Free Crochet Peppermint Candy Granny Square Pattern with Holly and Berries

By Jan Bay

This free crochet peppermint candy granny square pattern features a red-and-cream candy swirl with three green holly leaves and three little red berries in the center. The candy is surrounded by a simple ivory crochet border that turns the circle into a square. Make one for a Christmas pillow, or combine several with other holiday granny squares for a festive blanket.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Free Crochet Peppermint Candy Granny Square Pattern: Supplies and Size

The peppermint is the part I want you to concentrate on first. Once those red and cream ribbons are turning in the right direction, the square border is fairly straightforward. The little holly decoration goes on last, so you won't have leaves and berries getting in your way while you're crocheting.

We're going to work the peppermint as one flat circle, using two colors of yarn. The color changes move a little farther around the circle with every round. That's what gives the candy its swirl instead of making it look like an ordinary striped pinwheel.

Then we'll add the ivory border, crochet three small holly leaves, and finish with three red berries.

Pattern at a Glance

• Skill level: Intermediate
• Finished size: Gauge-dependent; measure the completed square after blocking. The finished square size has not been physically verified.
• Peppermint diameter: Approximately 5 3/4 to 6 1/2 inches before the square border
• Main stitches: Single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and treble crochet
• Colors: Ivory, cranberry red and olive green
• Construction: One colorwork candy circle, four ivory border rounds after the stabilizing round, three holly leaves and three berries
• Terminology: US crochet terms

The measurements are calculated targets. The pattern hasn't been physically test-crocheted yet, so check the finished circle before you begin the border.

Supplies

• Medium-weight #4 cotton or cotton-blend yarn in ivory
• Medium-weight #4 yarn in cranberry red
• Small amount of medium-weight #4 olive-green yarn
• 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook for the square
• 3.5 mm hook for the holly leaves and berries, if needed
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Locking stitch markers
• Two small yarn balls or bobbins for managing the peppermint colors
• Optional small amount of fiberfill for the raised decorative berries
• Blocking mat and rustproof pins

For one square, I'd set aside about 100 to 125 yards of ivory, 50 to 75 yards of cranberry and 10 to 15 yards of olive green. Those are planning allowances rather than measured yarn amounts.

I'd choose a smooth yarn instead of a fuzzy one. The candy needs clearly defined color changes, and the green holly leaves should have little points you can actually see.

You don't need special peppermint-striped yarn, decorative beads, plastic berries or a separate joining tool for this square. Three ordinary yarn colors, the listed hooks and a yarn needle are enough. I'd spend the effort on keeping the red-and-cream colorwork even instead of adding more decorations.

Gauge and Finished Measurements

Target gauge: approximately 16 hdc stitches and 10 hdc rows = 4 inches with the 4 mm hook.

Make a small half-double-crochet gauge swatch before starting if you want the square to match others in a Christmas blanket. Check your single crochet gauge too, since the two finishing rounds use single crochet stitches. The stitches should be firm enough to hold their shape without becoming stiff.

If you're making a matching set, I'd crochet one complete square first. Measure the peppermint after Round 8, check that it still lies flat after Round 9, and measure the finished square after blocking. Those three checks will tell you much more than a hook-size recommendation alone.

At the suggested half-double-crochet gauge, the eight-round peppermint center is expected to measure approximately 6 to 6 1/2 inches across. The finished square will be larger, but its exact size can't be calculated from the half-double-crochet gauge alone.

The final border has 35 single crochet stitches between each pair of corner spaces. You can use your single crochet gauge to estimate the width, allowing a little extra for the corner chains. Measure the completed square after blocking before making more to match a blanket.

If you need an eight-inch square to match other Christmas granny squares, make a gauge sample before committing to the project. A finer yarn and smaller hook may be needed, and the circle must still lie flat at the new gauge. Don't rely on blocking to shrink a substantially oversized square.

You'll get a more reliable finished measurement after you block your first completed square. If you're making a blanket, use that first square as your size reference.

