Fancy Christmas Gift Granny Square Pattern with 3D Bow

By Jan Bay

This is my free fancy Christmas gift granny square pattern.   There will be a less elegant pattern for those who prefer their blankets to be more understated as well.  But this one  features a bright red present wrapped with a raised gold ribbon, an oversized crocheted bow and little holly berries tucked into the center. White embroidered snowflakes decorate the package, while an ivory granny square background and evergreen border give everything a finished Christmas look. It's a fun design for a holiday blanket, decorative pillow or handmade Christmas project, and I'll walk you through making the separate pieces and putting them together.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Fancy Christmas Gift Granny Square Pattern: Finished Size and Skill Level

This fancy Christmas gift granny square pattern has a little more going on than a plain granny square, but you can make it one piece at a time. Start with the ivory square, add the red present, and save that big gold bow for the finishing touches.

The gift is made separately and sewn onto the background. That means you won't have to work complicated color changes into the granny stitches. The ribbon, holly and snowflakes are separate details, too.

Finished size: Approximately 8 x 8 inches after blocking, provided you meet the square gauge.

Skill level: Intermediate. The granny square itself is beginner-friendly. The shaped ribbon loops, raised gift box and little holly pieces take more care.

Construction: Seven joined granny rounds, one decorative slip-stitch edging, a lightly padded gift box, a separate lid, five gold ribbon pieces, six holly leaves, nine berries and two embroidered snowflakes.

Important size note: This pattern has been worked out from stitch counts and expected gauge. The measurements are calculated targets, not measurements from a physically completed sample. Make one square and check the fit of the gift pieces before making a whole set.

The finished example has several raised decorations. I'd use this version for a Christmas pillow, wall hanging or decorative throw. If you're planning a blanket for a baby, see the notes about dimensional decorations in the finishing section.

Yarn and Supplies for the Christmas Gift Granny Square

I'd choose smooth worsted-weight yarn for this design. You want to see the individual stitches in the gold ribbon, and a fuzzy yarn would hide quite a bit of that detail.

Yarn: Medium-weight #4 yarn in the following colors:

• Warm ivory: Approximately 35 to 45 yards for the granny square background.
• Deep evergreen: Approximately 8 to 12 yards for the outer granny round.
• Holly green: Approximately 3 to 5 yards in a slightly lighter green for the six pointed holly leaves.
• Cranberry red: Approximately 30 to 40 yards for the gift, lid and berries.
• Antique gold: Approximately 20 to 30 yards for the ribbon, bow and outside trim.
• White or winter ivory: Approximately 2 to 3 yards for the embroidered snowflakes.

These are planning allowances rather than yarn amounts weighed from a finished sample. Your total will depend on the yarn, gauge and how much you use for sewing.

Other supplies:

• 5 mm crochet hook for the granny square.
• 4 mm crochet hook for the gift, ribbon, holly and berries.
• 5.5 mm crochet hook for the decorative gold slip-stitch edging.
• Tapestry needle with a large eye.
• Scissors.
• Stitch markers.
• A very small amount of polyester fiberfill or matching yarn scraps for the raised gift and berries.
• Rust-proof blocking pins and a clean blocking surface.

You don't need to buy several whole skeins just for one square if you already have suitable yarn in your stash. Keep the yarn weights consistent, though. Mixing very thick ribbon yarn with ordinary worsted-weight background yarn will change the proportions.

I'd also keep the gold yarn smooth rather than using a stiff metallic thread. A regular antique-gold yarn gives the bow more body without making the loops difficult to shape.

Gauge and Measurements Before You Start

Let's check the measurements before you make all those little decorations. The square and the gift use different hooks, so you'll need to check both.

Granny Square Gauge

Using the 5 mm hook and worsted-weight yarn, the seven-round foundation should finish near 8 inches across after blocking.

Use these expected checkpoints:

• After Round 4: approximately 4.4 to 4.6 inches across.
• After Round 6: approximately 6.6 to 6.9 inches across.
• After Round 7: approximately 7.7 to 8.1 inches across.
• After decorative gold edging and blocking: aim for approximately 8 inches.

If the square is considerably smaller, try a 5.5 mm hook. If it's too large, try a 4.5 mm hook. Keep the original stitch counts.

Gift and Ribbon Gauge

With the 4 mm hook, aim for approximately 18 single crochet stitches and 22 single crochet rows over 4 inches, measured on an ordinary flat swatch.

