Free Crochet Christmas Star Granny Square Pattern with Gold Sparkles

By Jan Bay

This free Crochet Christmas Star Granny Square Pattern brings a little Christmas sparkle to a traditional granny square. A five-point gold star sits in the middle of an ivory background, with four tiny gold twinkles around it. Evergreen borders, ivory corner accents and a cranberry-red edging finish the design. The square is planned to measure approximately 8 inches, making it a lovely choice for Christmas blankets, pillows and other holiday projects.

See Supplies for This Project Here.

Materials and Supplies

You won't need an entire skein of every color, but I'd give yourself a little extra cranberry yarn. The decorative edging uses more than a plain granny border, and it's no fun running short on the final round.

Yarn

• DK weight #3 yarn in warm ivory: approximately 80–110 yards
• DK weight #3 yarn in deep evergreen: approximately 45–65 yards
• DK weight #3 yarn in cranberry red: approximately 55–85 yards
• DK weight #3 yarn in antique gold: approximately 25–40 yards

These are planning allowances for one square, including some extra for color changes, sewing and embroidery. They're not measured yarn consumption from a completed sample.

Other supplies

• 4 mm (G/6) crochet hook, or the size needed for your target measurements
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery
• Scissors
• Five removable stitch markers for the gold star
• Four temporary markers for positioning the little sparkles
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Blocking mat and rustproof pins, if needed

I'd choose smooth, similar-textured yarns in all four colors. The gold star has enough detail without using fuzzy or heavily textured yarn that hides the stitches.

Finished Size and Gauge

The target finished size is approximately 8 inches square. That's a planned size rather than a measurement from a physically tested example, so make one complete square and check it before starting a blanket.

Gauge checkpoints

• Starting hook: 4 mm
• After Ivory Round 4: planning target of approximately 3 to 3 1/4 inches across
• After Ivory Round 7: planning target of approximately 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inches across
• After Cranberry Round 10: planning target of approximately 7 1/2 to 7 3/4 inches across
• After finishing and blocking: target of approximately 8 inches across

Those intermediate measurements are estimates based on the desired finished size. They aren't verified sample measurements.

If your square is already much larger than the Round 4 target, try a smaller hook before making all ten granny rounds. If it's noticeably smaller, try a larger hook. Keep the stitch counts the same.

The gold star should sit comfortably within the ivory area, with enough room left for four small sparkles. Check its size against the completed ivory square before sewing it down.

Skill level: Intermediate. The traditional granny square is straightforward, but you'll also make five shaped star points, change yarn colors within a round, work a raised outline and finish with reverse single crochet.

Crochet Abbreviations and Pattern Notes

We'll use US crochet terms throughout. Most of the square is made with ordinary granny groups. The decorative details take a little more attention, so I've kept those instructions separate.

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• hdc2tog = half double crochet two stitches together
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• sp = space
• st = stitch
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rev sc = reverse single crochet, also called crab stitch
• yo = yarn over

Granny group: Work three ordinary double crochet stitches into the same chain space. These are three separate stitches, not a cluster worked together at the top.

Granny corner: Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into one ch-2 corner space. The ch-2 opening marks the corner for the next round.

Hdc2tog: Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, insert the hook into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all five loops on the hook. Two stitches become one.

Surface slip stitch: Keep the working yarn behind the fabric. Draw a loop to the front through the first anchoring point. Insert the hook at the next point, draw up another loop and pull it through the loop already on the hook. Repeat to make a raised line on the front of the crochet.

Reverse single crochet: With the right side still facing you, insert the hook into the next stitch to the right instead of the left. Yarn over and draw up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue backward around the edge without turning your work.

For additional stitch references, see the Craft Yarn Council's US crochet abbreviations.

