Free Crochet Candy Cane Granny Square Pattern with Holly and Berries

By Jan Bay

This free crochet candy cane granny square pattern features two lightly stuffed red-and-ivory candy canes crossed beneath a little holly decoration and red bow. Four miniature holly-and-berry emblems decorate the corners of the ivory granny square, finished with a green border. I'll show you how to crochet the candy canes, shape their curved tops without wire, add just enough stuffing for a gentle raised look, and sew everything onto the square for a Christmas blanket or holiday throw.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Free Crochet Candy Cane Granny Square Pattern: Finished Size and Skill Level

We're making a Christmas granny square with two little candy canes that stand up just a bit from the background. The candy canes are crocheted separately, lightly stuffed, and sewn onto an ivory granny square. A red bow, holly leaves, and berries finish the center, with smaller holly decorations in all four corners.

Expected finished size: Approximately 12 inches square with worsted-weight yarn, the suggested hook, and the gauge below. This is a calculated target, not a measurement taken from a finished sample.

Skill level: Intermediate. You'll need to know basic granny clusters, joined rounds, color changes, increases, decreases, and simple sewing with a yarn needle.

Construction: One granny-square background, two stuffed candy canes, two large holly leaves, eight small corner leaves, fifteen crocheted berries, and five bow pieces.

Finished appearance: An ivory granny square with a green border, two crossed red-and-ivory candy canes, a central green holly arrangement with three red berries and a red bow, and four smaller holly-and-berry decorations near the corners.

I'd use this square in a Christmas throw, on a seasonal cushion, or as a keepsake you can put on display. Those stuffed candy canes and little sewn-on berries are lovely details, but they don't belong in an infant's sleep space. Keep this one for decorating rather than making it into an infant sleep blanket.

Before making several squares: Complete one background and measure it after blocking. If you're joining this square to your gingerbread or elf squares, compare their finished dimensions before attaching the candy canes. The joining edges need to match, even if the decorative centers are different.

Materials and Supplies

I'd keep the yarn simple and use the same brand and weight for all three colors. That makes the stripes more even and keeps the candy canes from looking lumpy where the colors change.

Yarn: Worsted-weight yarn, category 4, in the following colors:

• Ivory: approximately 110 to 140 yards for the granny square, candy-cane stripes, and finishing.
• Christmas red: approximately 40 to 60 yards for the candy canes, berries, and bow.
• Sage green: approximately 30 to 45 yards for the border, holly leaves, and finishing.

These yarn amounts are estimates, not measurements from a finished sample. I've allowed a little extra for sewing on the decorations and making adjustments. You don't need to buy a separate skein for every tiny berry or holly leaf if you already have enough of the right colors.

You'll also need:

• 5 mm (H/8) crochet hook for the granny square.
• 3.5 mm (E/4) crochet hook for the candy canes, leaves, berries, and bow.
• Small amount of polyester fiberfill.
• Blunt yarn needle with an eye large enough for the yarn.
• Scissors.
• Removable stitch markers.
• Measuring tape or ruler.
• Blocking mat and rust-resistant pins, if needed.

Use the smaller hook for the stuffed pieces. You want close stitches that hold the filling inside, rather than gaps where the fiberfill can show.

Don't add wire to the candy canes. We'll shape the curved tops with crochet stitches and sewing yarn instead.

Crochet Abbreviations and Gauge

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

• ch: Chain.
• sc: Single crochet.
• hdc: Half double crochet.
• dc: Double crochet.
• sl st: Slip stitch.
• sc2tog: Single crochet two stitches together.
• inc: Work two single crochet stitches into one stitch.
• st/sts: Stitch or stitches.
• rnd: Round.
• sp: Space.
• RS: Right side.
• WS: Wrong side.

Granny cluster: Three double crochet stitches worked into the same chain space.

Granny-square gauge: As a starting checkpoint, aim for approximately 4 inches across the first three rounds, measuring straight from the middle of one side to the middle of the opposite side after gently flattening the square. Do not measure diagonally from corner to corner.

Continue to Round 9 and measure the completed square across both directions. Approximately 12 inches is the intended finished size, but the three-round checkpoint alone cannot guarantee that measurement. Adjust your hook or the number of complete granny rounds if needed, then confirm that the final square matches the companion squares you plan to join.