At that gauge, the expected measurements are:

• Red gift body: approximately 4 2/3 inches wide and 3 1/8 inches tall, before joining.
• Red lid: approximately 5 1/8 inches wide and 7/8 inch tall.
• Vertical gold ribbon: approximately 1 1/8 inches wide and 3 3/4 inches long.
• Each bow-loop strip: approximately 1 1/8 inches wide and 3 5/8 inches long before folding.
• Each tapered bow tail: approximately 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 inches long.

First fitting check: Lay the finished red body on the blocked ivory square. The package should leave visible ivory on both sides and enough space above it for the bow. Don't sew anything down until you've checked that.

If your red package is too wide for the ivory center, use a smaller hook for the red pieces. Recheck the stitch gauge rather than removing stitches from the package.

Crochet Abbreviations and Special Stitches

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms throughout.

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• st: Stitch
• sp: Space
• rnd: Round
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side
• BLO: Back loop only
• sc2tog: Single crochet two stitches together

Granny group: Three double crochet stitches worked into the same space.

Corner group: Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into one corner space.

sc2tog: Insert the hook into the next stitch and draw up a loop. Insert the hook into the following stitch and draw up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook. Two stitches have become one.

Picot used for the holly leaves: Ch 2, then slip stitch into the first of those two chains. This makes a small pointed bump along the leaf edge.

Turning chains: Ch 1 at the beginning of single crochet rows. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. Ch 3 at the beginning of a granny round counts as the first double crochet.

If you need to check a stitch name, the Craft Yarn Council's crochet abbreviations reference is a helpful place to look.

Crochet the Ivory Granny Square Base with Evergreen Border

We're starting with the same seven-round granny construction used in the coordinating Christmas granny square blanket. That's important if you're planning to mix this gift square with the other Christmas designs.

Rounds 1 through 6 are ivory. Round 7 is evergreen. After that, we'll add a narrow gold edge without changing the number of granny groups.

Ivory Granny Square: Rounds 1 Through 6

Round 1: With ivory yarn and the 5 mm hook, ch 4. Join with a sl st in the first chain to form a ring. Ch 3, work 2 dc into the ring, then ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2) into the ring three more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Count: Four 3-dc groups and four ch-2 corner spaces. Total: 12 dc.

Round 2: Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the first corner ch-2 space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1. In each of the next three corner spaces, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Count: Eight granny groups, 24 dc, four ch-2 corners and four side ch-1 spaces.

Round 3: Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the first corner ch-2 space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in the one side ch-1 space before the next corner. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1. Repeat the side-space and corner instructions around the remaining sides, working one granny group in every side ch-1 space. Join to the beginning ch-3.

Count: Twelve granny groups, 36 dc, four corner spaces and eight side ch-1 spaces.

Round 4: Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the first corner ch-2 space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the two side ch-1 spaces before the next corner. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1. Repeat around all four sides, filling every available side ch-1 space. Join to the beginning ch-3.

Count: Sixteen granny groups, 48 dc, four corner spaces and twelve side ch-1 spaces.

Round 5: Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the first corner space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the three side ch-1 spaces before the next corner. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1. Repeat around all four sides and join.

Count: Twenty granny groups, 60 dc, four corner spaces and sixteen side ch-1 spaces.

Round 6: Sl st across the next 2 dc and into the first corner space. Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the four side ch-1 spaces before the next corner. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in that corner, then ch 1. Repeat around all four sides and join.

Count: Twenty-four granny groups, 72 dc, four corner spaces and twenty side ch-1 spaces.

Fasten off ivory yarn and weave the end into the wrong side.

Checkpoint: The square should have six granny groups along each side, counting the corner groups. Lay it flat and check that all four corners are forming properly before adding evergreen.

Round 7: Evergreen Granny Border

Join evergreen yarn in any corner ch-2 space, with the right side facing you.

Round 7: Ch 3, work 2 dc in the same corner, ch 2, then work 3 dc in that corner. Ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the five side ch-1 spaces before the next corner. In the next corner work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then ch 1. Repeat this method around all four sides. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Count: Twenty-eight granny groups, 84 dc, twenty-four side ch-1 spaces and four corner ch-2 spaces.

Fasten off evergreen yarn and weave in the end.

Each side now has seven granny groups and six spaces between neighboring groups. Don't add an eighth granny round. We're keeping the foundation compatible with the seven-round squares in the Christmas blanket collection.

Decorative Gold Outside Edging

Switch to antique-gold yarn and the 5.5 mm hook. This edging is a narrow line of slip stitches rather than another tall crochet round.