Crochet Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• sp = space
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase, meaning two stitches worked into one stitch

If you need to check a stitch abbreviation, the Craft Yarn Council crochet abbreviation guide has the standard US terms.

Read These Notes Before Starting

Work from the right side: The peppermint is crocheted in joined rounds. Do not turn the work between rounds.

Beginning chains and joins: Ch 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch. The joining slip stitch does not count either. Unless a round tells you to move into a corner space, work the first stitch into the same stitch that received the previous round's joining slip stitch. Do not skip that stitch or crochet into the joining slip stitch itself.

Color changes: Each red or ivory section is made with ordinary hdc stitches. Change colors on the final yarn-over of the stitch immediately before the new color begins.

Increasing: The candy grows by exactly ten hdc stitches per round. Each repeat has one increase. These increases are worked separately from the color-change schedule, so occasionally two stitches made in the same base stitch will be different colors. That's intentional.

Keeping the colors neat: Carry the unused yarn loosely along the wrong side. Don't pull it tight between color changes. Catch longer floats into an occasional stitch or tack them down neatly on the wrong side afterward so they won't snag. Dark red yarn may show through ivory stitches if you carry it directly inside every stitch, so I'd keep most of those floats behind the work instead.

Color names: Cranberry means red. Ivory means cream. The instructions use these names consistently so you can follow the color sequence without guessing.

The direction of the swirl: Keep the right side facing you for every candy round and don't turn the work. Follow the color sequence exactly as written. Each round moves the beginning of its red sections farther along the stitch sequence, giving the peppermint ribbons their gently curved appearance.

The holly: Make it separately and sew it onto the completed square. It covers the small starting ring and keeps the candy's center tidy.

Place a locking stitch marker in the first hdc of Round 1. At the beginning of each new candy round, move the marker into the first hdc you make. Remove the marker temporarily when needed to complete the joining slip stitch, then place it in the first stitch of the new round. There are quite a few color changes, and I wouldn't rely on memory for the counts.

Crochet the Peppermint Candy Wedges

There are ten color wedges in this design: five cranberry and five ivory. They aren't separate pieces. All ten are built into the same circle, which gives us a flatter candy and avoids ten sewn seams.

Start with ivory yarn and your 4 mm hook.

How to Follow the Color Instructions

Each round has two instructions. The first tells you where to make the hdc increases. The second tells you which color to use for the stitches you're making.

Follow both instructions at the same time.

For example, if the color instructions say "3 cranberry," make the next three completed hdc stitches in cranberry, wherever they fall in the increase sequence.

If a color change falls between the two hdc stitches of an increase, begin the first hdc with the old color. On its final yarn-over, pick up the new color and pull it through all three loops on the hook. The body of that first stitch remains the old color. Work the second hdc in the new color, inserting your hook into the same base stitch. You should still have exactly two hdc stitches in that base stitch, one of each color.

In the color sequences, a repeat means you work the complete cranberry-and-ivory pair the number of times stated. The starting and ending ivory stitches are part of the same color section across the round join.

Round 1: Make the Center Ring

With ivory yarn, make a magic ring.

Ch 1. Work 10 hdc into the ring.

Pull the starting tail until the center opening is closed.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (10 hdc)

Do not turn.

The little ivory center won't be very noticeable after the holly leaves and berries are attached.

Round 2: Begin the Alternating Peppermint Stripes

After joining Round 1, leave the ivory yarn attached and bring it to the wrong side. With the ivory working loop still on your hook, yarn over with cranberry and draw the cranberry yarn through the ivory loop. This forms the uncounted beginning chain for Round 2. Do not make another ch 1.

Keep the ivory yarn attached and available behind the work for the next color change. Follow the stitch instructions and color sequence below together. Do not work any additional stitches before beginning the stated 20-stitch round.

Stitches: Work 2 hdc in each of the 10 stitches from Round 1, beginning in the same stitch that received the joining slip stitch. Do not work into the joining slip stitch itself. (20 hdc)

Follow the cranberry-and-ivory color sequence below as you work these 20 stitches. Change colors on the final yarn-over of the stitch immediately before each new color section.

