Free Crochet Candy Corn Lovey Pattern

By Jan Bay

This free crochet candy corn lovey pattern makes a square cream, orange and golden yellow blanket with a lightly stuffed candy corn head sewn upright at the center.
The finished project measures about 16 inches square after the border is added. It is intended for supervised cuddling and play, not for an infant sleep space.

Materials, Finished Size and Crochet Terms

The candy corn character is made from two matching triangular panels. One becomes the embroidered front and the other becomes the plain back. After the panels are joined and lightly stuffed, the lower front and back edges are sewn separately to the center of a square blanket worked in horizontal half double crochet stripes. The two attachment lines form a narrow base that helps the head remain upright.

Finished blanket size: Approximately 16 inches square after the two-round cream border is added.

Finished head size: Approximately 6 inches tall and 7 inches wide after seaming and light stuffing.

Skill level: Easy. The pattern uses chains, single crochet, half double crochet, decreases, color changes, black satin-stitch embroidery and hand sewing.

Yarn: Smooth, washable medium weight number 4 yarn in the following amounts:

• Cream: one full skein containing at least 200 yards or 183 meters
• Orange: one full skein containing at least 175 yards or 160 meters
• Golden yellow: one full skein containing at least 175 yards or 160 meters
• Black: approximately 2 yards or 2 meters for the embroidered eyes and smile

Yarn brands vary considerably. Buy by yardage rather than weight alone because two skeins that both weigh 100 grams may contain very different amounts of yarn.

A smooth acrylic, cotton or acrylic-cotton blend can be used if it produces the stated gauge and can be washed according to the care you want for the finished lovey. Avoid fuzzy novelty yarn because it can hide the stitches, blur the embroidered face and make the joining seams difficult to inspect.

Additional materials:

• 5 mm crochet hook for the striped blanket
• 4 mm crochet hook for the candy corn head
• Small amount of washable polyester fiberfill
• Blunt-tip yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Rustproof pins
• Measuring tape

Years of editing handmade baby patterns have made me particular about the small places where readers are most likely to get stuck: the first and last stitch of a row, the side-edge count and the seam that receives the most handling.

Blanket gauge: 14 half double crochet stitches and 11 rows equal approximately 4 inches with the 5 mm hook.

Head gauge: 16 single crochet stitches and 18 rows equal approximately 4 inches with the 4 mm hook.

Check both gauges before beginning. The blanket can tolerate a small difference, but the head fabric needs to be close enough that the fiberfill does not show between stitches.

Crochet abbreviations used in this pattern:

• ch: chain
• hdc: half double crochet
• sc: single crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together
• sl st: slip stitch
• st or sts: stitch or stitches
• rep: repeat

This pattern uses standard United States crochet terminology. The turning chain at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch unless an instruction specifically says that it does.

Important use note: This handmade lovey is for supervised cuddling and play. Do not place it in a crib, bassinet, play yard or other infant sleep space. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission safe sleep guidance says that a baby’s sleep space should contain nothing but a fitted sheet.

Crochet the Horizontally Striped Square Lovey Blanket

The blanket begins as a simple square worked back and forth in half double crochet. Six-row color bands make the stripes easy to count, and the repeating cream, orange and golden yellow sequence keeps the candy corn colors visible without making the blanket look busy.

Beginning chain: With the 5 mm hook and cream yarn, ch 54.

Row 1: Hdc in the third ch from the hook and in each remaining ch across. Ch 2 and turn. You should have 52 hdc stitches.

Rows 2 through 6: Hdc in each st across. Ch 2 and turn at the end of Rows 2 through 5. At the end of Row 6, fasten off the cream yarn.

For every remaining blanket row, ch 2 and turn at the end of each row except the final row of a color band. After fastening off a completed color band, turn the work before joining the next color in the first stitch of the new row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Keep the first and last stitch of every row easy to see. A stitch marker placed in the first stitch can prevent the edges from slowly narrowing as the blanket grows.

Rows 7 through 12: Join orange yarn in the first stitch. Ch 2, then hdc in each st across. Continue in orange until six rows have been completed. Fasten off after Row 12.

Rows 13 through 18: Join golden yellow yarn and work six rows of hdc. Fasten off after Row 18.

Rows 19 through 24: Join cream yarn and work six rows of hdc. Fasten off after Row 24.

Rows 25 through 30: Join orange yarn and work six rows of hdc. Fasten off after Row 30.

Rows 31 through 36: Join golden yellow yarn and work six rows of hdc. Fasten off after Row 36.

Rows 37 through 42: Join cream yarn and work the final six rows of hdc. Do not fasten off at the end of Row 42.

