Free Crochet Reindeer Baby Hat Pattern for Christmas

By Jan Bay

This free crochet reindeer baby hat pattern gives you a sweet little Christmas beanie with tall branched antlers, cream-lined ears, a bright red nose and an embroidered smile. The hat is made with natural chestnut-brown yarn and has a deep ribbed brim. I'll show you how to make it in four sizes, from 0–3 months through 12–24 months. The hat isn't complicated and I will walk you through getting the antlers and face in just the right place. Those little details are what give the reindeer its personality.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Project Details

Before you pick up your hook, here's how this little reindeer hat goes together. You'll crochet the brown beanie first, add the ribbed brim, and then make the antlers, ears and face separately. I prefer making the little pieces before sewing anything onto the hat. That way, you can arrange everything, check the expression and make adjustments while the pieces are still loose.

The antlers are the feature that gives this hat its Christmas look. Each one has a tall center section with two smaller branches. The ears sit just outside the antlers, and the cream muzzle gives the bright red nose a place to stand out. The eyes, eyelashes and little cheek stitches finish the face without any plastic pieces.

• Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate
• Yarn weight: Medium #4 worsted-weight yarn
• Main hook: 5.0 mm (H/8)
• Detail hook: 4.0 mm (G/6)
• Construction: Joined rounds for the hat, small crocheted pieces for the face and antlers
• Sizes: 0–3, 3–6, 6–12 and 12–24 months
• Special techniques: Magic ring, increases, invisible decreases, front-post and back-post double crochet, embroidery and sewing pieces together

Pieces to crochet: You'll make 18 pieces in all: 1 hat, 2 main antler trunks, 4 antler branches, 4 brown outer ear panels, 2 cream inner ear panels, 2 cream muzzle panels, 1 red nose and 2 oval eyes. The branches become 2 finished antlers, and the 6 ear panels become 2 finished ears. Check your pieces against this list before the final assembly.

This is a decorative baby hat with fairly tall antlers, so I'd treat it as a supervised Christmas picture accessory rather than an everyday hat. There are no dangling ties, buttons, beads or wire inside the design. Remove the hat after pictures and never use it for sleep.

You'll also find other styles in my free baby crochet hat patterns collection if you'd like a simpler hat for ordinary wear.

Baby Hat Size Chart

Choose the size by head measurement rather than age alone. Babies grow at different rates, and a hat that fits one three-month-old may be too loose or snug for another. The finished measurements below are calculated from the stitch counts and gauge used in this pattern.

The body circumferences are calculated from the final half-double crochet stitch counts at the stated gauge. The ribbed brim may measure smaller when relaxed because the post stitches draw the fabric inward. After completing the brim, measure its opening separately without stretching it, then check that it stretches comfortably to the intended head circumference. To check the hat height, lay the hat flat and measure from the center of the crown to the bottom edge, without including the antlers. The listed heights are calculated estimates rather than measurements taken from a finished sample.

The hat is designed with some negative ease, meaning the finished body is slightly smaller than the baby's head measurement. Start by comparing the head measurement with the calculated body circumference in the chart. After finishing the brim, check that its opening stretches comfortably and stays above the eyes without squeezing. Make this check before sewing on the antlers and face, while the hat is still easy to adjust. If the brim is too tight, try a larger hook for those four rounds and measure again. If the baby's measurement falls between sizes, compare the hat depth as well.

Write down the size you're making before you begin. Each size ends its crown increases at a different stitch count, and that count must stay the same through the body and brim.

Materials and Supplies

You'll need four yarn colors for the reindeer hat, plus a small amount of white for the eye highlights. I'd choose a natural chestnut brown for the main hat, something closer to a real reindeer's coat than pumpkin or burnt orange. Dark chocolate brown gives the antlers enough contrast, while the cream muzzle and ears keep the little face bright.

Yarn

• Color A, chestnut brown: Approximately 85–155 yards for the hat body, brim and outer ears, depending on size
• Color B, dark chocolate brown: Approximately 25–45 yards for the antlers, eyes and embroidered details
• Color C, warm ivory or cream: Approximately 15–30 yards for the ear centers, muzzle and cheek stitches
• Color D, cranberry red: Approximately 5–10 yards for the nose
• White: A short length for the tiny embroidered eye highlights

These yardages are planning estimates, not amounts measured from a completed sample. I'd buy a full skein of the main brown yarn and check the yardage on the label. Leftover worsted-weight yarn is fine for most of the smaller pieces.