Before you begin

• The beginning ch-3 counts as the first dc in the granny-square rounds.
• The beginning ch-1 in the gold star and finishing rounds does not count as a stitch.
• Joining slip stitches do not count as pattern stitches.
• Keep the right side facing you throughout the granny-square rounds.
• Do not turn between granny-square rounds.
• Slip stitches used to move into a corner don't create new granny groups.
• When changing colors within a stitch, complete the last yarn-over with the new color.
• Leave approximately 6-inch yarn tails at color changes so you have enough to weave them in.

We'll make the background square first, add the green and red borders, crochet the gold star separately, then finish the little twinkles and assembly. Keeping those steps separate makes it easier to check the counts before anything is attached.

Crochet Christmas Star Granny Square Pattern: Make the Ivory Base

We'll start with a traditional granny square. I prefer this construction for our star because the four corners are there from the beginning. There's no awkward shaping to turn a five-point star into a square later.

The ivory background has seven complete rounds. Work into the chain spaces between granny groups, not into the individual double crochet stitches, except when moving to the next starting corner.

Ivory Round 1

With ivory yarn, make a magic ring.

Ch 3 (counts as the first dc). Work 2 dc into the ring, then ch 2.

Repeat [3 dc into the ring, ch 2] three more times.

Pull the ring closed. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 1 count: 12 dc arranged in four groups of three, plus four ch-2 corner spaces.

Ivory Round 2

Sl st into each of the next two dc, then sl st into the first ch-2 corner space.

Ch 3, work 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that same corner space. Ch 1.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner space, ch 1] three times.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 2 count: 24 dc, four ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Ivory Round 3

Sl st into each of the next two dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that corner space. Ch 1.

Work 3 dc in the next ch-1 space along the first side. Ch 1.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, 3 dc in the next side ch-1 space, ch 1] three times.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 3 count: 36 dc, eight ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Ivory Round 4

Sl st across the next two dc and into the next corner space.

Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next two ch-1 spaces along the first side.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next two side ch-1 spaces] three times.

Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 4 count: 48 dc, 12 ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Size checkpoint: Measure your square across the middle. Approximately 3 to 3 1/4 inches is the planning target for the intended 8-inch square. If you're far outside that range, adjust your hook size now.

Ivory Round 5

Sl st across the next two dc and into the next corner space.

Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next three side ch-1 spaces.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next three side ch-1 spaces] three times.

Join to the beginning ch-3.

Round 5 count: 60 dc, 16 ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Ivory Round 6

Sl st across the next two dc and into the next corner space.

Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next four side ch-1 spaces.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next four side ch-1 spaces] three times.

Join to the beginning ch-3.

Round 6 count: 72 dc, 20 ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Ivory Round 7

Sl st across the next two dc and into the next corner space.

Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next five side ch-1 spaces.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next five side ch-1 spaces] three times.

Join to the beginning ch-3.

Round 7 count: 84 dc, 24 ch-1 spaces and four ch-2 corners.

Fasten off ivory and weave in the end.

Check Your Ivory Square

Lay the square on a flat surface. You should have four corners, seven complete granny rounds and the same number of groups along every side.

There should be five ordinary side groups between the corner groups on each side of Round 7. If one side has six, or another has four, find the extra or missing group before adding the border.

The expected width is approximately 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inches at the planned gauge. The square should lie reasonably flat without being stretched. Don't use blocking to hide a missed corner or an extra granny group.

Add the Evergreen Border and Ivory Corner Accents

Now for the little ivory fans in the corners. They're part of the crochet itself, not extra decorations that have to be sewn on afterward.

We'll use ivory at each corner and the granny groups immediately beside it, with evergreen across the middle of each side. The following green round frames those ivory groups and leaves the decorative corner accents visible.

Round 8: Evergreen Granny Groups with Ivory Corner Fans

Place the ivory square right side up.

Join ivory yarn in any ch-2 corner space from Round 7.

Ch 3 (counts as the first dc). Work 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that same corner space.

This is the first ivory corner fan.