Candy-cane gauge: As a starting target, aim for approximately 5 to 6 single crochet stitches per inch around the circumference of the lightly stuffed 12-stitch tube, using the 3.5 mm hook. This corresponds to a calculated outside diameter of approximately 5/8 to 3/4 inch. Measure the first tube before making the second, since yarn thickness, tension, and stuffing can change its finished diameter.

Keep these two measurements separate. Measure the granny square straight across its sides. For the candy canes, check the width of the stuffed tube. Having 12 stitches around tells you about the thickness of a candy cane, not how long it will be. The height of those crochet rounds matters too.

For crochet terminology and stitch standards, you can also refer to the Craft Yarn Council's crochet abbreviations reference.

Before You Start

Place a marker in the first stitch of every candy-cane round. Move it up as you work. You'll crochet the tubular pieces in continuous rounds, but the granny square is worked in joined rounds.

For the candy canes, count twelve stitches at the end of every full-size round. On the shaped section, a decrease and an increase balance each other, so the total stays twelve. If that count changes, correct the round before continuing.

Crochet the Ivory Granny Square Base

Start with the background. I prefer making it before the candy canes because you can check the size and decide exactly how much room you'll have for the raised decorations.

Use ivory yarn and the 5 mm hook.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2) into the ring three more times. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Count: 4 granny clusters, 12 dc stitches, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces.

Round 2: Sl st into the top of each of the next 2 dc stitches, then sl st into the first ch-2 corner space. Ch 3, work 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc into that same corner space. Ch 1. In each of the next three corner spaces, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), followed by ch 1. Join to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Count: 8 granny clusters, 24 dc stitches, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, and 4 ch-1 side spaces.

Round 3: Sl st across the remaining stitches of the first cluster and into the next ch-2 corner space. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc in that corner. Ch 1, work 3 dc into the next ch-1 side space, ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner. Continue around, placing one 3-dc cluster in each side space and two clusters separated by ch 2 in every corner. Ch 1 between neighboring clusters. Join to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Count: 12 granny clusters, 36 dc stitches, 4 ch-2 corners, and 8 ch-1 side spaces.

Rounds 4 through 8: Continue the same granny-square construction. At the beginning of each round, slip stitch across the remaining stitches to reach the next ch-2 corner space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that first corner. In the other three corners work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Work one 3-dc cluster in every ch-1 side space, with ch 1 between neighboring clusters. Join each round to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Use these exact checkpoints:

• Round 4: 16 clusters, 48 dc, 12 side ch-1 spaces, and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.
• Round 5: 20 clusters, 60 dc, 16 side ch-1 spaces, and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.
• Round 6: 24 clusters, 72 dc, 20 side ch-1 spaces, and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.
• Round 7: 28 clusters, 84 dc, 24 side ch-1 spaces, and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.
• Round 8: 32 clusters, 96 dc, 28 side ch-1 spaces, and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.

Add the Sage-Green Border

Round 9: Fasten off ivory and join sage-green yarn in any ch-2 corner space with the RS facing. Ch 3, work 2 dc, ch 2, and 3 dc into that corner. Ch 1. Work one 3-dc cluster in each ch-1 side space, making ch 1 between clusters. At every remaining corner, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Continue around, then join to the top of the beginning ch 3.

Round 9 count: 36 granny clusters, 108 dc stitches, 32 ch-1 side spaces, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Check the Background Before Adding Decorations

Set the square on the table before going any farther. You want four reasonably square corners, fairly straight sides, and a center that lies flat. If the middle is pulling up into a little bowl, check your stitch counts and tension before adding the candy canes. It's much easier to fix the background now.

Measure across the center in both directions. The expected finished size is approximately 12 inches, but use your actual measurement for the remaining assembly.

If you're matching an existing Christmas throw, compare the square to one of the finished companion squares now. Keep the finished appearance to one sage-green outer round. If you need a larger or smaller square, undo the green border, add or remove an ivory granny round, and then work the final round in green again. Each added granny round increases the total by four clusters. Check the finished measurement and joining-edge count before making several squares.

Each ordinary additional granny round increases the cluster count by four. For example, an optional tenth round has 40 clusters and 120 dc stitches.

Don't try to stretch a noticeably smaller square into shape with blocking. Match the round count, yarn, and gauge first.

Crochet Two Red-and-Ivory Candy Canes

Now for the part that gives this square its personality. We're making two matching candy canes with rounded bodies, alternating stripes, and hooks that curl outward.