Blanket checkpoint: Before adding the border, the blanket body should measure approximately 14.9 inches wide by 15.3 inches long when laid flat without stretching.

Add the Two-Round Cream Border

A narrow cream border finishes the square and gives the head attachment a clean background. I would rather give you a dependable side-edge count than tell you to work stitches evenly and leave you wondering why the finished square puckers.

Border Round 1: Continue with cream yarn at the end of Row 42. Ch 1. Work each three-stitch corner group in the corner gap where two edges meet. These corner stitches are additional to the stated edge-stitch counts.

Work 56 sc down the first side edge as follows: [work 1 sc in each of the next 2 row ends, then work 2 sc in the next row end] 14 times.

Work 3 sc in the corner gap.

Work 1 sc in each of the 52 stitch bases across the foundation edge. Work 3 sc in the next corner gap.

Work 56 sc up the second side edge using the same placement sequence: [work 1 sc in each of the next 2 row ends, then work 2 sc in the next row end] 14 times.

Work 3 sc in the next corner gap.

Work 1 sc in each of the 52 actual half double crochet stitches across the top edge. Do not work into the turning chain. Work 3 sc in the final corner gap and join with a sl st to the first sc. You should have 228 sc. The joining slip stitch does not count as a stitch.

Border Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around, except at the center stitch of each three-stitch corner group. In each of those four center corner stitches, work 3 sc instead of 1 sc. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. You should have 236 sc.

Lay the blanket flat without stretching it. All four corners should remain visible, and the border should follow the square without pulling inward or forming waves.

Weave each yarn tail through several stitches on the wrong side, reverse direction and weave through a second group of stitches before trimming.

Crochet Candy Corn Lovey Pattern: Make Two Head Panels

The candy corn head is made from two matching flat triangles. Work both pieces with the 4 mm hook so the stitches stay close enough to hold a small amount of stuffing without gaps.

Use golden yellow for the wide lower section, orange through the center and cream at the pointed top. Fasten off each color rather than carrying unused yarn along the side of the triangle.

Make two identical panels.

Single crochet fabric is reversible. For each panel, choose the smoother-looking side as the right side and mark it with a removable stitch marker. Use the same orientation for both panels. One marked right side will become the embroidered front, and the other will become the outside of the back panel.

With golden yellow yarn, ch 31.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 30 sc stitches.

Row 2: Sc2tog over the first 2 sts, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 28 sts.

Row 3: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 28 sts.

Row 4: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 26 sts.

Row 5: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 26 sts.

Row 6: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 24 sts.

Row 7: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 24 sts.

Row 8: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 22 sts.

Row 9: Sc in each st across. Fasten off golden yellow. You should have 22 sts.

Turn the panel. Join orange yarn in the first stitch of the new row.

Row 10: Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 20 sts.

Row 11: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 20 sts.

Row 12: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 18 sts.

Row 13: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 18 sts.

Row 14: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 16 sts.

Row 15: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 16 sts.

Row 16: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 14 sts.

Row 17: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 14 sts.

Row 18: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 12 sts.

Row 19: Sc in each st across. Fasten off orange. You should have 12 sts.

Turn the panel. Join cream yarn in the first stitch of the new row.

Row 20: Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 10 sts.

Row 21: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 10 sts.

Row 22: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 8 sts.

Row 23: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 8 sts.

Row 24: Sc2tog, sc across to the final 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 6 sts.

Row 25: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 6 sts.

Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts, then sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 4 sts.

Row 27: Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 4 sts.

Row 28: Sc2tog twice. Ch 1 and turn. You should have 2 sts.

Row 29: Sc2tog. You should have 1 st. Fasten off.

For assembly, cut one 30-inch length of cream yarn, two 24-inch lengths of orange yarn, one 48-inch length of golden yellow yarn and one additional 18-inch length of golden yellow yarn for closing the stuffing opening.

Weave the remaining color-change tails into the wrong side of both panels. Place the pieces side by side and confirm that their edges, color changes and bottom widths match before embroidering the face.

Embroider the Black Satin-Stitch Eyes and Smile

Set one panel aside as the plain back. Place the front panel with the right side facing you, the cream tip at the top and the golden yellow section at the bottom.

Thread the yarn needle with black yarn. Make each eye as a small filled oval using four or five short vertical satin stitches placed close together. Position the eyes in the lower half of the orange section, centered from side to side and approximately five stitches apart.

Embroider a small curved smile below the eyes, close to the orange and golden yellow color transition. Keep the expression compact so it remains distinct after the head is lightly stuffed.