Work the first side:

1. Ch 1 with ivory. Work 3 dc in the first of the six ch-1 spaces along this side. On the final yarn-over of the third dc, change to evergreen yarn. Ch 1 with evergreen. Cut the ivory yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
2. Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the next three side ch-1 spaces using evergreen. These are side spaces 2, 3 and 4.
3. In side space 5, work 3 dc with evergreen. On the final yarn-over of the third dc, change back to ivory yarn. Ch 1 with ivory. Cut the evergreen yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
4. Work 3 dc in the sixth and final side ch-1 space with ivory. Ch 1 with ivory.

You have now worked six side granny groups: one ivory, four evergreen and one ivory.

Work the next corner:

In the next ch-2 corner space, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) with ivory.

That completes another ivory corner fan. The last ivory side group before the corner and the first ivory side group after it make the accent look fuller.

Continue around:

Repeat the same six-space side sequence on Sides 2 and 3, working an ivory (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) corner after each side.

On Side 4, work the same six-space sequence. After the sixth and final side group and its ch-1, do not work the starting corner a second time. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ivory ch-3.

Fasten off and weave in the color-change tails.

Round 8 count:

• Four ivory corner groups, each containing 6 dc
• Eight additional ivory side groups, two along each side
• Sixteen evergreen side groups, four along each side
• 48 ivory dc and 48 evergreen dc
• 96 dc total
• 28 ch-1 spaces, seven along each side
• Four ch-2 corner spaces

Corner checkpoint: Every corner should have two ivory 3-dc groups with a ch-2 opening between them. Immediately beside each corner, you should also see one ivory side group on each side. The middle four groups along each side should be evergreen.

Count the colors before going on. If a corner accent extends farther along one side than another, you've probably changed colors in the wrong granny group.

Round 9: Complete the Evergreen Frame

Join evergreen yarn in any ch-2 corner space from Round 8.

Ch 3, work 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in that same corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the seven ch-1 spaces along the first side.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the seven ch-1 spaces along the following side] three times.

Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 9 count:

• 108 evergreen dc
• 32 ch-1 spaces, eight along each side
• Four ch-2 corner spaces

Fasten off evergreen and weave in the end.

Crochet Checkpoint: Lay the square flat and look at the four ivory corner accents. Each should form a matching little V-shaped fan arrangement inside the green frame. The evergreen stitches should lie flat around the ivory groups, without bunching up at the corners.

These are granny-stitch corner accents rather than separate flower-shaped appliqués, so the exact height and shape of the ivory fan will depend on the yarn and tension.

Crochet the Decorative Cranberry Border

The cranberry border brings everything together. I wouldn't add another fussy motif here. The gold star, little sparkles and ivory corners already give the square plenty to look at.

Instead, we'll use one traditional cranberry granny round and finish it with a small raised edge. Reverse single crochet makes a braided-looking trim without changing the square's basic shape.

Round 10: Cranberry Granny Border

Join cranberry yarn in any evergreen ch-2 corner space from Round 9.

Ch 3, work 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc in the same corner space. Ch 1.

Work (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the eight ch-1 spaces along the first side.

Repeat [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, then (3 dc, ch 1) in each of the eight ch-1 spaces along the following side] three times.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Do not fasten off.

Round 10 count:

• 120 dc
• 36 ch-1 spaces, nine along each side
• Four ch-2 corner spaces

Round 11: Firm Single Crochet Edging

Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch).

Work the first sc in the same beginning dc where Round 10 was joined.

Continue around the border, working 1 sc into every remaining dc and 1 sc into every ch-1 space.

In each of the four ch-2 corner spaces, work 3 sc.

Join with a sl st to the first sc. Do not work an additional sc into the starting stitch.

Round 11 count:

• 120 sc worked into dc stitches
• 36 sc worked into ch-1 spaces
• 12 sc worked into the four corners
• 168 sc total

Do not fasten off.

Round 12: Textured Cranberry Edge

Keep the right side facing you. Do not turn the work.

Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch).

Instead of continuing in the normal direction, work backward around the border.

Insert the hook into the stitch immediately to the right of the joining position. This is the final sc made in Round 11.

Work 1 reverse sc in that stitch.

Continue working 1 reverse sc into each preceding sc of Round 11 as you move backward around the square.

Work into all 168 sc stitches from Round 11, including the first sc of that round as your final reverse-sc placement.

Join with a sl st to the first reverse sc. Fasten off and leave a 6-inch tail.

Round 12 count: 168 reverse single crochet stitches.

Edging checkpoint: The outside should have a neat, slightly rounded cord-like texture. The border should not tighten enough to pull the four corners inward.

If the reverse-single-crochet edge gathers, remove that round and try working it with looser tension or a hook one size larger. Keep the same 168 attachment stitches.

That's the square finished. Now we'll make the gold star and the four little sparkles that give it its Christmas look.

Crochet the Five-Point Gold Star

Here's the part that gives our square its personality. We'll make a small round center, then crochet five matching points directly from its outer stitches.

The star is made as one crocheted piece. We'll attach it to the ivory square after the shape and raised gold outline are complete.

Part A: Gold Star Center

Use antique-gold DK yarn and your 4 mm hook.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 10 hdc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first hdc.

Count: 10 hdc.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in each of the 10 stitches around. Join to the first hdc.

Count: 20 hdc.

Round 3: Ch 1. Repeat [1 hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the following stitch] exactly 10 times. Join to the first hdc.

Count: 30 hdc.

Do not fasten off yet.

Part B: Divide the Center into Five Sections

Starting with the first hdc of Round 3, divide the 30 stitches into five groups of six.

• Point 1: stitches 1–6
• Point 2: stitches 7–12
• Point 3: stitches 13–18
• Point 4: stitches 19–24
• Point 5: stitches 25–30

Place a removable stitch marker in the first stitch of each six-stitch group.

Every group must have exactly six stitches. Don't overlap the sections or use a stitch from the neighboring point.

Part C: Make Star Point 1

Keep the right side of the center facing you. Your hook should be at the first stitch of the first marked group after joining Round 3.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into the same first stitch where Round 3 was joined, then 1 hdc in each of the next five stitches of the marked group. Turn.

Count: 6 hdc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1. Work 1 hdc in each of the six stitches. Turn.

Count: 6 hdc.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1. Hdc2tog over the first two stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next two stitches. Hdc2tog over the final two stitches. Turn.

Count: 4 stitches.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 1. Hdc2tog over the first two stitches. Hdc2tog over the remaining two stitches. Turn.

Count: 2 stitches.

Row 5 (RS): Ch 1. Hdc2tog over the final two stitches.

Count: 1 stitch at the tip.

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail to weave into the wrong side.

Don't pull the last stitch so tightly that the tip curls.

Part D: Make Star Points 2–5

Turn the gold center so the right side faces you again.

Join antique-gold yarn with a sl st in the first marked stitch of the next unused six-stitch group.

Ch 1. Work 1 hdc in that same marked stitch and 1 hdc in each of the following five stitches. Turn.

Row 1 count: 6 hdc.

Continue with Rows 2, 3, 4 and 5 exactly as written for Point 1, including each turn.

Fasten off after Row 5.

Repeat the same method for Points 3, 4 and 5, using their assigned six-stitch groups.

Every completed point must have these row counts:

• Row 1: 6 hdc
• Row 2: 6 hdc
• Row 3: 4 stitches
• Row 4: 2 stitches
• Row 5: 1 stitch

Each point contains 19 completed stitches across its five rows, giving 95 completed stitches across all five points. The circular gold center contains 60 hdc worked across Rounds 1, 2 and 3, but only the 30 stitches of Round 3 form its outer edge. Those 30 stitches are divided into five groups of six for the star points.