Each candy cane starts at its lower rounded tip and works upward. You'll crochet the straight section first, then shape the hook near the top.

Use the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds without joining unless instructed otherwise.

Begin the First Candy Cane

Round 1, ivory: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. Pull the ring closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc into each stitch around. (12 sc)

Rounds 3 through 6: Work 1 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc per round)

Rounds 7 through 10, red: Change to red at the last yarn-over of the final stitch of Round 6. Work 1 sc in each stitch around for four rounds. (12 sc per round)

Rounds 11 through 14, ivory: Change to ivory and work 1 sc in every stitch for four rounds. (12 sc per round)

Rounds 15 through 18, red: Change to red and work 1 sc in every stitch for four rounds. (12 sc per round)

Rounds 19 through 22, ivory: Change to ivory and work 1 sc in every stitch for four rounds. (12 sc per round)

Rounds 23 through 26, red: Change to red and work 1 sc in every stitch for four rounds. (12 sc per round)

First stuffing checkpoint: Before beginning Round 27, add small pinches of polyester fiberfill through the open top. Use the blunt end of your crochet hook to guide the filling toward the closed lower tip. Fill the straight section lightly, a little at a time, until it looks rounded without stretching the stitches. Leave the upper opening clear so you can work the curved hook.

Don't pack the filling tightly. The tube should still bend easily when you press it. Keep the working yarn and any carried color strands free of the stuffing as you continue.

You now have a striped tube with 12 stitches around and 26 completed rounds, including its rounded starting end.

Checkpoint: The tube should be smooth and even. It shouldn't flare where you changed colors. Measure the outside diameter. Aim for approximately 5/8 to 3/4 inch, with room for a little filling.

If your tube is considerably wider, try a smaller hook before making the second candy cane. A very thick tube will make the entire arrangement too bulky for the granny-square background.

Keeping the Stripes Neat

Because we're crocheting in continuous rounds, each color change may create a small step. That's normal. Keep those transitions along the back of the candy cane where they'll be less visible after assembly.

For each new stripe, complete the final stitch of the previous round with the new color. Carry the inactive yarn loosely inside the tube for these short four-round sections, or cut and secure it inside if carrying causes the surface to pucker.

Don't pull the unused color tight. We want the tube to bend without the carried strand acting like a drawstring.

Keep your stitch marker in place. The next section uses it to locate the inside of the hook.

Shape and Lightly Stuff the Candy Canes

We want a rounded candy cane, not a straight tube folded in half. The curved top needs a shorter inside edge and a longer outside edge. We'll do that with paired decreases and increases while keeping the stitch count the same.

First, decide which side of the tube will be the inside of the candy-cane hook. The beginning of each shaping round will sit on that inside edge.

At the end of Round 26, keep your stitch marker at the established beginning of the round. Rotate the entire candy-cane tube so that the marked side becomes the inside edge of the curved hook. Begin Round 27 at the next scheduled stitch, changing to ivory at the last yarn-over of Round 26's final stitch.

Do not add extra single crochet stitches to move the beginning of the round. The shaping repeat must begin at the established round marker so that every round contains exactly 12 stitches and the color bands remain even.

Crochet the Curved Hook

For each shaping round, use the following sequence:

Shaping sequence: Sc2tog over stitches 1 and 2, sc in each of the next 4 stitches, work 2 sc in the next stitch, then sc in each of the remaining 5 stitches. (12 sc)

The decrease shortens the inside edge. The increase adds room along the outside of the curve.

Keep the shaping line straight: The first stitch of every round marks the inside edge of the candy-cane hook. As you finish each round, remove the marker from the previous round and place it in the first stitch just made. Leave it there until you work the first stitch of the following round, then move it up again.

On shaping rounds, the sc2tog begins at this marked inside edge. The increase falls on the opposite side. On plain rounds, work 12 sc without shifting the starting position.

Don't move the marker sideways to follow the curve. The shaping must stay aligned along the same side of the tube. If the decrease line begins spiraling around the candy cane, correct the marker position before continuing.

Round 27, ivory: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 28: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 29: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 30: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 31, red: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 32: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 33: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 34: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 35, ivory: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 36: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 37: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 38: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 39, red: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 40: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 41: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 42: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 43, ivory: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 44: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 45: Work the shaping sequence. (12 sc)

Round 46: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Shaping checkpoint: You have completed ten shaping rounds and ten plain rounds. Every round still contains 12 sc. The tube should show some inward bending along the marked edge.

