Free Gingerbread Crochet Granny Square Pattern

By Jan Bay

This free Gingerbread Crochet Granny Square Pattern features a cheerful gingerbread girl with a red bow, a green scarf, white icing, and little heart-shaped buttons. She's framed by an ivory granny square with evergreen edging and holly in the corners. The finished design makes a festive addition to a Christmas blanket or decorative pillow, and I'll walk you through the stitches, assembly, and finishing details.

About the finished example: The photo shows a coordinating nine-square Christmas throw with three gingerbread girls, two crossed-candy-cane squares, two Christmas gifts and two large holly squares. This page provides the complete pattern for one gingerbread girl square, including her four small holly corners. The other motifs, blanket joining and decorative outer edging are not included in these instructions.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Gingerbread Crochet Granny Square Pattern: Finished Size and Skill Level

We'll make the gingerbread girl first, then sew her onto an ivory granny square. Her head and body are crocheted separately, which helps keep her round face and little cookie-shaped legs looking like the finished example.

The example image shows nine joined Christmas squares, with gingerbread girls, crossed candy canes, holly and presents. This page gives you the complete gingerbread girl square pattern. The other motifs are coordinating design ideas, not patterns included in these instructions.

We'll use the same seven-round foundation as my Christmas granny square blanket collection. I'd make one complete square and check its measurements before making enough for a blanket.

Expected finished size: Approximately 8 by 8 inches after blocking, using the suggested yarn and hook sizes. This is a target, not a measurement taken from a finished sample.

Gingerbread girl: Aim for approximately 6 1/4 to 6 3/4 inches tall from the bow to the bottoms of her feet. Her arms should fit comfortably inside the ivory background.

Skill level: Intermediate. You'll use increasing rounds, shaped rows, separate appliqué pieces, surface embroidery and some careful sewing.

Construction: One flat granny square, a separate gingerbread figure, crocheted facial and clothing details, and four holly corner arrangements. No stuffing is needed.

Gauge for the gingerbread pieces: Aim for 20 half double crochet stitches and 17 rows over 4 inches with the smaller hook. Start with the suggested 3.75 mm hook and adjust if needed. This is a calculated engineering gauge, not a measurement taken from a finished sample.

At this gauge, the gingerbread body will be smaller and should leave more room for her round head, bow and icing inside the eight-inch square. Check your gauge before making the head and body. If your stitches are much larger, the finished gingerbread girl may cover the green border.

Square checkpoint: The seven-round background should measure approximately 8 inches across after blocking. Its size is determined separately from the gingerbread motif, since you'll use a larger hook for the granny stitches.

If your gingerbread girl is a little too large for the ivory center, change the hook size for the gingerbread pieces before making another one. Don't stretch the granny square to fit her. Leave enough ivory showing that the green border and holly corners are easy to see.

Yarn, Hook and Supplies

I'd use smooth medium-weight yarn for this pattern. You'll want to see the stitches on her face, and yarn with a lot of fuzz would hide those little details.

Yarn: Medium-weight #4 worsted yarn in the following colors:

• Warm ivory: Granny square background
• Deep evergreen: Granny square border
• Gingerbread brown: Head, body, arms and legs
• Christmas red: Hair bow and holly berries
• Leaf green: Scarf and holly leaves
• White: Icing and two heart buttons
• Pink: Two cheeks
• Black: Embroidered eyes, eyelashes and smile

For one square, allow approximately 35 to 50 yards of ivory, 10 to 15 yards of deep evergreen, 20 to 30 yards of brown, and small amounts of the remaining colors. These are planning allowances rather than measured yarn consumption. Keep extra yarn available if you're making several matching squares.

Hooks and tools:

• 5 mm (H/8) crochet hook for the granny square
• 3.75 mm (F) hook for the gingerbread figure
• 3.5 mm (E) hook for the tiny decorations, if needed
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Blocking mat and rust-proof pins, optional

Use the smaller hook for the brown pieces so the half double crochet stitches sit close together. You don't need stuffing, plastic eyes or separate buttons. Her expression is embroidered, and those little white hearts are crocheted right from yarn.

Before you begin: Make a small half double crochet gauge swatch with your brown yarn and the 3.75 mm hook. If your stitches are much wider than the suggested gauge, try the next smaller hook. The size of the gingerbread girl matters more than matching a particular hook number.

Crochet Stitches and Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The body and head are mostly half double crochet, while the background uses ordinary three-double-crochet granny groups.

• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• st or sts: Stitch or stitches
• sp: Space
• rnd: Round
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side
• inc: Increase by working two stitches into one stitch
• hdc2tog: Half double crochet two stitches together
• sc2tog: Single crochet two stitches together. Insert hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into the following stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.
• MR: Magic ring

Turning chains: Chain 1 at the beginning of a half double crochet or single crochet row unless the instructions say otherwise. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch. On granny square rounds, the beginning chain 3 counts as the first double crochet.

Half double crochet increase: Work two half double crochet stitches into the same stitch.

Half double crochet decrease: Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, insert hook into the following stitch and draw up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all five loops.

Granny group: Three double crochet stitches worked into the same chain space.

If you need a reminder of the stitch names, the Craft Yarn Council's crochet pattern guide explains the standard US abbreviations.

Count your stitches at the end of every shaping row. A missed increase might not look like much at first, but it can throw off the gingerbread girl's arms or legs by the time you reach the edging.

How to Crochet the Gingerbread Girl

We'll start at her shoulders and work down toward her feet. Her torso and legs are one piece, so there's no separate seam across the waist. The two arms and round head will be added afterward.

Part 1: Gingerbread Body and Legs

Color: Gingerbread brown

Hook: 3.75 mm

Construction: Turned rows of half double crochet, beginning at the neck. Chain 1 and turn at the beginning of each new row. The turning chain never counts as a stitch.

Foundation: Ch 11.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (10 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (10 hdc)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (10 hdc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Work 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in each of the next 8 sts, and 2 hdc in the last st. (12 hdc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (12 hdc)

Row 6: Repeat Row 5. (12 hdc)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Work 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, and 2 hdc in the last st. (14 hdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (14 hdc)

Stop and count. You should have 14 stitches across the lower body. The shoulders are narrower than the hips, giving the gingerbread girl the slightly flared shape shown in the example.

Part 2: First Gingerbread Leg

Keep the brown yarn attached after finishing Row 8. We'll work the first six stitches for one leg, leave two stitches open between the legs, and use the remaining six stitches for the other leg. Follow the chain-and-turn instruction at the beginning of Leg Row 9.

Leg Row 9: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the first 6 sts only. Leave the remaining 8 sts of Row 8 unworked. (6 hdc)

Leg Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the 6 sts. (6 hdc)

Leg Rows 11–14: Repeat Leg Row 10, working 6 hdc in every row.

Fasten off, leaving a tail to weave in after edging. The first leg has six rows and six stitches across every row.

Part 3: Second Gingerbread Leg

With the right side of the body facing you, find the six unused Row 8 stitches at the opposite outer edge. Two unused Row 8 stitches must remain between the legs.

Join brown yarn in the unused stitch nearest the two-stitch center gap. Work toward the outside edge of the body.

Leg Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in the joining st and each of the next 5 unused sts toward the outside edge. (6 hdc)

Leg Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in all 6 sts. (6 hdc)

Leg Rows 11–14: Repeat Leg Row 10, working 6 hdc in each row.

Fasten off. Both legs should now have the same number of rows, with a small open crotch between them.

Body count checkpoint: Rows 1–8 contain 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14 and 14 stitches. Each leg contains 6 stitches across 6 rows. That's 94 half double crochet stitches in the upper body and 36 in each leg, for 166 altogether.

Part 4: Outline the Body

Use the same brown yarn and the 3.75 mm hook to give the cookie a neat outside edge. Lay the piece flat with the neck at the top.

Join yarn at one upper shoulder corner. Ch 1 and work around the entire silhouette in the following order:

1. Work 10 sc across the unused foundation-chain edge at the neck.
2. Work 10 sc along the first outer torso edge: one sc in each of its eight row ends, with one extra sc in the third and sixth row ends.
3. Work 8 sc down the outer edge of the first leg: one sc in each of its six row ends, with an extra sc in the second and fifth row ends.
4. Work 6 sc across the bottom of the first foot.
5. Work 8 sc up the inner edge of that leg: one sc in each of its six row ends, with an extra sc in the second and fifth row ends.
6. Work 1 sc in each of the two unused Row 8 stitches at the crotch.
7. Work 8 sc down the inner edge of the second leg: one sc in each of its six row ends, with an extra sc in the second and fifth row ends.
8. Work 6 sc across the bottom of the second foot.
9. Work 8 sc up the second outer leg edge: one sc in each of its six row ends, with an extra sc in the second and fifth row ends.
10. Work 10 sc along the second outer torso edge: one sc in each of its eight row ends, with one extra sc in the third and sixth row ends.

Add one extra sc at each of the four bottom foot corners: the outside and inside bottom corners of the first foot, and the outside and inside bottom corners of the second foot. These four increases are additional to the stitches already listed in the outline instructions.

Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (80 sc around the complete body and legs)

Check the edging before continuing. It should follow the cookie outline without noticeable ripples or tight pulling. The 80-stitch count is calculated from the row-end placement and still needs to be checked on a crocheted sample.

Spread the cookie shape flat. The edging should follow the outline without pulling the legs inward. If the corners curl despite the correct count, check that you haven't worked an extra stitch into a row end or skipped a foundation stitch.

Size checkpoint: At the revised gauge, the 14 worked rows calculate to approximately 3 1/4 inches tall before edging. Allowing for the brown outline, aim for a body and legs measuring about 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 inches tall. These are expected dimensions, not measurements from a completed sample. Check the actual height before making the head.

Part 5: Crochet Two Gingerbread Arms

Make two identical arms using brown yarn and the 3.75 mm hook. Each arm has a rounded outside end and a narrower section that will sit beneath the shoulders.

Foundation: Ch 6.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (5 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in the next 3 sts, and 2 hdc in the last st. (7 hdc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (7 hdc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, then hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. (5 hdc)

Fasten off. Make a second matching arm.

Arm outline: Join brown yarn and work 5 sc across the top row, 5 sc along the first side edge, 5 sc across the foundation edge, and 5 sc along the remaining side. Along each four-row side, work one sc into every row end and an extra sc into the second row end. Add one extra sc at each of the four corners as you turn. Join and fasten off. (24 sc around each arm)

Use your fingers to round the outside ends. The stitches should stay flat, without stuffing.

Set both arms beside the torso, with their narrower ends pointing toward the shoulders. They'll be sewn beneath the upper body once the face and icing are finished.

Part 6: Crochet the Gingerbread Girl's Head

Her face is a separate, round piece made with half double crochet. This is what gives her that cookie-like appearance without the face becoming a mass of decorative stitches.

Color: Gingerbread brown

Hook: 3.75 mm

Work joined rounds with the right side facing throughout. Chain 1 at the beginning of each round, but don't count that chain as a stitch. Join each round with a slip stitch into its first actual half double crochet.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 8 hdc into the ring. Pull the center closed and join. (8 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in every st around. Join. (16 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 1, repeat [1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the following st] 8 times. Join. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, repeat [1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the following st] 8 times. Join. (32 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 1, repeat [1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the following st] 8 times. Join. (40 hdc)

Round 6: Ch 1, repeat [1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the following st] 8 times. Join. (48 hdc)

Round 7, head outline: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the 48 sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (48 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

The finished head should be round, with visible half double crochet stitches. There's no need to work any textured clusters or bobbles into her face.

Head checkpoint: At the suggested gauge, the 48-stitch outer half double crochet round has a calculated circumference of approximately 9.6 inches, corresponding to a diameter of about 3 inches. The single crochet outline adds a little more width. Aim for a finished head approximately 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 inches across, but measure your actual piece. It should lie flat without cupping or ruffling.

If the head cups, check that every increase round contains the required number of stitches. If all six half double crochet round counts are correct and the circle still cups, try a slightly larger hook for a new head. If it ruffles, try a smaller hook. Don't add or remove increases from the written pattern without first checking your gauge.

Now lay the head over the upper body. It should cover the neck edge and overlap the shoulders slightly. The finished girl will look much closer to the example once the icing, bow and scarf are in place.

Add the Gingerbread Girl's Face, Icing and Decorations

Here's where she gets her personality. Keep the decorating fairly flat, even though the finished example has a little raised texture. You don't need to stuff the cheeks, bow or heart buttons.

Part 1: White Icing Across the Forehead

Use white yarn and a tapestry needle to make the icing line across the upper part of the round head.

How to make the chain embroidery stitches: Thread white yarn through a tapestry needle and bring the needle from the back to the front at the beginning of the icing line. Insert the needle back into the same opening, then bring its tip up a short distance ahead along the icing line. Keep the working yarn underneath the needle tip as you pull the needle through. This forms one small chain-shaped loop on the surface.

For the next stitch, insert the needle inside the end of the previous loop and bring its tip up a short distance ahead, again keeping the working yarn under the needle. Continue in this manner, following the icing line. Secure the final loop with a small anchoring stitch and fasten off on the back.

Use this same embroidery method for the icing on the forehead, both arms and both feet. Keep the loops small and the tension even so the brown crochet stays flat.

