Free Felt Reindeer Ornament Pattern with Printable Templates

By Jan Bay

This free felt reindeer ornament pattern includes printable cutting templates and step-by-step instructions for making a cheerful Christmas decoration by hand. The little brown reindeer has embroidered eyes, rosy cheeks, branching antlers decorated with holly, and a red winter scarf. A layered green scalloped saddle blanket with a red panel and cream star gives this ornament its distinctive look. The pattern includes the pieces and finishing details needed to recreate the design shown in the example image.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Materials for the Felt Reindeer Ornament Pattern

This little reindeer is made with ordinary craft felt, embroidery floss, and a small amount of stuffing. You won't need a sewing machine. Most of the work is done with blanket stitch, running stitch, and a few embroidered details.

I'd choose wool-blend felt if you have it. The edges hold their shape nicely, especially around the antlers and scalloped saddle blanket. Regular craft felt is fine too, although you may want a little extra stiffener inside the antlers.

Felt Colors

• Rust brown: Two 9 x 12-inch sheets for the body, head, outer ears, legs, and tail.
• Dark chocolate brown: One sheet for the antlers, hoof caps, and nose.
• Cream or ivory: One sheet for the face, inner ears, chest, belly, tail tip, and saddle star.
• Christmas red: One sheet for the scarf, saddle panel, and small decorative details.
• Forest green: One sheet for the scalloped saddle and holly leaves.
• Dusty pink: Two small circles for the cheeks.

Choose felt approximately 1 to 1.5 mm thick. These are suggested purchasing amounts rather than measured consumption from a completed sample.

Other Supplies

• Embroidery floss in cream or pale gold, dark brown, red, and green
• Fine embroidery or hand-sewing needle
• Small, sharp scissors for cutting felt
• Embroidery scissors for trimming threads and scarf fringe
• Fabric marking pen or tracing paper
• Wonder clips or small pins
• A small amount of polyester stuffing
• Optional lightweight sew-in stiffener for the antlers
• Approximately 7 inches of red cord or embroidery floss for the hanging loop
• Printed cutting templates

Finished Ornament Size

The expected finished size is approximately 6 1/2 to 7 inches wide and 7 to 7 1/2 inches tall, excluding the hanging loop.

Those are estimated dimensions based on the printable templates and planned overlaps, not measurements from a test-sewn ornament. Felt thickness, stuffing, and how you position the head and legs can change the final measurements slightly.

Skill level: Confident beginner. The basic stitches are simple, but the small embroidered details, shaped antlers, and layered assembly take a little patience.

Construction: A lightly stuffed body with two built-in legs, two separately sewn foreground legs, a padded head, doubled antlers, attached ears and tail, and decorative felt appliqués.

Keep the stuffing light. The example ornament has a gently padded appearance, not a thick, rounded body.

Download the Free Felt Reindeer Ornament Pattern

The printable package includes the cutting templates for the complete reindeer, along with the sewing and assembly instructions. Every major piece has a letter that matches the cutting guide below, so you can identify the parts without guessing.

Printing the Templates

Print the four template sheets on US Letter paper using Actual Size or 100%. Don't select Fit to Page or another automatic scaling option.

Each sheet includes a 1-inch test square. Measure it horizontally and vertically with a ruler. Both sides should measure exactly 1 inch before you cut any felt.

The solid outlines are your cutting lines. Dashed markings show placement guides and embroidery details. Don't cut along the dashed lines.

The cutting templates already include the edge needed for blanket stitching, so don't add extra seam allowance.

I'd cut out the paper body, head, and legs first and arrange them together. It's much easier to adjust their placement on paper than after you've sewn and stuffed everything.

Pattern note: The printable pieces and instructions were prepared to match the approved example image. This version has been digitally reviewed, but it has not been physically test-sewn. Check the paper layout and the measurements as you work, especially before making the final attachments.

Felt Reindeer Cutting Guide and Pattern Pieces

There are quite a few little pieces, but you don't have to sew them all separately. Some are simple decorations that get stitched onto larger pieces before assembly.

