Free Crochet Santa Face Applique and Ornament Pattern

By Jan Bay

My free crochet Santa face applique and ornament pattern makes a jolly little Santa Claus with a wonderfully curly white beard, a dapper handlebar mustache and his signature red hat. You can sew the finished Santa onto a Christmas stocking, gift bag or decorative holiday project, or add a hanging loop to make an ornament for your Christmas tree. Both versions use embroidered eyes, and the ornament can have an optional jingle bell.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Materials for the Free Crochet Santa Face Applique and Ornament Pattern

You'll only need small amounts of yarn for this Santa, but I'd choose a smooth, firmly twisted yarn rather than anything fluffy. His little beard spirals and those wonderful curls at the ends of his mustache are what make him different. You don't want the yarn hiding all that detail.

Yarn: Medium-weight (Category 4) worsted yarn in the following colors. The quantities are estimates for one Santa, not amounts measured from a completed sample.

• Cranberry or Christmas red: approximately 15 to 20 yards for the hat, berries and optional hanging loop.
• Ivory or soft white: approximately 35 to 45 yards for the beard, mustache and hat brim.
• Warm peach or light skin tone: approximately 10 to 15 yards for the face and nose.
• Soft rosy pink: approximately 2 to 3 yards for the cheeks.
• Holly green: approximately 3 to 5 yards for the leaves.
• Dark brown embroidery floss or fine yarn: a short length for the embroidered eyes.

Other supplies:

• 3.5 mm (E/4) crochet hook, or the size needed to obtain the reference gauge.
• Yarn needle for assembly and weaving in ends.
• Embroidery needle for the eyes.
• Removable stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Measuring tape.
• Rustproof pins for arranging the pieces before sewing.
• A small amount of matching yarn scraps to fill the raised nose.
• Optional small gold jingle bell for the hanging ornament only.

You won't need plastic safety eyes, glue or craft wire. Santa's eyes are stitched directly onto the face, and the curved pieces are shaped and sewn into place.

If you're making the applique, you can skip the bell and hanging loop entirely. I'd also leave off any hardware when attaching Santa to a Christmas stocking, fabric gift bag or other decorative sewn project.

Safety note: This is a decorative project, not a baby toy or teether. Small sewn-on pieces and bells can become choking hazards if they detach. Keep the ornament and its hanging loop out of babies' and young children's reach, and never place it in an infant's sleep space. Don't attach the dimensional version to items a baby may mouth or pull apart.

Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate. Most pieces use basic stitches. You'll need a little patience for shaping the mustache, arranging the five beard curls and sewing everything together neatly.

Finished Size, Gauge and Pattern Notes

This Santa is intended to be large enough for his embroidered expression and individual beard curls to show clearly, but small enough to use as a Christmas ornament or decorative applique.

Expected finished dimensions:

• Overall width: approximately 5 1/2 to 6 inches across the mustache curls.
• Overall height: approximately 6 to 6 1/2 inches, from the uppermost part of the folded hat to the lowest beard curl, excluding the hanging loop.
• Peach face circle: approximately 3 3/4 to 4 inches across.
• White hat brim: approximately 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 inches long.
• Individual beard rosettes: approximately 1 1/4 inches across after shaping, with some variation depending on how tightly they're coiled.

These are calculated design targets. The pattern has been checked for stitch-count consistency, but the finished measurements have not been confirmed by physically crocheting a sample.

Reference Gauge

Target gauge: Approximately 20 single crochet stitches and 22 rows = 4 inches, worked in a flat single crochet swatch with the 3.5 mm hook.

You'll get a more useful gauge check by making a small swatch than by measuring one of Santa's tiny decorative pieces. Work at least 24 stitches across for 26 rows, then measure a 4-inch area away from the edges.

The 60-stitch outer round of the peach face gives a calculated circumference of approximately 12 inches at 5 single crochet stitches per inch. Dividing by pi gives a diameter close to 3.8 inches. The exact measurement depends on how the increases lie and how the fabric is blocked.

The hat uses half double crochet stitches, so its row height won't necessarily match the single crochet gauge. Keep the same yarn weight and hook size for the face, hat and brim, and measure those pieces before assembly.

How the Pattern Is Constructed

Santa is made from separate crocheted pieces sewn together in layers. First you'll crochet the peach face and embroider his eyes. Next come the mustache, five spiral beard curls, floppy hat, white brim and holly decorations.

The beard has a shaped white foundation underneath it. That's what keeps the five separate curls arranged in their three-above-two formation rather than hanging loosely from the bottom of his face.

The red cap is crocheted flat in decreasing rows. Its long tapered extension folds toward Santa's left, and a few small stitches hold the bend in place. You don't need wire to make that curve.

Both finished versions use the same Santa face. The applique has a tidy, flat back for sewing onto a decorative project. The ornament gets a hanging loop and may have a bell at the tip of the hat.

Before you begin: Work with the right side of the face toward you when arranging the features. The direction of Santa's left and right is described as you see him in the finished example image. Leave long sewing tails on the separate decorative pieces unless an instruction tells you otherwise.