The bend may not yet form a complete candy-cane hook. That's expected. The final curvature also depends on the filling and the concealed shaping stitches added below. Check the shape against the finished example before closing the tip.

How to Add the Light Stuffing

The straight section should already be lightly filled from the Round 26 checkpoint. Before closing the hook, add a few more small pinches of polyester fiberfill through the remaining opening.

Guide the filling gently into the curved section without forcing the hook straight. Keep the inside of the bend loosely filled so it can curve naturally. Leave the last round or two lightly filled to make closing the rounded tip easier.

I wouldn't pack it like an amigurumi toy. The finished candy cane should feel lightly padded and still bend when you press it.

Check the stripes from the outside. If white fiberfill shows through the red stitches, your stuffing is too firm or your crochet stitches are too open. Remove a little filling or use a smaller hook for the next sample.

Close the Rounded Hook Tip

Round 47: Work sc2tog six times around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail approximately 12 inches long. Thread it through the front loops of the remaining six stitches and pull gently to close the opening. Secure the tail without flattening the tip.

Repeat the complete pattern for the second candy cane.

Give Each Hook Its Final Curve

Use a length of matching yarn and a blunt needle. Place the candy cane on a flat surface with the marked inside edge facing the center of the intended hook.

Beginning near Round 27, run the needle through the inside-facing stitch bars at approximately Rounds 27, 31, 35, 39, 43, and 46. Pick up one or two stitch bars at each location rather than passing through the entire tube.

Gently draw the yarn in until the top curves into a recognizable candy-cane hook. The shaping yarn should shorten the inside of the bend without creating deep folds.

Curve checkpoint: Before securing the shaping yarn, place the two candy canes side by side with their hooks pointing in opposite directions. The hooks should look like mirror images, and the straight sections should be approximately the same length.

If one hook curls more tightly than the other, loosen its inside shaping yarn. If a hook doesn't curve enough, draw the shaping yarn in a little more. Make these adjustments while the yarn is still loose. Don't force either hook into a tight loop or pull hard enough to wrinkle the stitches.

Once both hooks match, secure each shaping yarn through several stitches along the inside of its curve. Weave the remaining yarn into the crocheted fabric and trim it. Check that the curves hold their shape before sewing the candy canes to the granny square.

Expected measurements: Each completed cane is expected to use 47 rounds, including the decrease round. Its measured length and final height will depend on round gauge and how tightly the hook is shaped. The arrangement is intended to fit within roughly 8 inches across the center of a 12-inch square.

The finished cane lengths are estimates, not measurements from a completed sample. Before sewing them down, check how each hook curves. If the stitches start to wrinkle when you draw in the shaping yarn, loosen it a little and check the stuffing. You want a rounded hook, not one that's been pulled into a tight, lumpy bend.

Crochet the Green Holly Leaves

The center decoration uses two larger holly leaves that spread out from behind the berries. We'll make them first, then use a smaller version for the corner decorations.

I want these bigger leaves to look like holly, not just plain green ovals. The little pointed edges make the difference. You'll make those points with simple chains and slip stitches, so there's no separate chart to figure out.

Use sage-green yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Large Center Holly Leaves: Make Two

Foundation: Ch 11.

Holly points: To make a small pointed edge, ch 2 and sl st into the first of those two chains. This makes a tiny picot. Picots do not count toward the 20 main stitches.

First side: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, make a picot, work 2 dc, make a picot, work 2 dc, make a picot, work 2 dc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc across the foundation chain. (10 main sts and 3 picots)

Ch 1 at the base of the leaf. Rotate the work so you can crochet along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain.

Second side: Work 1 sc, 1 hdc, make a picot, work 2 dc, make a picot, work 2 dc, make a picot, work 2 dc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc along the opposite side. (10 main sts and 3 picots)

At the pointed end, ch 2 and sl st into the first of those two chains to form the final tip. Sl st into the nearest sc to secure it.

Leaf checkpoint: Each leaf has 20 main stitches, three small points along each long edge, and one pointed tip. The picots should stand slightly outward without pulling the leaf into a tight curve.

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail.

Count: 20 worked stitches around the two long sides of each leaf, excluding the small tip and turning chains.

Make the second leaf the same way.