Use the letters printed on the templates. Cut the front and back pieces as indicated, flipping the paper template whenever a mirrored piece is required.

Brown Felt Pieces

A. Main body: Cut 2 rust-brown pieces, mirrored. Each includes two legs that become the far front and far back legs.

B. Foreground front leg: Cut 2 rust-brown pieces, one front and one mirrored back.

C. Foreground hind leg: Cut 2 rust-brown pieces, one front and one mirrored back.

D. Head: Cut 2 rust-brown pieces for the lightly padded head.

F. Outer ears: Cut 4 rust-brown pieces. You'll use two pieces for each ear.

H. Antlers: Cut 4 dark-brown pieces, two in the printed direction and two flipped. These form one doubled antler on each side.

I. Tail: Cut 2 rust-brown pieces, mirrored.

Q. Hoof caps: Cut 8 dark-brown pieces. Four go on the visible fronts and four finish the backs.

U. Nose: Cut 1 dark-brown oval.

Cream and Pink Felt Pieces

E. Face: Cut 1 cream piece with two rounded upper sections and a small center dip. This creates the cream cheeks and forehead shape.

G. Inner ears: Cut 2 cream pieces, mirroring one.

J. Tail tip: Cut 1 cream piece.

M. Saddle star: Cut 1 cream five-pointed star.

R. Chest: Cut 1 cream patch.

S. Underbelly: Cut 1 cream patch.

V. Cheeks: Cut 2 dusty-pink circles.

Red and Green Felt Pieces

K. Scalloped saddle: Cut 1 forest-green piece.

L. Saddle top: Cut 1 Christmas-red panel.

N. Scarf collar: Cut 1 red neckband.

O. Long scarf end: Cut 1 red strip.

P. Short scarf end: Cut 1 red strip.

T. Holly leaves: Cut 2 green leaves, mirroring one.

Lay Out the Pieces Before Sewing

Place body piece A with its shoulder toward the left and rump toward the right. Arrange the two separate foreground legs B and C over the body. Then position the head so it looks straight toward you while the body points to the right.

The tail curves upward behind the rump. The green saddle covers the upper right side of the body, with the red panel and cream star on top. The scarf hangs down on the viewer-left side beneath the head.

Put the antlers behind the crown, angle the ears outward, and arrange the holly on the viewer-left side between the ear and antler.

Checkpoint: Before cutting your final felt, compare this paper arrangement with the example image. You should see four separate-looking legs, a large forward-facing head, two branching antlers, and enough room for the layered saddle without covering the tail.

Hand Stitches and Embroidery Guide

You only need a handful of stitches to make the ornament. Most of the sewing is around the outside edges, while the embroidery adds the little expressions and Christmas details.

Use two strands of embroidery floss for most decorative stitching. You can use two or three strands for the outer blanket stitching, depending on how visible you want the stitches to be.

Blanket Stitch

Blanket stitch joins the front and back felt pieces while leaving a neat decorative edge.

Place the two pieces together with their edges aligned. Bring the needle through the felt approximately 1/8 inch from the edge. Pass the needle through the loop of thread before tightening to form the stitch along the cut edge.

Continue with stitches approximately 1/8 inch apart. Keep them evenly spaced without pulling the felt tight enough to wrinkle it.

Use blanket stitch around the head, body, antlers, ears, legs, and tail.

Running Stitch

Bring the needle up and down through the felt in a line of small, even stitches.

Use running stitch to attach the cream face, cheeks, chest, saddle layers, and other decorative pieces. The cream stitches around the reindeer's face and saddle are meant to show, so don't worry about hiding every stitch.

Backstitch

Backstitch makes the solid curved lines for the closed eyes, eyebrows, smile, and embroidered branches.

Bring the needle up one stitch length ahead of the previous stitch, then take it back down at the end of that stitch. Continue along your marked line.

Use short stitches around curves to keep the shape smooth.

French Knots and Straight Stitches

French knots make the little red holly berries and some of the decorative dots. Bring the needle up, wrap the floss around it once or twice, and take the needle back down close to the starting point while holding the wraps in place.