Don't stuff the face, hat, mustache or beard. Only the little nose gets a few yarn scraps if needed to hold its rounded shape.

Crochet Stitches and Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology. If you're familiar with single crochet, half double crochet and basic increases and decreases, you'll have the stitches you need.

MR: Magic ring.

ch: Chain.

sc: Single crochet.

hdc: Half double crochet.

dc: Double crochet.

sl st: Slip stitch.

inc: Work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch.

sc2tog: Single crochet 2 stitches together. Insert the hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop. Insert the hook into the following stitch and draw up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

hdc2tog: Half double crochet 2 stitches together. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, insert the hook into the following stitch and draw up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.

BLO: Back loop only.

RS: Right side, or the visible front of the piece.

WS: Wrong side, or the back of the piece.

st/sts: Stitch or stitches.

Rnd: Round.

Picot: Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first of those 3 chains. The picot forms a small pointed projection.

Turning chains: The chain made at the beginning of a new row does not count as a stitch in this pattern.

Pattern repeats: Instructions inside parentheses followed by a number tell you how many times to repeat that group. The number in square brackets at the end of each round or row is the stitch count after completing it.

Work the face, nose, cheeks, rosette foundations and berries in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a stitch marker to identify the beginning of each round. Work the hat, brim, beard backing and mustache halves back and forth in rows.

If you'd like a refresher on reading crochet instructions, the Craft Yarn Council's crochet pattern guide explains the standard US stitch abbreviations used here.

One more thing before we start: keep your decorative stitches firm, but don't pull them so tightly that the little curls become stiff. We want clearly defined spirals, not knots.

Crochet Santa's Face and Embroidered Features

We'll start with Santa's little peach-colored face. His eyes are going to be embroidered, not plastic, and we'll give him two rosy cheeks and a small rounded nose. The finished face should look cheerful even before you add the mustache and beard.

Crochet the Peach Face Circle

Use warm-peach worsted yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds, moving your stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. [6 sts]

Rnd 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12 sts]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) 6 times. [18 sts]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times. [24 sts]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. [30 sts]

Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times. [36 sts]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) 6 times. [42 sts]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) 6 times. [48 sts]

Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) 6 times. [54 sts]

Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) 6 times. [60 sts]

Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a sewing tail approximately 12 inches long.

Lay the circle on a flat surface with the right side facing up. It should be reasonably flat, with no deep bowl shape or severe rippling. Gently smooth it into a circle without stretching the edge.

Size checkpoint: The circle should measure approximately 3 3/4 to 4 inches across at the reference gauge. Measure it now, because the hat brim and beard backing need to fit the same face.

If the circle cups noticeably, first check that you made all six increases in every increase round. If the count is correct, try a slightly larger hook or a looser tension. If the circle ripples, check for accidental extra increases before changing your hook size. Keep the final round at 60 stitches.

Embroider Santa's Closed Eyes

Find the center of the peach circle and mark the top with a removable stitch marker. That top edge will eventually be hidden beneath his white hat brim.

Thread your embroidery needle with dark-brown embroidery floss or fine dark-brown yarn.

Step 1: Position the center of each eye approximately 3/4 inch to either side of the vertical centerline and about 3/8 inch above the horizontal centerline.

Step 2: Mark the beginning, middle and end of the first eye. The finished embroidered curve should be about 3/8 inch wide.

Step 3: Make a short, gently arched line using two or three closely placed embroidery stitches. The middle of the arch should sit slightly higher than the ends, forming a little upside-down U.

Step 4: Repeat on the opposite side, mirroring the first arch.

Step 5: Secure the floss on the back with several small woven stitches.

The two eyes should look like happy, closed eyelids. Don't add plastic eyes, black beads or white highlights. The simple brown stitching is part of our approved Santa design.

Check the spacing before moving on. Keep enough peach fabric visible above the eyes for the white hat brim to overlap the face without covering them.

Crochet Two Rosy Cheeks

Use soft-pink yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. [6 sts]

Rnd 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12 sts]

Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving an 8-inch sewing tail.

Make a second cheek exactly the same way.

Flatten each little circle with your fingers. Don't stuff them.

Position the cheeks just below and slightly outside the embroidered eyes. The centers should be approximately 1 to 1 1/4 inches to either side of the face center, depending on your actual gauge.

Using their sewing tails, stitch around the outer edges of both cheeks, securing each of the 12 edge stitches to the peach face. Keep the two cheeks at the same height.

You'll want them to peek out above the mustache when Santa is assembled. If they sit too low, they'll disappear behind all that white yarn.

Crochet the Small Raised Nose

Use the peach yarn and work in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. [6 sts]

Rnd 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12 sts]

Rnd 3: Sc in each stitch around. [12 sts]

Rnd 4: Sc2tog 6 times. [6 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch sewing tail. Tuck a few tiny pieces of matching peach yarn inside if the nose needs more fullness.

Thread the sewing tail through the front loops of the final six stitches and pull the opening closed. Secure the tail, keeping enough length to sew the nose to the face.