Tools and Other Supplies

• 5.0 mm crochet hook for the main hat
• 4.0 mm crochet hook for the antlers, ears, muzzle, nose and eyes
• Small amount of polyester fiberfill for the antlers, muzzle and red nose
• Blunt yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Removable pins or locking stitch markers for positioning pieces before sewing

Choose smooth yarn so you can see the stitches while shaping the antlers and little facial pieces. I wouldn't use fuzzy or chenille yarn for this particular design. The muzzle, eyes and antler branches have details that are much easier to make and position with ordinary worsted-weight yarn.

Keep the stuffing light, especially in the muzzle. You want it raised just enough to look rounded, not puffed out like a ball. The antlers need a little more firmness, but don't pack them so tightly that the stitches spread apart.

Gauge and Stitch Abbreviations

Check your gauge before starting the full hat. The size of the beanie depends on the stitch count around the crown, and even a small change in gauge can make a noticeable difference in a baby hat.

Main Hat Gauge

Using the 5.0 mm hook and worsted-weight yarn:

• 16 half-double crochet stitches = 4 inches
• 13 half-double crochet rounds = 4 inches

Make a sample with at least 20 half-double crochet stitches and 16 rows, then measure the center without stretching it. Because the hat itself is worked in joined rounds, check the circumference again after the crown increases. Your actual round gauge matters more than a flat swatch alone.

Detail Gauge

Using the 4.0 mm hook, aim for approximately 20 single crochet stitches and 22 rounds per 4 inches. This is the expected gauge for the small character pieces. Make the stitches firm enough that the stuffing won't show between them.

The double crochet ribbed band is calculated at approximately 11 rounds per 4 inches. Four band rounds should add about 1.45 inches to the hat depth. Measure your actual band because front-post and back-post stitches can pull the fabric together.

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half-double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• FPdc: Front-post double crochet
• BPdc: Back-post double crochet
• inc: Work 2 stitches into the same stitch
• dec: Single crochet 2 stitches together, preferably using the invisible decrease
• MR: Magic ring
• st/sts: Stitch/stitches
• rnd: Round
• BLO: Back loop only

Special Stitch Instructions

Half-double crochet: Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through all three loops.

Front-post double crochet: Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back, then back to front around the post of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, and finish the double crochet normally.

Back-post double crochet: Yarn over and insert the hook from back to front, then front to back around the post of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, and finish the double crochet normally.

Invisible single crochet decrease: Insert the hook through the front loop of each of the next two stitches. Yarn over and pull through both front loops. Yarn over again and pull through the two loops remaining on the hook.

Joined rounds: At the end of each hat round, slip stitch into the first actual stitch. Chain 1 for the next half-double crochet round or chain 2 for a double crochet round. Neither starting chain counts as a stitch. Work the first stitch into the same stitch where you joined. Do not turn the work.

Continuous rounds: The small stuffed pieces are crocheted in a spiral without joining. Move a stitch marker into the first stitch of each new round so you can keep track of the shaping.

Flat oval rounds: For the brown ear panels and cream muzzle panels, work along both sides of the foundation chain, then continue directly into the next round without joining or turning. Mark the first stitch of each round. Work the finishing slip stitch only where the pattern directs. Do not count that slip stitch as an extra perimeter stitch. The cream ear inserts and oval eyes have only one round.

If you're between two hook sizes, use whichever gives you the correct gauge. Don't change the stitch counts to compensate until you've checked the measurements.

Free Crochet Reindeer Baby Hat Pattern

We'll start at the top of the head and work downward. Use chestnut-brown yarn, Color A, and your 5.0 mm hook. The crown grows in even increases before turning into the sides of the hat. Once the sides are long enough, you'll add the ribbing right onto the lower edge.

Keep a stitch marker near the beginning of each round. That's the back of the hat. It also gives you a handy reference point later when you're centering the reindeer's face.

Step 1: Crochet the Crown

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Chain 1 and work 8 hdc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (8 sts)

Round 2: Chain 1. Work 2 hdc in every stitch around. Join. (16 sts)

Round 3: Chain 1. *Hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (24 sts)

Round 4: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (32 sts)

Round 5: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (40 sts)

Round 6: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (48 sts)

Stop here and check your count. You should have 48 stitches before the next round. Don't try to correct a missing increase by adding random stitches later. Go back to the round where the count changed.

Step 2: Finish the Crown for Your Size

Size 0–3 Months

Round 7: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 11 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 4 times. Join. (52 sts)

Your crown increases are finished. Continue to the straight body rounds below.

Size 3–6 Months

Round 7: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (56 sts)

Your crown increases are finished. Continue to the straight body rounds below.