With the right side facing, join gold yarn in any corner ch-2 space.

Gold edging: Work 2 sl st into the starting corner ch-2 space. Along the first side, work 1 sl st into the top of each of the 21 dc and 1 sl st into each of the six side ch-1 spaces, following their order along the edge. Work 2 sl st into the next corner ch-2 space.

Continue around the next two sides in the same way, working 1 sl st into each of the 21 dc tops and six side ch-1 spaces, followed by 2 sl st in each corner.

Along the fourth side, work 1 sl st into each of the 21 dc tops and six side ch-1 spaces. Stop when you reach the starting corner. Do not work another pair of corner stitches. Join to the first gold sl st.

Count: 84 slip stitches over the double crochet stitches, 24 over the side chain spaces and 8 in the four corners. Total: 116 gold slip stitches.

Keep those slip stitches loose. I'd rather see a slightly relaxed gold edge than one that pulls all four corners inward. If it begins to gather, loosen your tension or use a larger hook for this decorative round.

Fasten off and weave the gold tail into the back of the evergreen stitches.

Joining note: The seven-round evergreen foundation remains underneath the decorative gold edge. If you join this square to another seven-round granny square, align the original Round 7 groups, chain spaces and corners. Work the seam through accessible loops of Round 7, behind the gold trim, rather than counting the gold slip stitches as a new granny round.

Block the square gently to its intended measurement and let it dry before attaching the gift. Keep the edges straight and the corners square. You don't need to stretch it.

Make the Raised Red Christmas Gift Box and Separate Lid

Now for the present itself. We'll make two matching red rectangles, embroider the front one, and sew them together with just enough filling to give the package a little lift.

The separate lid is slightly wider than the box. Those little overhanging ends are worth keeping because they help the present look like an actual wrapped gift instead of an ordinary red rectangle.

Red Gift Body: Make Two Panels

Use cranberry yarn and the 4 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 22. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in every remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 21 sc.

Rows 2 through 16: Work 1 sc in each of the 21 stitches across. Ch 1 and turn after every row.

Count: 21 sc per row.

Row 17: Work 1 sc in each stitch across. Do not add a turning chain.

Count: 21 sc.

Fasten off the first panel, leaving a long red tail for sewing. Make a second identical panel.

You should have two rectangles, each 21 stitches wide and 17 rows tall.

Use the panel with the neater-looking right side for the front. Set that panel aside for the snowflake embroidery before joining the pieces.

Size check: At the specified gauge, each panel should measure approximately 4 2/3 inches wide and 3 1/8 inches tall. Both rectangles should match closely. If one is noticeably larger, correct that before joining them.

Separate Red Gift Lid

The lid is a single crocheted rectangle that sits over the upper portion of the gift. It doesn't need stuffing because the doubled fabric beneath it will already give the top of the package some shape.

Continue with cranberry yarn and the 4 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 24. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in each remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 23 sc.

Rows 2 through 4: Work 1 sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn after every row.

Count: 23 sc per row.

Row 5: Work 1 sc in each stitch across.

Count: 23 sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attachment.

Expected size: Approximately 5 1/8 inches wide and 7/8 inch tall.

The lid should extend roughly 1/4 inch beyond each side of the gift body at this gauge. If the overhang looks a little uneven before sewing, adjust its position rather than stretching the red fabric.

Keep the lid separate for now. We'll attach it after joining the padded gift panels so it can overlap the body and form a visible upper edge.

Construction checkpoint: Before going on, you should have two red 21-stitch by 17-row body panels and one red 23-stitch by 5-row lid. No pieces should be joined yet.

Crochet the Gold Ribbon for the Christmas Package

The long ribbon runs straight down the middle of the present. It's a separate strip, so you can position it exactly where you want it instead of trying to change colors while crocheting the red package.

Use antique-gold yarn and the 4 mm hook.

Vertical Gold Ribbon

Row 1: Ch 6. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in each remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 5 sc.

Rows 2 through 20: Work 1 sc in the BLO of each of the five stitches. Ch 1 and turn after every row.

Count: 5 sc per row.

Row 21: Work 1 sc in the BLO of each stitch across.

Count: 5 sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

The BLO stitches give the ribbon narrow ridges across its surface. Keep the strip relaxed while you work. If you crochet these rows too tightly, the ribbon may curl into a tube rather than lie neatly over the red present.

Expected measurement: Approximately 1 1/8 inches wide and 3 3/4 inches long.