Secure the black yarn on the wrong side and weave the ends beneath several nearby stitches. Use embroidered features only. Do not substitute plastic safety eyes, buttons, beads or glued pieces.

Candy corn does not need extra pieces to be recognizable. The broad triangle, three clean bands of color and little embroidered face do all the work.

Assemble and Lightly Stuff the Candy Corn Head

Place the embroidered front panel and plain back panel together with their wrong sides facing inward and their right sides visible. Align the cream tips, both color-change lines, the lower corners and the wide golden yellow bottom edges.

Once the panel orientation is confirmed, remove both right-side stitch markers and account for them. Pin the panel edges in several places so they cannot shift.

With the embroidered panel facing you, use the right side of the head for the stuffing opening. Mark the nine golden yellow row ends between the orange and golden yellow color-change line and the lower corner. At the stated gauge, this opening measures approximately 2 inches. Leave these nine matching row-end positions unsewn until the head has been stuffed.

Match the panel edges carefully as you sew. Along the sides, work one whipstitch through each pair of matching row ends. Across the wide bottom, work one whipstitch through each pair of matching foundation-stitch positions. Do not skip an edge position or place two joining stitches through one position because either can pucker the finished head.

Thread the yarn needle with one 24-inch length of orange yarn. Beginning at the upper end of the marked opening, whipstitch upward along the orange portion of the right side until you reach the cream section.

Secure the orange yarn inside the head. Thread the needle with the 30-inch cream length. Continue whipstitching up the cream portion of the right side, over the tip and down the cream portion of the left side.

Secure the cream yarn inside the head. Thread the needle with the second 24-inch orange length. Continue down the orange portion of the left side.

At the golden yellow color change, secure the orange yarn inside the head. Thread the needle with the 48-inch golden yellow length.

Whipstitch down the golden yellow portion of the left side and completely across the wide bottom edge. Stop at the lower-right corner, which is the lower end of the marked stuffing opening. Leave all nine golden yellow row-end positions on the right side unsewn.

At this point, every edge should be closed except for the nine unsewn golden yellow row-end positions on the right side. Do not turn the head right side out. The right sides are already facing outward.

Remove every assembly pin and account for all of them before adding the fiberfill.

Add small pieces of washable polyester fiberfill through the side opening. Place a little stuffing at the cream tip first, then fill the orange center and both lower corners.

The head should feel lightly padded and should retain its broad triangular shape. Do not pack the fiberfill firmly. Excess stuffing can round the triangle, distort the embroidered face and make the lower edges difficult to attach neatly.

Thread the needle with the remaining 18-inch golden yellow length. Close the side opening by working one matching whipstitch through each of the nine pairs of row ends. Bury the yarn tail inside the stuffed head before trimming it.

Gently shape the tip, sides and lower corners with your fingers. Confirm that the bottom seam is completely closed and that the lower front and back edges remain broad enough to form the attachment base.

Sew the Upright Head to the Exact Center of the Blanket

Fold the blanket in half from left to right and lightly mark the fold at the center. Open the blanket, then fold it from top to bottom and mark the second fold. The intersection of the two fold lines is the exact center of the square.

Stand the candy corn head upright at that center point with the embroidered face directed toward the lower edge of the blanket. Center the closed bottom seam over the marked intersection.

Allow the lightly stuffed head to settle into its natural depth. Gently spread the lower front and back edges so that both touch the blanket. Pin the lower front edge approximately one-half inch in front of the center mark and the lower back edge approximately one-half inch behind it. The two pinned attachment lines should be about 1 inch apart.

Check the head from the front, back and both sides. The cream tip should point upward, and the head should stand without leaning noticeably forward or backward.

Thread a yarn needle with a 40 to 48-inch strand of golden yellow yarn for sewing both attachment lines.

Beginning at one lower corner, sew the lower front edge to the blanket. Pass the needle through the blanket fabric and through the front panel approximately one row above the closed bottom seam. Continue across to the opposite lower corner using small stitches placed close together.

Do not pass these stitches through the back panel. The front attachment must form its own line.

At the opposite lower corner, pass the needle beneath the head to the nearest end of the pinned back attachment line. Keep this connecting strand hidden beneath the head, and do not pull it tightly enough to draw the two attachment lines together.

Turn the blanket. Beginning at that end of the pinned line, sew the lower back edge to the blanket, again catching the back panel approximately one row above the bottom seam. Continue to the opposite lower corner. Do not pass these stitches through the front panel.

Add several reinforcing stitches at all four ends of the two attachment lines. These two parallel seams form the narrow base that keeps the stuffed head upright. Sewing only through the ridge of the closed bottom seam would create a hinge and allow the head to fall forward or backward.