Color sequence: Work 2 cranberry hdc, then 2 ivory hdc. Repeat that four more times, making five complete cranberry-and-ivory pairs.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 2 checkpoint: 20 hdc, including 10 cranberry and 10 ivory stitches.

You should have five small red sections separated by five cream sections.

Round 3: Begin Turning the Swirl

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in the next st, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (30 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 1 ivory hdc. Then work (3 cranberry hdc, 3 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 3 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 3 checkpoint: 30 hdc, including 15 cranberry and 15 ivory stitches.

The first cranberry section now begins one stitch farther around the circle than it did in Round 2.

Round 4: Widen the Peppermint Ribbons

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in each of the next 2 sts, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (40 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 2 ivory hdc. Then work (4 cranberry hdc, 4 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 4 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 4 checkpoint: 40 hdc, including 20 cranberry and 20 ivory stitches.

Each complete colored ribbon is now four stitches wide at this round.

Round 5: Continue the Curved Stripes

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in each of the next 3 sts, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (50 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 3 ivory hdc. Then work (5 cranberry hdc, 5 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 5 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 5 checkpoint: 50 hdc, including 25 cranberry and 25 ivory stitches.

Lay the candy flat for a moment. You should begin to see the red stripes turning gently instead of running straight out from the middle.

Don't stretch the circle to make the stripes curve more. The color placement is already doing that work.

Round 6: Build the Main Candy Shape

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in each of the next 4 sts, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (60 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 4 ivory hdc. Then work (6 cranberry hdc, 6 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 6 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 6 checkpoint: 60 hdc, including 30 cranberry and 30 ivory stitches.

The round should still lie flat. If the outside is starting to ripple, check your increase count before moving on.

Round 7: Continue the Peppermint Swirl

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in each of the next 5 sts, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (70 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 5 ivory hdc. Then work (7 cranberry hdc, 7 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 7 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn.

Round 7 checkpoint: 70 hdc, including 35 cranberry and 35 ivory stitches.

Each red section should now have a clear curve between the smaller inner rounds and the outer edge.

Round 8: Finish the Peppermint Candy

Ch 1.

Stitches: *Hdc in each of the next 6 sts, work 2 hdc in the following st.* Repeat from * to * ten times around. (80 hdc)

Color sequence: Begin with 6 ivory hdc. Then work (8 cranberry hdc, 8 ivory hdc) four times. Finish with 8 cranberry hdc and 2 ivory hdc.

Join with a sl st to the first hdc.

Round 8 checkpoint: 80 hdc, including 40 cranberry and 40 ivory stitches.

You should have five broad red ribbons separated by five cream ribbons. Every red section ends with eight stitches around the outside, and the color boundaries should lean in the same direction.

Fasten off the cranberry yarn securely on the wrong side. Keep the ivory yarn available for the next round.

Peppermint Stitch Count Check

Round	Total hdc	Cranberry	Ivory
1	10	0	10
2	20	10	10
3	30	15	15
4	40	20	20
5	50	25	25
6	60	30	30
7	70	35	35
8	80	40	40

Before adding the ivory border, count all 80 stitches around the finished candy. Correct any missing or extra stitches now. The four square corners depend on that count.

Tip for keeping the peppermint round: Because the increases follow the same pattern in each round, you may notice slight angles along the outside edge instead of a perfectly smooth circle. Don't pull on individual stitches to straighten them. Lay the candy flat, check that all 80 stitches are present, and gently smooth the fabric with your hands. A little unevenness may improve with blocking, but noticeable corners or folds mean the shaping needs another look before you add the square border.

Join and Finish the Peppermint Candy Center

Because we worked the red and cream ribbons into one circle, there aren't any separate wedges to sew together. That's a nice advantage of this construction. You won't have ten seams meeting underneath the holly leaves.

Before adding the border, take a look at the peppermint from the front. The red sections should all curve in the same direction, and the cream sections should remain clearly visible between them.