Short straight stitches make the little leaves along the embroidered branches. Work them in pairs, angling each leaf away from the main stem.

Ladder Stitch

Use ladder stitch when attaching the finished head to the body. Take alternating small stitches through the felt on each side of the join, then gently draw the thread together.

The stitches should pull the two pieces together without showing much thread on the front.

If you'd like a visual reminder of any of these stitches, DMC's illustrated embroidery stitch guide includes instructions for blanket stitch, backstitch, running stitch, French knots, and ladder stitch.

Before starting: Embroider the flat pieces first. The face, antlers, scarf, and saddle are easier to decorate before they're attached to the stuffed body.

How to Sew the Felt Reindeer Ornament

Start with the head and work your way down. We'll make the face, ears, and antlers first, then sew the body, legs, tail, and decorative saddle. The scarf goes on after the head is attached so it can cover the join.

Step 1. Make the Reindeer's Face

1. Place one rust-brown head piece D on your work surface. This will be the front of the head.

2. Center the cream face piece E on the brown head, with its bottom edge approximately 1/8 inch above the lower edge of D.

The cream face has two rounded upper sections with a little dip between them. Leave that center dip visible so the brown forehead shows through.

3. Pin or clip the cream face in place. Sew around its outer edge using small cream running stitches. Follow the curved upper edges carefully.

4. Transfer the eye and nose placement markings from the printable template. If you're using a removable fabric marker, test it on a scrap of felt first.

5. Using dark-brown embroidery floss, backstitch two upward-curving closed eyes. Keep them symmetrical, with the outside ends slightly lower than the centers.

6. Add three short eyelashes at the outer corner of each eye. Angle them outward rather than straight up.

7. Embroider the two small curved eyebrows above the eyes using dark-brown floss.

8. Place the two dusty-pink cheek circles V below and slightly outside the eyes. Sew each circle down with tiny pink or cream stitches.

9. Center the dark-brown oval nose U between the cheeks, a little above the middle of the lower face. Sew it in place, then add a few brown stitches across it for texture.

10. Backstitch a short vertical line descending from the bottom of the nose. Add a shallow, upward-curving smile beneath it, extending gently to either side.

Checkpoint: The face should have two closed smiling eyes, three eyelashes at each outer corner, two small eyebrows, matching pink cheeks, and a centered brown nose with a little smile. The embroidered features should fit comfortably inside the cream face without touching its stitched edge.

Step 2. Make Both Ears

1. Take two rust-brown outer ear pieces F and one cream inner ear G.

2. Place G on one brown ear piece, centering it so a brown border remains visible around the rounded outer edges. Sew the cream piece down with small running stitches.

3. Place the second brown F piece behind the decorated front. Match the edges and blanket-stitch around the ear, leaving its narrow base open.

4. Pinch the base slightly to give the ear a gentle fold. Secure the fold with two or three small stitches.

5. Repeat for the second ear, reversing the direction so the two ears point outward on opposite sides of the head.

Don't stuff the ears. The double felt layers will give them enough body without making them bulky.

Step 3. Make the Branching Antlers

The antlers are one of the details that make this reindeer recognizable, so take your time cutting around the little branches.

1. Cut the four dark-brown antler pieces H as directed on the template: two in the printed direction and two flipped.

2. Choose one front-facing piece for each antler. Lay them beside the head to confirm that the branches point outward in opposite directions.

3. Using cream embroidery floss, stitch delicate branching sprigs along the front antler surfaces. Work a short central stem, then add little diagonal leaves.

4. Add two or three small red French knots near the upper branches of each antler to resemble tiny berries.

5. Pair each decorated antler with its matching undecorated back piece.

6. If your felt bends too easily, place a matching piece of lightweight sew-in stiffener between the layers. Trim it approximately 1/8 inch smaller than the antler outline so it won't show at the edges.

7. Blanket-stitch the layers together, following every branch. Keep your stitches small around the narrow turns.

8. Leave the lower antler tabs intact. These tabs will be secured inside the head when it's assembled.

Don't put stuffing inside the antlers. They need to stay fairly flat to keep the branching shapes neat.