Remove every attachment pin and account for all of them before continuing.

A small amount of natural gathering immediately around the attachment is expected. The surrounding blanket should still show straight horizontal stripes and four distinct corners.

Knot the yarn beneath the head. Weave the tail through several blanket stitches, reverse direction and weave through a second group of stitches before trimming.

Inspect both attachment lines from the front, back and sides. Add another stitch anywhere a gap appears between either golden yellow lower edge and the blanket.

Wash-Test and Inspect the Finished Lovey

Weave in every remaining yarn tail and inspect the front and back of the blanket. Tug gently at the head, both lower corners, every color-change seam and the embroidered face.

A pretty finished photograph is not enough for a baby project. Both attachment seams should remain secure after washing, and the black satin-stitch eyes should stay exactly where they were embroidered.

Wash the lovey according to the yarn manufacturer’s directions. When the yarn permits machine washing, place the project in a mesh laundry bag and use a gentle cycle.

Reshape the square blanket and broad candy corn head while damp. Confirm that the head remains upright, the blanket retains four visible corners and the stripes continue horizontally beneath the attachment.

Allow the project to dry completely. Repeat the seam inspection and gentle tug test after drying. No stuffing, yarn ends, open seams or loose embroidered stitches should be visible.

Inspect the lovey regularly during use. Stop using it until repaired if any seam, yarn end or embroidered feature becomes loose.

Optional Adjustments That Preserve the Lovey Construction

The head, horizontal stripes, square blanket and center attachment define this version of the pattern. Keep those features in place when changing the size or colors.

Make a smaller lovey: With cream yarn, ch 42. Hdc in the third ch from the hook and in each remaining ch for 40 hdc stitches. Ch 2 and turn.

Work 30 rows total, keeping 40 hdc in every row. Work six five-row color bands in this order: cream, orange, golden yellow, cream, orange and golden yellow. Ch 2 and turn at the end of every row except Rows 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30. At the end of each color band, fasten off, turn the work and join the next color in the first stitch of the new row.

After Row 30, fasten off golden yellow. With the top edge facing you, join cream yarn in the upper-right corner gap and ch 1.

Smaller Border Round 1: Work 40 sc down the right side edge as follows: [work 1 sc in each of the next 2 row ends, then work 2 sc in the next row end] 10 times.

Work 3 sc in the bottom-right corner gap.

Work 1 sc in each of the 40 stitch bases across the foundation edge. Work 3 sc in the bottom-left corner gap.

Work 40 sc up the left side edge using the same side-edge repeat. Work 3 sc in the upper-left corner gap.

Work 1 sc in each of the 40 actual half double crochet stitches across the top edge. Do not work into the turning chain. Work 3 sc in the starting upper-right corner gap and join with a sl st to the first sc. You should have 172 sc. The joining slip stitch does not count as a stitch.

Smaller Border Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around, except at the center stitch of each three-stitch corner group. In each of those four center corner stitches, work 3 sc instead of 1 sc. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. You should have 180 sc.

Use another golden yellow shade: Mustard, amber or deep yellow can replace the original golden yellow. Keep enough contrast between the cream, orange and yellow sections for all three bands to remain distinct.

Adjust the smile: The embroidered smile can be made slightly wider or shallower. Keep the eyes as small filled black satin stitches to preserve the intended embroidered expression.

Do not add plastic eyes, buttons, beads, bows or glued decorations to a lovey intended for a baby.

For another friendly seasonal project, the free crochet ghost pattern uses embroidered features and simple shaping. The crochet bat lovey pattern offers another Halloween design with an attached blanket body.

You can also browse the crochet animal lovey patterns for year-round baby gift ideas, or make the crochet cat lovey pattern when you want another project with securely embroidered features.

Troubleshooting Common Candy Corn Lovey Problems

A few small adjustments can correct most shaping and finishing problems before the lovey is assembled. Check the blanket and head panels as you work rather than waiting until every piece is complete.

The blanket edges are getting narrower: Count the stitches at the end of every few rows. The turning chain can hide the first stitch, and the final stitch may be easy to miss. Place a marker in the first and last stitch of each row until the edges remain even without it.

The blanket is wider than it is long: At the stated gauge, 52 stitches measure approximately 14.9 inches and 42 rows measure approximately 15.3 inches before the border. If your blanket is wider than it is long, the row gauge is too short. Adjust the hook size or tension until 11 rows measure 4 inches, then rework the blanket body. Do not add rows while retaining the original 56-sc side border because that border count is calculated specifically for 42 row ends.