Lay the ribbon over the red body and separate lid. It needs to reach from just beneath the bow down to the bottom of the gift, with the upper end hidden under the bow center.

Don't attach it yet. We'll position the lid first, then secure the ribbon down the middle.

Make the Oversized 3D Christmas Bow

That big gold bow is what makes this gift package different from a simple Christmas present square. The two open loops stand above the lid, while the tapered ribbon ends drape over the upper corners of the box.

We're making the bow from four separate pieces: two matching loops and two matching tails. The holly berries will cover the center where everything meets.

Gold Bow Loops: Make Two

With antique-gold yarn and the 4 mm hook:

Row 1: Ch 6. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in each remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 5 sc.

Rows 2 through 19: Work 1 sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn after every row.

Count: 5 sc per row.

Row 20: Work 1 sc in each stitch across.

Count: 5 sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Make the second strip exactly the same way.

Each strip should be approximately 1 1/8 inches wide and 3 5/8 inches long before folding.

Shape Each Gold Loop

Lay the first gold strip flat with its right side facing up and its long edges running horizontally.

Bring the two short ends together, keeping the right side of the strip facing outward. Use the long yarn tail to whipstitch the five stitches at one short end to the five corresponding foundation stitches at the other end.

You'll now have a continuous ring of crocheted fabric.

Flatten only the joined end of the ring between your fingers. Leave the opposite end rounded and open. The loop should form a hollow oval with the seam at its narrow end.

Take two small stitches through the joined end to pinch it together. Keep the rounded end open so the loop has some height.

Shape the second loop in the same way.

When the bow is assembled, one loop will point toward the upper left and the other toward the upper right. Keep their stitched seams together at the center.

Bow-loop checkpoint: The two loops should be about the same size, with visible open centers. If a loop collapses, spread the rounded end with your fingers. Don't pack it with stuffing. The structure comes from the folded crocheted fabric.

Tapered Gold Ribbon Tails: Make Two

Use the same antique-gold yarn and 4 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 6. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and 1 sc in each remaining chain. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 5 sc.

Rows 2 through 8: Work 1 sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn after every row.

Count: 5 sc per row.

Row 9: Sc2tog over the first two stitches, work 1 sc in the center stitch, then sc2tog over the final two stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Count: 3 sc.

Row 10: Work sc3tog across the three remaining stitches. To do this, insert the hook into the first stitch and draw up a loop. Repeat in each of the next two stitches, leaving four loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. Do not turn.

Count: 1 sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Make the second tail the same way.

The narrowing at the bottom gives each ribbon end a gently tapered shape. You don't need a deep V-shaped notch. The ends in the example are rounded and tapered rather than sharply cut.

Arrange the Four Bow Pieces

Place the two bow loops side by side, with their pinched ends touching in the middle. Turn the outer rounded ends upward just a little.

Lay one ribbon tail beneath the center so it points down toward the left side of the gift. Lay the second tail beneath it, pointing down toward the right.

The four pieces should meet underneath the future holly cluster, with both open loops above and both tapered tails below.

Thread a tapestry needle with matching gold yarn. Take several stitches through the pinched ends of both loops and the upper ends of both tails. Pull snugly enough to hold the arrangement, but don't crush the loops.

Fasten off securely on the back of the bow.

Bow checkpoint: You should have two hollow upper loops, two separate lower tails and a central attachment point. The completed bow should spread roughly 3 1/2 to 4 inches across, depending on how widely you open the loops. Check that it fits inside the ivory area of the square.

Set the completed bow aside. We'll sew it over the lid and vertical ribbon once the red package is attached to the square.

Crochet the Holly Leaves and Christmas Berries

There are three holly clusters on the finished square. One sits right in the middle of the gold bow, one decorates the upper left corner, and the third goes in the lower right corner.

Each cluster has two pointed holly leaves and three little red berries. That means you'll make six leaves and nine berries altogether.

The leaves are worked around a short foundation chain, with tiny picots along the edges. Those pointed edges are what keep them looking like holly instead of ordinary oval leaves.

Pointed Crochet Holly Leaves: Make Six

Use the 4 mm hook and green worsted-weight yarn. A slightly lighter holly green than the evergreen border will give the leaves more contrast, as shown in the example. You can also use the evergreen yarn from the main supply list.

Step 1: Ch 8.

Step 2, first side: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 sl st in the first chain, 1 sc in the next, 1 hdc in the next, 1 dc in the next, 1 hdc in the next, 1 sc in the next, and 1 sl st in the final chain.