Step 4. Add the Holly Decoration

The example ornament has a small holly cluster on the viewer-left side of the head, tucked between the ear and antler.

1. Cut the two green holly leaves T, mirroring one.

2. Embroider a short dark-green center vein and a few smaller angled veins on each leaf.

3. Arrange the leaves so they overlap slightly, with their pointed ends spreading outward.

4. Secure them to the upper-left area of the head front, near the ear and antler placement. Keep the stitching near their bases so the outer leaf edges can remain slightly raised.

5. Embroider three compact red French knots together at the center of the leaves. If you want the fuller berry cluster shown in the example image, add two smaller knots beside them.

Keep the berries embroidered rather than attaching loose beads.

Step 5. Assemble and Lightly Stuff the Head

1. Lay the decorated head front on your work surface, right side up.

2. Position the completed ears behind its upper-left and upper-right edges. Angle the pointed tips outward, keeping the cream ear centers facing forward.

3. Position the antlers behind the crown, one on each side. The branching tops should rise above the ears.

4. Tack the ear bases and antler tabs to the back of the head front with several secure stitches.

5. Fold approximately 7 inches of red hanging cord in half. Place the two loose ends at the top center of the head, between the antlers, with at least 3/8 inch of each end tucked inside.

6. Secure the cord ends with several backstitches through the felt. Give the loop a gentle pull to check the attachment.

7. Place the second brown head piece D behind the decorated front. Align the edges without moving the ears, antlers, or hanging loop.

8. Blanket-stitch around the head, catching the inserted tabs securely as you pass them.

9. Leave an opening approximately 3/4 inch wide along the lower head edge.

10. Add a thin, even layer of polyester stuffing. Use small amounts, spreading the filling toward the outer curves without stretching the face.

11. Close the opening with matching blanket stitches and fasten off securely.

Checkpoint: The head should look rounded but still fairly flat. The cream face should remain smooth, the ears should point outward, and the two antlers should stand upright with the red hanging loop between them.

Step 6. Prepare the Main Body

Now we'll make the body that carries the two far legs. The other two legs will be attached separately so all four show clearly.

1. Lay one rust-brown body piece A right side up, with its shoulder toward the left and rump toward the right.

2. Position cream chest patch R on the left front shoulder area, beginning just below the neckline.

3. Sew the chest patch down with small cream running stitches. Its lower end should follow the direction of the front leg rather than sitting straight across the body.

4. Position the narrow cream underbelly piece S along the lower body, between the two built-in legs.

5. Sew the underbelly patch in place with cream thread.

6. Take two dark-brown hoof caps Q. Position one over the bottom of each built-in leg, with the cap's upper edge approximately 1/2 inch above the foot bottom.

7. Sew the hoof caps down, leaving their brown edges visible against the rust-colored legs.

8. Attach two matching hoof caps to the corresponding feet on the reverse body piece A.

You should now have four hoof caps attached to the two main-body pieces, two on the front and two on the back.

Step 7. Make the Tail

1. Place the cream tail-tip piece J onto the visible side of one rust-brown tail piece I.

2. Position the cream patch toward the pointed outer end. Stitch it down with cream running stitches.

3. Put the second rust-brown tail piece behind the decorated front, aligning the outer edges.

4. Blanket-stitch around the tail, leaving the narrow base open.

5. Add a very small amount of stuffing if you want a slightly rounded tail. Don't make it heavy.

6. Position the open tail base between the body front and back at the upper-right rump. The pointed cream tip should curve upward and remain visible above the saddle.

7. Tack the tail base securely to the inside of the body seam.

Step 8. Sew and Stuff the Main Body

1. Place the front and back body pieces A together with their outer edges aligned. Keep the tail tucked between them at the rump.

2. Begin blanket-stitching along the body edge using cream or pale-gold embroidery floss.

3. Continue around the two built-in legs. Work carefully around the rounded hoof bottoms so the felt doesn't gather.

4. Stitch around the rump, catching the tail base securely.

5. Leave an opening approximately 1 inch long along the upper back.

6. Add small amounts of stuffing, working it gently down into the two built-in legs before filling the middle of the body.