1. Place the head right side up, with the beginning-of-round joins at the bottom where they'll be covered by the scarf.
2. Mark an arc of approximately 16 stitches across the upper part of Round 6. The arc should run from about the 10 o'clock position to the 2 o'clock position.
3. Divide that arc into four sections of four stitches each.
4. Bring the white yarn up at the left end. Work a short line of chain embroidery stitches toward the first section marker.
5. In the middle of each four-stitch section, drop the icing line about one stitch row closer to the center of the face. Bring it back up toward the outside round at the next section marker.
6. Continue across all four sections, forming four shallow icing scallops. Secure the yarn on the back.

The icing should look like a thin wavy line, not a thick raised border. Keep the scallops shallow so they don't crowd her eyes.

Part 2: Embroider Her Eyes and Smile

Thread a tapestry needle with black yarn. Use the round head's center as your placement guide.

Left eye: About two stitches left of the center and slightly below the horizontal midpoint, embroider a small downward-curving closed eye. Use three or four short stitches to make the curve. Add one tiny outward eyelash at the end.

Right eye: Repeat on the opposite side, keeping both eyes at the same height. Add one outward eyelash.

Smile: Place the mouth approximately two stitch rows below the eyes. Use four or five short black stitches to form a shallow upward smile, about an inch wide. Keep the ends slightly higher than the middle.

Don't pull the black yarn so tightly that it sinks into the brown stitches. The face should stay smooth and round.

Part 3: Crochet Two Pink Cheeks

Use pink yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Make two:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, pull tight and join with a sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. Make the second cheek the same way.

Position one cheek below and slightly outward from each eye. Sew through the outer loops of the six single crochet stitches, keeping the circles flat.

Her cheeks should sit at the same height, with the smile centered between them. They're small enough that they won't cover the half double crochet texture on the face.

Part 4: White Icing on the Hands

Lay both brown arms right side up with their narrow attaching ends pointing inward.

Use white yarn and a tapestry needle to make a little scalloped icing line across the outside third of each arm.

1. Mark a short line across the arm approximately two stitches inward from its rounded outer end.
2. Work four or five small chain embroidery stitches across the line.
3. Let the line dip slightly toward the hand at two points, making gentle icing waves.
4. Fasten off on the back and repeat on the second arm, reversing the direction so the cuffs mirror one another.

The icing should cross each arm near the hand, just as it does in the finished example.

Part 5: White Icing on Both Feet

Keep the gingerbread body right side up. Work a separate white icing line across each leg, approximately two rows above the bottom edge.

1. On the first leg, use the six stitches across Row 12 as your main placement guide.
2. Bring the white yarn to the front at the outside edge of Row 12.
3. Work six short chain embroidery stitches across the leg, following the six stitch positions.
4. At the second and fifth stitch positions, dip the icing about half a stitch row toward the foot before bringing it back to the main line.
5. Secure the yarn on the back and repeat on the second leg, reversing the wave placement so the two icing cuffs mirror each other.

Keep the white yarn loose enough to follow the brown stitches without drawing the legs inward. Each foot should still lie flat.

Part 6: Crochet Two White Heart Buttons

Use white yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. These hearts are tiny, so they'll take only one round each.

Make two:

Make a magic ring. Without tightening the ring yet, work the following stitches into it in order:

Ch 2, 2 dc, 2 hdc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 hdc, 2 dc, ch 2, then sl st into the center of the magic ring.

Pull the magic ring closed carefully. The center dc forms the pointed bottom of the heart, while the two groups of taller stitches form the rounded top.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. Make the second heart.

Heart count: Each heart contains nine worked dc or hdc stitches, plus its shaping chains and closing slip stitch.

Place the hearts in a vertical line down the center of the gingerbread torso. The upper heart should sit below the scarf, with the second heart a little farther down toward the hips.

Sew both hearts down through their outer stitches. Keep the pointed ends facing the feet.

Part 7: Crochet the Red Hair Bow

Her bow is made from two shaped red loops and a narrow center wrap. It sits on the upper right side of her head, covering a small section of the white icing.

Color: Christmas red

Hook: 3.5 mm

Make two matching bow loops.

Foundation: Ch 3.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from hook and in the next ch. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in each st. (4 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Work 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, and 2 sc in the last st. (6 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, then sc2tog over the last 2 sts. (4 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Make the second loop the same way.

Lay the two loops side by side with their narrow Row 1 ends touching in the center. Angle their wider portions outward, like the two wings of a bow. Stitch the narrow ends together with red yarn.

Center wrap: Ch 5. Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (4 sc)

Center wrap Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in all 4 sts. (4 sc)

Fasten off with a long tail. Lay this short strip across the joined center of the bow. Wrap its ends around the narrow center and sew them together on the back.

Pinch the middle slightly so the two bow loops lift away from it. Don't stuff them. The texture of the single crochet stitches gives the bow enough shape.