The finished nose should be a small, softly rounded button shape, approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch across. Its exact size will depend on your yarn and tension.

Don't attach the nose yet. Set it aside until the mustache is sewn in place. That way the nose can sit neatly above the two white mustache halves, just as it does in the finished example.

You also don't need to embroider a separate smile or mouth. The two curved mustache halves and happy closed eyes give Santa his expression without adding extra facial details that aren't in the approved design.

How to Crochet Santa's Curled Handlebar Mustache

Now for one of my favorite details on this little Santa. Instead of a short, ordinary mustache, we're making two thick white sections that sweep outward and finish in big, playful curls.

Each half starts wider near the nose and gradually becomes narrower toward the cheek. A separately crocheted spiral is attached at the narrow outer tip and sewn into an upward curl.

Make two matching mustache halves using ivory yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Mustache Half: Make Two

Foundation: Ch 14.

Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, dc in each of the next 3 chains, hdc in each of the next 4 chains, sc in each of the next 4 chains, then sl st in each of the last 2 chains. [13 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sl st in each of the first 2 stitches, sc in each of the next 4 stitches, hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, then dc in each of the last 3 stitches. [13 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail at the wide end.

The double crochet end is the thick inner section that will sit beneath Santa's nose. The slip stitch end is the narrow outer tip where we'll attach the curl.

Make the second half using exactly the same two rows. You'll turn one finished piece over when arranging them so that the narrow ends point in opposite directions and both pieces curve away from the center of the face.

Make the Curled Tip on Each Mustache Half

Place the first mustache half on your work surface and locate its narrow outer end.

Step 1: Join ivory yarn with a slip stitch into the outermost tip stitch.

Step 2: Ch 8.

Step 3: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 3 sc into each of the 7 chains. [21 sc]

Step 4: Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail.

The extra stitches worked into the foundation chain will make the short extension curl naturally.

Step 5: Use your fingers to shape this extension into a little open spiral. Turn it upward and outward, keeping the center of the curl visible.

Step 6: Use the sewing tail to catch the back of the curl at two or three points and secure it to the narrow outer portion of the mustache. Don't sew through the entire front surface or flatten the raised stitches.

Repeat Steps 1 through 6 on the second mustache half.

Shape checkpoint: When you lay the two mustache halves with their wide ends together, the narrow ends should point outward and the curls should turn upward in opposite directions.

You're aiming for an exaggerated handlebar shape. The thick inner sections will meet beneath the nose, while the outer spirals reach toward the sides of Santa's face.

Don't permanently sew the mustache onto the peach face yet. We'll attach it after the beard rosettes are arranged so that the mustache sits on top of the upper beard curls.

If your spiral extensions curl too tightly, gently open them with your fingers and use the sewing tails to hold the more open shape. The exact curve is controlled by the final positioning and stitches, not just by the foundation chain.

I'd check both halves together before proceeding. They don't have to be identical down to the last millimeter, but one shouldn't be noticeably longer or curl in the opposite direction.

Crochet the Five Spiral Beard Curls

This is the detail that gives our Santa his wonderfully curly beard. We're going to make five separate round rosettes, each with a raised white spiral, and arrange them in two overlapping rows.

There will be three rosettes across the upper row and two centered beneath them. I wouldn't replace these with a single fluffy beard piece. The five individual curls are an important part of this particular Santa's appearance.

Make the Tapered White Beard Foundation

Use ivory yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. The foundation is worked back and forth in rows. Keep the turning chains loose enough that the edges don't pull inward.

Foundation: Ch 17.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each remaining chain. [16 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 2 sc in the first stitch, sc in the next 14 stitches, then work 2 sc in the last stitch. [18 sts]

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [18 sts]

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [18 sts]

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 14 stitches, sc2tog. [16 sts]

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [16 sts]

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 12 stitches, sc2tog. [14 sts]

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [14 sts]

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 10 stitches, sc2tog. [12 sts]

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tog. [10 sts]

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 6 stitches, sc2tog. [8 sts]

Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [8 sts]

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog. [6 sts]

Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [6 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a 14-inch sewing tail.

The foundation should have a broad upper section and a gently tapered lower edge. The widest part is 18 stitches across, and the bottom narrows to 6 stitches.

At the reference gauge, expect the foundation to measure approximately 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 inches across its widest section and about 2 1/2 inches from top to bottom.

Arrange the five rosettes in their three-above-two formation. Allow the upper three rosettes to cover the full width of the backing, with the lower pair overlapping the narrow bottom. Keep their spiral centers visible.

Set the foundation aside with its wider end at the top. We'll attach the rosettes to its front after making all five.

Crochet Five Round Rosette Foundations

Each of Santa's beard curls begins with a small flat circle.

Use ivory yarn and work in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. [6 sts]

Rnd 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12 sts]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) 6 times. [18 sts]

Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a 10-inch sewing tail.

Make five identical circles.

The 18-stitch edge of each circle gives a calculated diameter of about 1 1/8 inches at the reference stitch gauge, before adding the raised spiral. The finished rosette will be a little fuller.

