By Jan Bay
This free crochet tutu diaper cover pattern combines a shaped baby diaper cover with an attached layered crochet skirt in newborn/0–3 month, 3–6 month and 6–12 month sizes. The fitted cover handles the shaping underneath while the crochet skirt creates the tutu look without buttons, drawstrings or a separate elastic waistband.Explore More Free Crochet Baby Patterns
Free Crochet Diaper Cover Pattern
Worsted Weight Yarn for the Crochet Tutu Diaper Cover
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This pattern makes the same basic tutu diaper cover in three sizes: newborn/0–3 months, 3–6 months and 6–12 months. The diaper cover itself provides the fit. The tutu is added after the cover is assembled by using two full-circumference attachment lines built into the waistband. Both skirt tiers wrap around the front, sides and back instead of sitting only across the seat.
I would choose the size from the baby's measurements while she's wearing the diaper that will go under the cover. Age ranges are useful starting points, but the rise and seat room matter more than the number on the size label. A bulky cloth diaper can need more room than a disposable diaper on a baby of the same age.
Newborn/0–3 months: The expected relaxed waistband is about 15 1/2 inches around. The expected full rise is about 14 1/2 inches from the top of the back waistband, through the crotch, to the top of the front waistband. The narrow crotch section is about 3 1/8 inches wide.
3–6 months: The expected relaxed waistband is about 17 1/4 inches around. The expected full rise is about 16 inches. The narrow crotch section is about 3 3/8 inches wide.
6–12 months: The expected relaxed waistband is about 18 7/8 inches around. The expected full rise is about 17 5/8 inches. The narrow crotch section is about 3 3/4 inches wide.
These are calculated finished measurements based on the gauge for the pattern rather than measurements taken from a physically test-made sample. Crochet fabric also stretches, so check your gauge and compare the cover with the diapered baby's actual waist and rise before deciding that a size is too small or too large.
The cover is worked as one continuous piece from the back waist, down through the shaped crotch and back up to the front waist. No skirt attachment ridges are needed in the body. After the side seams are sewn, the waistband is worked in three rounds. The last two waistband rounds are worked in BLO, leaving two full rings of unused front loops around the entire waist.
Those two rings become the attachment points for the tutu tiers. Each tier travels all the way around the cover, so the finished skirt has volume across the front, sides and back while the fitted diaper cover underneath still handles the waist, rise and leg shaping.
Yarn: Smooth worsted weight #4 yarn. Have about 500 yards available for any one size so you have enough for the diaper cover and both full tutu tiers. This is a conservative planning allowance rather than measured yarn consumption.
Hook: US H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook, or the hook size you need to match gauge.
Other supplies: Yarn needle, scissors and measuring tape.
Gauge: 14 hdc stitches and 10 hdc rows = 4 inches.
Gauge matters more here than it does on a decoration that never has to fit anybody. The cover needs enough rise and seat room without becoming loose around the waist, and the tutu can't fix a cover that's already the wrong size.
If you're substituting yarn, stay close to a smooth medium-weight yarn that gives you the stated gauge. The Craft Yarn Council yarn weight system lists worsted yarn in the medium #4 category.
I would use the same yarn for the cover and both skirt tiers on the first one. You can certainly change colors later, but keeping the yarn weight and fiber consistent makes it easier to judge the fit and keeps the two tiers behaving alike.
US crochet abbreviations: ch = chain, hdc = half double crochet, hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together, sc = single crochet, BLO = back loop only, sl st = slip stitch, st or sts = stitch or stitches.
The diaper cover is worked flat as one continuous piece. You begin at the back waist, decrease gradually toward the crotch, work a short straight crotch section, increase back to the original width and finish at the front waist.
The diaper cover body is worked through both loops unless an instruction specifically says otherwise. You do not need to create unused loop lines across the back panel for this version.
The side seams are sewn after the flat body is complete. The waistband is then crocheted around the joined front and back waist edges. Waistband Rounds 2 and 3 are worked in BLO. This leaves the unused front loops from Waistband Rounds 1 and 2 as two continuous attachment rings around the entire waist for the tutu tiers.
The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless an instruction specifically says otherwise.
Work the first and last hdc of each straight row into the actual first and last stitch. Don't work into the turning chain.
Right side: Before sewing the side seams, choose the side of the flat body you prefer as the right side and keep it facing outward after assembly. The body no longer needs a specific right side for skirt attachment because both tutu tiers attach to the waistband.
On decrease rows, hdc2tog uses two stitches and produces one stitch. That reduces the row by one stitch at each end, or two stitches total.
On increase rows, work 2 hdc in the first stitch and 2 hdc in the last stitch. That adds two stitches to the row.
The tutu is part of the finished design, but it does not provide fit. Make the cover to the correct size first. Don't add extra stitches to the waist because you want a fuller skirt. Each skirt tier gets its fullness from working two hdc into every unused front loop around its full waistband attachment ring.
Beginning chain: Ch 28.