Check the Shape Before Adding the Raised Outline

Lay the gold star flat. Turn it until one point faces straight up.

The other four points should spread evenly around the center, with two reaching toward the sides and two pointing diagonally downward.

Count every row of every point. If a point is wider, shorter or twisted, correct it before adding the outline.

Weave in the gold yarn tails on the wrong side. Keep the stitches loose enough that the center stays flat.

Part E: Crochet the Raised Gold Outline

The finished design has a raised gold edge around the star. We can add that with surface slip stitches. There's no separate braided cord to make.

Lay the star right side up, with one point facing straight up.

Using gold yarn from the skein, bring a loop from the wrong side to the front at a valley between two points. Leave a 6-inch starting tail on the back.

Work surface slip stitches just inside the outer edge of the first point.

1. Make one surface slip stitch near each of the five row-end positions as you travel from the valley up the first side of the point.
2. Make one surface slip stitch through a firm gold stitch at the tip.
3. Work one surface slip stitch near each of the five row-end positions down the opposite side.
4. Make one surface slip stitch through a firm gold stitch in the next valley.
5. Continue up the next point without cutting the working yarn.

Repeat around all five points.

Planned outline count:

• Five stitches up each point
• One stitch at each tip
• Five stitches down each point
• One stitch at each following valley
• 12 surface slip stitches per point
• 60 surface slip stitches around all five points

At the last valley, finish the final surface slip stitch without making another one over the beginning stitch. Cut the yarn, draw the end to the wrong side and secure it.

Outline checkpoint: The gold outline should follow the five points without pulling their edges inward. If it makes a point curl, remove the tight surface stitches and work them again more loosely.

Lay the finished star over the ivory granny square without sewing it on yet. Make sure it fits completely within the ivory center and leaves enough room for all four little gold sparkles without covering them.

Part F: Add the Short Gold Ridges

The example star also has a little raised texture running outward from its center. We can make five short gold ridges with surface slip stitches before sewing the star onto the square.

With the star right side up, identify the middle of each point. Using antique-gold yarn, bring a loop to the front near the outer edge of the circular center, where that point begins.

Work four surface slip stitches along the middle of the point, moving outward through firm gold stitches toward its tip. Stop before the final tip stitch so the ridge doesn't crowd the raised outline.

Fasten off and weave the two ends into the wrong side of the star.

Repeat for the other four points.

Ridge count: Five raised lines, with four surface slip stitches in each, for 20 additional decorative surface stitches.

Crochet Checkpoint: The star should now have a raised outer outline and five short lines extending outward from its center. These details should sit on top of the gold crochet without puckering it. Keep them loose, especially near the center.

The exact height of the raised outline and the final proportions of the star will depend on your stitch tension. Compare the shape with the example before attaching it.

Add the Four Little Gold Sparkles

I like the four little twinkles because they give the star some company without filling the entire ivory background. You don't need beads, sequins or any other small decorations. Just use the same antique-gold yarn.

We'll embroider four small four-point sparkles directly onto the ivory granny square.

Mark the Sparkle Positions

Place the finished granny square right side up. Lay the gold star in the center temporarily, with one point facing upward.

Look at the four diagonal areas of ivory crochet:

• Above and to the left of the star
• Above and to the right of the star
• Below and to the left of the star
• Below and to the right of the star

The sparkle centers should sit just inside the four inner corners of the ivory field, approximately around the diagonal positions of Ivory Round 6. Each should be equally spaced from the gold star and the green border.

Place a temporary stitch marker at each position. Choose firm ivory stitch strands rather than an open chain-space hole.

Check all four positions before sewing. The twinkles should form a balanced arrangement around the main star, with plenty of ivory crochet showing between them.

Remove the gold star temporarily so you can work on the embroidery without catching it in the stitches.

Embroider Sparkle 1

Thread a tapestry needle with approximately 12–15 inches of antique-gold yarn.

From the wrong side, bring the needle to the front at the marked center of the first sparkle. Leave a 4-inch tail on the back.