Size 6–12 Months

Round 7: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (56 sts)

Round 8: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 13 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 4 times. Join. (60 sts)

Your crown increases are finished. Continue to the straight body rounds below.

Size 12–24 Months

Round 7: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (56 sts)

Round 8: Chain 1. *Hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat 8 times. Join. (64 sts)

Your crown increases are finished. Continue to the straight body rounds below.

Step 3: Crochet the Straight Sides

Now stop increasing. At the beginning of every new round, chain 1, then work 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first hdc. The beginning chain does not count as a stitch, and you do not turn the work. Repeat this same sequence for every straight body round, keeping the stitch count unchanged.

Follow the rounds for your selected size:

• 0–3 months: Rounds 8–13, 52 hdc in each round. Complete 6 straight rounds.
• 3–6 months: Rounds 8–15, 56 hdc in each round. Complete 8 straight rounds.
• 6–12 months: Rounds 9–16, 60 hdc in each round. Complete 8 straight rounds.
• 12–24 months: Rounds 9–18, 64 hdc in each round. Complete 10 straight rounds.

The hat should now have a rounded top with fairly straight sides. It may curve inward a little because crochet fabric is flexible. That's fine. What you don't want is a flat disk with no depth or a severely puckered crown.

Step 4: Check the Hat Depth Before Adding Ribbing

Lay the hat flat without stretching it. Measure from the center of the top down to the current lower edge.

• 0–3 months: Approximately 4.0 inches
• 3–6 months: Approximately 4.6 inches
• 6–12 months: Approximately 4.9 inches
• 12–24 months: Approximately 5.5 inches

These measurements are based on the stated gauge. If the depth is short, work another even hdc round and measure again. If it's too long, remove an even round. Don't add increases to make the hat taller.

Step 5: Crochet the Deep Ribbed Brim

Stay with the 5.0 mm hook and chestnut-brown yarn. This brim is worked directly onto the hat, so there is no separate band to sew on. The alternating post stitches will give it the raised vertical ribs shown in the finished example.

Brim Round 1: Chain 2, which does not count as a stitch. Work 1 dc in each hdc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (52, 56, 60 or 64 dc)

Brim Round 2: Chain 2, which does not count as a stitch. Work 1 FPdc around the post of the first dc from Brim Round 1 (the dc you joined to), then 1 BPdc around the next dc. Continue alternating FPdc and BPdc around each remaining dc post. Join with a slip stitch to the first FPdc. Work around every one of the 52, 56, 60 or 64 dc posts once. Do not work into the joining slip stitch or chain 2. (52, 56, 60 or 64 post stitches)

Brim Round 3: Chain 2. Work FPdc around each FPdc and BPdc around each BPdc, keeping the raised ribs lined up. Join. (52, 56, 60 or 64 post stitches)

Brim Round 4: Repeat Brim Round 3. Join. (52, 56, 60 or 64 post stitches)

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end on the inside of the hat.

At the target gauge, the four brim rounds add approximately 1.45 inches. The finished hat should now be about 5.45, 6.07, 6.38 or 6.99 inches tall, depending on size.

If the brim flares outward, your post stitches may be too loose. Try a slightly smaller hook for the ribbing. If it pulls inward so much that the hat won't fit comfortably, loosen your post stitches or use the next hook size up. Keep the same number of stitches.

Don't fold the entire brim over. The finished example has a deep band that shows its vertical ribs from top to bottom.

How to Crochet the Reindeer Antlers

These are the pieces that make the hat look like a reindeer instead of an ordinary brown beanie. Each antler has a tall center trunk and two shorter branches. The longer branch points outward, while the shorter branch points inward toward the center of the hat. Together, they give the antlers the chunky, three-tipped shape shown in the finished example.

Use dark chocolate-brown yarn, Color B, and the 4.0 mm hook. Work the pieces in continuous rounds. You'll make two center trunks, two longer outer branches and two shorter inner branches.

Step 1: Make the Main Antler Trunks (Make 2)

Begin at the rounded top of each antler and crochet downward toward the open base.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Rounds 3–16: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sts per round)

For the smallest size, stop after Round 16. For larger hats, continue as follows:

• 0–3 months: Stop after Round 16.
• 3–6 months: Work one additional even round, ending at Round 17.
• 6–12 months: Work two additional even rounds, ending at Round 18.
• 12–24 months: Work three additional even rounds, ending at Round 19.

Each additional round contains 12 sc. Do not increase or decrease.