Check the Candy Shape

Lay the circle on a flat surface without stretching it.

• Count five cranberry sections and five ivory sections.
• Check that the completed candy has exactly 80 outer stitches.
• Make sure the color changes move in the same direction around the circle.
• Look for places where carried yarn might be pulling the fabric together.
• Check that the starting center opening is closed.

The candy doesn't have to look perfectly round before blocking, but it shouldn't have deep folds or large waves around the edge.

Secure the Yarn on the Wrong Side

Turn the candy over and check the carried yarn.

Any loose strand crossing the back of a cream section should be secured without pulling the fabric tight. Use a yarn needle to catch it beneath nearby stitch backs at short intervals. Keep the securing stitches on the wrong side so the red yarn doesn't show through the cream on the front.

Weave the cranberry finishing tail through several nearby cranberry stitch backs, changing direction once before trimming.

Do the same with any starting tails you no longer need.

Don't trim a loose float and leave its ends unsecured. It needs to stay attached and neatly anchored.

Round 9: Ivory Stabilizing Round

Keep the right side facing you. Continue with ivory yarn and the 4 mm hook.

Ch 1.

Work 1 sc in each of the 80 hdc stitches around.

Join with a sl st to the first sc. (80 sc)

Do not turn.

This plain ivory round separates the candy stripes from the openwork border. It also gives us an even set of stitches for placing the four corners.

Tip before making the square corners: Round 9 uses one single crochet in each stitch without adding any increases. Because single crochet stitches are shorter than half double crochet stitches, this round may pull the outer edge inward slightly. Keep your tension relaxed and even, then lay the candy flat before continuing. If the edge pulls inward noticeably, check the 80-stitch count and your tension. You can redo the round with more relaxed tension if it was worked tightly. If it still pulls inward at the correct count, don't try to force it flat with blocking or add extra stitches without adjusting the following border rounds.

Mark the Corner Positions

Count the 80 single crochet stitches in Round 9, starting with the first sc after the joining seam.

Place a locking stitch marker in stitches 1, 21, 41 and 61.

You should have 19 unmarked stitches between every pair of marked corner stitches.

Count each section twice before continuing.

Checkpoint: Four marked corner stitches plus four groups of 19 unmarked stitches = 80 stitches.

The square border will begin in the first marked stitch.

Turn the Peppermint Candy into a Granny Square

Now we'll give the peppermint its square shape. The center stays round, but the stitches get taller near the four corners. After that, a round of open granny clusters makes the ivory background you see in the finished design.

Keep using ivory yarn and the 4 mm hook. Work with the right side facing you, and do not turn between rounds.

Round 10: Form the Four Square Corners

Begin in the first marked corner stitch from Round 9.

Ch 4. This counts as the first tr.

Work 1 more tr, ch 2, and 2 tr in that same marked stitch.

You have made the first corner: (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr).

First side: Work 1 tr in each of the next 3 stitches.

Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches.

Work 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches.

Work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches.

Work 1 tr in each of the next 3 stitches.

That uses all 19 unmarked stitches along the first side.

Second corner: Work (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the next marked stitch.

Repeat the same 19-stitch side sequence, followed by the corner group, for the third and fourth corners.

After the fourth corner, work the final 19-stitch side sequence. Do not work another corner group into the starting corner.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 4.

Round 10 checkpoint: 92 stitches and four ch-2 corner spaces.

There should be 23 stitches between every pair of corner spaces. That includes the two treble stitches leaving one corner, the 19 side stitches, and the two treble stitches entering the next corner.

Remove the four stitch markers once you've checked the corners.

Look at your work before starting the next round. You should see four definite corners, with the shorter stitches sitting in the middle of each side.

Round 11: Make the Openwork Granny Border

Slip stitch into the next tr, then slip stitch into the following corner ch-2 space.

Ch 3. This counts as the first dc.

Work 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc into that same corner space.