Add the Holly Leaf Veins

Thread a blunt needle with sage-green yarn or a slightly darker green shade if you already have one.

Bring the needle up near the base of the leaf and make one long, loose stitch toward the tip. Add two or three short angled stitches on each side to suggest leaf veins.

Keep these stitches close to the crocheted surface. Don't pull tightly enough to make the leaf curl.

The two large leaves will sit behind the center berries, one pointing left and the other pointing right.

Check the Center Leaves

Lay both leaves beside the crossed candy canes. They should spread outward without hiding too much of the striped sections.

If either leaf seems too large, adjust the hook size before making the remaining leaves. Avoid trimming a finished leaf by pulling on its sewing tail. That can distort the stitches.

Crochet the Red Holly Berries

We'll make fifteen small red berries altogether. Three belong in the center arrangement, and the other twelve will be divided among the four corner decorations.

I like the little raised berries here because they repeat the rounded look of the stuffed candy canes. Keep them small so they don't overpower the leaves.

Use red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Large Center Holly Berries: Make Three

Use red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc into each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 3: Sc in every stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 4: Work sc2tog six times. (6 sc)

Add a tiny pinch of polyester fiberfill. Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail approximately 12 inches long. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining six stitches and draw the opening closed.

Make three matching center berries.

Miniature Corner Holly Berries: Make Twelve

Use the same red yarn and 3.5 mm hook. These berries have a smaller circumference so they fit the little corner leaves.

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: Repeat (1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the following stitch) three times. (9 sc)

Round 3: Sc in every stitch around. (9 sc)

Round 4: Repeat (sc2tog over the next 2 stitches, sc in the following stitch) three times. (6 sc)

These little berries need very little filling. Add only a tiny pinch if needed to support the shape.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail approximately 10 inches long. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining six stitches and draw the opening closed.

Make twelve miniature berries, three for each corner emblem.

Berry count: 3 larger center berries and 12 smaller corner berries, for 15 berries altogether.

Checkpoint: The three center berries should match one another, and the twelve smaller corner berries should match one another. Keep each group consistent so the finished decoration looks balanced.

Don't sew a berry on with just one stitch through the middle. Give each one several little stitches around its base so it stays where you put it. There are fifteen berries on this square, and you'll want every one of them firmly attached.

Crochet the Red Christmas Bow

That big red bow brings the whole center together. It goes right below the three berries, spreading out over the crossed candy canes. I'd make the loops and tails separately, lay them out where they're going to sit, and make sure I like the shape before sewing them together.

Use red worsted-weight yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Bow Loops: Make Two

Use red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 29.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining chain. (28 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (28 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (28 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (28 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch sewing tail.

Fold the short ends together to form a rounded ribbon loop. Sew the short ends together with the yarn tail, keeping the folded outer end rounded rather than sharply creased.

Size checkpoint: Aim for a folded loop that projects approximately 2 to 2 1/2 inches outward from its joined ends. This is a target based on the proportions of the finished example, not a measured sample. Check the first loop against the candy canes and granny square before making the second. If necessary, adjust the foundation length and make both loops identically.

Make the second loop the same way.

Bow Tails: Make Two

Foundation: Ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining chain. (14 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (14 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (14 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail at the end that will sit under the center of the bow.

Make the second tail the same way.

Lay the two ribbon tails behind the bow loops, with one end of each tail meeting at the center. Angle the free ends outward beneath the loops, letting only a small portion of each tail show along the lower outer edges. The tails should stay close to the bow rather than hanging down over the striped candy canes.

Bow Center Wrap: Make One

Foundation: Ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining chain. (12 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (12 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. (12 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail approximately 12 inches long.

Fit checkpoint: Place the two bow loops and two ribbon tails together at the center. Wrap the strip across the front, around the gathered pieces, and toward the back. The ends should meet behind the bow without squeezing the loops flat or pulling the ribbon tails out of position. Check the fit before sewing the ends together.

Put the Bow Together

Place the two loops beside each other with their seamed ends meeting in the middle. Position one ribbon tail behind each loop, with the free end extending outward beneath that loop. Let the outer tips show just a little below the loops, keeping the overall bow broad and compact.

Use the yarn tails to sew the five bow pieces together at their centers. Wrap the short center strip over the meeting point and around the back. Sew its ends together on the back of the bow.

Keep the bow fairly flat where it attaches to the candy canes. The loops can stand up a little, but the center shouldn't become a hard, bulky knot.