Lightly stuff the trunk as you work, beginning after approximately Round 9. Add small amounts of fiberfill until the trunk holds its cylindrical shape. Keep the lower opening flexible and leave the final round of 12 stitches open. Don't flatten the base or sew it closed. During assembly, you'll spread this circular opening against the crown and sew around all 12 stitches, then add reinforcing stitches to help the antler stand upright.

Fasten off, leaving a 16-inch yarn tail for sewing. Leave the final 12-stitch opening unclosed.

Checkpoint: Both trunks should have the same height for the size you're making. At the stated detail gauge, the trunks are expected to measure approximately 2.9–3.5 inches long. Their diameter should be around three-quarters of an inch. These are calculated estimates.

Step 2: Make the Longer Outer Branches (Make 2)

These branches point toward the outside edges of the hat. Make one for each antler.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 5 sc into the ring. (5 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch. (10 sts)

Rounds 3–8: Sc in each stitch around. (10 sts per round)

Lightly stuff the branch. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch yarn tail. Do not close the 10-stitch opening.

Each longer branch should be approximately 1.4–1.5 inches long at the target gauge.

Step 3: Make the Shorter Inner Branches (Make 2)

These branches sit slightly higher on the main antler trunks, pointing inward toward the center of the hat.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 5 sc into the ring. (5 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch. (10 sts)

Rounds 3–6: Sc in each stitch around. (10 sts per round)

Add a small pinch of fiberfill. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch yarn tail. Leave the 10-stitch opening unclosed.

Each shorter branch should measure approximately 1.1 inches long at the target gauge.

Step 4: Join the Branches to the Antler Trunks

Lay the two main trunks side by side with their rounded tips pointing upward. Decide which one will go on the left and which will go on the right.

On the left antler, the longer branch points left and the shorter branch points right. On the right antler, reverse the arrangement. That gives you a matching pair instead of two identical pieces pointing in the same direction.

Attach the longer outer branch: Position its open end against the outside of the main trunk, approximately across trunk Rounds 10–13. Angle the rounded tip outward and slightly upward. Sew all ten stitches around the branch opening securely to the trunk, catching the trunk fabric under every stitch.

Attach the shorter inner branch: Position its open end against the inside of the trunk, approximately across trunk Rounds 7–10. Angle its rounded tip toward the center of the hat. Sew all ten stitches around the opening to the trunk.

Use the yarn tails to make a second pass through the branch attachment seams. Pull the stitches snug enough to hide the join, but don't cinch them into narrow knots.

Checkpoint: Each completed antler should have three rounded tips: one tall center tip, one longer outer branch and one shorter inner branch. The main trunks should remain clearly visible below the two branches.

Don't add wire or pipe cleaners to hold the antlers upright. The narrow crochet tubes, firm stitches, light stuffing and later attachment to the crown are the intended construction. If the pieces are too floppy, check the stuffing and detail gauge before attaching them.

Set both finished antlers aside for assembly.

How to Crochet the Reindeer Ears

The ears are wide, slightly pointed and angled outward beside the antlers. Each one has a brown outer shape and a smaller cream center. I wouldn't make these as narrow tubes. Flat layered pieces give you the broad deer-ear shape shown in the example.

You'll crochet four brown outer panels and two cream inner panels. Two brown panels are joined to make each ear, with the cream insert sewn onto the front.

Use your 4.0 mm hook throughout.

Step 1: Brown Outer Ear Panels (Make 4)

With Color A, chestnut brown, chain 10.

Round 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in the first chain, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chains, 1 dc in each of the next 4 chains, and 1 hdc in the next chain. Work 3 sc in the last chain.

Rotate the foundation chain so you can work into its unused underside loops. Work 1 hdc in the next chain, 1 dc in each of the next 4 chains, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chains, and 2 sc in the final chain. (20 sts total)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches, and 2 sc in each of the final 2 stitches. (26 sts)

Slip stitch into the first stitch. Fasten off. Make four identical panels.

Each outer panel should look like a plump oval leaf. The end where you worked 3 sc into the last foundation chain is the outer ear tip. The opposite end, where you made the first sc of Round 1, is the base that will attach to the hat. Mark the base with a removable stitch marker so all four panels are oriented the same way. The expected panel length is approximately 2–2.5 inches, depending on your yarn and tension.

Step 2: Cream Inner Ear Panels (Make 2)

With Color C, warm ivory or cream, chain 7.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc in the next chain, 1 dc in each of the next 2 chains, and 1 hdc in the next chain. Work 3 sc in the last chain.

