Free Hooded Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern - So Sweet

Here are the instructions for the free hooded baby blanket crochet pattern.  The finished blanket makes a soft handmade covering for supervised cuddling and gift giving.

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finished hooded baby blanket crochet pattern with ribbon binding

Before selecting the 3-ply yarn, compare the softness, washability, warmth and fiber choices covered in this guide to the best yarn for crocheting a baby blanket.

See hooded baby blanket crochet pattern books and supplies here.

Materials and Tools

  • 14 ounces of 3-ply baby yarn that produces the stated gauge
  • 4 1/2 yards of 2-inch-wide silk or satin blanket binding
  • 1 yard of 1-inch-wide ribbon
  • 3 yards of 1/4-inch-wide ribbon
  • Size 0 American gauge crochet hook, or the hook size needed to obtain gauge
  • Stitch marker
  • Pins
  • Matching sewing thread for attaching the binding, ribbon casing and narrow ribbons
  • Needle suitable for sewing the ribbon and blanket binding
  • Yarn needle for weaving in yarn ends

Gauge: 3 groups and 3 rows = 1 inch.

Stitch-count check: The foundation chain should produce 114 pattern groups across Row 1. At a gauge of 3 groups per inch, 114 groups equals about 38 inches across.

Free Hooded Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern Details

Finished size: About 38 x 38 inches, measured across the straight blanket edges after binding, with one shaped hood edge.

Skill level: Intermediate. This pattern uses an older group stitch, one-sided shaping, beginning- and end-of-row decreases, sewn blanket binding and a curved ribbon casing.

Counting note: Turning chains are used only to set up the edge and do not count as pattern groups. Count only the completed groups when checking the stated totals.

Foundation chain: Chain 232 stitches.

Blanket Body Pattern Rows

Pattern note: This is an older crochet pattern, so the wording uses “groups” instead of a modern named stitch. Work each group exactly as written and use the stitch-count checks below to keep the blanket repeatable.

Row 1: Y. O. H. (Y. O. H = yarn over hook) insert hook in 4th chain from hook and pull loop through. (Y. O. H. insert hook in same chain as last stitch and pull loop through) twice. Y. O. H. Skip next chain. Insert hook in next chain and pull loop through. Y. O. H. and pull loop through all 9 loops on hook. Chain 1. (This makes one group). *Y. O. H. insert hook in same Chain as last stitch and pull loop through. Repeat from * twice. Y. O. H. Skip the next Chain and insert hook in next chain and pull loop through. Y. O. H. and pull loop through all 9 loops on hook. Chain 1. This completes the 2nd group. Work 112 more groups across row for a total of 114 groups. Chain 2. Turn.

Row 2: Y. O. H. insert hook in 3rd chain from hook and pull loop through. (Y. O. H. insert hook in the same chain as the last insertion and pull loop through) twice. Y. O. H. Skip the next stitch. Insert hook in the next stitch and pull loop through. Y. O. H. and pull loop through all 9 loops on hook. Chain 1. This makes the first group. *Y. O. H. insert hook in the same stitch as the last insertion and pull loop through. Repeat from * twice. Y. O. H. Skip the next stitch. Insert hook in the next stitch and pull loop through. Y. O. H. and pull loop through all 9 loops on hook. Chain 1. This completes the next group. Work this complete group sequence 112 more times for a total of 114 groups. Chain 2. Turn. Repeat Row 2 until the work measures 29 inches from the beginning.

Length check: At a gauge of 3 rows per inch, 29 inches equals about 87 rows before hood shaping begins.

Hood Shaping

Place a stitch marker at the edge where the hood will be shaped. Work every decrease at this same physical edge. Because the blanket is turned after each row, the shaping edge will be at the beginning of some rows and at the end of others. Keep the opposite edge straight.

Begin Shaping Row 1 at the straight edge so the marked shaping edge is reached at the end of the row.

Decrease 1 group at the beginning of a row: At the end of the preceding row, turn without working the usual Chain 2. Slip stitch across the first complete group, ending in the next chain-1 space. Chain 3. Work the first group exactly as directed in Row 2, inserting the hook in the 3rd chain from the hook, then continue across in the established pattern.

Decrease 1 group at the end of a row: Work across until 1 complete group remains unworked at the marked shaping edge. If the following row does not begin with another decrease, Chain 2 and turn. If the following row begins with another decrease, turn without chaining and use the beginning-of-row decrease above.

Decrease 2 groups at the beginning of a row: At the end of the preceding row, turn without working the usual Chain 2. Slip stitch across the first 2 complete groups, ending in the next chain-1 space. Chain 3. Work the first group exactly as directed in Row 2, inserting the hook in the 3rd chain from the hook, then continue across in the established pattern.

Decrease 2 groups at the end of a row: Work across until 2 complete groups remain unworked at the marked shaping edge. If the following row begins with another decrease, turn without chaining.

Shaping Rows 1, 4, 7 and 10: Decrease 1 group at the marked shaping edge. Work the decrease at the end of Shaping Rows 1 and 7. Work the decrease at the beginning of Shaping Rows 4 and 10. Work the unlisted rows without decreasing. After Shaping Row 10, 110 groups remain.

Shaping Rows 12, 14 and 16: Decrease 1 group at the beginning of each listed row. At the end of Shaping Rows 11, 13 and 15, turn without working Chain 2 so the following beginning-edge decrease can be completed. After Shaping Row 16, 107 groups remain.

Shaping Rows 17, 19, 21, 23 and 25: Decrease 1 group at the end of each listed row. Leave the final group unworked and turn without chaining because the following row also begins with a decrease.