Checkpoint: Both loops should appear balanced, with the center wrap holding them together and the ribbon tails tucked close beneath them. The bow should spread sideways below the three berries without covering the striped lower sections of the candy canes.

Make Four Miniature Holly-and-Berry Corner Emblems

Those little holly decorations in the corners help tie the whole square together. Each one has two small green leaves and three red berries. We'll use the berries you've already made.

Make eight small leaves in all, two for each corner.

Small Holly Leaf: Make Eight

Use sage-green yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 7.

First side: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc across the foundation chain. (6 sts)

Ch 1. Rotate the work so you can crochet into the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain.

Second side: Work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc along the opposite side. (6 sts)

At the pointed end, ch 2 and sl st into the first of those two chains to make a small pointed tip. Sl st into the nearest sc to secure it.

Leaf checkpoint: Each miniature leaf has 12 main stitches, a narrow pointed end, and relatively smooth outer edges. The foundation chain forms a center line along the leaf. Lay the leaf flat without pulling on its sewing tail.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

Count: 12 worked stitches around the two long sides of each small leaf, excluding the tip and turning chains.

Repeat until you have eight matching leaves.

Arrange the Four Emblems

For each corner, arrange two leaves so their bases touch and their tips point away from each other. Set three red berries over the place where the leaves meet.

Use this arrangement for all four corners:

• Top left: One leaf points upward and slightly toward the center of the square. The other points diagonally downward and left.
• Top right: Mirror the top-left arrangement, with one leaf pointing upward and inward and the other downward and right.
• Bottom left: One leaf points upward and the other points right, toward the center of the square.
• Bottom right: Mirror the bottom-left arrangement, with one leaf pointing upward and the other pointing left, toward the center.

Keep the emblems inside the ivory portion of the square. Leave at least one complete granny cluster between the decorations and the green outer border whenever your square size allows.

I'd arrange all four groups before sewing down any of them. It's much easier to correct an uneven corner while everything is still loose.

Assemble and Attach the Candy Cane Appliqués

Now we can put the whole design together. Lay your granny square flat with the right side facing up and arrange all the pieces before you begin sewing.

Before you pick up the needle, make sure the whole arrangement looks balanced. Move the candy canes around a little if you need to. Once you start sewing, keep the stitches snug enough to hold everything in place, but don't pull so tightly that the ivory granny square starts bunching up underneath.

Step 1: Mark the Center

Fold the square in half horizontally, then vertically, just long enough to locate the center. Use removable stitch markers to mark that point.

Lay the square flat again. The center crossing of the candy canes will sit close to this mark.

Step 2: Arrange the Two Candy Canes

Place the first candy cane diagonally across the square. Its curved hook should point outward toward the upper left, and its straight end should extend toward the lower right.

Place the second candy cane over the first, crossing near the center. Its hook should point outward toward the upper right, with the straight end extending toward the lower left.

Turn the tubes as needed so the straighter color-change lines sit against the granny square and the smoother sides face upward.

The two hooks should sit at similar heights. Their curved ends face outward and downward, while the straight sections extend below the crossing.

Adjust the position until the candy canes form a balanced arrangement.

Placement checkpoint: On an approximately 12-inch square, aim to keep the raised candy-cane design within a central area around 8 inches across. Leave room for the four corner decorations. These are layout targets, so use the actual finished square as your guide.

Step 3: Secure the First Candy Cane

Thread a blunt yarn needle with yarn matching the section you're attaching.

Begin near the center crossing. Bring the needle up through the back of the granny square, pass it under a stitch bar on the back or lower side of the candy cane, and take it back through the granny square.

Use several small anchoring stitches around the center area, then continue along the underside of the straight section.

Space the attachment points approximately 1/2 inch apart, or closer wherever the tube lifts away from the background. Add stitches at the rounded lower tip and at both ends of the curved hook.

Don't run one long sewing stitch through the full length of the tube. Several short, separate attachment points will hold it more evenly.

Check the square after every few stitches. If the ivory background starts to gather, loosen the last attachment and sew it again without pulling.

Step 4: Attach the Second Candy Cane

Position the second candy cane over the first at the marked crossing.

Secure it in the same way, beginning near the center and working outward along the straight section and curved hook.

Where the two candy canes overlap, take several stitches through their touching surfaces to keep them from shifting. Don't use the center bow as the only thing holding them together.