Rotate the chain and work into its unused underside loops: 1 hdc in the next chain, 1 dc in each of the next 2 chains, 1 hdc in the next chain, and 2 sc in the final chain. (14 sts)

Slip stitch into the first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The cream inserts should be noticeably smaller than the brown outer ears. You want a visible brown border around each one.

Step 3: Assemble Each Ear

Lay one brown outer panel flat with its right side facing up. Center one cream insert on it, keeping a border of brown visible all the way around. Sew the cream insert in place with small stitches along its edge.

Place a second brown outer panel underneath the first, wrong sides together. Line up all 26 perimeter stitches.

Attach chestnut-brown yarn at the narrow base of the ear. Work 1 sc through both layers of each of the 26 corresponding stitches around the outside edge. Join with a slip stitch. (26 joining sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail at the base for sewing the ear onto the hat.

Repeat for the second ear.

Find the outer tip of the ear, at the end where you worked 3 sc into the last foundation chain. With brown yarn and a yarn needle, take one small stitch through both brown layers at that tip and pull gently to form a defined point. Secure the stitch between the layers. Keep the cream center flat and the rest of the ear broad and rounded. The opposite end is the base that will be sewn to the hat.

Checkpoint: You should have two double-thickness brown ears with cream centers, clean brown edges and no exposed yarn ends. The cream inserts belong on the front faces of both ears.

Don't stuff the ears. Their double-layer construction is meant to give them body without turning them into thick cushions.

Crochet Muzzle and Red Nose

The cream muzzle is wider than it is tall, with a gently rounded shape. It sits just above the ribbed brim and gives the reindeer that cheerful little face. We'll make it from two matching oval pieces with a small amount of stuffing between them.

The red nose is crocheted separately as a rounded dome. It sits near the top center of the muzzle, just above the embroidered smile.

Step 1: Crochet the Cream Muzzle Front

With Color C and your 4.0 mm hook, chain 10.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 8 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain.

Rotate the foundation chain and work along its underside. Work 1 sc in each of the next 7 chains, then 2 sc in the final chain. (20 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches, and 2 sc in each of the last 2 stitches. (26 sts)

Round 3: Work 2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches. *Sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the following stitch.* Repeat 3 times. Sc in each of the next 7 stitches. *Sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the following stitch.* Repeat 2 times. (32 sts)

Round 4: Sc in every stitch around. (32 sts)

Slip stitch to the first stitch and fasten off.

Lay the oval flat and gently shape the ends. The muzzle should be wider than it is tall, with both ends rounded rather than pointed.

Step 2: Make the Muzzle Back

Repeat Rounds 1–4 exactly as written above. You should have a second 32-stitch oval.

Set the backing piece aside while you embroider the mouth on the front.

Step 3: Embroider the Little Smile

Thread a yarn needle with dark chocolate-brown yarn. On the front oval, mark the center with a removable stitch marker.

Bring the needle up about one-third of the way down from the top edge, slightly left of center. Make a shallow curved smile, approximately 3/4 inch wide, dipping toward the lower center of the muzzle. Secure the end of the curve at the center.

Make a matching curved smile on the right side. Both curves should meet at the center beneath the future nose position, forming two little U-shaped sections.

Use several short embroidery stitches to shape each curve instead of one loose strand stretched across the surface. Keep the stitches close to the crochet fabric.

Secure the yarn on the wrong side of the muzzle front. The red nose will cover the top of the joined smile later.

Step 4: Join and Lightly Stuff the Muzzle

Place the muzzle front and back together with the wrong sides facing. Match their 32 perimeter stitches.

With cream yarn and the 4.0 mm hook, join at one lower side of the oval. Work 1 sc through both layers of each corresponding stitch for the first 26 stitches. (26 joining sc)

Before closing the remaining opening, add a small amount of polyester fiberfill. Spread it into a thin, even layer so the muzzle lifts gently from the hat without forming a large bulge.

Work 1 sc through both layers of each of the final 6 stitches. (32 joining sc total)

Join with a slip stitch and fasten off, leaving a 24-inch tail for sewing the muzzle to the hat. This gives you enough yarn to sew around the full perimeter, reinforce the lower edge and rounded ends, and weave in the remaining tail securely.

Checkpoint: The muzzle should form one neat, raised oval with a clearly visible double-curved smile. At the stated detail gauge, expect a width around 3 inches, with some variation from yarn and stuffing.