You have completed the first corner group: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

First side: Ch 1 and skip the next stitch.

Work 3 dc in the following stitch.

*Ch 2, skip the next 3 stitches, then work 3 dc in the following stitch.*

Repeat from * to * five times total.

Ch 1 and skip the final stitch before the next corner space.

You should now have six groups of 3 dc along the side.

Next corner: Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner ch-2 space.

Repeat the first-side instructions and next-corner treatment for the second and third sides.

After the fourth corner group, work the same side instructions once more across the fourth side.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Round 11 checkpoint:

• Four ch-2 corner spaces
• Six 3-dc granny groups between each pair of corner groups
• Seven side chain spaces between each pair of corners
• 96 dc stitches in total

This round makes the open ivory border around the peppermint. You should see small spaces between the granny clusters, with larger openings near the corners.

If one side looks crowded while another looks stretched, count the groups before continuing. Every side needs exactly six groups between its corners.

Round 12: Give the Border a Neat Edge

Slip stitch into each of the next 2 dc, then into the following corner ch-2 space.

Ch 1. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in that corner space.

Along the next side, work 1 sc into the top of every dc stitch.

Whenever you reach a ch-1 or ch-2 space between the granny groups, work 1 sc into that space. Work just one sc into each space, not one for every chain.

At the next corner ch-2 space, work (sc, ch 2, sc).

Continue around all four sides in the same way, working 1 sc into each dc, 1 sc into each side chain space, and (sc, ch 2, sc) into each corner.

Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 12 checkpoint: 132 sc and four ch-2 corner spaces.

There should be 33 sc between each pair of corner spaces.

Count one side before starting the next round. If it has 33 sc between the corners, the other sides should match.

Round 13: Finish the Plain Ivory Border

Slip stitch into the first corner ch-2 space.

Ch 1. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in that corner space.

Work 1 sc in every stitch along the next side until you reach the next corner space.

Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner space.

Repeat around the remaining sides, working into every stitch and making the same corner group in each corner space.

Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Final border count: 140 sc and four ch-2 corner spaces.

You should have 35 sc between every pair of corner spaces.

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave in securely.

If you're planning a blanket, I'd stop and measure the square at this point. The finished border should be even, with four clear corners and no red decorations competing with the peppermint.

Before Adding the Holly

Lay the square flat with the front facing up.

Check that the peppermint still looks centered inside its ivory border. The circle should touch the surrounding border evenly rather than leaning toward one corner.

Gently shape the corners with your fingers. Don't pull hard on the outer stitches to force the square into shape.

If the border has a small amount of unevenness, light blocking may help. If it has large waves or tight, pulling corners, recheck your stitch counts and gauge before relying on blocking.

There's no need for another decorative border round. The peppermint and holly already give the square plenty of detail.

Crochet the Holly Leaves and Berries

Now for the little holly decoration. We'll make three pointed leaves and three red berries, then arrange them over the peppermint's center.

I prefer keeping the holly fairly small on this square. The green gives the candy a pretty Christmas touch, but I still want those red and cream ribbons to be easy to see.

The leaves are worked around both sides of a short foundation chain. That gives them a proper holly shape without having to sew several little pieces together.

Small Crochet Holly Leaf Pattern

Make 3 with olive-green yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Each leaf has two pointed lobes along each side and one longer point at the tip.

Foundation: Ch 7.

Round 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each of the next 4 ch. You should have 5 sc along the first side.

Work 3 sc in the final chain.

Rotate the work so you can crochet along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain.

Work 1 sc in each of the 5 remaining unused chain loops.

Do not join. (13 sc)

You should have 5 sc along the first side, 3 sc around the tip, and 5 sc along the opposite side.

Round 2: Shape the Holly Points

Keep the right side facing you.

First side: Sl st in the next stitch.

In the following stitch, work (sc, hdc, ch 2, sl st in the second ch from the hook, hdc, sc). This makes the first small holly point.

Sc in the next stitch.

In the following stitch, work (sc, hdc, ch 2, sl st in the second ch from the hook, hdc, sc). This makes the second side point.