7. Spread the remaining stuffing evenly across the torso. Avoid packing the center so firmly that the body becomes round.

8. Close the opening with matching blanket stitches.

Checkpoint: Lay the body flat. The two built-in legs should hang naturally, the tail should point upward, and the chest and underbelly patches should be visible on the front.

Step 9. Sew the Two Foreground Legs

These are the two additional legs that give the reindeer its four-leg appearance.

1. Take the two foreground front-leg pieces B. Position a dark-brown hoof cap Q on each leg face, matching the rounded lower edge.

2. Sew both hoof caps in place.

3. Match the front and back B pieces. Blanket-stitch around their edges, leaving a small opening near the upper end.

4. Add a little stuffing, concentrating it along the middle of the leg. Close the opening.

5. Repeat with the two foreground hind-leg pieces C and the remaining two hoof caps Q.

6. Lay the completed front leg B against the body shoulder. Its hoof should hang slightly toward the left of the built-in front hoof.

7. Position hind leg C in front of the rump, slightly left of the built-in rear hoof.

8. Check the placement before sewing. All four hoof bottoms should be visible and hang at approximately comparable heights.

9. Secure the upper 1/2 inch of each foreground leg to the main body front using several hidden stitches. Don't sew down the entire length of the leg.

The leg tops will be partly concealed by the head, scarf, and saddle. Leave the lower legs free so they keep their separate appearance.

Checkpoint: Count four dark-brown hooves across the front. If one leg disappears behind another, adjust its upper placement slightly before making the attachment permanent.

Step 10. Make the Green Scalloped Saddle Blanket

The layered saddle is the signature detail on this ornament. The green scallops sit underneath a smaller red panel, with a cream star centered on top.

1. Lay the forest-green saddle piece K flat with its scalloped edge pointing downward.

2. Using cream embroidery floss, work small decorative stitches along the scalloped lower edge, following the dashed guides on the printable template.

3. Add approximately six to nine small cream knots or dots across the visible green area. Space them between the scallops and embroidered details.

4. Keep the embroidery light so the scalloped outline remains the main feature.

5. Place the red saddle panel L over the green piece temporarily. Make sure the green scallops extend clearly below the red panel.

Don't sew the layers together yet. Decorate the red panel first.

Step 11. Embroider the Red Saddle Panel and Star

1. Lay red saddle panel L flat, with its rounded lower corners pointing downward.

2. Position cream star M near the center of the panel.

3. Sew the star in place using short cream running stitches around its five points. Keep the points flat and evenly spread.

4. Add a few tiny cream stitches toward the center of the star for the embroidered texture shown in the example image.

5. Using cream floss, embroider one small upright branch to the left of the star and another to the right.

6. Add pairs of short diagonal leaf stitches along each branch.

7. Embroider a broken cream running-stitch border approximately 1/8 inch inside the red panel's outer edge.

8. Place the completed red panel over the green scalloped base. Center it so the green scallops remain visible along the bottom and sides.

9. Sew the red panel to the green base with small stitches near its outer edge.

10. Position the completed saddle over the upper-right side of the reindeer body, above the back legs.

11. Secure the saddle along its upper and side edges with matching thread. Leave the lower scallops free enough to retain their individual shape.

Checkpoint: The finished saddle should show a red embroidered panel with a cream star centered above a row of rounded green scallops. The saddle must not cover the cream tail tip.

Don't switch the red and green layers. Their arrangement is part of the approved design.

Step 12. Embroider the Red Scarf

The scarf has a wrapped neckband and two hanging ends. The long end hangs down beside the front leg, with the shorter end layered behind it.

1. Lay long scarf piece O and short scarf piece P flat.

2. Using cream floss, backstitch a slender branching stem along the length of each scarf end.

3. Add small pairs of diagonal leaf stitches along the stems. Keep the embroidery inside the scarf edges.

4. At the lower end of each scarf piece, make short parallel cuts approximately 1/4 inch deep and 1/8 inch apart to form the fringe.