Step 5: Crochet the Raised Red Nose

Switch to cranberry-red yarn, Color D, and keep the 4.0 mm hook.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in every stitch. (12 sts)

Round 3: *Sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch.* Repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc in each stitch around. (18 sts)

Round 5: Sc in each stitch around. (18 sts)

Round 6: *Sc in next stitch, dec over the next 2 stitches.* Repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch yarn tail. Add a small amount of fiberfill to round out the nose. Leave the final 12-stitch opening unclosed.

The rounded beginning of the nose faces outward. The open end is the base you'll sew onto the muzzle.

Step 6: Sew the Red Nose to the Muzzle

Place the red nose near the upper center of the cream muzzle, directly above the point where the two smile curves meet. Let the lower part of the nose overlap the beginning of the embroidered mouth slightly.

Using the long red yarn tail, sew the 12-stitch opening of the nose to the cream muzzle with small, evenly spaced stitches. Go completely around the opening twice.

Hide the yarn tail inside the muzzle. Don't pull so tightly that the nose sinks flat against the cream fabric.

Checkpoint: The nose should look like a small, rounded red dome sitting on the muzzle, not a flat red circle. The two curved smile sections should remain visible below it.

Embroidered Face and Final Assembly

Now we'll give the reindeer its expression and put everything in place. Take a few minutes to arrange the pieces before you sew them down. Small changes in the eye spacing or the angle of the ears can make the whole face look different.

Start by folding the hat flat with the beginning-round seam centered at the back. The opposite side is the front. Mark the center front at the top of the ribbed brim, then follow that center line up the hat.

Step 1: Crochet the Dark Oval Eyes (Make 2)

Use dark chocolate-brown yarn and your 4.0 mm hook.

Chain 4.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sc in the first chain, 1 sc in the next chain, and 3 sc in the last chain. Rotate and work along the underside of the chain. Work 1 sc in the next chain and 2 sc in the last chain. (8 sts)

Slip stitch to the first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Repeat to make the second eye.

Gently shape each piece into a small vertical oval. The eyes should be taller than they are wide, not large round buttons.

With a short length of white yarn, embroider one tiny straight highlight near the upper inside edge of each brown eye. Pass the white yarn through the center of a stitch, keeping the highlight small. Secure both ends on the back of the eye.

Step 2: Position the Eyes

Lay the hat flat with the front facing up. Set the cream muzzle in the center, with its lower edge approximately 1/8–1/4 inch above the raised ribbing. The muzzle may cover a little of the smooth double crochet transition round.

Place the two brown eyes just above the upper outside corners of the muzzle. For a symmetrical starting position, measure outward from the marked center-front stitch:

• 0–3 months: About 5 hat stitches to each side
• 3–6 months: About 5 stitches to each side
• 6–12 months: About 6 stitches to each side
• 12–24 months: About 7 stitches to each side

These positions mark the centers of the eye appliques. Keep both eyes at the same height. Their lower edges should sit just above the cream muzzle, with a little brown hat fabric showing between the two pieces.

When you're happy with the placement, sew around the entire edge of each eye using its dark brown yarn tail. Make a second pass so the appliques lie flat and cannot lift from the hat.

Step 3: Embroider the Eyelashes

Use dark chocolate-brown yarn and a yarn needle. At the upper outside corner of the left eye, embroider two short lashes angled outward and slightly upward.

Repeat on the right eye, reversing the direction. Each lash should extend only a few stitches beyond the eye. Keep the embroidered strands close to the hat surface, not hanging in loops.

Secure the yarn tails inside the hat. The expression should look cheerful and open-eyed, like the finished example.

Step 4: Sew the Muzzle to the Hat

Check that the muzzle is still centered beneath the eyes. The red nose should line up with the center-front marker.

Use the long cream yarn tail and sew around the entire muzzle edge, catching the hat fabric under every few stitches. Work carefully through the crochet border without pulling it into a narrow shape.

Make a second pass around the lower edge and both rounded ends. The muzzle is lightly stuffed, so the stitches need to hold the raised piece firmly against the hat.

Weave the tail into the inside of the hat and secure it. Check that no cream yarn is hanging loose on the front.

Step 5: Add the Cream Cheek Details

With cream yarn, make two short diagonal embroidery stitches on the brown fabric beside the left end of the muzzle. Place the second stitch just below the first.

Repeat on the right side, matching the spacing and direction.

Each little mark should be approximately 1/4 inch long. These are small decorative accents, not whiskers extending away from the hat.

Secure the ends inside the hat. The muzzle, red nose, eyes and cheek stitches should now form one balanced face.

Step 6: Position the Antlers

Place the finished antlers on the upper crown. Their main trunks should stand nearly upright, with a slight outward angle. The longer branches point toward the outside of the hat, and the shorter branches point inward.