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. 27 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each st across. 27 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. 27 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Hdc in each st across. 27 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Hdc in each st across. 27 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, hdc across to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. 25 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 7: Hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. 23 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 8: Repeat the decrease row. 21 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Repeat the decrease row. 19 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 10: Repeat the decrease row. 17 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 11: Repeat the decrease row. 15 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 12: Repeat the decrease row. 13 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 13: Repeat the decrease row. 11 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 14–17: Hdc in each st across. 11 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after Rows 14–16. Ch 1 and turn after Row 17 for the first increase row.
Row 18: 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. 13 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 19–25: Repeat the increase row once on each row. Stitch counts at the ends of these rows are 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 and 27 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Rows 26–30: Hdc in each st across. 27 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after Rows 26–29. Do not turn after Row 30.
Fasten off, leaving enough yarn to weave in securely.
Body checkpoint: You should have 30 rows total, 27 stitches across both waist ends and 11 stitches across the narrow crotch. At the stated gauge, the body should measure about 12 inches from the beginning edge to the final row before the waistband is added.
Beginning chain: Ch 31.
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 7: Hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, hdc across to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. 28 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 8–15: Repeat the decrease row once on each row. Stitch counts at the ends of these rows are 26, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14 and 12 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Rows 16–19: Hdc in each st across. 12 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Row 20: 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. 14 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 21–28: Repeat the increase row once on each row. Stitch counts at the ends of these rows are 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 and 30 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Rows 29–34: Hdc in each st across. 30 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after Rows 29–33. Do not turn after Row 34.
Fasten off.
Body checkpoint: You should have 34 rows total, 30 stitches across both waist ends and 12 stitches across the narrow crotch. At the stated gauge, the body should measure about 13 5/8 inches from the beginning edge to the final row before the waistband is added.
Beginning chain: Ch 34.
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 7: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 8: Hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, hdc across to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. 31 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 9–17: Repeat the decrease row once on each row. Stitch counts at the ends of these rows are 29, 27, 25, 23, 21, 19, 17, 15 and 13 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Rows 18–21: Hdc in each st across. 13 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Row 22: 2 hdc in first st, hdc across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. 15 hdc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 23–31: Repeat the increase row once on each row. Stitch counts at the ends of these rows are 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 and 33 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after each row.
Rows 32–38: Hdc in each st across. 33 hdc. Ch 1 and turn after Rows 32–37. Do not turn after Row 38.
Fasten off.
Body checkpoint: You should have 38 rows total, 33 stitches across both waist ends and 13 stitches across the narrow crotch. At the stated gauge, the body should measure about 15 1/4 inches from the beginning edge to the final row before the waistband is added.
Before adding the tutu tiers, check the flat piece, sew the side seams and crochet the waistband. Keeping the skirt yarn out of the way until the basic cover is together makes the side seams much easier to see.
Lay the piece flat without stretching it. The beginning-chain edge is the back waist and the final row is the front waist.
At the stated gauge, the body should measure about 12 (13 5/8, 15 1/4) inches from the beginning edge to the final row for newborn/0–3 months (3–6 months, 6–12 months).
Each waist end should measure about 7 3/4 (8 5/8, 9 3/8) inches across. If your measurements are noticeably different, check the gauge before sewing the side seams.
The flat body should have no unused skirt-attachment loop lines. The two full-circumference attachment lines are created later when Waistband Rounds 2 and 3 are worked in BLO.
Place the flat piece right side up, with the beginning-chain edge at the back waist and the final row at the front waist.
Fold the front half over the back half so the right sides are facing each other and the beginning edge lines up with the final row.
Using matching yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch through 5 paired row-end spaces on each side for newborn/0–3 months, 6 paired row-end spaces for 3–6 months or 7 paired row-end spaces for 6–12 months.
Each sewing stitch should pass through one front row-end space and the matching back row-end space. Begin at the waist and stop when you have sewn the stated number of paired row ends. Do not continue into the shaped leg opening.
Secure the yarn and weave the end into the wrong side. Repeat on the opposite side using the same number of paired row ends.
Turn the cover right side out.
Join yarn at either side seam with the right side facing.
Waistband Round 1: Ch 1. Work 27 (30, 33) hdc across the front waist, placing one hdc in each stitch of the final row.
Continue across the back waist by working one hdc into the unused foundation-chain loop directly below each of the 27 (30, 33) stitches from Row 1. Do not add an extra stitch in the turning-chain position. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 54 (60, 66) hdc.
Waistband Round 2: Ch 1. Working in BLO, hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 54 (60, 66) hdc.
Waistband Round 3: Ch 1. Working in BLO, hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 54 (60, 66) hdc.
Fasten off and weave in the end.
The two BLO rounds give the waistband definition and also create the skirt attachment points. The unused front loops from Waistband Round 2 form the upper full-circumference attachment line. The unused front loops from Waistband Round 1 form the lower full-circumference attachment line.
The tutu is made from two separate flared tiers worked in joined rounds around the entire waist. Do not turn at the end of these rounds. The upper tier attaches to the unused front loops from Waistband Round 2. The lower tier attaches to the unused front loops from Waistband Round 1.
With the right side facing and the waistband at the top, join yarn in any unused front loop from Waistband Round 2 near a side seam.