5. Stop each cut at the fringe guide. Don't cut through the embroidered portion of the scarf.

6. Take neckband N and embroider a narrow row of cream running stitches along its length.

7. Arrange the two hanging scarf ends together, keeping P slightly behind O.

Set the scarf pieces aside for now. They'll cover the head-to-body join after assembly.

Assemble and Finish Your Felt Reindeer Ornament

Now that the individual pieces are sewn, you can bring the ornament together. The main thing is to keep the reindeer's head facing forward while the body points toward the right, just as it does in the example image.

Step 13. Attach the Head to the Body

1. Lay the body flat with the decorated side facing up.

2. Position the completed head over the upper-left shoulder, allowing the chin to overlap the shoulder and upper chest by approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

3. Turn the head until the face looks straight forward. The two eyes should remain level, and the antlers should rise evenly above the head.

4. Hold the head in place with a small clip or pin placed away from the embroidery.

5. Using brown thread and ladder stitch, attach the back of the head to the body along the overlapping area.

6. Make several additional hidden stitches at both lower corners of the head. These reinforcement stitches help prevent the head from twisting when the ornament hangs.

7. Check that the cream chest patch is still partly visible below the head.

8. Lift the ornament gently by its hanging loop to check the head's position. If the head tilts too far forward, add a couple more hidden stitches along the lower back of the head.

Step 14. Attach the Scarf

1. Place the shorter scarf end P behind the longer end O.

2. Position both ends on the viewer-left side of the neck so they hang down over the upper front leg.

3. Tack their upper ends to the body just beneath the head. Keep the attachment stitches within the area that the neckband will cover.

4. Place red neckband N across the front of the neck, over the scarf ends and the head-to-body join.

5. Wrap its ends toward the back of the neck, adjusting the overlap without pulling the head out of position.

6. Sew the neckband down along its upper and lower edges with red thread. Secure the ends at the back.

7. Arrange the two scarf ends so both fringed tips are visible.

Don't pull the scarf tight enough to flatten the cream chest. It should look comfortably wrapped around the neck.

Step 15. Check the Decorations

Lay the ornament beside the example image and look at the main details before fastening off the final threads.

Head: The cream face is centered on the brown head. Both eyes are closed, the pink cheeks are visible, and the brown nose sits above the embroidered smile.

Antlers: Two branching dark-brown antlers rise above the head. The cream embroidered sprigs and little red berries face forward.

Holly: The green leaves and red berries appear on the viewer-left side, between the ear and antler.

Body: All four legs have dark-brown hoof caps. The two foreground legs are attached separately, while the other two are part of the main body.

Tail: The little brown tail curves upward, with its cream tip visible behind the saddle.

Saddle: The red panel and cream star sit on top of the green scalloped base. The green scallops remain visible beneath the red panel.

Scarf: The long and short red ends hang on the viewer-left side. Their cream embroidery and fringed ends are visible.

Step 16. Finish the Ornament

1. Secure each remaining thread on the back of its felt layer using a few small stitches. Pass the needle between the layers before trimming the thread close to the surface.

2. Smooth the scarf fringe with your fingers and separate any strands that are stuck together.

3. Check the antler tips for loose stitches or exposed stiffener.

4. Check that the hanging loop is firmly attached between the antlers.

5. Hang the ornament from the loop and allow the legs to settle naturally. A slight tilt is fine, but the face and star should remain visible.

6. If the ornament leans heavily to one side, check the head attachment and move the hanging loop's effective center slightly before securing any additional stitches.

7. Trim loose thread ends and gently straighten the ears, antlers, scarf, and saddle.

You don't need to add anything else. The embroidered face, Christmas scarf, and little star saddle already give the reindeer plenty of detail.

Important: This is a hanging decoration, not a baby toy. Keep the ornament, hanging cord, and small decorative details out of reach of babies and young children. Don't attach it to a crib or place it in a baby's sleep space.

If you'd like another hand-sewing project after finishing this one, visit the free felt crafts and patterns collection for more ideas.

Helpful Tips for Sewing Your Felt Reindeer

A few small adjustments can make a difference when you're working with the narrow legs, antlers, and layered decorations. Here are the places I'd pay attention to before sewing everything permanently.