Position the bow near the upper right edge of the face. Sew the center down first, then catch the outer corners of both loops with a few matching red stitches so they won't flop forward.

Part 8: Crochet the Green Scarf Neckband

The green scarf has a short band across the neck and a separate hanging end. Keeping them in two pieces makes it easier to put the scarf exactly where it belongs.

Color: Leaf green

Hook: 3.75 mm

Foundation: Ch 13.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (12 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (12 hdc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The 12-stitch scarf band calculates to approximately 2 3/8 inches long at the suggested gauge. The finished length may vary a little with your yarn. It should lie across the lower edge of the head and the upper body without pulling either side inward.

Part 9: Crochet the Hanging Scarf End

Use the same leaf-green yarn and hook.

Foundation: Ch 5.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (4 hdc)

Rows 2–5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the 4 sts. (4 hdc per row)

Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail.

Add the fringe: Cut three short pieces of green yarn, each about 2 inches long. Fold each piece in half. Pull its folded center through a separate stitch along the bottom of Row 5, then pass both loose ends through the folded loop and pull snugly.

You'll have six little fringe strands hanging from the bottom of the scarf. Trim them evenly to approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch below the crocheted tail.

Keep the two scarf pieces separate for now, with their sewing tails attached. Do not sew them onto the neck yet. First, join the gingerbread head and torso as directed in Assembly Step 2.

In Assembly Step 3, place the hanging scarf end beneath the right side of the neckband and sew the two pieces together from behind. Then secure the band across the joined neck and the hanging end against the torso. Only the short fringe strands should hang free.

At this point, you'll have all the icing and clothing pieces needed for the gingerbread girl. Set them aside while we crochet the ivory square.

Crochet the Ivory Granny Square Background

Now we'll make the square that holds our gingerbread girl. The first six rounds are warm ivory, and the seventh round is evergreen green.

I'd stick with a traditional granny stitch here. There's already plenty of detail in the gingerbread girl, and a simple background gives her face, scarf and icing room to show.

Hook: 5 mm

Yarn: Warm ivory for Rounds 1–6 and deep evergreen for Round 7.

Round 1: Center

With ivory yarn, ch 4 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring.

Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 2.

Work [3 dc into the ring, ch 2] three more times.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 1 count: 4 granny groups and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.

Round 2

Sl st into the next 2 dc and into the first corner ch-2 space.

In that corner space work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

In each of the remaining three corner spaces, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 2 count: 8 granny groups, 4 corner ch-2 spaces and 4 side ch-1 spaces.

Round 3

Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the following corner ch-2 space.

In that corner work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in the next side ch-1 space.

In the next corner work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

Continue around the square, working one granny group followed by ch 1 in each side ch-1 space and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) followed by ch 1 in each corner.

Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 3 count: 12 granny groups and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.

Round 4

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc, then sl st into the following corner ch-2 space. Keep these slip stitches loose enough that the first granny group stays flat.

Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in every side ch-1 space until the next corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, then ch 1.

Repeat the same construction around the remaining sides, placing one granny group into every side ch-1 space and two granny groups separated by ch 2 into every corner.

Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 4 count: 16 granny groups.

Round 5

Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the following corner ch-2 space.

Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into that corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) into each side ch-1 space until the next corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner, then ch 1.

After the second corner, work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space until you reach the third corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the third corner, then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space until you reach the fourth corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the fourth corner, then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space along the final side, stopping before the beginning corner. Do not work the beginning corner again.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 5 count: 20 granny groups and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.

Round 6

Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the following corner ch-2 space.

Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into that corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) into each side ch-1 space until the next corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space along the second side. In the third corner, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space along the third side. In the fourth corner, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space along the fourth side. Stop before the beginning corner. Do not work into that corner again.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 6 count: 24 granny groups and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.

Fasten off ivory and weave in the yarn end.

Round 7: Deep Evergreen Border

Join evergreen yarn in any corner ch-2 space.

Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into that corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in every side ch-1 space until you reach the next corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, then ch 1.

After completing the second corner, work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space until you reach the third corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the third corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space until you reach the fourth corner.

Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the fourth corner, then ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each side ch-1 space along the final side. Stop before reaching the beginning corner. Do not work into that corner again.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 and fasten off.

Round 7 count: 28 granny groups, with 7 groups along each side counting both corner groups. There should be 6 ch-1 spaces between the neighboring groups along each side.

That evergreen round gives the square its Christmas frame. You don't need another decorative border to make the finished example.

Granny Square Stitch Count Check

Round	Granny Groups	Groups Per Side
1	4	1
2	8	2
3	12	3
4	16	4
5	20	5
6	24	6
7	28	7

Every round should have four ch-2 corners. Each new round adds four granny groups to the previous round's total.