As a starting guide, position the center of each antler base approximately this many stitch columns to either side of the front-center line:

• 0–3 months: 7 stitches left and right
• 3–6 months: 7 stitches left and right
• 6–12 months: 8 stitches left and right
• 12–24 months: 8 stitches left and right

Follow those columns upward onto the crown and place the antler bases around the upper curved area, approximately across crown Rounds 5–7. Use the same crown height for both antlers.

Pin or temporarily mark both positions and look at the hat from the front. Adjust the bases slightly if needed to keep the antlers balanced. The branches shouldn't touch each other.

Step 7: Sew the Antlers Securely to the Crown

Thread the yarn tail from the first antler trunk onto your yarn needle. Sew the open 12-stitch base completely around its marked position on the crown. Catch the hat fabric firmly under each stitch.

Make a second round of stitches around the base, then take several additional stitches through the lower sides of the antler trunk and into nearby crown stitches. Spread these reinforcing stitches over approximately two crown rounds so the trunk has more support than a single narrow seam.

Keep all stitches on the outside crown fabric. Avoid long strands or knots that could rub against the baby's head inside the hat.

Repeat for the second antler, checking the angle before tying off the yarn.

Checkpoint: Both antlers should stand nearly upright when the hat is resting on a rounded form. If either leans, add short reinforcing stitches from the lower trunk to the crown. If the entire trunk bends over, the crochet may need a firmer gauge or less height. Don't insert wire to correct it.

Step 8: Attach the Ears

Place one ear outside each antler, slightly lower on the sides of the crown. The cream centers face forward, and the pointed ends angle outward and a little upward.

Use the following starting positions, measured around the hat from the center front:

• 0–3 months: About 13 stitches to either side
• 3–6 months: About 14 stitches to either side
• 6–12 months: About 15 stitches to either side
• 12–24 months: About 16 stitches to either side

Position the narrow bases around crown Rounds 6–8 on the smallest hat and approximately Rounds 7–9 on the larger hats. The ear tips should point outward, not straight up beside the antlers.

Using the long brown yarn tail from the ear, stitch the narrow end firmly against the hat across approximately 4–5 hat stitches. Sew through both ear layers and the crown fabric.

Make a second pass along the ear base, then add two short anchoring stitches just above the base so the ear holds its angle. Repeat for the other ear.

Look at the hat from the front again. The antlers should be taller than the ears, and the ears should extend beyond the sides of the beanie.

Step 9: Final Check and Finishing

Turn the hat inside out and inspect every attachment. Weave in all remaining yarn tails, passing each one back through several stitches in a different direction before trimming. Don't leave large knots, long loose strands or hard bumps against the inside of the hat.

Turn the hat right side out. Remove every temporary pin and stitch marker, including the center-front and ear-base markers. Check the inside and outside for anything left behind. Gently check each antler, ear, eye, nose and muzzle to make sure the seams hold and the pieces don't lift away from the hat. Check that no stuffing is escaping, no embroidery has loose loops and no yarn ends remain exposed.

Gently shape the crown and ribbed brim with your hands. If the yarn allows washing or damp blocking, follow its care instructions and let the hat dry on a rounded form that matches the intended circumference. Don't stretch the brim wider than its finished measurement.

The finished hat should have a natural chestnut-brown body, deep ribbed brim, tall chocolate-brown branched antlers, cream-lined ears, two small embroidered-highlight eyes, a cream muzzle with a double smile, a raised red nose and two little cream marks on each cheek.

That's the complete reindeer. You don't need a bow, bell, ribbon or any extra Christmas trim.

Troubleshooting and Fit Tips

If your hat doesn't look quite like the finished example, check the measurements and the way the pieces are positioned before changing the pattern. A slightly loose gauge, an overstuffed muzzle or ears sewn too high can make a surprising difference.

The Hat Is Too Wide or Too Narrow

Measure the hat circumference without stretching it. If you've followed the correct stitch count but the hat is too wide, your stitches may be larger than the target gauge.

For example, the 52-stitch hat measures 13 inches around at 16 stitches per 4 inches. If your gauge is only 15 stitches per 4 inches, the same 52 stitches will measure approximately 13.9 inches around. That's almost an inch larger.

Try a smaller hook or work a new gauge swatch before adjusting the stitch count. If the hat is too narrow, check whether you're making too many stitches per inch and need a larger hook.

The Crown Has Ridges or Looks Uneven

Make sure you're placing the increases exactly where the pattern says. You should have 8, 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 stitches at the end of the first six rounds.