Crochet the Raised Spiral for Each Rosette

Each flat circle gets its own crocheted spiral strip. This is what gives the beard the raised, whorled appearance seen in the finished image.

Use the same ivory yarn.

Foundation: Ch 15.

Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 2 sc into each of the 14 chains. [28 sc]

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail.

The strip will curl and ruffle because you've worked twice as many stitches as the number of foundation chains.

Make five identical spiral strips.

Attach Each Spiral to Its Round Foundation

Step 1: Place one of the 18-stitch circles right side up on your work surface.

Step 2: Take one of the completed 28-stitch spiral strips. Place the starting end of the strip at the center of the circle.

Step 3: Wind the entire strip around that center point, following its natural curl until the finishing end reaches the outside of the circle. Arrange the spiral so it fills most of the circle without extending excessively beyond its edge.

Step 4: Temporarily secure the arranged spiral with two or three rustproof pins. Keep the raised stitches facing outward so the spiral remains visible.

Step 5: Thread the 12-inch sewing tail at the finishing end of the spiral into your yarn needle. Starting at the outside of the rosette, sew the strip to its circular foundation, working inward toward the center.

Pass the needle through the circular foundation and catch the underside of the raised spiral stitches approximately every four or five stitches along the strip. Keep the attachment stitches concealed beneath the spiral rather than crossing its visible front.

Step 6: Continue securing the spiral toward the center. When you reach the starting end of the strip, make two small anchoring stitches to hold that inner end firmly against the circle. Secure the sewing tail and weave it into the wrong side of the foundation.

Remove the temporary pins. Turn the rosette over and check that the spiral is firmly attached, then turn it right side up again. The front should show one continuous raised spiral with a visible center and rounded outer edge.

Repeat for the remaining four circles and spiral strips.

You'll now have exactly five separate crocheted beard rosettes.

If one rosette is noticeably larger, compare its foundation diameter and the way the spiral was wound. Try repositioning the spiral before changing any stitch counts.

Arrange the Three-Above-Two Beard

Lay the tapered beard foundation on your work surface with the wide end at the top.

Upper row: Place three rosettes across the upper half of the foundation. Keep the middle rosette centered, with one on either side. Let their edges touch or overlap slightly.

Lower row: Place the remaining two rosettes below the upper row. Center them beneath the gaps between the three upper rosettes.

Let the lower pair extend a little beyond the tapered bottom of the foundation. This gives the beard its rounded, scalloped lower edge rather than a pointed chin.

Check the entire arrangement before sewing. You should see five individual spiral centers, not just a mass of white stitches.

Step 1: Pin the three upper rosettes to the foundation.

Step 2: Sew each upper rosette in place using its original foundation-circle sewing tail. Catch the backs and outer edges of the circles without sewing through the raised spiral faces.

Step 3: Arrange the two lower rosettes so that each overlaps the underside of the upper row slightly.

Step 4: Sew the lower two rosettes to the beard foundation and catch the overlapping edges of the neighboring rosettes.

Step 5: Turn the beard over and weave in the remaining loose ends. Keep the long sewing tail from the tapered foundation available for attaching the complete beard to Santa's face.

The foundation should be concealed behind the five rosettes when viewed from the front. If a narrow strip of the backing shows between the curls, move the rosettes slightly closer together before securing the last stitches.

Beard checkpoint: Count the visible spiral centers. There must be three above and two below, for five in total. The bottom should look softly scalloped, with the lower two curls forming the rounded ends of the beard.

That's the beard finished. It already has a good deal of pizzazz, and it will really pop once we bring it all together when the hat and holly are ready.

Crochet the Red Santa Hat and White Brim

Santa's hat has a soft, folded shape with a long tip that curves down toward his left side. It isn't a separate pointed triangle with a pompom stuck on the end. We're going to crochet the cap in one continuous flat piece, narrowing the rows as we work toward the tip.

Once it's finished, we'll fold the narrow extension over and stitch it in place. That will give the hat the slouchy, curved look in the example image without adding wire or stuffing.

Crochet the Main Red Hat

Use cranberry-red worsted yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 24.

Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, hdc in each chain across. [23 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 19 stitches, hdc2tog. [21 sts]

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 17 stitches, hdc2tog. [19 sts]

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 15 stitches, hdc2tog. [17 sts]

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 13 stitches, hdc2tog. [15 sts]

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 11 stitches, hdc2tog. [13 sts]

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 9 stitches, hdc2tog. [11 sts]

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 7 stitches, hdc2tog. [9 sts]

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 5 stitches, hdc2tog. [7 sts]

Don't fasten off. You'll continue directly into the long folded extension.

The main hat should now be wider at the bottom and narrower toward the top, with seven stitches remaining across the final row.

Crochet the Long Curved Hat Extension

Continue with the same red yarn and the same hook.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [7 sts]

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 5 stitches. [6 sts]

Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [6 sts]

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches. [5 sts]

Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [5 sts]

Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 3 stitches. [4 sts]

Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [4 sts]

Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. [3 sts]

Row 19: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next stitch. [2 sts]

Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog. [1 st]

Fasten off, leaving a 16-inch sewing tail.