Blocking checkpoint: Gently block the completed square into a square shape, aiming for approximately 8 by 8 inches. Measure both directions through the middle and check all four sides. Don't stretch it so far that the granny stitches lose their shape.

The ivory center should give you enough room for the gingerbread girl and the four holly corners without covering the evergreen edge.

Add the Holly Corners and Green Border Details

The holly corners are the final little Christmas detail. Each corner has two green leaves and three red berries, arranged like a small sprig.

You'll make eight leaves and twelve berries altogether. I know that sounds like a lot of tiny pieces, but the leaves all use the same short pattern, and the berries are just little circles.

Part 1: Crochet the Holly Leaves

Make eight leaves.

Yarn: Leaf green

Hook: 3.5 mm

Each leaf is worked along both sides of a foundation chain. A few tiny chain points give the edges the shape of holly.

How to make each holly point: Whenever the instructions say to ch 2 and slip stitch into the second of those chains, insert the hook into the second chain from the hook. This is the first of the two chains you just made. Work one slip stitch into it to form a tiny point, then continue with the next stitch instructed. Make all three leaf points this same way.

Foundation: Ch 7.

First side: Sl st in the second ch from the hook. Work 1 sc in the next ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, and 1 dc in the next ch.

Ch 2 and sl st into the second of those two chains to form a small side point.

Work 1 hdc in the next foundation ch.

Leaf tip: In the final foundation ch, work 1 sc, ch 2, sl st into the second of those two chains, then work another sc into the same final foundation ch.

Opposite side: Rotate the leaf so you can work into the unused loops along the other side of the original foundation chain. Work 1 hdc in the next chain, then 1 dc in the following chain.

Ch 2 and sl st into the second of those chains to make another small side point.

Continue along the foundation with 1 hdc in the next chain, 1 sc in the following chain, and 1 sl st in the final chain at the base.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

Leaf count: Each leaf has twelve worked stitches along the foundation-chain sides, plus three little chain points. The three points are not counted as additional foundation stitches.

Make seven more identical leaves. Shape each one lightly with your fingers so the center is fuller than the pointed tip.

Part 2: Crochet the Red Holly Berries

Make twelve berries.

Yarn: Christmas red

Hook: 3.5 mm

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1 and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the center closed and join with a sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)

Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Repeat until you have twelve small red circles. Don't add stuffing. The stitches themselves give each berry a little texture.

Part 3: Make Four Holly Arrangements

Set aside two leaves and three berries for each of the four corners.

Lay the two leaves at an angle, with their narrow bases touching and their tips pointing in different directions. Place the three berries together over the touching leaf bases.

Arrange the berries in a small triangle, with two close together and the third slightly above or below them. Sew the three berries to the leaf bases with their red tails, then secure the green leaves together from the back.

Repeat to make four matching holly arrangements. You should now have four complete clusters, each made from two leaves and three berries.

Part 4: Position the Holly on the Granny Square

Lay the finished granny square right side up. Place one holly arrangement near each corner, just inside the deep evergreen border.

Use the ivory granny groups around Rounds 5 and 6 as your placement guides. The berries should sit roughly one inch diagonally inward from the outer corner, although the exact spacing will depend on your finished square.

Turn each arrangement so the leaf tips point toward the nearby edges of the square. The upper-left and lower-right corners should look like reflections of one another, and the remaining two corners should balance them.

Pin the four clusters temporarily. Check that none of the leaf tips or berries cover the evergreen outer border or crowd the gingerbread girl's bow, head or feet.

Leave all four holly clusters pinned in place for now. Do not sew them to the granny square yet. You'll check their positions against the completely assembled gingerbread girl during Step 5 of Assembly and Finishing.

Keep the sewing tails available until that placement check is complete.

That's all the corner decoration needed. Four matching holly sprigs give the whole square a finished Christmas look without adding another border round.

Assemble and Finish the Gingerbread Granny Square

Before sewing everything onto the ivory background, lay the pieces out together. You'll get a much better result if you check the finished shape now instead of trying to move the pieces after they're attached.

Step 1: Prepare the Gingerbread Pieces

Lay the brown torso and legs right side up. Position one arm at each shoulder, with the rounded ends pointing outward and the icing cuffs facing up.

Tuck approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch of each arm's narrow end beneath the upper sides of the torso, near Body Rows 2–4.

Make sure both arms extend outward at roughly the same angle. The arms should look relaxed and slightly raised, rather than pointing straight down.

Sew the tucked ends of the arms to the back of the torso, catching several stitches along each attaching edge. Don't sew across the rounded hands.