As you work this side, make a small picot immediately after completing the third stitch (hdc) and another immediately after the fourth stitch (dc). To make each picot, ch 2 and sl st into the first of those two chains, then continue with the next stitch of the leaf.

Count: Seven stitches along the first side, plus two picots.

Step 3, opposite side: Ch 1 and rotate the work to reach the unused loops on the opposite side of the original foundation chain. Working back toward the pointed end, make 1 sl st in the bottom foundation chain, 1 sc in the next, 1 hdc in the next, 1 dc in the next, 1 hdc in the next, 1 sc in the next, and 1 sl st in the final foundation chain.

Make a picot after the third stitch and another after the fourth stitch on this side, just as you did on the first side.

Join with a sl st to the first slip stitch at the pointed end.

Final count: Fourteen stitches around the foundation chain, with four small picots. The turning chain and picot chains are not included in the fourteen-stitch count.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Make five more leaves in the same way.

Leaf checkpoint: Each leaf should have a narrow tip and small points along its outer edges. The picots should show on both sides rather than curling underneath.

Use your fingers to spread the picots and flatten the leaf. Don't pull hard on the edges. If one picot is larger than the others, gently adjust that little point before fastening the leaf to the project.

Little Red Crochet Berries: Make Nine

These berries are small crocheted balls rather than beads. Use cranberry yarn and the 4 mm hook.

Work in continuous rounds without joining. A stitch marker will help you keep track of the beginning of each round.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring and pull it closed.

Count: 6 sc.

If you prefer not to use a magic ring, ch 2 and work 6 sc in the second chain from the hook.

Round 2: Work 1 sc in each stitch around.

Count: 6 sc.

Round 3: Work sc2tog three times around.

Count: 3 stitches remaining.

Before closing the berry, tuck in a tiny amount of matching red yarn or fiberfill. You only need enough to round out the shape.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread the tail through the front loops of the three remaining stitches and pull gently to close the opening.

With the tail still threaded through the tapestry needle, pass the needle through the center of the berry from the closed decrease end toward the original magic ring. Bring the needle out through a stitch beside the original ring. This places the sewing tail at the base of the berry, opposite the closed decrease end.

Don't cut off the sewing tail. You'll use it to attach the berry through its base, leaving the rounded decrease end facing outward.

Repeat until you have nine berries.

Berry checkpoint: The berries should be small, rounded and fairly similar in size. If they're turning out much larger than the ones in the example, check the yarn weight and try a smaller hook before making the rest.

Arrange the Three Holly Clusters

Divide the pieces into three groups. Each group needs two leaves and three berries.

Bow cluster: Overlap two leaves near their bases, with their pointed ends facing down and outward. Arrange three berries in a small triangle where the leaves meet. This cluster will cover the center of the gold bow.

Upper left corner: Angle one leaf toward the top edge of the square and the other toward the left side. Place the berries near the overlapping leaf bases.

Lower right corner: Arrange the leaves in the opposite direction, with one pointing toward the right edge and the other toward the lower edge. Place the berries at their meeting point.

Keep the two corner clusters inside the outside gold edging. You don't want the leaves or berries sticking out beyond the finished square, especially if you plan to join several squares together.

Leave the pieces loose until final assembly. It's much easier to adjust their position once the present and bow are attached.

Embroider the Two White Snowflakes on the Gift

The two white snowflakes give the red package its Christmas wrapping-paper look. They're embroidered directly onto the front gift panel, one on each side of the vertical ribbon.

Do this before you join the two red panels. You'll have a much easier time hiding the embroidery ends on the back.

Mark the Snowflake Positions

Lay the front red panel flat with its right side facing up and its foundation edge at the bottom. The panel is 21 stitches wide and 17 rows tall.

Place the vertical gold ribbon loosely down the middle to see which stitches it will cover. The ribbon should cover approximately the central five stitches, leaving room on either side for the snowflakes.

Mark the center of the left snowflake near stitch 5 and row 7, counting upward from the bottom foundation edge of the panel.

Mark the center of the right snowflake near stitch 17 and row 7.

Each snowflake will extend approximately two rows above and below its center. Keep both designs in the lower half of the gift, clear of the red lid and gold ribbon tails.

Check their positions with the gold ribbon in place. Both stars should be visible and roughly level with each other.

Embroider Each Eight-Point Snowflake

Thread the tapestry needle with white or winter-ivory yarn. Leave enough yarn on the wrong side to weave in securely when you're finished.