Upper Tier Round 1: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in the same unused front loop and 2 hdc in every remaining unused front loop around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 108 (120, 132) hdc.
Upper Tier Rounds 2–3 for newborn/0–3 months; Rounds 2–4 for 3–6 months and 6–12 months: Ch 1. Hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 108 (120, 132) hdc. Do not turn.
Fasten off and weave in the end securely on the wrong side.
Lift the upper tier out of the way. With the right side facing, join yarn in any unused front loop from Waistband Round 1 near a side seam.
Lower Tier Round 1: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in the same unused front loop and 2 hdc in every remaining unused front loop around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 108 (120, 132) hdc.
Lower Tier Rounds 2–5 for newborn/0–3 months; Rounds 2–6 for 3–6 months and 6–12 months: Ch 1. Hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 108 (120, 132) hdc. Do not turn.
Fasten off and weave in the end securely on the wrong side.
Let the shorter upper tier fall naturally over the longer lower tier. Do not sew the two tiers together. Both tiers should make a complete circle around the front, sides and back of the diaper cover. The fitted cover remains visible underneath while the two flared layers create the tutu skirt.
The side seams use some of the row ends from both the front and back sections. The row ends that remain exposed form the leg opening.
Each newborn/0–3 month leg opening has 20 exposed row-end spaces, each 3–6 month opening has 22 and each 6–12 month opening has 24.
Leg Edging Round 1: With the right side facing, join yarn at the bottom of either side seam. Ch 1.
Repeat the following sequence 10 (11, 12) times around the opening: work 2 sc in the next exposed row-end space, then 1 sc in the following exposed row-end space.
Join with a sl st to the first sc. 30 (33, 36) sc.
Leg Edging Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. 30 (33, 36) sc.
Fasten off.
Repeat the same two rounds around the second leg opening. Use the same stitch count on both sides. Do not add an extra stitch at the side seam.
Weave every remaining yarn end securely into the wrong side.
Count both leg openings. They should match each other at 30 (33, 36) stitches after the final edging round.
Check that both side seams contain the same number of paired row ends and that the waistband lies flat without twisting.
Lift the upper tutu tier and check that each tier is attached only to its own waistband loop line. Both tiers should make a complete circle around the cover with no gap at either side seam. The first round of each tier should contain 108 (120, 132) hdc.
Look over the crotch and shaped leg edges for missed stitches or loose yarn ends.
Remove any temporary stitch markers, clips or pins before the cover is used.
The measurements below are expected measurements calculated from the stitch counts and stated gauge. They are not measurements taken from a physically test-made sample, and your yarn and tension can change them.
Newborn/0–3 months: expected relaxed waistband about 15 1/2 inches around; expected full rise about 14 1/2 inches; narrow crotch about 3 1/8 inches wide.
3–6 months: expected relaxed waistband about 17 1/4 inches around; expected full rise about 16 inches; narrow crotch about 3 3/8 inches wide.
6–12 months: expected relaxed waistband about 18 7/8 inches around; expected full rise about 17 5/8 inches; narrow crotch about 3 3/4 inches wide.
The full rise is measured from the top of the back waistband, down through the crotch and up to the top of the front waistband. It includes the body plus the expected depth added by the waistband at both ends.
Check the actual cover on the diaper the baby will wear under it. The waistband should sit comfortably without needing to be cinched down, and the leg openings shouldn't cut into the thighs.
If the waist seems right but the cover is pulling through the crotch, you need more rise rather than a tighter waistband. If you're between sizes, I would choose the size with enough rise and seat room first and then look at the waistband.
Both tutu tiers should fall freely around the front, sides and back without pulling the waistband out of shape. If the skirt is being stretched flat or the waistband is being pulled downward, check the cover fit before changing the skirt. Each tier already begins with twice as many stitches as its attachment line.
If you would rather make the same basic shape without the skirt, the free crochet diaper cover pattern keeps the construction plain so the waistband, rise and leg shaping are easy to see.
This crochet tutu diaper cover is a decorative clothing cover. It is not waterproof and it does not replace the waterproof layer required by a cloth-diaper system that uses one.
The basic pattern uses no buttons, ties, drawstrings or loose elastic cord. If you decide to add your own decoration, attach it securely and keep anything small or detachable away from a baby who can pull or mouth it.
A tutu cover is especially easy to overdecorate because the two full crochet skirt tiers already add plenty of texture around the waist. I would stop there. The skirt is the feature.
Follow the care instructions on the yarn label. If you change yarn from the one you used for your gauge swatch, wash a swatch first so you know how the fabric changes before laundering the finished cover.
After washing, reshape both skirt tiers while the cover is drying. Let the shorter upper tier sit separately over the longer lower tier rather than pressing the two layers flat together.
This is not sleepwear. If you're using the cover for a baby photo, keep the baby supervised and remove decorative photo clothing afterward.
If the waistband begins to feel tight, the rise pulls through the crotch or the leg openings leave deep marks, stop using that size and move up. Cinching a baby's tummy doesn't make for a comfortable wearing experience. That is never a good idea.
You can find the other basic, ruffled and themed versions together on the crochet diaper cover patterns page.
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