Sl st in the next stitch.

You have now used all five stitches along the first side.

Leaf tip: Sc in the next stitch.

In the following stitch, work (hdc, dc, ch 3, sl st in the second ch from the hook and in the next ch, dc, hdc).

Sc in the next stitch.

You have now worked across all three stitches at the leaf tip.

Opposite side: Sl st in the next stitch.

In the following stitch, work (sc, hdc, ch 2, sl st in the second ch from the hook, hdc, sc).

Sc in the next stitch.

In the following stitch, work (sc, hdc, ch 2, sl st in the second ch from the hook, hdc, sc).

Sl st in the final stitch.

Join with a sl st to the first slip stitch at the base of the leaf.

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.

Leaf checkpoint: Each leaf should have four small side points and one longer tip point. The finished leaf is expected to measure approximately 1 1/2 to 2 inches long, depending on yarn and tension.

Make two more identical leaves.

Add the Raised Center Veins

Use olive-green yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Lay one leaf with its chosen right side facing up.

Join green yarn at the base, directly over the original foundation chain.

Work loose surface slip stitches along the center foundation chain toward the pointed tip.

To make a surface slip stitch, insert your hook from front to back through the crochet fabric, catch the working yarn behind the leaf, and pull a loop through to the front. Insert the hook through the next foundation-chain position, draw up another loop and pull it through the loop already on the hook.

Continue along the center until you're just below the tip point.

Fasten off. Pull the yarn end to the wrong side and weave it in securely.

Repeat on the other two leaves.

The center vein should sit slightly above the leaf without pulling it into a tight fold. If it puckers, loosen the surface slip stitches.

Raised Red Holly Berries

Make 3 with cranberry yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

These are the little rounded berries shown in the approved decorative design. Work in continuous rounds instead of joining each round.

Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 3: Work 1 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 4: Sc2tog six times around. (6 sc)

Remove the stitch marker.

Pull the beginning tail firmly to close the magic ring, then secure that tail inside the berry.

Add a very small amount of fiberfill. You want a rounded berry, not a tightly packed ball.

Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail.

Thread the tail through the front loops of the six remaining stitches. Pull gently until the opening closes.

Secure the yarn, but keep the long tail for sewing the berry to the holly.

Roll the berry lightly between your fingers to round it.

Make two more berries the same way.

Berry checkpoint: Each berry should be approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch across. All three should be close to the same size.

These raised berries are intended for decorative projects, such as a Christmas pillow or wall hanging. Do not use the raised, stuffed berry version on a baby blanket, bib, lovey or other infant item.

Flat Holly Berries for Baby-Oriented Projects

If you're using this granny square in a baby-oriented project, make three flat red berries instead. They'll give you the same little triangle of red in the center without the stuffed pieces.

Make 3 with cranberry yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 5 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first sc. (5 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (10 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.

Keep the berry flat. Do not add stuffing or pull the outer stitches into a ball.

Secure the starting tail on the wrong side, weaving it through several stitch backs before trimming.

Each flat berry should look like a tiny red crochet circle with a visible center.

Make all three berries the same size. When attaching them, sew around the entire outer edge and add one small center anchoring stitch.

The flat version is the one I'd choose for a baby blanket. Even with securely attached decorations, keep blankets and other loose items out of an infant's sleep space.

Assemble and Finish the Peppermint Holly Granny Square

We're almost finished. The peppermint is already part of the square, so all that's left is arranging the holly, sewing everything in place, and tidying up the edges.

Don't rush the placement. Those three little leaves should look balanced over the candy without covering too much of the swirl.

Step 1: Arrange the Three Holly Leaves

Lay the granny square on a flat surface with the right side facing up.

Find the exact center of the peppermint, where the original magic ring was made.

Place the first leaf over the center with its long point facing straight toward the top edge of the square.

Place the second leaf with its point facing down and left.

Place the third leaf with its point facing down and right.