Turn the square over and check the back. The sewing yarn should hold the raised pieces without drawing the granny clusters into tight little bunches.

Step 5: Attach the Large Holly Leaves

Place the two large holly leaves over the center crossing. The bases should meet beneath the berry group, with one pointed leaf extending left and the other extending right.

Sew along the bases and center lines of the leaves. Add a few small stitches around their outer edges so the points remain in place while leaving the raised crochet texture visible.

Step 6: Position the Red Bow

Place the finished bow directly beneath the three-berry area. Arrange the two broad loops so they extend left and right across the candy-cane crossing. Keep the ribbon tails tucked behind the loops, with only their outer tips showing.

Sew through the back of the center wrap and the bases of both ribbon tails. Add a few small stitches underneath each loop so the bow doesn't swing or twist.

The bow should cover part of the candy-cane crossing without hiding the striped lower sections.

Step 7: Attach the Three Center Berries

Arrange three red berries over the center of the holly leaves and just above the bow.

Place one berry at the top and two directly beneath it, forming a small triangle.

Using each berry's sewing tail, sew through several stitches around its base and into the underlying crochet. Make at least three spaced attachment points around each berry rather than passing the yarn through only one spot.

Secure the yarn on the back of the work and weave it through several nearby stitches before trimming.

Step 8: Attach the Corner Holly Emblems

Arrange one small holly emblem in each corner of the square.

Begin by sewing the two leaves down at their bases and along their center lines. Add a stitch near each tip to stop it from folding upward.

Position the three red berries over the meeting point of the leaves. Sew each berry down separately, using several small stitches through its base.

Repeat for all four corners.

Step 9: Check the Entire Square

Lay the finished square on a flat table and look at it from above.

Check that:

• The two hooks curve outward in opposite directions.
• The lower straight sections form a balanced crossed arrangement.
• The holly leaves spread evenly to the left and right.
• The three center berries sit above the red bow.
• All four corner emblems have matching arrangements.
• The green border remains flat and ready for joining.
• The granny-square background hasn't gathered beneath the appliqués.

Gently lift the square by its corners. If any part of a candy cane pulls away from the background, add another concealed attachment stitch before finishing.

Don't rely on the center decoration alone to keep the stuffed candy canes in place.

Finishing and Blocking the Christmas Granny Square

Once everything is attached, take a few minutes to check the edges and the backs of the decorations. It's easier to fix a loose stitch now than after you've joined the square into a blanket.

Weave In the Remaining Yarn Ends

Turn the square over and thread each remaining yarn tail onto a blunt needle.

Weave the tail through several neighboring stitches on the wrong side, change direction, and weave back through another short section. Trim the yarn after it's secure.

For the stuffed candy canes, keep the remaining ends tucked inside the tubes whenever possible. Avoid pulling a finishing tail tightly through the stuffing, which can make a dent in the rounded shape.

Block the Granny Square

If the background needs blocking, dampen the flat granny-square fabric lightly without soaking the stuffed candy canes.

Lay the square on a blocking mat with the right side facing up. Arrange the four corners into a square and pin the outer border to the intended measurements.

Keep the pins away from the raised berries and candy canes.

Allow the square to dry completely before removing the pins. Follow the yarn manufacturer's care instructions, especially if you're using acrylic yarn.

Blocking can tidy up the edges, but it won't turn a much smaller square into one that matches the rest of your blanket. If the measurements are noticeably different, fix the round count or gauge before you join everything together.

Final Measurements

Measure the finished square across its middle in both directions and record those measurements.

Then check the height of the raised decorations. The candy canes should feel lightly padded and flexible, not hard or tightly filled.

Final checkpoint: The square should lie flat, the green border should remain even, and none of the decorations should pull away when you gently handle the square. Remove every temporary stitch marker and blocking pin before using or joining the square.

If the square is going into a throw that will be used regularly, check the appliqué attachments again after the first wash. Follow the yarn and fiberfill care instructions.

Use the Candy Cane Granny Square in a Christmas Blanket

I like the idea of placing this candy cane square between the gingerbread and elf designs. The red-and-ivory stripes give your eye a little break from the faces and clothing, while the holly and green border tie everything together.

For a Christmas throw, you can alternate the candy cane squares with gingerbread crochet designs and other holiday motifs from the Christmas granny square collection.