You should have a wide main hat with a long extension that gradually narrows to a single stitch at its tip.

Shape the Folded Santa Hat

Lay the hat flat with the foundation-chain edge at the bottom and the narrow extension pointing upward.

Step 1: Gently bend the extension toward Santa's left, which will be your left when looking at the finished face.

Step 2: Curve the extension downward, allowing it to lie across the upper-left portion of the red hat.

Step 3: Pin the tip near the lower-left edge of the main hat, close to Rows 2 and 3. The tip should hang free enough to hold the optional bell.

Step 4: Adjust the fold until the extension makes a smooth arch instead of a sharp corner.

Step 5: Before permanently attaching the folded extension, shape it into a softly rounded, raised curl. Working from the wrong side, gently turn the two long side edges of Rows 10 through 18 inward toward each other. Roll the fabric just enough to give the extension a rounded appearance from the front, rather than leaving it as a flat strip.

Thread a separate 18-inch length of cranberry-red yarn onto your yarn needle. Make a few small stitches along the wrong side to hold the turned-under edges in their rounded position. Do not pull the stitches tightly together or flatten the fabric. Leave Rows 19 and 20 free to form the narrow end where the optional bell will be attached.

Step 6: Curve the shaped extension toward Santa's left and downward over the main hat, following the position established with the pins. Use the original sewing tail to secure the underside of the rounded extension to the upper-left red hat at two or three attachment points. Keep the curved upper surface raised and visible from the front, and leave the narrow tip accessible for attaching the optional bell.

Step 7: Secure the stitches without pulling the hat into a puckered shape.

Keep the pointed end available for attaching the optional ornament bell. If you're making the applique, the tip simply stays curled without any hardware.

Hat checkpoint: The finished cap should have a broad red lower section, a softly curved upper section and a narrow tip hanging down on the left. The right side should remain taller and more open than the folded left side.

That little fold gives Santa his character. You don't have to pull it down perfectly straight. A gentle curve looks much better here.

Crochet the Thick Ivory Hat Brim

Use ivory yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 24.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each remaining chain. [23 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Working in the back loop only, hdc in each stitch across. [23 sts]

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Working in the back loop only, sc in each stitch across. [23 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a 14-inch sewing tail.

The brim should be a short, textured white band. The back-loop rows create ridges that give it a thicker appearance without needing a separate stuffed tube.

Brim checkpoint: Expect a length of approximately 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 inches at the reference gauge. The brim should be roughly the same width as the lower red hat, with enough flexibility to curve slightly around the upper face.

Don't add extra white rows just to make the brim fluffier. Three textured rows are enough for the intended design, and a taller brim could cover Santa's embroidered eyes.

Attach the Brim to the Red Hat

Step 1: Place the red cap right side up, with its broad foundation edge at the bottom.

Step 2: Lay the white brim horizontally across the lower edge of the red cap.

Step 3: Center the brim so its ends extend approximately the same distance beyond the sides of the red hat.

Step 4: Overlap the lower red edge by approximately 1/4 inch.

Step 5: Pin the brim in place, allowing the white strip to follow a very gentle curve rather than pulling it tight and straight.

Step 6: Use the ivory sewing tail to stitch the upper edge of the brim to the red hat. Work from the back as much as possible so the seam doesn't show across the front.

Leave the lower edge of the brim free for now. We'll secure it to the peach face during assembly.

Set the hat aside. The holly will be attached after the face and brim are positioned together.

Crochet the Holly Leaves and Berries

We're keeping the holly small because the curled beard and mustache are already doing plenty of decorating. Two little green leaves and three red berries are enough to give Santa's hat a Christmas touch without crowding his face.

The holly goes on the right side of the hat brim, just above the white band.

Crochet Two Pointed Holly Leaves

Use holly-green worsted yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 10.

First side: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, sc in the first chain, hdc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, hdc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, hdc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, then sc in the next chain. [8 foundation stitches worked]

Rounded base: Work 3 sc into the final chain. [3 additional sts]

Second side: Working back along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, hdc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, hdc in the next chain, dc in the next chain, make a picot, hdc in the next chain, then sc in the remaining chain. [8 additional foundation stitches worked]

Slip stitch into the first sc to close the leaf outline. [19 foundation-edge stitches, plus 6 picots]

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch sewing tail.

The six picots make three small points along each side of the leaf. Gently flatten the leaf with your fingers, keeping its pointed edges visible.

Make a second leaf exactly the same way.

Optional vein detail: If you'd like a slightly more textured leaf, use the green yarn tail to make two or three small surface stitches along the center foundation chain. Keep the stitching subtle so it doesn't pull the leaf out of shape.

Set both leaves aside.

Crochet Three Small Red Holly Berries

Use cranberry-red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. [6 sts]

Rnd 2: Sc in each stitch around. [6 sts]

Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch sewing tail.

Thread the tail through the front loops of the six remaining stitches and draw the opening closed. The little piece will form a compact berry shape.