The three narrow leaf bases should overlap in the middle, making a loose three-part fan.

Try to keep the holly cluster centered over the original magic ring. You want it to look like part of the candy design, not an appliqué that slipped off to one side.

Use stitch markers or a few loose basting stitches to hold the leaves in place while you check the arrangement.

Step 2: Sew the Leaves in Place

Thread the long green tail from the first leaf onto a yarn needle.

Begin at the overlapping leaf base and stitch through the leaf and the peppermint fabric beneath it.

Make several small stitches at the base, then work a few anchoring stitches along the center vein.

Keep the outer leaf points free for a slightly raised decorative finish if you're making a pillow or wall hanging.

Secure the yarn on the wrong side, weaving the tail through several stitch backs before trimming.

Repeat for the remaining leaves.

For a baby-oriented project, sew all the way around the outer edge of every leaf instead of leaving the points raised. Add the center anchoring stitches too.

Step 3: Arrange the Three Holly Berries

Place the three berries over the area where the leaf bases overlap.

Put one berry slightly above the center, then position the other two just below it, one to the left and one to the right.

The berries should make a small triangle.

Check the arrangement before sewing. The leaves should still be visible around the berries, and the peppermint ribbons should remain the largest part of the design.

Step 4: Sew the Berries in Place

Thread the long cranberry sewing tail from the first raised berry onto a yarn needle.

Stitch through the closed base of the berry, through the overlapping green leaves, and into the peppermint fabric beneath them.

Make several small anchoring stitches around the berry's base so it stays upright.

Secure the yarn on the wrong side and weave in the tail.

Repeat for the other two raised berries.

If you're using the flat berries, sew completely around each berry's outer edge with small stitches. Then make one anchoring stitch through the center and into the fabric beneath it.

Don't use glue or separate beads for this decoration. Everything in the finished design can be attached with yarn and a needle.

Step 5: Weave In the Remaining Ends

Turn the square over and look for any loose yarn ends.

Thread each end onto your yarn needle and weave it through several nearby stitch backs.

Change direction once before trimming the tail.

Check the colorwork floats again. If a strand looks long enough to catch on something, tack it down on the wrong side without pulling the fabric tight.

The wrong side should be tidy enough that the square can be joined to other granny squares without loose strands getting in the way.

Step 6: Block the Finished Square

Lightly dampen the finished granny square, or follow the blocking directions recommended for your yarn.

Lay it on a blocking mat with the right side facing up.

Pin the four corners first. Measure across the width and height to keep the square balanced.

Gently straighten each side, working from the middle toward the corners.

Don't stretch the center peppermint to make it fit the border. The candy should stay round, and the holly should remain centered.

Shape the holly leaf points with your fingers. If needed, place a pin near each leaf tip while the square dries.

Let the square dry completely, then remove every blocking pin, temporary stitch marker and positioning pin. Check the front and back for any remaining basting threads, loose yarn ends or unsecured colorwork floats before using the finished square.

Final Measurements and Checkpoints

Measure the square after blocking, not while it's still damp and pinned.

Use these checkpoints before making more:

• The peppermint contains five cranberry ribbons and five ivory ribbons.
• The candy center was completed with 80 hdc stitches in Round 8.
• The ivory stabilizing round contains 80 sc.
• The square has four matching corner spaces.
• The openwork border has six granny groups between each pair of corner groups.
• The final border contains 140 sc and four ch-2 corner spaces.
• The three holly leaves form an even arrangement over the candy center.
• The three red berries cover the overlapping leaf bases.
• All yarn ends and colorwork floats are secured.
• The square lies flat without large ripples or tight corners.

If the finished square is a little larger or smaller than expected, that's not necessarily a problem for a pillow or a single Christmas decoration.

For a blanket, though, I would check the size against your other squares before making a whole stack. It's much easier to adjust one square than twenty.

What to Check If the Candy Won't Lie Flat

If the candy ruffles: Count the hdc stitches in each round. Every round adds exactly ten stitches. Too many increases will make the edge wave. If the counts are correct, your stitch-height gauge may be too short for ten increases per round. Make a small test circle with a slightly taller hdc stitch or adjust the hook before making another complete square.