Make four small straight stitches, each approximately 1/4 inch long, radiating from the center:

1. Bring the needle out at the center and take it down through the ivory crochet above the center to form the upper arm.
2. Bring the needle out at the center again and take it down to the right to form the right arm.
3. Bring the needle out at the center and take it down below the center to form the lower arm.
4. Bring the needle out at the center and take it down to the left to form the left arm.

Each stitch should catch actual yarn strands in the ivory crochet, not span a large empty opening.

Keep the four arms close to the same length. Don't pull the yarn so tightly that the ivory fabric gathers at the center.

On the wrong side, secure the embroidery yarn by weaving the starting and finishing tails through several nearby ivory stitches, changing direction once before trimming. Avoid letting the gold ends show through the eyelet spaces.

Repeat for Sparkles 2, 3 and 4

Make the other three sparkles the same way.

Embroidery count:

• Four straight stitches per sparkle
• Four separate sparkles
• 16 small gold embroidery stitches total

Placement checkpoint: Lay the gold star in the center again without attaching it. Make sure every sparkle remains visible and none of the gold arms touch the main star or the green border.

If one sparkle is too close to the star, move that embroidery before attaching the appliqué. It's a much easier fix now.

Attach the Star and Finish Your Christmas Granny Square

Now we'll put everything together. Before sewing, lay the star on the ivory background one more time and check that the arrangement agrees with the example. A few minutes spent positioning it will make the finished square look much neater.

Position the Gold Star

Place the completed granny square right side up on a flat surface.

Set the gold star in the center with one point facing straight upward. The other four points should spread evenly around the circular center.

Check that:

• The gold star is centered within the ivory granny rounds.
• The top point is straight.
• The two side points are balanced.
• The lower two points are spaced evenly.
• All four gold sparkles remain visible.
• The star does not touch the green border.

Use removable markers to hold the five points in place. If the star seems too large for the ivory area, don't stretch the square to make it fit. Check the star's gauge and dimensions first.

Sew the Star to the Ivory Square

Thread a tapestry needle with approximately 36 inches of matching gold yarn. You can add another length if needed.

Begin at the wrong side beneath the upper star point. Bring the needle through a firm ivory stitch and catch a small loop along the back edge of the gold point.

Work small sewing stitches around the outer edge of the star, catching the gold edge loops and nearby ivory stitch strands.

Keep the sewing stitches approximately 1/4 inch apart, or closer where the points need extra support.

Follow the complete five-point outline:

1. Secure the upper point, sewing along one side, around its tip and down the opposite side.
2. Continue through the valley to the next point.
3. Sew around that point in the same way.
4. Continue around the remaining points and valleys until the entire star edge is attached.
5. Finish the perimeter sewing where you began, securing the yarn on the wrong side.

Don't pull the sewing yarn tight enough to gather the ivory background. The star should lie flat, not sink into the granny stitches.

Next, make four small concealed anchoring stitches through the central gold circle and sturdy ivory stitches beneath it. Space these anchors around the circular center to keep it from lifting away from the square.

Keep the anchoring stitches beneath the raised gold details where possible.

Weave each sewing tail through nearby stitches on the wrong side, changing direction before trimming.

Check the Finished Attachment

Lay the square flat again and gently lift each star point with a fingertip.

Every point should be attached along both sides and around its tip. The valleys and center should also be secure.

Look at the back. There shouldn't be long loose gold strands stretching across the open ivory stitches.

Remove all temporary markers.

Block the Completed Square

Follow the care directions for your yarn. If suitable for the fiber, lightly dampen the square and arrange it on a blocking mat.

Use a ruler to straighten the four sides and arrange the corners evenly. The target finished measurement is approximately 8 inches in both directions.

Don't pull the corners so hard that the granny groups stretch out of shape. And don't press a hot iron directly onto the raised gold star or the decorative cranberry edge.