If the Antlers Won't Stand Upright

Try adding a thin piece of sew-in stiffener between the dark-brown antler layers. Cut the stiffener slightly smaller than the felt outline so it stays hidden.

If you've already sewn the antlers, check whether their bases are attached firmly inside the head. A loose base can make an otherwise firm antler lean forward.

Don't use wire to hold them upright. A lightweight fabric stiffener is the better choice for this decorative pattern.

If the Head Looks Too Large or Tilts Forward

The oversized head is part of the design, so don't reduce the printed template to make it smaller.

Instead, check where the chin overlaps the shoulder. Move the head slightly lower if necessary, then secure it with extra hidden ladder stitches at the back.

Make sure the head hasn't been overstuffed. It should be gently rounded rather than thick and heavy.

If You Can't See All Four Legs

Before attaching the two foreground legs permanently, arrange them over the body so their hoof caps are visible.

If two legs line up directly on top of each other, move the separate foreground leg slightly toward the viewer-left side. About 1/8 inch may be enough.

Keep the upper leg attachments hidden beneath the saddle and scarf where possible.

If the Saddle Scallops Disappear

The green scallops should extend below the red saddle panel. If they don't, lift the red panel slightly before stitching the two layers together.

Don't pull the green felt tight against the body when attaching it. Let the scalloped edge retain its shape.

The cream star belongs near the center of the red panel, not on the green base.

If the Blanket Stitch Pulls or Ripples

Check that the stitches are evenly spaced and that you're not pulling the thread too tightly.

For narrow curves, make slightly smaller stitches rather than forcing wide stitches around the shape.

If an edge starts to wrinkle, loosen the last few stitches and work them again with gentler tension.

If the Ornament Doesn't Match the Expected Size

First, check the 1-inch calibration square on your printed template. If it's too small or too large, reprint at Actual Size before cutting more felt.

If the square is correct, look at how far the head overlaps the shoulder and where the separate legs are attached. Those placements affect the overall height.

Don't trim the legs or head to correct a small difference in size. Check the assembly arrangement first.

If the Scarf Looks Bulky

Keep the neckband flat and avoid stacking too many folded layers under the chin.

The two hanging ends should be attached beneath the collar, not wrapped repeatedly around the neck.

Leave the fringe free. You can trim a few uneven strands after the scarf is attached, but don't shorten the entire scarf unless you've checked its position against the example image.

Felt Reindeer Ornament Pattern FAQs

Can I sew this felt reindeer ornament without a sewing machine?

Yes. The pattern is designed for hand sewing. Blanket stitch joins the larger pieces, running stitch attaches the appliqués, and backstitch makes the embroidered details. You won't need a sewing machine.

Can I make the ornament without stuffing?

You can leave the head, body, and legs flat if you prefer a thinner ornament. The finished shape will be flatter than the example image, and the head may need additional hidden stitches to keep its position.

I'd keep a little stuffing in the body and head if you want the lightly padded appearance shown in the pattern.

Can I use acrylic craft felt instead of wool-blend felt?

Yes. Acrylic craft felt is an option, particularly if you're using materials you already have.

Choose sheets that hold their shape when lifted. If the antlers bend easily, add lightweight sew-in stiffener between the layers.

Can I change the scarf or saddle colors?

Of course. You could use burgundy instead of Christmas red or a darker evergreen for the saddle.

If you're following the example image closely, keep the arrangement the same: red scarf, green scalloped base, red upper saddle panel, and cream star. That combination is the defining decoration on this particular reindeer.

How should I store the finished felt ornament?

Keep it in a dry box where the antlers won't be crushed. Place a piece of tissue paper around the scarf and saddle if you're packing several ornaments together.

I'd store this one flat rather than pressing it beneath heavier Christmas decorations. That will help preserve the antler branches, raised tail, and little scalloped blanket.

Is the finished reindeer suitable as a baby toy?

No. This pattern is intended as a Christmas hanging decoration. The hanging loop, narrow antlers, and small stitched decorations are not designed for infant play.

Display it out of reach of babies and young children.