Check that both arms lie flat and that the white icing cuffs remain visible.

Step 2: Attach the Gingerbread Head

Place the round brown head over the narrow upper end of the torso. Overlap the head and upper body by approximately 3/4 inch, centering the head over the shoulders. Pin the pieces together and check the complete height before sewing. The scarf will cover this join.

Center the head so the smile and two heart buttons line up vertically. The upper part of the head should extend well above the shoulder line.

Pin the head in place. Sew along the overlapping lower edge of the head, using the brown sewing tail and catching stitches from the torso underneath.

Secure the head on both sides of the neck. Its upper and side edges will be attached to the background square during the final assembly.

Check the outline from the front. You should see a large, round gingerbread face above the narrower torso, with the two arms extending from either side.

Step 3: Attach the Bow, Hearts and Scarf

If you haven't sewn the red hair bow onto the head yet, attach it at the upper right side, partly covering the end of the forehead icing.

Secure both white heart buttons down the center of the torso. The upper heart should sit below the neckline, and the lower heart should sit above the point where the legs separate.

Lay the green scarf band across the lower edge of the head. Center it over the neck so it covers the join between the head and torso.

Position the hanging scarf end toward the right side of the gingerbread girl, as shown in the finished example. It should fall beside the heart buttons without covering them completely.

Sew the scarf band in place along its upper and lower edges. Secure the hanging end at its top and along the side that touches the body. Leave the short fringe visible.

Weave in all accessible yarn ends on the back of the gingerbread figure.

Step 4: Check the Complete Gingerbread Girl

Set the assembled figure on a flat surface and straighten the legs, arms and scarf.

Measure from the top of the bow to the bottom of the lowest foot. The planned finished height is approximately 6 1/4 to 6 3/4 inches, but your actual measurement will depend on the yarn and gauge.

The completed figure should also have:

• A rounded head with visible half double crochet stitches
• Two matching arms with icing cuffs
• Two separated legs with white icing across the feet
• A red bow on the upper right side of the head
• Two pink cheeks, closed embroidered eyes and a smiling mouth
• Two white heart buttons
• A green scarf with one short hanging end and fringe

Check the back for loose yarn ends before attaching the figure to the square.

Step 5: Position the Gingerbread Girl on the Ivory Square

Place the finished granny square right side up on a flat surface. The green border and four holly corner arrangements should be visible.

Lay the assembled gingerbread girl in the middle of the ivory background. Adjust her position so the bow and the feet have a little room inside the green edge.

Try to leave at least 1/4 inch of visible ivory between the outermost gingerbread details and the evergreen border. More space is fine if your pieces are a little smaller.

Check the arm tips, bow and feet before pinning. None of them should cover the green border or overlap a holly cluster.

If the gingerbread girl is larger than the space available, don't pull her inward with sewing stitches. Check the gauge and remake the oversized brown component with a smaller hook if needed. If all the brown pieces are oversized, use the smaller hook for the complete gingerbread figure so its proportions stay consistent.

Once the complete gingerbread girl and all four holly clusters are pinned in their final positions, check the spacing around the bow, arms, head and feet one more time. Make any needed placement adjustments before sewing.

Now sew the four holly clusters to the ivory background, passing the needle through the solid granny groups rather than only through the chain spaces. Catch each leaf tip with a small stitch so it stays flat. Secure the berries and weave the remaining yarn tails into the backs of the leaves and berries. Avoid leaving long strands across the open ivory background.

Keep the gingerbread girl pinned in her chosen position while you secure the holly. Then proceed to Step 6 to sew the gingerbread figure onto the square.

Step 6: Sew the Gingerbread Girl to the Granny Square

Thread a tapestry needle with brown yarn and secure it on the back of the gingerbread figure.

Begin at the lower body. Use small stitches to attach the body outline to the ivory background, passing the needle through the solid three-double-crochet granny groups rather than only through the open chain spaces.

Work around both legs, the feet and the sides of the torso. Place a securing stitch approximately every two or three brown edging stitches, adding more wherever the outline begins to lift.

Next, sew along the free outer edges of the two arms. Keep the arms in the positions you pinned earlier. Don't pull them inward.

Continue around the head, using small brown stitches to catch the outer single-crochet round. Keep the face smooth and avoid pulling through the front of the embroidered features.

Secure the raised bow loops and the lower edge of the scarf with a few additional stitches if needed.

Turn the square over and check your sewing. The brown figure should be attached across its outline, without long strands of yarn running behind the open granny spaces.

Step 7: Final Holly and Border Check

Look at all four corners. The two green leaves and three red berries in each cluster should still be visible beside the gingerbread girl.