Let the square dry completely before removing any blocking pins.

Final Crochet Checkpoint

Before making another Christmas star square, check the finished project against this list:

• Seven complete ivory granny rounds
• Four ivory corner accents within the first green border round
• A second evergreen round framing those accents
• One cranberry granny round
• 168 sc in the first finishing round
• 168 reverse sc in the textured finishing round
• One centered gold star with five matching points
• Raised gold outline and five short center ridges
• Four small embroidered gold sparkles
• All yarn ends woven in and secured
• All temporary markers and blocking pins removed
• Four even sides and approximately 8-inch finished dimensions

If the square is a little larger or smaller, record its actual measurements. All the squares for one project should match each other, even if the final size differs slightly from the original target.

For a baby blanket, make sure the star and embroidery are firmly attached and cannot be pulled loose. Keep handmade blankets and decorative pillows out of an infant's sleep space.

Christmas Granny Square Project Ideas

Once you've finished one Christmas star square, you can use it for several projects. I'd make the first square, measure it and then decide how many more you want. That's easier than making a stack of squares and discovering later that they don't quite match.

Make a Christmas Granny Square Blanket

A blanket would be lovely with these gold stars scattered among plainer granny squares. I wouldn't put the raised star on every block. Alternating the decorated squares with plain ivory, cranberry or green ones gives the gold stars room to stand out.

You can find a three-size layout in my Christmas granny square blanket pattern. That blanket uses a different yarn specification and square construction, so compare the finished sizes and edge stitches before joining the designs.

Make a Christmas Pillow

Four star squares arranged two across and two down could make a pretty holiday pillow front. At the planned 8-inch size, the arrangement would measure approximately 16 inches square before allowing for the joining method or extra edging.

Or use one gold star square in the center and surround it with plain granny squares. I'd choose that version if you want the star to be the main feature.

Make a Small Christmas Wall Hanging

One square can become a little Christmas wall hanging with a firm backing and a securely attached hanging loop.

There's no need to add dangling decorations. The gold sparkles, ivory corners and textured cranberry border already give it plenty of detail.

Make a Christmas Table Runner

Join three or four matching squares in a straight row for a narrow decorative table runner. Add a coordinating border if you want a little more width.

I'd keep the raised gold stars away from the area where hot serving dishes might sit. They're prettier where the textured stitching can be seen.

If you want to mix this star with other holiday motifs, browse my free Christmas granny square patterns collection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the gold star crocheted into the granny square?

No. The five-point gold star is crocheted separately and then sewn firmly onto the ivory granny-square center. That makes the background square easier to construct while allowing the star to have raised details.

Are the four ivory corner accents sewn on?

No. They're made with ivory yarn during Round 8, using color changes within the granny-square round. The next evergreen round frames them.

Can I leave off the gold sparkles?

Yes. The square will still be complete without them, although it won't have the same finished appearance as the example. The four small embroidered twinkles are part of this particular design.

What if I can't work reverse single crochet?

You can stop after Round 11, which already gives the square a complete single-crochet edge. You'll have 168 edging stitches, but you won't have the raised cranberry finish shown in the example.

Can I use worsted-weight yarn?

Yes, but the finished square will probably be larger and thicker. Choose a hook appropriate for your yarn, make one complete square and measure it before planning a larger project.

How can I keep several Christmas granny squares the same size?

Use the same yarn weight, hook and tension for each square. Finish and block the first one before starting the rest. If you're combining different patterns, check both the finished measurements and the edge-stitch arrangements before joining.

Can I wash the completed square?

Follow the care instructions for your chosen yarn. Before washing, check that the gold star, embroidered sparkles and woven-in ends are firmly secured. Use a washing method appropriate for the fiber to help preserve the raised details.

Once you've made and checked the first square, keep it nearby as your size and color reference for the others. You don't need to keep adjusting the instructions if the finished square lies flat and the measurements suit your project.