A small seam line at the back is normal with joined rounds. Keep your beginning chains out of the stitch count and slip stitch into the first actual stitch, not the chain.

Gently shape the crown with your hands once the straight rounds begin. It should curve into a beanie shape instead of staying flat.

The Brim Is Too Tight

Front-post and back-post stitches can draw the lower edge inward. That's useful for a ribbed brim, but it shouldn't squeeze the baby's head.

Make sure every FPdc and BPdc is worked around the full post of the stitch below. Don't accidentally skip a stitch at the beginning or end of a round.

If the band remains too tight, try a slightly larger hook for the four brim rounds while keeping the same stitch count.

The Antlers Lean or Flop Forward

First, check the detail gauge. Loose single crochet stitches make a soft tube that may bend under its own weight. The antlers need firm, even stitches.

Next, check the stuffing. Fill the trunk evenly from the rounded tip toward the base. A large lump of stuffing near the top can make it top-heavy.

Finally, inspect the base attachment. Each antler should be sewn all the way around its 12-stitch opening, with additional reinforcing stitches into nearby crown rounds.

If it still leans, take a few more short stitches through the lower third of the trunk and into the hat. The support should come from the crochet and sewing, not wire or another rigid insert.

The Ears Curl Instead of Spreading Outward

Check that each ear has two brown outer layers. A single layer may curl more easily, especially if your tension is tight.

When joining the layers, work one joining stitch through each matching perimeter stitch without adding increases. Sew only the narrow base to the hat, leaving the rounded outer portion free to spread outward.

If an ear points straight up, reposition its base slightly lower on the side of the crown.

The Cream Muzzle Looks Too Round

The muzzle should be a broad oval. If it looks like a ball, remove some stuffing. You need only enough to lift the front layer slightly.

Check that both cream ovals have 32 stitches before they're joined. Spread the stuffing evenly toward the rounded ends instead of piling it in the middle.

When sewing the muzzle onto the hat, keep the longer axis horizontal.

The Red Nose Is Too Flat

Make sure you've completed both even 18-stitch rounds before decreasing to 12 stitches. Add a small amount of stuffing before sewing the open base to the muzzle.

Sew around the opening without pulling the dome into the cream surface. You want the red nose to remain rounded and raised.

The Face Doesn't Look Balanced

Use the center-front marker as your guide. The nose should line up with that marker, and both eyes should be the same distance from it.

The outer eyelashes need to point away from the face. The cream cheek stitches belong outside the muzzle, with two short marks on each side.

Before making permanent adjustments, turn the hat right side out, place it on a rounded form and look at it straight on. That view will tell you much more than looking down at the hat while it's lying flat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this crochet reindeer baby hat with a brown nose instead of red?

Yes. Crochet the nose exactly as written, but use dark brown yarn instead of cranberry red. Keep the same 18-stitch shaping and 12-stitch opening. The finished hat will have more of a woodland deer look, although it won't match the Christmas example image exactly.

What if my baby's head measurement falls between two sizes?

Measure the head around its widest part and compare that with the finished circumference of each hat size. Check the height too. If you're deciding between two sizes, I'd make a gauge sample and measure the actual hat after the crown increases before continuing.

Can I use chunky or plush yarn?

You can experiment with a different yarn weight, but I wouldn't substitute it directly into this pattern. Thicker yarn changes the hat circumference and makes the small eyes, muzzle and antler branches much larger. If you want the finished hat to look like the example, stay with smooth worsted-weight yarn and match the gauge.

Can the finished reindeer hat be washed?

Check the care label on your yarn first. If the yarn is washable, gentle handwashing is a practical choice for a hat with several raised and stuffed pieces. Don't twist or wring the antlers. Press out excess moisture with a towel, reshape the pieces and let the hat dry completely.

Can a baby sleep in this crochet reindeer hat?

No. This decorative hat is intended only for brief, supervised awake use, such as a Christmas picture. Remove it before naps or nighttime sleep. The American Academy of Pediatrics' safe-sleep guidance advises against hats on infants indoors except in limited medical circumstances, because of overheating concerns. Keep the baby's head and face uncovered during sleep.

Has this pattern been physically tested?

The example image shows the intended finished design rather than a photographed, test-crocheted sample. The stitch counts and measurements were calculated from the stated gauge, and the pattern hasn't yet been physically test-made or fit-tested. Check the hat measurements, antler firmness and component placement as you work. Those details still need to be verified on a completed crochet sample.

If you're making more than one handmade Christmas project, you can browse my free Christmas crochet patterns for ornaments, gifts and other festive ideas.