Don't add plastic beads or stuffing. If you need to round out the berry slightly, tuck a tiny bit of its own yarn tail inside before tightening the opening.

Make three berries in total.

Arrange the Holly Decoration

Place the two leaves on the upper-right side of Santa's red hat, close to the white brim.

Angle the first leaf upward and slightly toward the center of the hat. Point the second leaf outward toward the right.

Let their lower ends overlap, creating a small place for the berries to sit.

Arrange the three red berries over that overlap, with two above and one slightly below.

Pin everything lightly. You'll sew the leaves and berries onto the assembled hat after checking that none of the decoration covers an embroidered eye.

Holly checkpoint: You should have two green leaves with pointed edges and exactly three red crocheted berries. They belong on the right side of the hat, not scattered across the white brim or beard.

Assemble the Crochet Santa Face

Now we get to put Santa together. Before sewing everything permanently, arrange the pieces on a flat surface and compare them with the finished example image at the top of the page.

The order matters a little here. We want the white hat brim to overlap the peach forehead, the mustache to sit above the beard, and the little nose to rest on top of the mustache without hiding its shape.

Step 1: Position the Red Hat

Lay the peach face right side up with the embroidered eyes at the top.

Position the red hat behind the upper edge of the face, with the folded tip pointing toward Santa's left.

Center the broad lower edge of the red hat behind the upper portion of the peach circle. The red hat should extend slightly beyond the face at both sides.

Overlap the two pieces by approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Pin them together.

Turn the assembly over and thread a 24-inch length of matching red yarn onto your yarn needle.

Beginning near the center of the red hat's 23-stitch foundation edge, sew the overlapping red stitches to the back of the peach face. Work outward toward one side, catching the lower red hat stitches and the peach fabric directly beneath them.

Stop when the red hat extends beyond the peach circle. Do not pull those outer red stitches inward to make them fit.

Return to the center with the sewing yarn and repeat toward the opposite side, stopping where the two pieces no longer overlap.

Secure the yarn on the wrong side and weave in the remaining end. Leave the projecting red hat edges in their natural position. They will be supported by the white brim, whose upper edge is sewn across the full width of the red hat in the next stage of construction.

Turn the assembly right side up and check that the peach face remains flat, the red hat is centered, and neither piece has been gathered or stretched.

Don't sew through the front of the folded cap extension. You want that curve to remain raised.

Step 2: Position the White Hat Brim

Turn Santa right side up again.

Lay the textured ivory brim across the join between the red hat and peach face.

Allow the lower edge of the brim to overlap the peach forehead slightly.

Check the embroidered eyes. Both must remain fully visible beneath the brim, with a small band of peach fabric showing between the white edge and the eyes.

Pin the brim in place.

Thread a fresh 24-inch length of ivory yarn onto your yarn needle. The upper edge of the white brim has already been sewn to the red hat across its full width. You will now secure only the portion of the lower edge that overlaps the peach forehead.

With Santa right side up, locate the first lower-edge brim stitch on one side that has peach fabric directly behind it. Begin sewing at that point, catching the white brim stitch and the peach fabric underneath.

Continue across the forehead, attaching each successive lower-edge stitch that overlaps the peach face. Follow the natural curve of the forehead without gathering the white band or stretching the peach circle.

Stop when you reach the opposite side of the peach face. Do not force the remaining white brim stitches onto the peach fabric.

The outer lower-edge portions of the white brim extend beyond the peach circle. Leave these portions free rather than attempting to sew them to red fabric that does not lie directly behind them. Their upper edges are already secured to the red hat by the completed brim-to-hat seam.

If either outer end needs reinforcement, make one small anchoring stitch near its upper corner, passing through the white brim and the red hat where those fabrics actually overlap. Do not pull the lower white edge upward or inward.

Secure the ivory sewing yarn and weave the remaining end into the wrong side of the work.

Check the finished brim from the front. It should remain 23 stitches wide, curve gently across the forehead, and extend naturally beyond the sides of the peach face without puckering. Both embroidered eyes must remain fully visible.

The brim should now look like a thick, continuous white band across the bottom of the red hat.

Step 3: Attach the Five-Curl Beard

Place the completed white beard, with its five rosettes already sewn to the tapered foundation, across the lower front of the peach face.

Position the upper edge of the foundation approximately 2 inches below the top of the peach face circle. Adjust slightly for your actual gauge so the upper rosettes begin below the cheeks.

The beard foundation sits on the front of the lower face, not underneath the peach circle. This keeps the upper rosettes visible and gives the mustache a raised surface to overlap.

Center the middle upper rosette directly beneath the nose position.

The two outer upper rosettes should spread toward the sides of the cheeks. The two lower rosettes should extend beneath the peach circle, creating the beard's scalloped lower outline.

Pin the beard foundation in place.

Thread a separate 24-inch length of ivory yarn onto your yarn needle. Locate Row 1 at the upper edge of the beard foundation. This row contains 16 stitches.