Check the holly leaf tips and berry edges. Add a small matching stitch anywhere a decoration lifts away from the background.

Make sure the evergreen outer round is free of the appliqué sewing stitches. You'll need that edge if you decide to join this square to others for a blanket.

Step 8: Blocking and Finishing

Lay the completed square flat and straighten all four corners. If your yarn allows gentle blocking, shape the square to its intended size without pressing down on the raised bow, cheeks or berry details.

Let the square dry completely before measuring or joining it to another one.

Final measurements to record:

• Width of finished granny square
• Height of finished granny square
• Height of gingerbread girl, including bow
• Full width across both arms
• Distance from bow to upper green border
• Distance from feet to lower green border

For the coordinating Christmas blanket, aim for an approximately 8-inch finished square. It should match the dimensions of the other squares you plan to join.

Final construction check: The gingerbread figure should remain flat when you lift the square by its top two corners. Her arms, head, legs and scarf should stay attached without sagging away from the ivory background.

Remove all temporary pins and stitch markers. Check every yarn tail and decorative attachment, including the bow loops, cheeks, white hearts, scarf fringe, holly leaves and berries, before using or displaying the finished project.

A note about baby projects: This decorated square includes small sewn-on pieces and short fringe. I'd use it for a decorative Christmas keepsake, framed project or display pillow rather than an infant's sleeping blanket. Don't place a decorated blanket, pillow or other loose item in a baby's sleep space.

Pattern development note: The body, legs, head, arms and granny-square stitch counts have been checked mathematically. Component measurements, assembly fit and the complete finished square have not been verified by physically crocheting a sample. Make and measure one square before repeating the pattern for a larger project.

Christmas Blanket and Pillow Ideas

One gingerbread girl square would make a pretty Christmas decoration on its own. You could also use several of them in a blanket or mix her with other holiday granny squares.

Make a Christmas Granny Square Blanket

If you're making a blanket, I'd use the gingerbread girl as one of the decorated squares and surround her with plainer ivory, cranberry or green blocks. You don't need a gingerbread character on every square.

My free Christmas granny square blanket pattern includes the joining instructions, border and layouts for three blanket sizes.

Use the same seven-round granny square foundation for your coordinating blocks. Make one square first, measure it, and check that the edges match before crocheting the rest.

Make a Christmas Pillow

You can also use the gingerbread girl as the center of a small decorative pillow. I'd surround her with plain granny squares so the raised bow and holly details don't have to compete with more decorations.

For a larger pillow front, join this square to coordinating blocks and add a separate back panel sized to match. Keep the filling enclosed behind the finished crochet cover.

Display a Single Gingerbread Square

For a smaller Christmas project, frame one finished square or attach it to a fabric backing for a seasonal wall hanging.

A single square lets all the little details show, especially the white icing, green scarf and holly corners.

If you want to make more Christmas motifs, browse the free Christmas granny square pattern collection for coordinating designs.

Gingerbread Crochet Granny Square Pattern FAQs

Is this an easy gingerbread granny square pattern?

The granny square background is beginner-friendly, but the complete gingerbread girl is an intermediate project. You'll need to shape the body, crochet a round head, add small decorations and sew everything together. I'd make one finished square before starting a blanket.

Why is the gingerbread head made separately?

A separate round head gives you more control over the shape of the face. It also lets you embroider the eyes and icing before sewing the head to the body. The scarf covers the join at the neckline.

Can I make the gingerbread girl without the holly corners?

Yes, if you want a simpler variation. The gingerbread girl and ivory background will still make a complete square. The four holly arrangements belong to the featured design, so keep them if you want your project to match the example image.

Can I use cotton yarn instead of acrylic?

Yes. A smooth cotton yarn can show the stitches nicely. Just make a gauge swatch first, since cotton and acrylic yarns can produce different sizes even when the yarn labels give them the same weight category.

What if the face curls after the last round?

First check the half double crochet round counts: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 stitches, followed by 48 single crochet stitches for the outline. The head should lie flat. If the counts are correct but it still cups or ripples, try a slightly different hook size on a second head before changing the increase pattern.

Can I wash the finished granny square?

Follow the care directions for the yarn you choose. Check that the cheeks, hearts, bow, holly and scarf are firmly attached before washing. For a piece with several small decorations, I'd use gentle handling and lay it flat to dry unless the yarn and finished construction have been checked for another washing method.

There you have it. A little gingerbread girl with her Christmas bow, green scarf and icing details, all framed in a traditional granny square. Make one, check the fit, and then decide whether she needs a few Christmas friends.