Step 1: Bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side at the center of the first snowflake.

Step 2: Make a straight stitch upward, ending approximately two crochet rows above the center. Bring the needle back to the center.

Step 3: Make a matching straight stitch downward, ending approximately two rows below the center.

Step 4: Make one horizontal stitch to the left, reaching approximately two crochet stitches from the center. Repeat on the right.

Step 5: Add four shorter diagonal stitches between those first four spokes. Your snowflake should now have eight points radiating from one center.

Step 6: Add a tiny white straight stitch across the end of each spoke to create the little raised dots shown in the example. Keep these stitches short so they don't look like separate beads.

Step 7: Weave the yarn securely into the wrong side of the red panel, passing through several existing stitches.

Embroider the second snowflake in the same way.

Try to keep the spokes close in size. They don't have to be perfect, but one star shouldn't be twice as large as the other.

Final embroidery check: Lay the gold ribbon across the front again. Both complete snowflakes should remain visible on either side, with no spokes disappearing beneath the ribbon.

Once you're happy with them, the front panel is ready to be joined to the back.

Assemble and Finish the Christmas Gift Granny Square

You've made all the pieces. Now we'll put them together in the right order so the lid stays raised, the ribbon runs straight down the package, and the gold bow doesn't flop forward.

I'd lay everything out on the blocked square first. It's worth a few extra minutes because moving a loose bow is much easier than taking out several rows of sewing.

Step 1: Join the Two Red Gift Panels

Place the front and back gift panels together with their wrong sides touching. The embroidered snowflakes should face outward.

Match all four corners. Check that the panels have the same orientation, with 21 stitches across the top and bottom and 17 rows along each side.

Thread the tapestry needle with cranberry yarn.

Beginning at one upper corner, whipstitch the two panels together along the first short side, across the bottom and up the opposite side. Catch corresponding edge loops on both layers.

Continue across the top edge, leaving an opening about 1 1/2 inches wide.

Place a very thin layer of fiberfill or matching red yarn scraps between the panels. Spread the filling across the center rather than packing it into one lump.

Close the remaining opening with matching whipstitches.

The finished piece should look like a lightly raised rectangular package, not a tightly stuffed cushion.

Checkpoint: The body should still measure close to its original width and height, with straight edges and no large bulge in the center. If the filling pushes the edges outward or distorts the embroidery, remove some before closing the seam.

Step 2: Attach the Separate Red Lid

Lay the finished gift body upright with the embroidered side facing you.

Place the red lid horizontally across the top. Center it so its ends extend evenly beyond the two sides of the gift body.

Overlap approximately the lower two rows of the lid onto the upper two rows of the body. The other three lid rows should extend above the body to form the raised top of the gift.

Using the long red sewing tail, stitch the overlapping portion of the lid to the front gift panel. Secure its lower edge and both ends where they meet the gift body.

Take small stitches through the lid and the front layer of the gift body. Don't pull the thread through the back panel or flatten the stuffing.

Leave the upper edge of the lid available for stitching to the granny-square background during final placement. That will keep the overhanging portion supported.

Lid checkpoint: The lid should be centered, its lower edge should form a visible horizontal line, and its overhanging ends should be approximately equal.

Step 3: Position the Package on the Granny Square

Lay the blocked ivory granny square right side up, with one corner pointing to each corner of your work surface.

Place the red package in the middle, with its bottom edge approximately 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches above the bottom outside edge of the square.

Center the gift from left to right. The lid should remain below the upper evergreen border, leaving space for the large bow.

Pin or temporarily tack the package in place.

Using cranberry yarn, sew the back perimeter of the gift body to the ivory granny square. Work through the back panel's outer edge loops and the underlying ivory stitches.

Take stitches along all four sides, keeping the gift straight. Avoid sewing through the decorative front panel unless a small hidden stitch is needed to keep the edge in position.

Secure the raised upper edge of the red lid to the ivory background with small red stitches. Add a few hidden stitches at its corners so it stays in place.

Fasten off and weave the sewing tails into the wrong side.

Placement check: The package should be centered, with its lower edge level and its red lid clearly visible above the body. You should still see ivory around the sides and bottom.

Step 4: Sew Down the Vertical Gold Ribbon

Lay the long gold ribbon down the center of the red gift.

Position the upper end near the top of the red lid. Run the strip straight down the front until it reaches the lower edge of the package.

Fold a small amount of excess length behind either end if needed. Don't stretch the ribbon to make it fit.