I'd keep the same ivory background and green outer border on every square. You can change the center motifs without making the finished blanket look like several unrelated projects sewn together.

Matching Your Existing Squares

Before making several candy cane squares, measure a finished gingerbread or elf square.

The elf square is worked differently from this appliqué-based candy cane square, so don't try to match them by counting granny rounds. Match their finished width, height, and joining edges instead.

The larger elf square has an expected finished size of approximately 11 to 13 inches. The separate Christmas granny-square blanket collection also includes an eight-inch base, so check which size you're using before mixing patterns.

If your candy cane square needs another round, undo the green border, add an ivory granny round, and finish with one green round again. Each additional round adds four granny clusters. If the square is too large, adjust the ivory rounds or your gauge rather than stretching the companion squares.

Line up the corners before sewing an elf square to a candy cane square. Even if they're the same size, the stitches along their edges may not line up exactly. That's all right. Just spread the joining stitches evenly instead of pulling one side tight to make every stitch match. The finished seam should lie flat.

Joining the Squares

Arrange the completed squares on a flat surface before joining them. Turn any square that needs adjusting so the motifs all face the direction you want.

For a simple sewn join, place two squares right sides together with their corner spaces aligned.

For two candy cane squares made with the standard nine-round background, each outside edge has nine granny clusters, including the clusters beside both corners. That's 27 dc stitch tops and eight ch-1 spaces between the corner ch-2 spaces.

Using a blunt yarn needle and matching yarn, begin in the first corner ch-2 space. Sew through the corresponding stitch loops of the 27 dc stitches and through the matching eight ch-1 spaces, ending at the next corner ch-2 space. Keep the sewing tension even and check that the seam lies flat.

If you're joining the candy cane square to an integrated elf square or another differently constructed motif, the outer stitch counts may not match. Align the corners first, then distribute the sewing stitches evenly along both edges. Don't force an extra stitch into every unmatched loop or pull either edge shorter to make the counts agree.

Open the joined squares and check that the seam lies flat. Repeat for the remaining squares, joining them into rows before sewing the rows together.

A slip-stitch or single-crochet join is another option, but use the same method throughout the blanket.

I'd keep the candy cane squares distributed evenly through the layout rather than grouping all of them together. Their raised stripes and red bows make good accents between the gingerbread and elf motifs.

One last thing: This is a decorative Christmas throw with raised pieces and small sewn-on details. It isn't intended for an infant's crib or sleep space.

Candy Cane Granny Square Pattern FAQs

Do I have to stuff the candy canes?

For the raised appearance shown in the finished example, yes, but only lightly. A few small pinches of polyester fiberfill are enough to give the tubes a rounded shape. Don't pack them tightly.

Can I make the candy canes without wire?

Yes. The pattern uses balanced increases and decreases along the curved section, followed by concealed shaping stitches. No wire or rigid insert is included. The exact hook curvature still needs to be confirmed on a crocheted sample.

Why do the candy canes have twelve stitches around?

The twelve-stitch circumference gives us room for a rounded tube without making it too wide for the granny square. Every shaping decrease is balanced by an increase, so the stitch total stays the same until the final closing round.

Can I make this granny square without the corner holly decorations?

Yes, although the four corner emblems are part of the finished example shown here. You can leave them off for a simpler square, especially if you're making a large number of squares for a blanket.

Can I use different yarn colors?

Of course. Traditional red-and-ivory candy canes look especially nice with the green holly, but you could use pink and ivory or another Christmas color combination. I'd keep the yarn weight consistent so the candy canes remain the same size.

How do I make the candy cane square match my gingerbread and elf squares?

Use the same yarn weight, background hook, granny-round count, and joining border wherever possible. Measure the finished squares before attaching the raised decorations. If the backgrounds don't match, adjust their round counts or gauge before joining them.

Is this pattern suitable for a baby blanket?

I'd use this version for a decorative Christmas throw or keepsake instead. The stuffed candy canes, raised berries, and other attached pieces aren't appropriate for an infant sleep blanket.

Can I wash the finished square?

Check the care instructions for your yarn and fiberfill. Wash gently and avoid twisting or wringing the raised decorations. After washing, reshape the candy-cane hooks and lay the square flat to dry if the materials allow it.

Where can I find more Christmas crochet patterns?

You'll find other holiday motifs in my free Christmas granny square patterns collection. The candy cane square works especially well alongside gingerbread, elf, and Christmas present designs.