Shaping Rows 18, 20, 22, 24 and 26: Decrease 1 group at the beginning of each listed row. After Shaping Row 26, 97 groups remain.

Shaping Row 27: Decrease 2 groups at the end of the row. Leave the final 2 groups unworked and turn without chaining.

Shaping Row 28: Decrease 2 groups at the beginning of the row. After Shaping Row 28, 93 groups remain. Fasten off.

Hood-shaping count: The shaping section decreases 21 groups from one edge: 4 groups, then 3 groups, then 10 groups, followed by 2 groups on each of the final 2 rows. The count changes from 114 groups to 93 groups.

Measurement checkpoint before finishing: The blanket body should measure about 29 inches before shaping. At 3 rows per inch, the 28 shaping rows add about 9 1/3 inches. The unshaped edge should remain straight and measure approximately 38 to 38 1/2 inches before binding.

Do not begin the ribbon finishing unless: Row 1 contains 114 groups, the body measures about 29 inches before shaping, every decrease was worked at the same marked edge, the opposite edge remains straight, and 93 groups remain after Shaping Row 28.

Finishing the Free Hooded Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern

Final crochet check before finishing: Confirm that 93 groups remain after Shaping Row 28, the unshaped edge remains straight, the body measures about 29 inches before shaping, and the complete unshaped side measures approximately 38 to 38 1/2 inches. Correct any stitch-count error before adding the binding or ribbon casing.

Weave in every yarn end securely on the wrong side before applying the blanket binding.

Block the crochet according to the yarn manufacturer's care instructions. Do not place an iron directly against the crochet. Use wet blocking or carefully applied indirect steam only when the yarn label permits it.

Cut the 3 yards of 1/4-inch-wide ribbon into two equal 54-inch pieces.

Bind the Blanket and Shape the Outer Hood Edge

Apply the 2-inch-wide blanket binding around the complete outer edge of the blanket. When applying the binding along the shaped hood edge, leave the double feather stitching open at the two points where the shaped edge meets the straight blanket edges.

Thread one 54-inch piece of narrow ribbon through the blanket binding along the complete shaped hood edge. Leave equal ribbon ends extending at the two open ends of the binding.

Lay the blanket flat with the wrong side facing up and the shaped edge at the top. Pull the two ribbon ends evenly until the shaped edge cups into a shallow, open hood corner. Distribute the gathers evenly. The lower hood opening must remain broad and open rather than forming a fitted or closed ring. Do not place the hood on a baby to determine the amount of gathering. Slight cupping within the hood area is intended, but the main blanket body beyond the hood must remain smooth and flat.

Turn each narrow ribbon end under and tack it permanently to the wrong side of the binding with several closely spaced stitches. Trim or enclose any excess ribbon so that no loose ribbon tails remain. Complete the double feather stitching at both ends of the binding.

Make the Inner Hood Casing

Hold the blanket diagonally with the shaped hood edge at the top and the wrong side facing up. Measure 9 1/2 inches straight down from the highest point at the center of the shaped edge and mark that point with a pin.

Pin the 1-inch-wide ribbon in a smooth curve from one end of the shaped hood edge to the other, passing through the center pin mark. Position the ribbon so that 1/2 inch extends beyond each point where the shaped hood edge joins a straight blanket edge. Trim any additional excess. Turn each short end under by 1/2 inch. Keep the ribbon flat and untwisted.

Baste the wider ribbon in place. Confirm that the blanket body remains flat and that the ribbon forms a smooth internal hood curve. Sew both long edges of the wider ribbon to the wrong side of the blanket to form a casing. Leave a 1-inch opening at the center pin mark. Leave the two folded short ends temporarily unstitched so the narrow ribbon can be inserted.

Thread the second 54-inch piece of narrow ribbon completely through the casing. Center the ribbon so equal lengths extend through both sides of the casing. Tack each outer end of the narrow ribbon permanently through the folded end of the casing and the blanket at the corresponding outer endpoint. Sew both folded short ends of the wider ribbon closed with small, closely spaced stitches so that no raw ribbon edge or open casing end remains.

At the 1-inch center opening, pull the middle of the narrow ribbon outward evenly until the inner casing cups into a shallow, open hood without gathering or shortening the main blanket body. Do not tighten the casing into a fitted opening around a baby's head or neck.

While holding the adjusted ribbon securely, cut the center ribbon loop at its midpoint. Trim each resulting ribbon end so that approximately 1 1/2 inches extends beyond the center opening. Turn each raw end under by 1/2 inch and stitch the remaining folded section flat and permanently to the wrong side of the casing with several closely spaced stitches. Close the 1-inch casing opening by hand. No loose tail, functional drawstring or free ribbon loop should remain.

Baby safety check: Confirm that every ribbon end and both folded center ribbon ends are permanently stitched and cannot be pulled free. Before each use, inspect the satin binding, ribbon casing, embroidery and every tack stitch. Stop using the blanket if any binding, ribbon, thread or stitching becomes loose, torn or frayed. Never tie or tighten the hood around a baby's head, face or neck. Keep the baby's face and neck completely uncovered. Use the blanket only while an adult is actively supervising, and remove it if the baby falls asleep. Do not place this loose blanket, its hood or its ribbons in a crib, bassinet, play yard, stroller or car seat with a sleeping baby.

Crochet Abbreviations

  • s.c. = single crochet
  • d.c. = double crochet
  • h.d.c. = half double crochet
  • Tr. = treble crochet
  • d. tr. = double treble crochet
  • L. tr. = long treble crochet
  • H. tr. = half treble crochet
  • ss = slip stitch
  • Y.O.H. = yarn over hook

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