Center the foundation against the lower peach face, then sew all 16 stitches of its upper edge to the overlapping peach fabric, working eight stitches to either side of the center. Catch the back of the white foundation and the peach stitches beneath it without sewing through the raised rosettes.

Keep the attachment flat and centered. The beard should extend below the peach circle without pulling the face inward or hiding any of the five spiral centers.

Check the sides before adding more stitches. Where the white foundation still lies against the peach face, make three or four small attachment stitches along each overlapping side. Stop wherever the beard extends beyond the peach circle. Don't pull the larger white foundation inward to make it fit.

The outer beard curls and the two lower rosettes can extend beyond the peach face. Keep them attached to their white foundation and secure neighboring rosettes together where they overlap. Their rounded lower edges should remain free and visible.

Secure the separate sewing strand on the back. Weave the original 14-inch tail from Row 14 into the white foundation, using it for any additional concealed reinforcement between the lower rosettes if needed.

Turn Santa over and check the attachment. The peach face should stay flat, with the beard hanging securely below it. Turn Santa right side up again and make sure all five raised spiral centers are visible.

Step 4: Attach the Curled Mustache

Place the two mustache halves above the beard.

Bring the wide inner ends together beneath the nose position. Let them overlap slightly at the center.

Angle the thick sections outward over the upper beard curls.

Arrange the narrow ends so the separate spiral tips curve upward beside the cheeks. Keep the open centers of both curls visible.

Check that the mustache is balanced from left to right. Its widest spread should extend a little beyond the peach face.

Pin the two pieces in place.

Using their sewing tails, attach the wide inner sections to the face and upper beard foundation. Make small stitches along the backs of the thick sections, catching the underlying crochet fabric.

Continue securing each half toward the outer end, but leave the raised top stitches and the open spiral loops free.

Use one or two small stitches behind each curled tip to hold it in its upward-facing position. The curls should stay open rather than collapsing against the cheeks.

Look at Santa from the front before weaving in the remaining tails. Both curls should turn upward, and neither should cover an embroidered eye.

Step 5: Attach the Peach Nose

Retrieve the small crocheted peach nose.

Position it at the center of the face, just above the meeting point of the two white mustache halves.

Let the lower portion of the nose rest slightly over the white yarn, concealing the join between the mustache pieces.

Using the nose's sewing tail, stitch around its lower edge into the peach face. Catch the underlying fabric rather than pulling the stitches through the raised front of the nose.

Secure the nose firmly, leaving its rounded surface visible.

Check the expression. You should see two closed brown eyes, two rosy cheeks, a small peach nose and the two generous white mustache curls.

Step 6: Attach the Holly Decoration

Place the two green holly leaves on the right side of the red hat, near the white brim.

Arrange them so one points upward and the other points outward toward the right.

Using the green sewing tails, stitch along the central portions of the leaves. Catch the red hat stitches beneath them, leaving the pointed leaf edges slightly raised.

Position the three red berries over the overlapping lower ends of the leaves.

Sew the berries individually to the hat, passing the needle through each berry and the red hat fabric several times. Anchor each one firmly before weaving in its tail.

Keep the berries grouped closely together. Two should sit a little higher, with the third just below them.

Step 7: Check the Back and Finish the Assembly

Turn the Santa face over.

Check the seams along the red hat, white brim, beard backing and mustache pieces.

Remove every positioning pin and removable stitch marker. Check the front, back, folded hat tip and spaces between the beard rosettes to make sure nothing temporary remains in the finished Santa.

Weave in any loose yarn tails securely, passing them back and forth through several stitches on the wrong side. Trim the ends only after they're firmly secured.

Gently smooth the backing with your fingers. The finished piece should have a reasonably flat back and a raised, textured front.

Final appearance check:

• The red hat folds toward Santa's left.
• The white brim crosses the forehead without covering the eyes.
• Both eyes are embroidered, with no plastic parts.
• Two rosy cheeks remain visible.
• The small peach nose sits above the joined mustache halves.
• Both thick mustache ends curl upward and outward.
• Five separate spiral beard curls are visible, three above two.
• The holly decoration contains two green leaves and three red berries.

If everything looks right, the basic Santa face is complete. All that's left is choosing whether you want to sew him onto something or hang him on your Christmas tree.

Finish as a Santa Face Applique

If you'd rather use Santa as an applique, you can stop before adding a hanging loop or bell. His face already has a reasonably flat back, so you can sew him onto a decorative Christmas stocking, fabric gift bag, wall hanging or other holiday project.

I'd choose a fairly sturdy background fabric for this particular design. The raised beard and thick mustache make him more dimensional than a simple flat crochet motif, so a thin, stretchy fabric may not support him as neatly.

Step 1: Place the completed Santa face on the stocking or decorative fabric. Arrange him with the curled hat tip pointing toward the left and the five beard spirals hanging freely beneath the face.

Step 2: Pin the piece in place through the flat backing areas. Avoid pushing pins through the raised spiral centers.

Step 3: Thread a yarn needle with a matching length of ivory or red yarn, depending on which part of the applique you're attaching.

