extra attention to the beard tabs and inside-brim loops because those pieces will get more tugging than the decorative curls.

Use your fingers to separate the curl layers. Pull the shortest cheek curls outward slightly, let the middle tiers fall over one another, and arrange the longest curls toward the center bottom.

I wouldn't steam the beard. Heat can flatten the spirals, and some acrylic yarns don't recover once they've been overheated. If it needs shaping, lightly mist the beard with water, arrange it flat and let it dry completely.

The red crown doesn't need stiffening. The long taper and pom-pom are supposed to fall naturally to one side.

Try the entire piece on one last time before calling it finished. Check that the hat brim stays level, the beard isn't pulling the brim downward, the mustache is above the lips and the wearer can speak and breathe normally without moving the beard.

Then take the beard back off. That's part of the point of this design. The hat works on its own, and Santa doesn't have to wear a lap full of cookie crumbs home after baby's first Christmas pictures.

Adjusting the Fit Without Rebuilding the Whole Pattern

If the hat needs a slightly different adult fit, change the hook size before changing stitch counts. Going up or down one hook size is usually the cleaner adjustment because the crown increase sequence stays intact.

If you need a substantially smaller hat rather than this adult Santa version, don't start chopping rounds out of the beard pattern to make everything fit. Use the free crochet Santa hat pattern for the smaller hat construction instead.

If you want the classic adult hat without the beard, the free adult crochet Santa hat pattern keeps that project separate.

For this version, I'd keep the beard where it is: adult-sized, removable and deliberately fuller than a novelty little face covering. That's what makes the finished piece worth making instead of simply tying white yarn under a Santa hat.

Questions About the Crochet Santa Beard

Is the Santa beard permanently attached to the hat?

No. Two narrow crocheted tabs pass through crocheted loops inside the white brim. The tabs can be untied and removed without cutting yarn or removing hardware.

Does this pattern use buttons?

No. The beard attachment is made entirely from yarn.

Can I make the beard with faux fur yarn?

You can experiment with it, but I wouldn't use it for the example shown here. The layered corkscrew curls are a major part of the design, and fuzzy yarn would hide much of that structure.

Can the beard be made shorter?

Yes. Leave off the final bottom curl tier or use shorter chains for Tiers 6, 7 and the bottom tier. Keep the shaped foundation intact so the beard still has enough structure around the mouth and cheeks.

Can I make the beard longer?

Add length to the chains in the last two curl tiers rather than extending the foundation. That keeps the mouth and cheek proportions the same while giving the lower beard more drop.

Is this beard intended for a baby?

No. The hat-and-beard combination on this page is an adult Santa costume piece. Don't attach the beard, tabs or ties to a baby or young child.

Has this pattern been physically tested?

The instructions are based on the locked finished design, calculated gauge, stitch counts and construction measurements. They should be treated as an engineered pattern rather than a physically test-made sample.