The border is rippling: Confirm that you worked exactly 56 sc along each 42-row side edge, 52 sc across the top and foundation edges, and 3 sc in each corner gap. If the counts are correct, remove the border and work it with slightly firmer tension or a smaller hook. Do not remove stitches from the prescribed side-edge repeat.

The border is pulling inward: Confirm that no row end or edge stitch was skipped. If the stitch counts are correct, remove the border and work it more loosely or use a larger hook for the border only. Keep the original 228-stitch Round 1 and 236-stitch Round 2 totals.

The candy corn panels do not match: Compare them after every color section. Confirm the stitch count at the end of each decrease row before continuing. A missing decrease near the bottom can make one triangle noticeably wider than the other.

The color-change edges look uneven: Follow the color-change method used in the pattern. Finish the final row of the color, fasten off, turn the panel, then join the new color in the first stitch of the next row. Keep the yarn tails on the wrong side and weave them in after the panel is complete.

The cream tip curls: Lightly dampen the panel and pin it flat before assembly. Do not stretch the tip longer. A small amount of fiberfill will help define the point after the two panels are joined.

The embroidered face disappears after stuffing: Remove a little fiberfill from the center of the head. The face should rest on a gently padded surface rather than a tightly rounded one.

The head leans after attachment: Add a few reinforcing stitches along the lower side that lifts away from the blanket. Check that both bottom corners of the candy corn head are secured at equal distances from the blanket center.

The finished lovey feels stiff: The stitches may be tighter than the pattern gauge. Washing can relax some yarns, but a noticeably dense blanket may be more comfortable when remade with a hook one size larger.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Crochet Candy Corn Lovey Pattern

Can I use cotton yarn for this lovey?

Yes. Smooth cotton yarn gives the stitches a crisp appearance and keeps the candy corn stripes well defined. Cotton can feel heavier than acrylic, so check the finished blanket as you work and move up one hook size if the fabric feels too dense.

Can the candy corn head be crocheted in the round?

It can, but the two-panel construction is easier for beginners and gives you a flat surface for embroidering the face. The front and back panels also make it simple to control the amount of stuffing and keep the triangle from becoming too rounded.

What can I use instead of golden yellow?

A warm mustard, amber or deep yellow yarn will keep the traditional candy corn appearance. Very pale yellow can blend into the cream section, while brown or red changes the character enough that it may no longer read clearly as candy corn.

How much yarn does the complete project require?

For the stated size, purchase at least 200 yards of cream, 175 yards of orange and 175 yards of golden yellow, plus approximately 2 yards of black yarn for the face. Yarn use varies with gauge, fiber and stitch tension, so compare yardage rather than assuming that every 100-gram skein contains the same amount.

Can I add arms or legs?

Small crocheted arms can be sewn beside the head, but they are not necessary for the design. Leaving them off keeps the project simple and reduces the number of seams that need to be checked regularly.

Can I use safety eyes instead of embroidery?

No. Use small filled black satin-stitch eyes for this baby lovey. Plastic eyes are separate pieces that can loosen, while the embroidered eyes lie flat and match the construction shown throughout the pattern.

How can I make the blanket square if my row gauge is different?

Make a gauge swatch and adjust the hook size until 14 half double crochet stitches and 11 rows measure approximately 4 inches. At that gauge, 52 stitches by 42 rows produces a blanket body measuring approximately 14.9 by 15.3 inches before the border. The 56-sc side-border count is calculated for exactly 42 row ends, so do not add or remove blanket rows while keeping the original border count.

Does the lovey need to be blocked?

Blocking is optional, but it can straighten the blanket edges and sharpen the candy corn tip. Lightly dampen the pieces, arrange them on a flat towel and allow them to dry before assembly. Follow the yarn label and avoid heat unless the fiber instructions specifically allow it.

A Candy Corn Lovey That Keeps the Details Simple

The appeal of this project is not decoration piled on top of decoration. The broad candy corn shape, three familiar color bands and little embroidered face are enough to make the character easy to recognize.

The square blanket gives the project room to drape and gather while keeping four distinct corners. Sewing the lower front and back edges to the blanket on opposite sides of the center mark creates a narrow base that makes the head part of the lovey rather than a separate toy resting on top.

Before giving the lovey as a gift, include the yarn care instructions and explain that it is for supervised cuddling and play rather than infant sleep.

Continue browsing the free baby crochet patterns for more handmade gift projects, or visit the crochet baby blanket patterns collection when you are ready to make a larger striped blanket.

For more October characters, the seasonal Halloween crochet ideas include the complete ghost, bat, pumpkin, spider and black cat patterns alongside this candy corn lovey.