Step 4: Beginning along the upper hat edge, sew through the underside of the crochet piece and the background fabric. Work small, evenly spaced stitches around the supported perimeter.

Step 5: Continue securing the flat beard foundation and lower face. Catch the backing beneath the rosettes, but don't pull the raised curls flat against the stocking.

Step 6: Add a few extra attachment stitches beneath the outer mustache curls and folded hat tip so those pieces don't catch easily on nearby fabric.

Step 7: Bring the sewing yarn to the back of the stocking or fabric, fasten it securely and weave the end through several stitches. Remove every positioning pin used to hold the applique in place. Check beneath the folded hat tip, behind the mustache curls and around the beard backing to make sure no pins remain. If a pin has been caught beneath a sewing stitch, carefully release that stitch, remove the pin and secure the applique again.

Give Santa one last look from the front. The applique should lie securely against its background, with the face and beard still showing their original raised texture.

Applique finishing note: Leave off the gold bell, hanging loop and any other hard accessories. This dimensional decoration is intended for holiday display pieces, not baby clothing, infant bedding or anything a young child may mouth or tug.

That's all there is to the applique version. You don't need to make another Santa or change the construction to use him this way.

Finish as a Hanging Christmas Ornament

If you're making a Christmas ornament instead, we'll give Santa a red yarn hanging loop and, if you like, a little gold bell at the curled tip of his hat.

It's the same Santa face you just made. There's no need to crochet a second body or change the beard. We're simply adding the two finishing details that let him hang on a Christmas tree.

Crochet the Red Hanging Loop

Use cranberry-red worsted yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 22.

Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, sl st in each chain across. [21 sl sts]

Fasten off, leaving an approximately 8-inch sewing tail at each end of the finished cord. If one end has a short starting tail, attach a separate length of matching yarn securely for sewing.

Fold the cord in half to form a loop. The two ends should meet at the bottom, with the rounded top forming the hanger.

At the reference gauge, expect a hanging loop approximately 1 3/4 to 2 inches high after folding. Adjust its final height by overlapping the ends slightly before sewing.

Attach the Hanging Loop

Step 1: Turn Santa over so the wrong side of the red hat faces you.

Step 2: Position the two ends of the folded hanging loop near the upper center of the main red cap, around Rows 8 and 9, where the tapered hat extension begins.

Step 3: Let the loop rise above the folded cap. Keep the long slouching hat tip free to curl toward Santa's left.

Step 4: Using the sewing tails, stitch both ends of the loop securely to the back of the red hat. Pass the yarn through several neighboring stitches and repeat the attachment stitches to reinforce them.

Step 5: Secure the tails on the wrong side and weave them into the red crochet fabric.

Lift Santa gently by the loop and check the way he hangs. His face should remain upright, with the beard centered beneath it.

If he tilts noticeably, move the loop slightly to the left or right before making the final securing stitches. The correct position depends on the weight and placement of the raised beard and folded hat.

Add the Optional Gold Jingle Bell

The small gold bell goes at the very tip of the folded red hat, just as it appears in the finished example image.

If you'd rather make an all-yarn ornament, leave the bell off. The rest of the Santa design stays the same.

Step 1: Thread a yarn needle with a doubled length of cranberry-red yarn.

Step 2: Pass the needle through the attachment loop or shank at the top of the bell.

Step 3: Position the bell beneath the narrow end of the folded hat.

Step 4: Pass the doubled sewing yarn through the bell's attachment loop, then through the red crochet fabric at the end of the hat. Catch at least two neighboring stitches across Rows 18 and 19, rather than attaching the bell only to the single stitch in Row 20. Repeat the attachment three or four times, passing through the bell's loop and the supporting red stitches. Keep the bell close to the narrow hat tip without pulling the stitches out of shape.

Step 5: Tie and weave the sewing yarn securely into the wrong side of the hat.

Check the attachment carefully before hanging the ornament. Don't rely on a single loose stitch to hold the bell.

The bell is for decorative ornaments displayed out of children's reach. It should never be added to the applique version intended for fabric projects, and a bell-equipped ornament isn't suitable for baby play.

Final Ornament Check

Hang Santa where you can see him from the front.

His embroidered eyes should be visible beneath the white hat brim. The two mustache ends should curve upward, with all five individual spiral beard curls hanging beneath them.

The holly should remain on the right side of the hat, and the long folded red tip should curve toward the left. If you've included the bell, it should hang from that tip without pulling the whole hat out of shape.

Gently adjust the beard rosettes with your fingers so the three upper curls and two lower curls keep their rounded arrangement.

Check the seams and hanging loop occasionally when using the ornament for holiday display. Keep the finished decoration and its small accessories out of babies' and young children's reach.

If you enjoy making little Christmas keepsakes, you might also like my free crochet snowman ornament pattern. It's another small holiday project with embroidered facial details, but a completely different character and construction.

And there you have him. One curly-bearded Santa, two ways to use him. Whether you sew him onto a Christmas stocking or hang him on your tree, those five little beard spirals and big sweeping mustache give him a personality all his own.