If the candy cups: Check the carried yarn first. Tight floats can pull the circle inward. If the colorwork is loose enough and the counts are correct, the circumference may be too small for your row-height gauge. Try a slightly shorter hdc stitch or a hook adjustment on a new test circle.

If the swirl looks straight: Make sure you're following the separate color sequence for every round. The beginning ivory section grows from one stitch in Round 3 to six stitches in Round 8. If you start every color pair at the same point, the ribbon boundaries won't turn as intended.

If the border pulls inward: Check the four original corner markers. Each quarter of the candy should have exactly 20 stitches, with 19 stitches between marked corner stitches.

If the border ruffles: Check the openwork granny groups and the single crochet finishing counts. Don't add extra stitches at the corners or inside chain spaces.

These are construction checks, not guarantees that every yarn will behave the same way. The first completed square is the best place to confirm your gauge and flatness before making more.

Ways to Use the Finished Square

I like this peppermint design best with a plain ivory border. It lets the candy and holly stand out, especially if you're mixing it with other Christmas granny squares.

You could make four for a Christmas pillow front, repeat them for a table runner, or alternate them with plain cranberry and sage-green squares for a holiday throw.

For more designs to mix with your peppermint, browse my free Christmas granny square patterns.

If you want to make the holly motif on its own, I also have a free crochet holly leaf pattern with berries in two sizes.

And for a smaller peppermint decoration that can be sewn onto another project, see my crochet candy cane and peppermint appliqué pattern.

I'd keep the extras simple when using several of these squares together. Those peppermint swirls already give a Christmas blanket plenty of movement.

Peppermint Holly Granny Square Questions

How do you crochet the curved peppermint stripes?

The candy is worked in joined rounds with five cranberry sections and five ivory sections. Each round has ten evenly spaced increases, while the color changes move a little farther around the circle. That shift gives the stripes their curved appearance.

Follow both the stitch instructions and the color sequence for each round. The increases make the circle larger, and the color placement makes the swirl.

Do I need to crochet ten separate peppermint wedges?

No. All ten colored sections are made together in one circle. You don't need to sew individual candy wedges together. The only separate pieces are the three holly leaves and three berries.

How do I keep the red yarn from showing through the ivory stitches?

Keep the unused red yarn behind the work instead of carrying it directly inside every ivory stitch. Catch or secure the longer floats on the wrong side without pulling them tight. A smooth, closely matched yarn weight also helps the color changes look tidy.

Can I make this granny square without the holly?

Yes. You can leave the three leaves and berries off and make a plain peppermint candy square. The red-and-cream swirl and ivory border are complete without them.

I would keep the holly for this particular design, though. Those little green leaves and red berries are what give our peppermint square its own Christmas look.

Can I make an eight-inch square for a Christmas blanket?

The square can be adapted for an eight-inch blanket block, but the suggested gauge may produce a larger square. Check the size of your first completed piece before making more. An eight-inch version may require finer yarn, a smaller hook, or a separately adjusted border.

If your square is too large, try a finer yarn and smaller hook on a new gauge swatch. If it's too small, a larger hook may help. Check both the stitch and row gauge, then make sure the peppermint circle lies flat before completing the border. Changing gauge affects the finished size and can also change the way the circle behaves.

Can I use this pattern for a Christmas baby blanket?

Choose the flat berry version instead of the raised stuffed berries. Sew each green leaf securely around its outer edge, attach the flat berries completely, and check that all yarn ends and carried strands are secured.

Remember that a decorative baby blanket belongs outside an infant sleep space.

Can I combine the peppermint square with other Christmas granny square patterns?

Yes. The ivory border makes it easy to pair with other holiday designs. I especially like the idea of alternating peppermint squares with plain cranberry and sage-green squares so the candy swirls don't compete with one another.

You can find more designs in my Christmas granny square collection.