Using matching gold yarn, stitch along both long edges of the ribbon. Take small stitches approximately every two or three rows, adding more wherever the ribbon lifts away from the red package.

Secure the lower end at the bottom of the gift and the upper end against the red lid.

Keep the ribbon centered between the two embroidered snowflakes.

Checkpoint: The vertical ribbon should look straight, with both snowflakes fully visible. It shouldn't pull the red gift inward or make the bottom edge curl.

Step 5: Attach the Oversized Gold Bow

Place the completed gold bow near the upper center of the gift, where the vertical ribbon meets the lid.

Spread the two hollow loops toward the upper left and upper right. The outer ends of the loops should remain inside the ivory portion of the granny square.

Arrange the two tapered ribbon tails so they angle downward over the left and right portions of the red lid.

Thread a tapestry needle with gold yarn.

Sew the pinched middle of the bow through the upper end of the vertical ribbon and the red lid beneath it. Make several small stitches through the layers to keep the bow from shifting.

Add one or two hidden stitches near the lower inner edge of each bow loop, attaching it to the ivory background or the lid where it naturally touches. Leave the upper rounded portions open.

Secure the two ribbon tails with small stitches near their upper ends. Add a hidden stitch partway down each tail if needed to keep it in its intended curved position.

Don't sew the entire length of the loops flat. The open shape is an important part of the finished design.

Bow checkpoint: Viewed from the front, you should see two open gold loops, two gently tapered ribbon tails and the vertical gold ribbon descending from the center.

Step 6: Add the Holly Cluster to the Bow

Take two holly leaves and lay them over the center of the gold bow. Angle their tips down and outward, with the leaf bases touching in the middle.

Sew the leaf bases to the bow using green yarn. Add a few smaller stitches along the center of each leaf to keep the points facing in the intended direction.

Arrange three red berries in a tight triangular cluster over the center of the leaves.

Sew each berry through its crocheted base to the bow and leaf fabric underneath. Make several passes through the underlying stitches before weaving in the tail.

Pull gently on each berry to confirm that it is attached firmly. The berries should sit close together without dangling from loose strands.

The berry cluster should cover the joining stitches at the center of the bow.

Step 7: Attach the Upper Left Holly Decoration

Take two more holly leaves and three berries.

Lay the leaves inside the upper left corner of the granny square. One leaf should point generally upward and the other toward the left side.

Keep the leaf tips inside the gold outside edging.

Using green yarn, sew the bases and a short section of each leaf to the underlying granny stitches.

Arrange the three berries over the joined bases. Sew them down individually, working through the berry bases and the crochet fabric underneath.

Check that the cluster isn't pulling the corner inward.

Step 8: Attach the Lower Right Holly Decoration

Use the final two holly leaves and three berries.

Position them in the lower right corner of the square, with their tips pointing generally outward toward the right and lower edges.

Arrange the berries where the leaves overlap.

Sew the leaves and berries in place using the same method as the upper left cluster.

The two corner decorations should balance each other diagonally, just as they do in the finished example.

Step 9: Final Stitching and Weaving In Ends

Turn the square over and check the wrong side.

Remove any temporary positioning pins, tacking threads and stitch markers. Check around the red package, both holly corners and the raised bow.

Weave every remaining yarn tail through several neighboring stitches. Change direction at least once before trimming each tail. Avoid leaving loops of yarn hanging behind the package or holly decorations.

Look closely at the red lid, the vertical ribbon and the bow center. Add hidden securing stitches anywhere a piece is lifting away or moving more than intended.

Check each berry individually. The small pieces must be firmly attached, particularly if the finished project may be handled often.

Step 10: Final Blocking and Shaping

Lay the square on a clean blocking surface with the right side facing up.

Gently shape the ivory and evergreen foundation back into a square. Pin the four corners if needed, keeping the gold edge straight.

Don't stretch the package or flatten the bow.

If the yarn needs a little moisture to settle, lightly dampen the background according to the yarn manufacturer's care instructions. Keep the padded red gift and bow as dry as practical so their shapes don't collapse.

Allow everything to dry completely. Remove all blocking pins before lifting the square from the blocking surface. Check that no pins or temporary markers remain in the finished project.

Fluff the two bow loops with your fingers and arrange the ribbon tails. Check the holly leaves one last time so their points remain visible.

Final size: Aim for an approximately 8 x 8 inch foundation square after blocking. The bow and berries will project above the front surface.

Important use note: The dimensional version shown here is intended for decorative projects. For a baby-oriented blanket, choose flatter decoration and avoid small raised pieces that could become detached. Keep decorative pillows and blankets out of an infant's sleep space.

And that's your Christmas present square finished. The big gold bow does most of the decorating, so you don't need to add anything else.

Christmas Gift Granny Square Pattern Tips and Troubleshooting

A few measurements and placement checks will help you avoid having to take apart a nearly finished square.

What If the Gift Package Looks Too Wide?

Measure the red body before sewing it to the background. At the expected gauge, it should be about 4 2/3 inches wide, with the lid extending slightly beyond both sides.

If the red gift covers nearly the entire ivory center, try a smaller hook for the red pieces. Don't shorten the lid by removing stitches without checking the body width first.

What If the Gold Bow Won't Hold Its Shape?

Check how you joined the two short ends of each loop. The joined end should be pinched together while the opposite end stays open and rounded.

A tighter stitch gauge can help a floppy bow, but don't make the loops so stiff that they won't curve.

If necessary, add another hidden stitch underneath each loop where it touches the granny square. I'd try that before adding any stuffing.

What If the Bow Covers the Snowflakes?

Move the tapered gold tails higher onto the lid and angle them toward the outside edges of the package.

Keep the embroidered snowflakes in the lower portion of the red body. The two white designs should be visible on either side of the vertical ribbon.

What If the Outside Gold Edging Curls?

The slip stitches may be too tight. Try the edging with a 6 mm hook if the 5.5 mm hook doesn't give you enough room.

Don't compensate by stretching the finished square aggressively. Correct the edging tension while the work is still easy to adjust.

What If My Holly Leaves Don't Look Pointed?

Check that you worked both picots on each side of the leaf. Spread the four points gently with your fingers before sewing the leaves down.

You can also use a slightly smaller hook for the leaves if the stitches are loose and the picots are disappearing into the fabric.

What If the Raised Gift Looks Lumpy?

Remove some of the filling. The red package only needs a little lift, not the rounded shape of a stuffed toy.

Spread the remaining filling into a thin layer and check that the lower corners still lie flat against the background.

Making More Than One Square

I'd finish and measure one complete square before making a batch. That will tell you whether the red package, bow and holly decorations fit the foundation at your particular gauge.

Once you're happy with the first one, use those same hook sizes and measurements for the remaining squares.

For a decorative blanket, you can alternate these gift squares with plain cranberry or evergreen squares. That gives the big bows room to stand out instead of crowding several raised decorations together.

You can find other motifs to mix with this gift in the free Christmas granny square pattern collection.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Christmas Gift Granny Square

Is this Christmas gift granny square worked in one piece?

No. The background is one seven-round granny square. The red gift, lid, gold ribbon, bow loops, ribbon tails and holly decorations are made separately and sewn onto it. The snowflakes are embroidered onto the front red panel before assembly.

Can I join this square to other Christmas granny squares?

Yes, provided the finished measurements and foundation edges match. This design uses the same seven-round granny structure as the coordinating Christmas blanket. The gold slip-stitch trim is decorative, so join through the underlying seventh-round stitches and spaces rather than treating the gold edging as another granny round.

Do I have to stuff the Christmas gift?

No. You can sew the two red panels together without filling if you prefer a flatter package. The separate lid and raised gold bow will still give the gift some dimension. The lightly padded version is the one intended to match the featured example.

Can I make the bow smaller?

Yes, although that will change the appearance of the featured design. A smaller bow can be made with shorter loop strips, but I'd finish the full-size loops first and compare them with your gift. The oversized bow is one of the main features of this pattern.

Can I change the gift wrapping colors?

Absolutely. Burgundy with ivory ribbon, evergreen with gold ribbon, or cranberry with winter-white ribbon would all suit the same construction. Keep enough contrast between the gift and ribbon so the separate pieces are easy to see.

Is this pattern suitable for a baby blanket?

The complete dimensional design is better suited to decorative projects, such as a Christmas pillow or display blanket. For a baby-oriented blanket, I'd use a flatter gift, embroidered berries and securely attached decorations, and keep the finished blanket out of an infant's sleep space.

Can I wash the finished Christmas square?

Follow the care instructions for the yarn and filling you've chosen. A decorative square with raised bow loops and small berries may need gentle handling and reshaping after washing. Check the stitching on every attached piece before using it again.

If you're making a larger Christmas project, you can use this gift as one of several featured squares rather than repeating the same raised package on every block. A few plain squares between the decorated ones will make the presents stand out.